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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 27, 2013 18:24:17 GMT -5
What you have is a wasted spark system. One coil fires 2 plugs at the same time. One is on compression while the mating cyl is on exhaust. So your tach is technically for a 2 cyl engine. You can run the tach wire to your coil neg and it will work but it will show 2x the actual rpm.
It would be easier and probably cheaper to get a 4 cyl tach.
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Post by skip20 on Apr 27, 2013 18:41:08 GMT -5
What you have is a wasted spark system. One coil fires 2 plugs at the same time. One is on compression while the mating cyl is on exhaust. So your tach is technically for a 2 cyl engine. You can run the tach wire to your coil neg and it will work but it will show 2x the actual rpm. It would be easier and probably cheaper to get a 4 cyl tach. Thank you, I knew you have the answer. Got the gas cable hookup, drill a hole centered in a 5/16" bolt & use to flat washer & one locking nut. Yes picked up the rebuilt Carb today. |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 27, 2013 19:23:05 GMT -5
Say it isn't so..You picked up a rebuilt carb, I thought you would rebuild yourself
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Post by skip20 on Apr 27, 2013 20:23:59 GMT -5
Say it isn't so..You picked up a rebuilt carb, I thought you would rebuild yourself Had someone else rebuild it, it's been over 20 years since I did one. |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 29, 2013 18:11:10 GMT -5
Not much to report, been working on the seat & painted 2 days ago, but it rained for the past 3 days & wouldn't dry.
Sun today paint dried & starting the put the cover back on.
Still working on the 4000 name badged for Hawaiian Airlines.
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Post by skip20 on Apr 30, 2013 14:45:51 GMT -5
Seats covers on, more to do it.  Driving/Turn sig lights came in.  Still waiting on the Head Lights. They are some where in JAMAICA, NY |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 30, 2013 17:26:54 GMT -5
Been working on the seat. 1st I cut it down & shaped it, then used form to glue the back plywood on Got the Alum cut & trimmed to fit. Put an edging around it. Drilled holes though the Alum & plywood, installed 6 - 3/8" wood nuts. Then glued the bottom plywood to the seat . Mounted the cover on, them some silicon sealer before the Alum went on. Drilled & installed S/S screwed though the Alum into the wood backing. Now back down to get the corner braces bent then popped riveted on. Way TO MUCH work for what I got.   Here the seat is tilted up with hinges.  |
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Post by TexasIceMan on Apr 30, 2013 17:41:46 GMT -5
She's looking good, Skip! I find myself logging on every day to see what progress you have made. You have spoiled us. We could hardly wait for you to finish the name badges. Keep up the good work.
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Post by skip20 on May 1, 2013 13:39:01 GMT -5
OH NO!!! The VW Trike has been moved to the car port.  The Honda Trike been moved inside to prep for trip up to Williamsburg VA. next week.  Wife doesn't think she could do 600 miles on the Blue Ridge Parkway, so we will trailer it up on the Trailer I built for it last year.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 2, 2013 10:07:40 GMT -5
OK, she back in the garage. Got the cross bar & hitch receiver welded on. And look at who's looking at you! ;D ;D  The seat hinges are tacked, so now you can see how it tilts forward to get to the elec. goody & frame serial #.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 3, 2013 8:42:29 GMT -5
Added double LCD driving lights to the lower front floor.  Also bracing the body seeing how it's only 1/3 a Bradley GTII. It goes from the bottom rear up & over to the back of the seat area, though the 2 plywood sides the to the front of the seating sides. This is all 3/4" Sq. Tubing I had laying around taking up space.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 4, 2013 8:49:46 GMT -5
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Post by skip20 on May 4, 2013 15:21:23 GMT -5
OK, the secret out!  Now you can see why I was bracing the body shell. Still working on it, but close.   |
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Post by skip20 on May 4, 2013 16:29:45 GMT -5
All welded up & flipping. This is as high as she will co, rear panel hits the tow hitch. Sure will make it easier to work on the stuff back there instead of on/off-on/off of the body, now just flip. Will need to flip to fill the future gas tank also. Should get a few looks at the gas pumps.   If you can make it out, here is the hinge system I came up with on the 2nd try, 1st didn't work out so will.  |
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 5, 2013 16:43:06 GMT -5
Is there anything you can't do... yet? Your GTII /Sub builds blow my mind, then you build a B2 trike, and now as if it were't rare enough, I see for the first time ever a tilt body shell. I take my hat off to your awesomeness.
-I bet your car insurance company goes nuts when the talk to you. lol
And I thought I was doing something great when I used front tilt hood parts from a buick and made my dodge dakota pickup hood tiltforward.
