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Post by skip20 on Jun 11, 2014 17:23:38 GMT -5
OK, front end is finished, new ball joints & ti-rod ends. Will need a new alinement when back on the road Cleaned & lubed, paint steering box.   Rebuild the e-brake handle with a kit. Starting to work on the rear section, cleaning & painting the parts. Finished the brake lines & paint backing plate & drums. New mount mounts installed. Next to do, repack the CV Joints & mount the engine back in.  New Blue shock to come in next week. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 11, 2014 19:17:45 GMT -5
The easiest & biggest pain the the butt engine is back in!  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2014 10:03:23 GMT -5
Thanks to Dan MacMillan for the size, mounted 1" Sq. tubing to brace the rear end which was a body mount for the bug.  Aan the rear roll cage is painted  Starting to cut the carpet for the floors.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2014 11:44:59 GMT -5
Got the carpet tunnel done. The Honda Del Sol rear shelf w/boxes will need to be trimmed to fit & the speaker cove may not make it.  |
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Post by horen2tas on Jun 12, 2014 19:28:53 GMT -5
Lookin' Good Son!
You better make sure to wipe your feet real good before you get in!
I ain't gonna have you messin' up that nice light colored carpet,
you Hear ??
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2014 20:30:49 GMT -5
Lookin' Good Son! You better make sure to wipe your feet real good before you get in! I ain't gonna have you messin' up that nice light colored carpet, you Hear ?? HEAR, HEAR, that's why I have grease on my shoes to get it a little care. |
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jun 13, 2014 8:57:08 GMT -5
You might want to cover the carpet with plastic until your done. In the mean time, keep your greasy shoes off the carpet!
TIM
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Post by skip20 on Jun 16, 2014 9:40:04 GMT -5
Install the body rubber seal to the frame. The early bug had nail head to hold this, the newer ones do not. So used 1/8 x 1/4" pop rivets every other center hole. Made a hole punch from some 1/2" tubing (Sanding disc)& used a magic marker from under the rail to mark the rubber, then pouched out the holes.   |
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Post by horen2tas on Jun 16, 2014 16:05:26 GMT -5
Nice work Captain!
It's all in the details!
Lookin' Real Good.
That GT2 body is gonna sit down pretty!
all the best
Mike
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Post by skip20 on Jun 16, 2014 18:35:07 GMT -5
Thank you sir!
YouTube come in handy at times seeing the nail heads on the old bugs gave me the idea.
Got the pedal assy installed, need to bleed the brakes now.
Rear cage has been tighten down, will be adjusted after the body on.
Got a little more bodywork done, but boy is it HOT out there.
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Post by 48flatbed on Jun 16, 2014 21:08:52 GMT -5
Nice work Skip. Looking great!
Jon
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Post by skip20 on Jun 17, 2014 11:21:12 GMT -5
Nice work Skip. Looking great! Jon Thank you, it's been a long road which was suppose to be short.  |
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Post by 48flatbed on Jun 17, 2014 21:14:30 GMT -5
It may be taking awhile to finish, but all the pictures and your expertise are inspiring! I have some plans for my GT1 that I would not have considered before I saw your work. Thank you for letting us in on it all!
Jon
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Post by skip20 on Jun 17, 2014 22:44:58 GMT -5
I like that '48 you have, nice.
I'm here to help & hinder.
I will show my screw up as will as when the plan come together.
"?" are welcomed for what little I know about the GTII's
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Post by 48flatbed on Jun 18, 2014 20:56:16 GMT -5
Thanks on the 48! That's my shop truck I built it back in 2004. I need to make an avatar of one of my Bradleys sometime.
