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Post by skip20 on Apr 7, 2013 12:37:20 GMT -5
WOW, 6 days after thinging about & 100's of youtube, She up on all three. Now for the hard part, remove Trans, flip her over & finish the welds under & clean it up for paint.    |
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 7, 2013 13:25:21 GMT -5
That is totally Amazin" but............ You shouldn't have gotten rid of the twoie front end old boy  |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 7, 2013 13:30:50 GMT -5
That is totally Amazin" but............ You shouldn't have gotten rid of the twoie front end old boy Now that's cute!  Even have blue & black jeans on.  |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 7, 2013 17:23:16 GMT -5
Bottom welding finished, clean rails & painted. The bug was undercoated & as the GTII body will hide it, will leave it as is. Waiting for the paint to dry so I can flip it back before all the trans fluid come out.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 7, 2013 17:35:50 GMT -5
Are you triangulating the framehead back to the tunnel? I think it will bend the way it is.
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Post by trimagnum on Apr 7, 2013 17:44:45 GMT -5
 Skip you are going to do an suround for the front half something like this ? |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 7, 2013 18:32:12 GMT -5
Are you triangulating the framehead back to the tunnel? I think it will bend the way it is. Yes, there is still a thick wall 2x2 or 2x3 from the top of the nech to the tunnel housing. |
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 7, 2013 18:54:44 GMT -5
I don't know about the bell bottoms this must be the look Skip's going for  |
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Post by trimagnum on Apr 7, 2013 20:14:37 GMT -5
lol nice photoshop |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 7, 2013 21:19:41 GMT -5
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Post by skip20 on Apr 9, 2013 12:22:37 GMT -5
After goofing off some & going out to the MC grave yard (85 miles RT) to pick up the papers for the neck, I did nothing on the trike yesterday. This AM drove out to the VW Speed Shop (65 miles RT), got some new goody's. 1st a EMPI seat w/cover $110.00, EMPI engine cage $65.00, Carb rebuild kit & some Ex Headers.  But the BIG NEWS is I found a CURE for the GTII BUTT SNAG!!!!!!!! For $65.00 plus your tax, a little hammering & welding, FIXED. The cage comes welded & tubes which slide into it. The shock mounts tube need to be hammered over about 45. The Trans mount tubes bolt to the two large bolts on the Trans cross over, need BIG socket. BUT, the engine should be OUT to do this. Also the engine needs to be in before you reinstall it after welding the four tube. With it together, rubber hammer it to were you want to to sit. Tick weld the remove for welding.   You may be able to see that the cage sits with the plywood inner fenders. Use 2" or 3" bar stock & drill two holes into it, these will bolt though the plywood. Being sure the body is now straight, weld the bar stock to the tubing of the cage. Will be adding picture as I do it. |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 9, 2013 13:50:31 GMT -5
Here it is, body off & all welded up. Tick welded body mounts on with a 1/8" spacer behind them. Then drilled all of the holes though the plywood so it will mount back in the same place.  And paint.  The 2" angle would be the best for the GTII. Should add a wedge under the angle for better support. I added 2 more up front as this will hold only the rear section of a GTII for a Trike. |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 9, 2013 18:12:36 GMT -5
Here are the header I got today. These have glass packs on them. This is the LAST time I'm taking them on/off, on/off, on/off. But I will check the valve adjustment before they go on tight. Time to get the engine ready to install.  |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 10, 2013 16:52:30 GMT -5
Engine & cage are on. The pretty red things are the air shocks I found with the engine at the junk yard.   Will be adding a tow ball later. |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 11, 2013 10:10:02 GMT -5
Phase 1 of the redo body design.   Any ideas? Planning to keep the rest of the body stock, even the tail lights. |
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Post by 48flatbed on Apr 11, 2013 10:26:55 GMT -5
Skip,
Great job as always!
As far as ideas go-if it can be done, and I know YOU can do it, I would round off the corners (above the cardboard)a little.
Jon
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Post by skip20 on Apr 11, 2013 12:11:31 GMT -5
After seeing the picture, I got the same idea. No sharp corner to hurt anyone. Made the rear floor frame, need to get something to cover the. Next is to mount my EMPE seat  |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 11, 2013 13:04:31 GMT -5
Made a template for the rear floor & worked on the body sides a little more. YES, I sit here & share at these picture's which help me come up with ideas. And a lot of coffee in my RED mug.   |
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Post by dawgdk on Apr 11, 2013 13:25:41 GMT -5
I would take the side panels below the mold line and b ring them into a rounded point behind the drivers feet. I would also take the top trunk from your other trike and put it over a finished top on the back seat!! I do like the curve you put at the top of the rear fenders. Great progress thus far!! ;D
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Post by skip20 on Apr 11, 2013 17:14:21 GMT -5
I would take the side panels below the mold line and b ring them into a rounded point behind the drivers feet. I would also take the top trunk from your other trike and put it over a finished top on the back seat!! I do like the curve you put at the top of the rear fenders. Great progress thus far!! ;D Do you mean something like this? Good idea if so.    Looking at these pictures, I went out to the garage & did a little adding to it.   I like it! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D To bad I can't just fiberglass over the USPS boxes. |
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Post by trimagnum on Apr 11, 2013 18:44:50 GMT -5
Then box over the front frame like in the pic I posted and the floor boards without the sides . In front and rear sections for easy service. Where do you plan on putting your fuel tank?
You should be able to use the same method I used on my Tri-magnum for the basic structure.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 11, 2013 20:26:17 GMT -5
Some inspiration for you.  Has a spot for the rad when you put the Subi out back. |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 11, 2013 20:41:12 GMT -5
Nice thing about the engine cage, you can add a fourth engine mount to the lower oil pump cover bolts {like the early Beetle engined busses had} to relieve stress on the nosecone mount and shifter. Bonus is torque is carried by the chassis instead of the front mount. Add wheelie bars {shopping cart wheels or urethane skateboard wheels} to contol those sudden starts. I used skateboard wheels on my buggy. They come in handy as the car squats about 3 inches when you launch it from a stop.  |
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Post by trimagnum on Apr 11, 2013 21:59:11 GMT -5
Some inspiration for you. Has a spot for the rad when you put the Subi out back. That's what could happen to my 86 2m4  |
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Post by dawgdk on Apr 12, 2013 7:46:11 GMT -5
Skip, that is just what i had pictured in my head!! It will actually look even cooler when you drop a gas tank or tool box up front.
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Post by skip20 on Apr 12, 2013 13:07:32 GMT -5
After another 70 trip, got a few more goody's. Future Handle Bars.  Brake, clutch & gas, Shifter.  And tubing for the front floor.  Right now about $1400.00 into project. |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 12, 2013 18:43:00 GMT -5
trimmed the tubes for the front floor boards & welded 16g metal to them. Set them up & welded to frame.   Need to make seat mount so I can do the pedals. |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 13, 2013 7:30:25 GMT -5
Looks like the work on the Trike will be slowing down for a while.
Just got an order for 4200 name badges from Hawaiian Airlines, which is my bread & butter.
Hopefully will be able to take a few breaks & go out & work on her some.
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Post by skip20 on Apr 13, 2013 17:07:08 GMT -5
Got to think about it a little today. Batt. may go up front (weight). May go back to the rocker seat.  Something came in from eBay for the family.  This is what makes a VW Trike |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 13, 2013 20:03:03 GMT -5
One down, two to go. Mod the VW brake pedal & mount, turn it around so had to cut the foot block off. I tell you , it's NO FUN drilling 7/8" though 1/4" side tubing on both sides of it & I still have to to a 5/8" on the other side.  |
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