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Post by pushnfords on Jul 24, 2010 22:39:17 GMT -5
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 23, 2010 16:22:42 GMT -5
Looks like you have the twin to the car I'm working on. Check my signature for pics.
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 16, 2010 16:25:07 GMT -5
Thanks Jeff!
I've been doing some calculations based off of Jeff's data, the tire sizes I'm looking at, and using the different 4th gear ratios. Looks like "our" Bradley would be running around 3,000rpm @ 60mph and 3,500rpm @ 70mph with the stock transaxle. A Freeway Flier transaxle would change that to 3,000rpm @ 65.1mph or 3,500rpm @ 75.9mph.
That's about $106.78 per mph over 70.....hmmmm.....
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 14, 2010 21:25:21 GMT -5
Thanks! Lot cheaper than I expected.
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 14, 2010 21:20:41 GMT -5
On any old car, especially a fiberglass one, I'd check all of the grounds. Just think of the wiring as a river: the electricity/water has to go into and out of every switch or bulb.
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 13, 2010 21:26:21 GMT -5
Yes, the phrase "freeway flyer" is used in the VW tranny industry to indicate a higher gearing. Different tranny builder's have their own various ways of getting the higher gear ratio, most (but not all) just affect 4th gear. See Jeff Troys post above. Regards, I like Jeff's combo...very close to the one I'm working on. And if I can get those speeds at those rpm's the owner should be happy. Is the "Freeway Flyer" trans one that was used in certain models and/or years or is it an aftermarket variation? From what I could tell looking around last night the R&P ratios were 4.12 or 3.88 and I was told I should have the 4.12 if the trans is stock to the pan. Going to a 3.88 isn't much of a change. Jeff, what size rear tire are you running?
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 12, 2010 20:15:42 GMT -5
Thanks everyone! The owner is planning on using this as his primary driver. The engine building is saying 3000-3500 cruising rpm is no problem...but depending on rear tire choice (have 14" wheels now) that may not get us to or above 70mph. I'm wanting to just put it together and see how close we get but waiting to hear back on that.
In the meantime...are there aftermarket gears available to increase the top end?
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 12, 2010 19:41:40 GMT -5
I know what you mean Jeff. The owner is pretty adamant that he doesn't need A/C but I am keeping all of the parts in case he changes his mind. In high school I bought a '71 Torino GT and used to get frustrated when all of the "old geezers" in the local car club wouldn't drive their old cars to a show because it was too hot. I must be getting old (29) though because this year I bought A/C equipment and fixed it in all of my vehicles. Anymore if I make the 45 minute drive to and from work in the 90-100 degree heat I just feel baked and have no energy.
What type of A/C system are you running? I've been wondering if it would be worth messing with the kind that was in the car or just go with a Vintage Air type setup if the owner changes his mind.
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 11, 2010 22:27:02 GMT -5
Pick up a HOT VW's magazine and there will likely be lots of pictures of engines in various stages of customizations. Could also order back issues. There are also several ACVW manuals out there. Best Regards, I'll see if I can find some to order online...I'm in rural KS so I either drive long distances or go to the internet! ;D extra tube that goes down through a hole in the cooling tin WAS ON THE OLDER CARS FOR CRANK CASE VENT. THIS IS BEFORE PVC VALVES & OTHER PARTS The smoke & oil would come out of it. I thought it looked a lot like a road draft tube but I didn't expect one on a '72...unless the engine is older. The oil vent tube is still found on some after market filler caps. I have one but it is billet and looks much nicer. Mid America sells them Eric A www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=2.7090This one I assume? Does look a lot better...I was going to send the other one out to powder coat but maybe not! Where do you have the vent tube routed to? I just saw these: www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=2.3284If I can find some in stock that might be a good way to go. The doghouse port was cut off and moved for A/C , I've seen this on cars in our shop before done by gilmore enterprises in st pete. the compressor sits right where the old port comes out. Yep, this car had A/C. For now I don't think I'll put it on...too many other things I'm fighting. Was there a different tin for A/C? I have one of those shrouds that is in great shape, if you need it. just pay the shipping. I'll probably take you up on that. Going to check with the car's owner first and see if he is still wanting to completely remove the A/C or if he wants to leave it so we could possibly put it back on easily in the future. Any chance you have a good cylinder top tin (the ones with the cylinder numbers stamped in)? I'll have to look again to see which side but I have one that is cracked and it is in a hard place to weld.
