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Post by dustejacket on Jun 19, 2010 22:27:27 GMT -5
I have a few questions for some of your knowledgable people out there. I have a Bradley GT Kit Car and I'm going to put this on a new pan and everything, I just wanted to know if the 1100 cc, 1300 cc, and 1500 cc engines will fit this car. And does anyone know if all VW transmissions are compatible with all other VW's?
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Eric A
Full Member
It's an obsession not an investment!
Posts: 223
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Post by Eric A on Jun 20, 2010 10:55:54 GMT -5
Hi. Mine had a 1200 in it when I got it. I changed to a 1641. But all type 1 IRS and straight axle trans should fit and all type 1 motors should fit 1100 and up. The only problem is if you start changing carbs to a holly bugspray ar some of the webber single carbs you can't get an air cleaner on it. That is why mine has a body mod to allow room for the carb.
Eric A
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Post by vallyr on Jun 20, 2010 11:30:01 GMT -5
you can get the air cleaner to fit if you do a 3 inch lift with the empi lift kit then use drop spindles
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Post by vallyr on Jun 20, 2010 11:34:25 GMT -5
personally im using a 1600 single port with a big air cleaner, that didnt fit when i purchased it, and you can see where the previous air cleaner got hot and singed the bottom of the fiberglass.
I put my own motor in it after lifting it, and going to put a lowered beam with drop spindles up front and leave it jacked up looking in the back and just fill out the gap with larger tires for a more mean look. I made my lift kit out of 1/8 inch square steel tubing(probably buffer than the empi kit but harder to fit on-60$) empi kit is probably the quickest, easiest and lowest skill set(not a bad thing) method. We lifted the brad body easily with four guys.
Now the stock air cleaner fits fine with plenty of space in between. Which also paid off because it gave me more vertical heighth to mount my breather box that runs to the valve covers.
So yeah i agree with the previous poster you should be able to fit almost any engine in there, and if you want bigger or custom just lift it. Which I recommend anyways since the roof is kind of low
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Post by vallyr on Jun 20, 2010 11:39:54 GMT -5
Course, if you wanted to fit a really crazy motor in there you could do what paul newman did back in the sixties to his vw bug to fit a 351(http://blog.cardomain.com/2009/11/01/paul-newmans-mid-engine-ford-351-powered-vw-beetle/), and some guy on youtube did to a yellow and black bradley with a yamaha engine(http://www.youtube.com/user/oaky132x).
Make a sub frame, drop the motor in mid ship then youd have all sorts of room to back it out wherever.
All depends on skill level and money you have to throw at it. I am near broke and have some welding buddies so yeah 60$ at your steel yard and some cases of beer for the buds and you can fit anything lol
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Post by dustejacket on Jun 25, 2010 20:07:23 GMT -5
It turns out to be a bradley GT II, is there anyway to tell what year it is? And what size engines fit the GT II? And what year Bug's?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 25, 2010 22:22:44 GMT -5
Any VW engine, any year chassis (no Supers) and no...no way to find out what year Bradley.
That of course begs the question "Does it really matter what year it is?"
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Post by don29163 on Jun 25, 2010 23:25:03 GMT -5
Lets see some pictures of it.
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Post by runnerjohn on Jun 26, 2010 10:41:39 GMT -5
One other thing to consider, also: VW's were 6 volt through '66. The 12 volt flywheel is a bit larger than the 6 volt one. So, if you try to use an older engine that's converted to 12 volts or a newer 12 volt engine in an older, 6 volt transmission, you may have to enlarge the tranny opening a bit. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this, because I'm a bit rusty on my VW lore. I have a '66 1300 engine that's been converted to 12 volts in my early '67 pan, and you can see where someone machined the opening out a bit. Once you have that done, pretty much any year aircooled VW engine will mate up to it.
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Post by dustejacket on Jun 26, 2010 10:47:16 GMT -5
Here's the pictures Attachments:
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 26, 2010 20:38:48 GMT -5
Yes...a 6 volt tranny needs to be clearanced to have the 12 volt flywheel. (180mm vs 200mm). Not a big deal.
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Post by centralvalleygter on Jun 26, 2010 23:01:10 GMT -5
Actually, it seems like I remember that people did convert to 12 volts but used the 6 volt starter & flywheel. Since the starter was used intermittently, it would work on 12 volts, at least for a reasonable amount of time (I'm sure the starters had shorter life-spans on 12 volts, but their life was still measured in years and not months). So you could use the time and money on other parts of the car -- for a while anyway.
