|
|
Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 18, 2013 18:30:21 GMT -5
For the throttle cable you can do something like I did for my subi. A bracket that accepts the motorcycle cable and a long 1/4" tube {or a long bicycle cable csasing}. Not shown in the pic is the tube, it sits inside the nut to stop movement. In your case the tube should be welded to the bracket.The core is replaced with a single 1/16 cable to which the required ends are attached. Crimp on piece inside the twist grip and stock VW on the engine end.  |
|
|
|
Post by trimagnum on Apr 18, 2013 20:20:01 GMT -5
For the throttle cable you can do something like I did for my subi. A bracket that accepts the motorcycle cable and a long 1/4" tube {or a long bicycle cable csasing}. Not shown in the pic is the tube, it sits inside the nut to stop movement. In your case the tube should be welded to the bracket.The core is replaced with a single 1/16 cable to which the required ends are attached. Crimp on piece inside the twist grip and stock VW on the engine end. Basically the same rig I used for the throttle cable on the Trimagnum. |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 18, 2013 21:09:07 GMT -5
I remember see that on your build.
Good idea, but smaller.
Thanks for all the help & info, Bossman
|
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 20, 2013 18:14:12 GMT -5
Not to much to report today. Cut/fitted & tacked the neck top support.  The rest of the day went to grinding, sanding, cleaning & primeing the handle bars. Also drill holes at the front & under the tops so to run the wires from the switches inside the tubes.  |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 20, 2013 19:19:09 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 21, 2013 5:01:57 GMT -5
Here's the fruit of my labor yesterday. Using the poor mans chrome & clear, finished painting the handle bars last night. So this AM went out ran the control wire into the tubing & mounted them. NOTE COFFEE MUG!!!!   That Black box sitting on top of the Blue Mig Welder is my new Plasma Cutter, which has really come in handy on this project. Still to run the brake line. Need to find a shorter Batt. to fit in there or move it to the back. Forks need to come back off the finish the welding on the neck with bracing. Grease the bearing & re-install hopefully for the last time till I paint the whole Trike. |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 22, 2013 20:16:07 GMT -5
Today was mostly name badges day. Did up up lug nuts & mounted Dayton Wire rims on Trike.  Exchanged Batt. for a shorter model, looks good so far. Put the body back on again. That's it folks!  |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 23, 2013 9:07:18 GMT -5
Taking a break from Badge today to work on Trike. Mainly the seat needs to get done! But I did get the batt. mount the morning. There is a gap on the rear mount for some rubber.  |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 23, 2013 9:26:20 GMT -5
This is what the back will look like. Found a rack in my GolgWing stuff, think it look good sitting there.  That's an 11 gal Alum. gas tank sitting on top. |
|
|
|
Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 23, 2013 13:17:54 GMT -5
Ruined the look. Stick the tank under the glass behind he rear wheel. Or a belly pod under the tunnel.
|
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 23, 2013 15:57:24 GMT -5
OK, been thinking more then working. Cut the rear floor & moved it back 3", looks better? Welded nut to frame for ground strip.  And yes, I have been working on the Driver seat.  |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 23, 2013 18:28:23 GMT -5
Got the seat platform tacked together. The seat will flip forward to get to the goody under it.  |
|
|
|
Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 24, 2013 9:28:52 GMT -5
Instead of the one large tank, what about two smaller ones hidden under the fenders. Use one as primary, and one as reserve... have lines run to a shutoff before a T fitting, then back to the carb(s).
No meaning to jump he gun, but do you have any ideas for headlight(s) yet? It would be interesting to see a hideaway setup to keep the look going like the GTII... Maybe units fom Ford Probe, Mazda Miata, or Dodge Daytona?