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 11, 2010 14:38:47 GMT -5
Most of the oil filler caps I've seen are aftermarket and just have the cap part. This engine has an extra tube that goes down through a hole in the cooling tin. What is the purpose of this tube? Also on the main cooling tin there was a piece mounted to the left side of the engine that was attached with one bolt and rivets. I assumed it was factory but had to take it off to clean out some mouse nest. Under it the tin is cut very jagged...so maybe this was a modification by a previous owner? What would this outlet be for? Maybe it is an inlet? None of the tubes were hooked up when I got the car so I'm not sure where they go yet.
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 8, 2010 17:04:29 GMT -5
Hey, could you not chrome the factory tins and have the best of both worlds? I prefer painted but just a thought. We are going to powder coat the original tin in a color they call "almost chrome" with black accents. One word of caution for you is that a lot of people buy high end motors because the builder has a good rep. The problem lies with the buyer in that they expect it to run like a new car. Get in and drive for 100,000 miles with only oil changes. You will have to maintain this engine from the start regardless if you spend $1000 or $10,000. If this guy is 70 yrs old and retired and just goes to the country club once a week he wont need anything more than a 1600 that is warmed over. Good luck with it. This week I placed the order with Chico Performance for a long block. It'll be a 1679 thickwall with a mild cam, dual carbs, and a remote oil filter. If it performs like the average daily driver car we'll be happy. Of course maint will have to be kept up and any car like this is going to need work from time to time.
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 3, 2010 15:14:09 GMT -5
I'll be updating this list as I get further into the car. - Stainless (I believe) carriage bolts & nuts for door hinges.
- Door gas struts or part number so I can buy new.
- Toggle switches...the ones under the gauge panel in the dash.
- L/S torsion bar plate - '72 IRS pan. Purchased
- I need lots of interior stuff...almost everything. LMK what you have.
- LH door knob and linkage. I have the inner handle and latch...nothing else.
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 3, 2010 15:06:07 GMT -5
I need a complete set of toggle switches - the ones that go under the dash gauges. Would also be interested in any good interior parts.
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 30, 2010 23:12:41 GMT -5
but IF you let the come-along slip, dropping the body about 14 inches before catching the ratchet, it will crack the rafter. Lol, that sounds like the voice of experience! ;D Getting ready to pull the body off the GTII myself...
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 28, 2010 17:37:36 GMT -5
When I was talking to VW Paradise about a mild performance engine the guy told me it was basically pointless unless I upgraded the gears in the trans axle. He said if I kept the engine under 3K rpm for longevity that I'd be running around 55mph depending on tire size. Is that right? I'd hoped that the car would be capable of cruising 70-80 mph on interstate.
How fast will your car go at what RPM and with what tires?
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 28, 2010 17:36:00 GMT -5
Chico motors have very high ratings. I got a chance to make a lot of engine related calls today. I was liking VW Paradise for their prices and options or Mid America. Then I talked to Chico...he was very helpful and took the time to answer questions and make suggestions which I appreciated. We've cut the budget back a bit so he suggested a 1600-1679 for $1850 that he promises to keep up with traffic which is our main goal. A dual carb setup jetted and ready to bolt on is another $429. I'm waiting for the final go ahead from the owner but I think that's the one.
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 28, 2010 13:53:31 GMT -5
If any of you have personal build threads or pictures saved of interiors could you share them with me please? I have a gutted interior and am just guessing what is supposed to be there.
Also, did a GT II use a factory Beetle shifter? The one for this car is nowhere to be found.
Thanks,
Derek
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 20, 2010 21:11:25 GMT -5
I started disassembling the rear suspension tonight to replace the torsion bar bushings. I have the passenger side apart...but the torsion bar/plate hits part of the wheel well and I can't remove them to get the inner bushing out. It looks like the only way I'd be able to remove it is to take the body loose from the frame! Has anyone ran into this before? I'm considering slicing the inner bushing much like a sway bar bushing on an American car is. If I put the slice on the bottom the top and sides should take most of the load and I think it would stay in place. Any thoughts?
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 20, 2010 21:04:46 GMT -5
Looks good!
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 20, 2010 20:41:04 GMT -5
Looks like a great tribute to your dad! I wish I had something like that from mine.