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Post by skip20 on May 5, 2013 18:33:53 GMT -5
Body is flipped so now I can start the wiring headache. Install Ford starter sol., then on to the VW starter. Wired the starter switch up & she cranks over. Wired the Alt. to batt. & installed a red light for the dash.  Ran a metal brake line from the Honda front master to the junction block on the forks. Need to find anther adp. for the junction.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 6, 2013 6:52:19 GMT -5
Why the Ford style relay? There is no need for it. The concept as used on a Beetle is to use a standard bosch relay that requires next to no amperage to control the higher amperage for the starter solenoid. This takes the load off of the ign switch. The Ford relay draws almost as much as the VW starter solenoid. Closer inspection of your wiring cicuit I see that you might be using a ground control setup to trigger the starter, it may not work as wired. If I see it correctly the diagram below is what you have.  The problem I see is that you have no power source to trigger the ford relay if the red wire going to the gen area is hooked up to the gen post. Typical pos control of the ford relay would be like this.  For ground control simply connect one small term on the ford relay to the big term on the starter then ground the remaining small ford term through a pushbutton switch. |
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Post by skip20 on May 6, 2013 7:07:26 GMT -5
Yes I notice the Alt wire in the wrong place last night looking at the pictures. I think I need to send it to the Ford Batt Pos. The starting button goes to Batt + & Ford Sol. It does crank the engine over. Saw a number of Youtube which they used the Ford Sol, so used one also. Thanks again for you sharp eyes  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 6, 2013 13:13:10 GMT -5
Like I mentioned by using the Ford relay you are not reducing the current draw on the start switch. Just making the simple system more complex.If you want to reduce the current on the switch just use a 40a bosch relay. term 30 to battery, Term 87 to VW starter sol spade term. Term 86 to grnd and term 85 to your start switch.  This will greatly reduce the current load on the start switch and make it last a lot longer. |
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Post by centralvalleygter on May 6, 2013 16:30:41 GMT -5
I use the relay system shown by Dan on my Bradley. It does work well and did eliminate the need to replace the generic ingnition-starter switch every couple of years, which I had to do before installing the relay.
Interesting that someone had installed the Ford relay on my VW bus and at this point I continue to use it. It also seems to work well.
Warmest Regards....
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Post by skip20 on May 6, 2013 17:07:39 GMT -5
Today was drive day. Went to metal Fab shop & got the 2 corners bent up for the seat. Then drove the 1 hour out to the M/C yard to get one little brake hose adp. & also picked up 2 head light brackets. Got back home & worked on the seat.   |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 7, 2013 5:31:21 GMT -5
Sweet
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Post by skip20 on May 7, 2013 9:19:40 GMT -5
Got the driving light mounted, now working on the 2 head lights. Mounted the top light to the neck, but won't clear the forks in a turn.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 7, 2013 10:57:24 GMT -5
Top head light is tacked in place. Have a little trouble with the bottom one still. Brake lines are in the way.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 7, 2013 11:42:58 GMT -5
By George I Think I've Got IT!!!  2nd light is tacked in. Need to brace for the whole unit now as just 1 6mm bolt is holding the whole thing together. Now there's 2 headlight, 4 driving light, Law say no more then 6 on a car.    |
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Post by skip20 on May 8, 2013 18:01:55 GMT -5
Not to much to report today, driving around mostly. Did pickup a pair of LED tail lights & tacked them in. Will use these when driving without the body & just change the plugs with body on.  Start to work on the wiring & tried to start the engine, but no gas in the carb, OH GREAT!   |
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Post by skip20 on May 9, 2013 18:05:54 GMT -5
Not much time today, "boring" wiring. Mounted 6 relays & 2 junction boxes. Play with turn sig/haz wiring.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 10, 2013 17:50:14 GMT -5
More wiring. Head lights low on with key, High on though switch on handlebars. Side lights on with switch, they are not driving lights, no relay.  Lower LED Driving lights on. Wired to switch, no relay.  Rear lights & tow wired up the convert box, skull on hitch plugged in. |
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Post by skip20 on May 11, 2013 14:51:20 GMT -5
Today tried turn sig. no luck.
Cleaned up some of the wiring, install a few plugs.
Off to dinner for Mother Day.
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Post by skip20 on May 11, 2013 20:32:00 GMT -5
Well here's the rats nest. The turn sig lights are on, not good!  The relay clicks with turn sig button on, but no blinking. M/C switch system has 3 relays on it which I'm trying to not use.  |
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