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Post by vallyr on Jun 26, 2010 23:37:04 GMT -5
the bug me video series covers conversions I believe. Google it and buy the series. HIGHLY VALUBLE. runs through the basics of nearly every aspect of bug repairo
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 27, 2010 8:10:16 GMT -5
centralvalleygter,
Converting from a 6 volt system to a 12 volt system is one thing. In this process the engine, tranny, flywheel & starter stays the same, you just go from a 6 volt generator to a 12v gen or alternator. And yes...the starter works just fine as long as it is not abused.
What I was referring to is swapping a later motor (already 12v) into a 6 volt tranny. The tranny is designed to accomodate a 6 volt flywheel. The motor is not. It needs a 12 volt flywheel. In this instance you need to clearance the tranny. The starter also needs to be replaced and I HIGHLY recommend using a starter from an autostick car.
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Post by superdave008 on Jun 27, 2010 10:53:47 GMT -5
I just machined my transmission to fit a 12 volt 1600 motor, the local vw shop charges $125 to do that but its pretty easy if you are mechanically inclined . they walked me through the process and were very helpful. you might want to check out the web for detailed instructions. this might work.
motor change / vw 1600 12 volt / to swing axel transmission.
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Post by superdave008 on Jun 27, 2010 10:56:24 GMT -5
good luck if you research this and ask some questions people will give you the info you need .
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Post by dustejacket on Jul 19, 2010 12:11:11 GMT -5
Are there any tricks to getting doors off? My passenger door is stuck, rusted inside and everything, it's getting in the way, I have the panel off the inside so I can see down inside it, the lock/door handle is not attached to the part that opens the door.
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Post by geebee09 on Jul 19, 2010 14:10:49 GMT -5
I had a problem with one of the doors on my GT. It moved freely but wouldn't pull out of the hinges like the other door. I tried to tap it loose with a hammer and chisel and finally gave up because I was afraid it might break.
After a VERY close inspection I found a tiny tap screw that could only be removed with a hex key (allen head wrench). I didn't have one that small, but my mechanic did...and he never would have found the screw if I didn't point it out, because it was well hidden.
I'm still trying to solve THIS mystery: Why would you take a gull-wing door that's designed to be easily removed (especially in South Florida where it's hot as blazes) and essentially weld it into place? The guy who built it checked out a long time ago...so I guess I'll never know.
Hope your dilemma is as mechanically-simple to solve as mine. Good luck!
Dave
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doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Jul 19, 2010 20:38:16 GMT -5
I think the hinges came that way one hinge on either door was that way to keep them from coming un-hinged when the door was opened. if you don't do that the door will thingy sideways because of the part that holds the door up will push it a little sideways and it could pop off. or if for some dumb reason you try to drive with the door open you will still have part of the door left on to use as a pattern after you hit a bump and the door flexes or the wind blows it off .
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Post by geebee09 on Jul 20, 2010 11:31:00 GMT -5
Doug,
I have two assembly manuals and the original builder's notes, but couldn't find any mention of my mystery screw. But your explanation makes perfect sense. Fortunately, since removing it, I haven't had any problem. The door fits nice and tight. Kudos to the original owner!
Also, great advice about NOT driving with the door open. My passenger-side door is cracked on the top between the two hinges. That's probably how it happened.
Thanks, Dave
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doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Jul 20, 2010 18:06:30 GMT -5
and dont let anyone else close your doors, if they dont know you have to lift then lower.... otherwise......snap
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Post by dustejacket on Jul 23, 2010 15:08:16 GMT -5
Door is off =) was a little rough, and probably going to make some problems for later, but not too bad, and it's now on a stand, one more seat to get out, and WALLAH chassis is a goner!
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 23, 2010 16:15:05 GMT -5
Hi, geebee,
Bradley put the stock marine hinge in a vice (jig), taped two hacksaw blades together and created a slot to accept that set screw. The screw did as Doug explained -- prevent the door from coming unhinged.
Left and right hinge assemblies were the same, so one gull would slide rearward to disengage while the other would slide forward. Accidental unhinging was the result of forward or rearward pressure on the gull as it was raised or lowered. The set screws kept the gulls from sliding at all.
I no longer use the set screws because years of driving my GT have taught me to always apply pressure when raising or lowering to prevent the doors from disengaging. When I did use the "locks," my upgrade was to hit the hinge barrel with an 8-32 tap, and replace the set screws with thumbscrews. No hex key (Allen wrench) is needed and thumbscrews are much easier to remove.
Mystery solved.
Warmest...
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Post by pushnfords on Jul 23, 2010 16:22:42 GMT -5
Looks like you have the twin to the car I'm working on. Check my signature for pics.
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Post by dustejacket on Jul 24, 2010 9:03:55 GMT -5
I guess so! lol, do you plan on restoring that engine of yours?
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