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 7, 2010 23:01:07 GMT -5
Heres my thoughts on this thread: get the car done how you want it. body work, wiring, and paint, The body is being left in the white gelcoat - no paint. I'm fixing the wiring, putting the interior back in, and going through everything mechanical...I don't know of any plans past that point except to drive it. The owner and I met up today to snag an old Plymouth out of the local junkyard so went over plans a bit..mild performance 1776. I'm going to find a builder and we'll see what input/suggestions they have.
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 6, 2010 22:58:15 GMT -5
The flaps & thermostat are designed to keep as close to balanced cooling as possible - not to retain heat, but to control the air flow through the shroud. bnc They would be worth buying and installing though right?
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 6, 2010 20:06:43 GMT -5
I don't believe that you are building this for a 'client'. It is for yourself. Why are you pretending? Lol, I don't have enough money in my bank account to buy the carbs much less the motor. Not sure why anyone would pretend to build a car for someone else. Honestly it would be a lot easier to build this car for myself. I know what I want...I don't always know what he wants. Here's the full story: The year after high school I went to KSU for "General Engineering" and joined the local car club. There I met Ken (the Bradley's owner) and found out he knew my mom and aunt in college. He was having an IH pickup customized that he inherited and introduced me to the shop owner who I then started working for. I wasn't very happy with KSU and transferred to McPherson College and graduated from their auto restoration program. During college I'd worked at a hot rod/street rod shop and after graduation I spent a little over 2.5 years working at a shop restoring Auburns and Cords. Meanwhile Ken shuffled his IH from one shop to another and had a bad experience with them all. I eventually moved back to the area where Ken lives and started working a job doing mechanic work on military equipment. I got back in touch with the car club and Ken and did a few small jobs for Ken (setting points on a Nash & getting it running for example) and another guy in the club who I became friends with. I moved again and lost touch with most of the car club guys. One day Ken was getting a haircut and realized the barber was my uncle and my uncle mentioned some work I'd done on his truck. Shortly after that Ken emailed me and asked if I was doing side work. I told him I was still doing it here and there and he asked me to build the Bradley for him.
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 6, 2010 19:55:07 GMT -5
There are more tin parts intended to warm the engine than to cool it. That just demonstrates how difficult an engineering task air cooling can be. Look to the flaps and thermostat. Here: www.awesomepowdercoat.com/thermostat_flaps.htmlBTW, the "Hoover Bit" is named after Jim Hoover, a long-time expert on ACVWs. Jim is very ill right now. Keep him in your thoughts if you can. More and more of the innovators and pioneers in the automotive hobby are in failing health or have already passed. Fortunately some have shared their knowlege...I've worked with others who refuse to write anything down or share what they know and it is a shame what knowledge will be lost. I hope the best for Jim. Well crap...I don't have thermostats, flaps, etc. I'm assuming these help retain heat until the engine warms up? Guess I'll have to start looking for those as well. This car is giving me a headache! ;D
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 6, 2010 18:56:29 GMT -5
So...what does your client want and what does he plan on doing with his project? Does he plan on driving it to the grocery store, maybe a couple of cruises, or bringing his kid to school? If so...go Ferrari (chrome). It will do the job. It will do it for as long as his interest in the car lass. It wil ook cool when he shows it off and people will be impressed. Or does he plan on using it as his daily driver? Potentially putting hundreds of miles a week on it. Does he plan on driving it everywhere, and is he 100% sure his interest won't wane after 10k miles of driving a car like this (most people do lose interest)? If driving it like crazy (maybe not Jeff Troy crazy....but you know what I mean) then go Honda (German tins). He will be happy. So...figure out what your client wants and build it for him. Does he want the "wow its a Ferrari, and I don't care if it last 100k miles" or does he want "take a look at my uber reliable Honda....I drive it everywhere". Uber reliable = yes. He has made that clear from day one. He also wants the engine to look great. After I told him about some of the tin not fitting quite right and/or missing things inside he is more than willing to just have the old tin powdercoated. Amount of use? My understanding is he plans on using this as a daily driver weather permitting. He is retired so that means running errands, local car shows, etc. Will he get tired of it? Honestly I don't think so. He has had several Triumphs or MGs and I really don't think they'd be that much different to drive around in. I could be wrong...neither of us has drive a Beetle or Bradley before. We are currently looking at long blocks. There are lots of turn key engines out there but I've already purchased a distributor, wires, coil, and a few other things. Because of time constraints I've been trying to order ahead so everything is ready to go and I'm not waiting on parts. Plus with a long block we don't have to worry about the tin one way or another. Now the big question is where does the long block come from? He has heard about a local mechanic that is supposed to know VW's very well. I'm not very trusting of shops and I've never heard of this guy but will check into it. Otherwise I'm wanting to go with one of the vendors that have been reviewed over on thesamba.com. So far NSRACING has been very helpful and even offered to meet me along I70 to save on shipping of the engine and core. As for power level...not sure yet. If he had asked me to build a '66 Fairlane as a quick daily driver I'd know where to start. My experience is in domestics including my '70 Torino. PS - As to the advice of finding the local VW club...there isn't one. In this part of KS we have small towns and cities that are all around 40-50 miles from each other. Only one nearby city (Manhattan) has a car club...I used to be a member. Generally they just meet up to gossip and tell jokes and once in a while go on a trip. No local clubs are brand specific and I honestly don't remember ever seeing a local VW that was involved in a club.
