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Post by leslamcke on Jul 14, 2010 21:02:08 GMT -5
Just had knee surgery and can get finishing my Bradley, got the doors fitted and most the interior set up. My only hang up right now is my wiring!! When i picked it up all of the wiring was there and 99 percent of it matches the colored wiring diagram i pulled off the website. I am getting power to my headlight motor but that's it, none of the other lights work! Should i start over? is there some step i didn't take in hooking it up to the battery? driving me nuts as car electrical will do
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 14, 2010 21:20:41 GMT -5
On any old car, especially a fiberglass one, I'd check all of the grounds. Just think of the wiring as a river: the electricity/water has to go into and out of every switch or bulb.
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Post by leslamcke on Jul 14, 2010 22:36:39 GMT -5
is the steering box bolt a reliable ground? i have checked it and its not grounded should i run a dedicated ground to the battery?
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Post by smyrnaguy on Jul 15, 2010 7:19:16 GMT -5
I'd run a new grounding bolt through the pan near the master cylinder or a self tapping screw/bolt into the tunnel. The front beam was probably painted before the installation of the steering box as was the pan before the beam was installed. You could have several layers of paint or rust at different points insulating your ground.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 15, 2010 8:30:08 GMT -5
Did you check the fuse?
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Post by urmonkey on Jul 15, 2010 11:14:45 GMT -5
how would this work for wiring the car, it includes: WIRE LOOM KIT Complete wiring kit includes 6 panel fuse box, fuses, wire, ends, fittings, electrical tape & instructions. Great for buggies, kit cars, and other special applications. costs: $64.95 Attachments:
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 15, 2010 11:31:56 GMT -5
GARBAGE.....really.
Look at the fusebox. Old style ceramic fuses. Look how the wires attach...they are held in by screws! terrible...terrible...terrible.
Yeah...I am a fanatic about wiring. After rebuilding 10 kits I found that the most universally poorly done part is the wiring. And there is no reason for it. It takes less skill than bodywork or mechanical work. It just takes time, and a desire to be neat.
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 15, 2010 11:40:38 GMT -5
Look at the fuse box. Old style ceramic fuses. Look how the wires attach...they are held in by screws! terrible...terrible...terrible. Yeah...I am a fanatic about wiring. After rebuilding 10 kits I found that the most universally poorly done part is the wiring . And there is no reason for it. it takes less skill than bodywork or mechanical work. It just takes time, and a desire to be neat. |
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Post by leslamcke on Jul 15, 2010 12:03:13 GMT -5
Very well said, i do a ton of electrical at work and its one of those things where neatness counts because when something goes wrong (especially in a low voltage circumstance where you have relays, transformers, and small brittle wires) neatness goes a long way in troubleshooting the problem. If i can't figure it out soon i will at least take off some of the electrical tape hiding the wires behind the dash and do some tracking down. Last resort will be re-wiring the entire thing  |
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Post by urmonkey on Jul 15, 2010 12:47:44 GMT -5
im glad i asked you guys, been really thinking of totally redoing the wiring when i pull the body off to do the pans
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 15, 2010 13:45:21 GMT -5
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Post by leslamcke on Jul 15, 2010 14:12:49 GMT -5
very very clean!
did you use the headlight motor?
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Post by leslamcke on Jul 15, 2010 14:27:52 GMT -5
Done just going to re do it, i want to put new switches in anyhow
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 15, 2010 20:45:03 GMT -5
It wasn't completely done in those pics.
It was a GT....although I did build a GTII.
Headlight motor was fried so I picked up a new one from a large panel truck (like a UPS truck). It was a wiper motor. It is woefully inadequate for the job. My Aztec 7 will use a linear actuator for the motor. I highly suggest you consider one as well.
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 15, 2010 21:56:57 GMT -5
It wasn't completely done in those pics. It was a GT....although I did build a GTII. Headlight motor was fried so I picked up a new one from a large panel truck (like a UPS truck). It was a wiper motor. It is woefully inadequate for the job. My Aztec 7 will use a linear actuator for the motor. I highly suggest you consider one as well. I concur with jspbtown, an electrical linear actuator is the way to go for the GTII headlight assembly. I used one and it is easy to do. I can provide photos to the interested ones. |
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Post by Tony O. on Jul 16, 2010 7:31:56 GMT -5
I would definitely like to see some pictures of the linear actuator used used for GTII headlights along with any part numbers and supplier info.
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Post by leslamcke on Jul 16, 2010 11:55:13 GMT -5
Yes pics would be sweet, i may consider it even though my current set up works fine
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 16, 2010 12:01:02 GMT -5
When I was building the GTII I had such a hard time with that set up. I fried the motor by trying to get it to work, leaving the ignition on and checking something in the house. When I came back out the motor was smoking and almost on fire. Its really a terrible, and in my opinion, unsafe set up.
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 16, 2010 12:47:09 GMT -5
Yes pics would be sweet, i may consider it even though my current set up works fine I created a new thread upon your request, not to hickjack this one Horacio |
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