Jon
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Post by skip20 on Jun 19, 2014 17:24:39 GMT -5
Will the engine is back out as there's an oil leak & it hasn't even been running. Replace the rear seal, but the old one looked new still. However the round plug at the bottom was loose & would tune around. There's a grove in it so I figured you can't replace it without slipping the case (no way).   |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 27, 2014 7:41:17 GMT -5
Seeing how the rear cage fits the GTII on the VW Trike, went & but one on the Bradley GTII. Will also have a tow hitch welded to it. After looking at it for 5 hours, "OH nuts" won't be able to take the engine out, which you have to do in order to fit it! So I cut off the lower tubes, now there's no where to put the hutch. So got 2 - 3" X 1.5" tubing & welded them inside the upper tube & cut 3/4" more off both lower lube. Drilled 3/8" holds for bolts & will do the same under the car to mount them back on. Now will be able to remove the bolts & slide the tube off to lower the engine. The top tube may be weld to the shock mounts or bolted.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 30, 2014 10:07:44 GMT -5
Pickup a long tow baw for the bug frame. However due to the brackets for the gas tank, had to mod it. Cut the bottom off & move them in to clear the brackets. Also add some cross bracing to it.   |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 11, 2014 8:41:18 GMT -5
Did a repair to the GT II gas door, but the pictures didn't come out. Added a 5/16" brass tube from a hobby shop to fit the 1/4" hinge rod Bondo it in & added fiberglass to it. Sanded to tube down to to cover after do some bondo work around them. Found 2 for the 4 pictures.   |
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Post by skip20 on Sept 16, 2014 8:47:37 GMT -5
WOW, Back to the GTII. Built a roll bar to support the steering column so I can drive the frame around. Change the brake master to Super B model & bleed the brake. Also the column doesn't fit the box! shaft on column is to big.  Then there's this idea, would loss the rear shelf which is useless anyway. Gas tank from the GT in the back yard. Will use FORD duel gas tank switch to move between them..  |
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Post by skip20 on Sept 16, 2014 8:49:53 GMT -5
20+ gals of gas @ 40 MPG + 800 miles without a restroom break!!! Gas tank bracket is all welded in ready for paint.  Tank sits about 1.5" above the engine, hope it clears the rear window frame. Need to make 2 straps to hold it down.  |
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Post by skip20 on Oct 16, 2014 16:57:28 GMT -5
This is what is happening to the GTII. She getting a Subaru EJ2.2 in the butt . Just sitting there for now. So the yellow engine is up for sell in the classified.  |
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Post by skip20 on Oct 18, 2014 16:15:33 GMT -5
Nice find at the junk yard today for the new Subaru 2.2 GTII It's an A/C- Heater unit with all the hoses & vents for $57.00 Fix's nicely in the blower fan compartment.   |
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Post by skip20 on Oct 25, 2014 12:14:11 GMT -5
Got some new toys yesterday & worked on the GTII after it warm up a bit down here. 2 Honda Civic Alum Rads with elec. fans.  Kennedy engine adp., flywheel, new clutch assy. plus new rear seal. Mounted to the 1997 Subaru 2.2 engine  And then it's in the VW Trans & frame.  |
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Post by skip20 on Oct 25, 2014 16:51:13 GMT -5
Added the wiring harness before it's cut apart to test the engine. Still a few other things to do before I try to start it.  |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 4, 2014 16:50:04 GMT -5
OK, bigger engine with more HP, NEED better brakes then what the Bug has! Ordered front Disc brakes & will mount then as is. $259.00 Ordered rear Disc brakes w/o the e/stop, then w/o the CALIPER also, so just the Disc & mounting hardware. $270.00 -$75.00 for CALIPER & shipping cost. $195.00 Shipping was the killer at $55.00 each set. Junk yard run, 2002 VW Passat rear brake CALIPER (has new pads in them) with larger pistons, Brake line, E/cables with handle $50.00 & 1.5 hours to get them off. Cleaned them up a little after I got back home. Will need to mod the CALIPER mounting brackets to fit these. Stay Tune, as if these work out good here, will do the sane to the VW Trike rear brake.     |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 5, 2014 18:00:41 GMT -5
ALL RIGHT!!! Disc Brake kit came in. The front setup is pretty much straight forward. Added new bearing & greased them up, install with new seals. The rear I thought I would need to make the mounting holes longer to fit the different CALIPER. BOY, was I surprised & happy when I saw the rear mounting bracket.  It's longer then the one I got for the Trike & guess what?   Looks like all i have to do is drill the holes as the treads on on the caliper. There is a small gap that needs a spacer washer which I hope I can find at ACE Hardware.  And here it is with the floor jack holding it up.  So, drill the holes, mount the bracket & VW plate with new seal, slide on the disc & measure for the spacers needed. NOTE: do not push the brake pedel or the E-hanle when the calipers are off. I now need to get the piston pushed back in with a special tool. |
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Post by leonardabell on Nov 6, 2014 0:05:32 GMT -5
I just ran across a set of calipers that need to be turned to return it to full back. You might want to check to see if that is the case here?
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Post by skip20 on Nov 6, 2014 11:48:06 GMT -5
So far so good. After a lot of measuring, figured out where to drill the mounting plate. Did one then checked it again, then screwed to two together & drilled the other one.  Mounted them back on the car & checked again! Looking great. So installed the R/S bracket with new O-ring & seal in the kit, slipped on the rotor * mount the Caliper. FITS REALLY GOOD. Need to machine 4 - 0.366 spacers for them * work on the E-Brake handle & cable. New S/S brake line are coming in. Went from a 32mm piston to a larger 37mm.   Was able to use needle nose pliers to screw the piston back in on the L/S. Rally to mount that side. |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 7, 2014 8:28:05 GMT -5
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