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 5, 2010 22:22:17 GMT -5
Where are you located?
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 5, 2010 17:59:46 GMT -5
You can powder-coat a turd, but it is still a turd. It is highly unlikely that this client of yours will drive the car long enough to find a difference. He will quit for many reasons before rust is a problem. . I'm just assuming the chrome tins they sell are about like the chrome Edelbrock valve covers and air cleaners they sell for V8s. Let them sit for a year and they are covered with rust. At least a part like that can be wiped off but some of the tin is difficult to reach. The body won't be the nicest around but the drivetrain is going to be a good one...and plans are to make the interior respectable as well. It may not ever see that many miles but I'd like it to hold up year after year. The owner is retired and goes to most of the local car shows. I've just spent 4+ hours reading through posts over on thesamba.com. What confuses me is that so many people recommend the factory tin yet almost all of the builders of turnkey engines advertise 100% new tin. A couple of them said they modified the new tins with the missing pieces and filled in the gaps but nowhere near all of them.
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 5, 2010 14:12:38 GMT -5
As you can see in this link, I'm working on an ugly engine: i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/PushnFords/1978%20Bradley%20GTII/Bradley013.jpgThe owner wants everything replaced with chrome but I was worried about it rusting quickly and mj and jefftroy (thanks!) warned about bad fitment. I'm talking to the owner now about powdercoating everything. Personally I'd powdercoat my own projects if I had the money for it...I like it a lot. I've found www.awesomepowdercoat.com/ on thesamba.com and he says their kits are made from the Scat 36hp designs. Are those decent fitting or am I better off shipping in my old tin and having them coated? Or...are there new kits out there that fit and function correctly?
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 5, 2010 10:20:07 GMT -5
The links below go to Jake Raby's company. If you go for the goodies, the price will run up to $10,000 for one T4 engine, but you can get a good economy engine for much less. Call him. Thanks for the links...I'll check it out. I think it may be a little more then he wants to spend but I'll ask. I sent the owner a bunch of links to engines from forum suggestions and he asked about a turnkey 1776 from Mid America for $3K. I don't want to assemble the engine in my garage. I'm not a shop owner...I just have an old ratty two car garage and 1/2 is absolutely packed with tools and some Power Wheels for my daughter. I've built a few engines in there but I can't keep them 100% clean during assembly. heres like to cb preformance do it your self motors That was one of the kits I showed the owner to start with. Due to time issues and me not having a good area to assemble the engine we decided to go with a turnkey or assembled long block. Look at Raby's DTM (Down The Middle) shrouds. Very good stuff. www.aircooledtechnology.com/type1/dtm/index.htmThose do look very nice! If those are too expensive is my next best option to paint/powdercoat the original tin? Chico motors have very high ratings. www.steelbugin.com/ Ok....how about which engine would you pick that comes as an assembled longblock for around $3K? I've been amazed at the options out there...but very expensive as well! lol
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 4, 2010 23:31:03 GMT -5
If you were going to order either a turnkey 1776 or a long block to outfit with dual carbs, chrome tin, etc. which one would it be and from what supplier?
Guess what I'm ordering next!
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