|
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 24, 2013 10:56:12 GMT -5
Instead of the one large tank, what about two smaller ones hidden under the fenders. Use one as primary, and one as reserve... have lines run to a shutoff before a T fitting, then back to the carb(s). No meaning to jump he gun, but do you have any ideas for headlight(s) yet? It would be interesting to see a hideaway setup to keep the look going like the GTII... Maybe units fom Ford Probe, Mazda Miata, or Dodge Daytona? Thinking about a 7 gal tank 3" x 16" x 36" to mount under the rear seat on the frame. Have to chopper head lights coming in & will have driving lites w/ turn sig on them. |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 24, 2013 11:58:31 GMT -5
Forks are off again! welded 1/4" plate at the neck/frame, it's now grind down & sanded waiting for paint.  Welded the down bar & added 1/4" plate to reenforce it.  Now back to my seat. |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 24, 2013 18:45:28 GMT -5
Front end is all painted. Batt. installed. Adding curved tubing in the rear for body mods. Will grease the fork bearing & install for the last time I hope. It's now been 22 days of work so far.   |
|
|
|
Post by trimagnum on Apr 24, 2013 19:44:17 GMT -5
This one is for when grannies toss bricks at ya lol  When you are so blind one light just won't cut it lol  A new use for old driving/fog lights lol  |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 24, 2013 20:47:18 GMT -5
The 3nd picture in what I will be doing with the lights below. Most States only perment up to 6 white lights in the front.  With these between then.  |
|
|
|
Post by horen2tas on Apr 24, 2013 21:44:23 GMT -5
Hide the tanks  Belly Pods Under the rear seat frame ? It's a cycle fer cryin' out loud!!! don't the gas tanks go on the down bar   |
|
|
|
Post by trimagnum on Apr 25, 2013 0:45:02 GMT -5
And around 26 inch minimum height for the main headlamps. The headlight height made me mount my lights up under the mirrors.  First paint colour |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 25, 2013 4:41:51 GMT -5
24" to center of Head light.
There are no reg. for lights on a Motorcycle here in TN, in fact, no reg for MC at all.
|
|
|
|
Post by trimagnum on Apr 25, 2013 6:19:45 GMT -5
The following states mandate that headlight height be between 24 and 54 inches from ground level: Alaska, Arkansas, Washington DC, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana, Maine, New Mexico, New York, Oklahoma, Oregon and Texas. Looks like we both dodged the bullet according to eHow I'll sleep better knowing this |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 25, 2013 7:01:28 GMT -5
That's a nice looking Tri-Magnum from Robert Q. Riley Plans.
Way back when I build the Centurion & Trimuter.
Have the plans for the new XR3 Plug-In Hybrid
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Apr 25, 2013 10:23:28 GMT -5
Hey Skip,
whadaya think about recessing the lights into rear cowling, in front of the rear wheels, would look cool....
Amazing work as always, keep it up.... bob
|
|
|
|
Post by trimagnum on Apr 25, 2013 16:39:19 GMT -5
That's a nice looking Tri-Magnum from Robert Q. Riley Plans. Way back when I build the Centurion & Trimuter. Have the plans for the new XR3 Plug-In Hybrid Thanks ;D There are some nice build videos of the XR3 on Youtube. If I do another Trimagnum a garage will get built first lol building in a tent sux.  The good old itchy days |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 25, 2013 16:46:01 GMT -5
Got the gas cable figured out, now to run the VW cable to the back & connect the two together.  Added addition bracing for the fender ext. in case anybody steps there instead of the rubber mat. Will also add tubing in the floor as it will be fiberglass now.  And here is the control center. The switches & handles are off a Honda GoldWing.  |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 26, 2013 17:28:53 GMT -5
A little update for Friday. Went down town & got the Alum. backing for the seat cut out, I will be doing the trimming.  Plan on a tow hitch, so picked up a 2". Then I found the coolest light to slide into it.  Trimmed to front plate & need to get some Alum. rivets to mount it.  And here is a little toy in front of the Batt. some may know what it for.  Now have under $2000.00 in her |
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 27, 2013 9:32:08 GMT -5
And here is the other 2/3's of the last picture.  And this MAY be the place for the M/C gauges.  Need to figure out if I can get the Tack to work with the VW. The M/C was a 90°V-four cylinder. Get the seat finished, setup the pedals & the wiring job will begin. |
|
|
|
Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 27, 2013 11:25:23 GMT -5
Tach should be staight forward. 4cyl is 4 cyl.
|
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Apr 27, 2013 16:29:43 GMT -5
Tach should be straight forward. 4cyl is 4cyl. A little research, turns out the tach goes to a spark unit (green wire) then into a (IN 4 wires, 2 to coils, one to key & one to tach) Pulse Generators (OUT 4 wires) which has, 2-4 & 1-3 Now What? Don't have them!  |
|
