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Post by skip20 on Feb 7, 2013 16:41:40 GMT -5
Will I said I wanted it! Bradley GT II for sale in Tenn. Trailered it home yesterday W/O engine. Will be looking at VW engines on Sat. Dual port with Alt. Want to drive it around this Summer. No door windows, no Engine, no E-brake, Wiring screwed, Gas Tank needs to be changed. Did get a good Batt with though. Got it tansfer into my name on the way home, car not needed & came from NC. Will ne selling the rims, think they are 4.5" on 5     My buddy on a cold moring  |
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 7, 2013 22:02:29 GMT -5
Body looks good in the light, I stopped off and looked at it on my way down to FL.
The wiring under the dash gave me heart failure, hope you got it for a better price than they were asking.
Personally I liked the Elvis -Mobile parked next to it!
BTW that last picture..... with winter coming to an end - you need to spring for a haircut and a shave son!
Good luck with that twoie!!!
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Post by skip20 on Feb 7, 2013 22:48:50 GMT -5
Body looks good in the light, I stopped off and looked at it on my way down to FL. The wiring under the dash gave me heart failure, hope you got it for a better price than they were asking. Personally I liked the Elvis -Mobile parked next to it! BTW that last picture..... with winter coming to an end - you need to spring for a haircut and a shave son! Good luck with that twoie!!! If you come back on the I-75 instead of the I-81, you need to swing by. I'm 5 miles from the I-75/I-40 in West Knoxville. Yes, got for 75% off W/O engine, which smoked from h*ll! "haircut and a shave" on the 22, I look like nuts. |
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Post by whcgt on Feb 9, 2013 23:59:07 GMT -5
Nice GT2, wonder why they didnt remove the rubber trim, when they painted the car? Is there any type of paint remover that doesnt damage rubber?
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Post by skip20 on Feb 10, 2013 6:19:06 GMT -5
Nice GT2, wonder why they didnt remove the rubber trim, when they painted the car? Is there any type of paint remover that doesnt damage rubber? Not happy bout that ether. Plus the paint job is really BAD with a lot of runs. Needs some work, but hope to drive it around soon this summer. Got a VW engine 1600 daul port w/ alt. Have to finish the rebuild that was started on it before it goes in.  |
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Post by skip20 on Feb 10, 2013 14:44:49 GMT -5
Cleaned up & worked on the engine a little today. Like the Yellow?  Will get Alt, Starter, Clutch Assy & screw for the points in the Dist. on Monday. Note: AC pulley & chrome valve covers.   |
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 10, 2013 16:37:11 GMT -5
I like the Yeller it goes with my seat covers!
Vacuum advance distributor? Automatic choke? Heat risers?
Don'r forget to connect up those fan housing tubes!
Hoo boy! You doin fair for a square!
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Post by skip20 on Feb 10, 2013 20:49:12 GMT -5
I like the Yeller it goes with my seat covers! Vacuum advance distributor? Automatic choke? Heat risers? Don'r forget to connect up those fan housing tubes! Hoo boy! You doin fair for a square! I do have the chrome valve covers!!! Hey, just doing with what I got. I don't know BUG's & Don't like BUG's I'm a Subby kind of guy!  |
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Post by skip20 on Feb 12, 2013 17:39:06 GMT -5
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 12, 2013 18:57:34 GMT -5
Say it isn't so. They got you on HHO. Hope you did not pay much for it.
A conventional car engine ingests on the high side of 500 liters of air per minute at idle, and a great deal more at highway speed. These generators generally produce a liter or less of HHO per minute. Or roughly 50 liters per hour, of which only two-thirds is hydrogen. At atmospheric pressure, hydrogen has a density of 0.0899 g/liter. One NASA study used 640 grams of hydrogen per hour to sweeten the mixture for its conclusions. I'll leave the homework to you, but, basically, the amount of hydrogen added to the combustion process by onboard hydrogen generators is far smaller than one percent of that used by the studies that hydrogen-enrichment proponents are quoting as "proof" that their gadgets work. Could you make a hydrogen generator that made that much HHO? Sure, but it would be huge, use far more electricity than the onboard generator could possibly produce, and consume most of the power the engine put out—and it would still not improve fuel economy.
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Post by skip20 on Feb 12, 2013 19:45:18 GMT -5
Thats why I want to try it out & see what it's all about.
Cost $200.00 to play with it.
Hopt to be able to get 20-30% better gas mileage, may not.
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Post by skip20 on Feb 12, 2013 19:52:10 GMT -5
Here the latest on the bug engine.  Got a header systom & heater box J-pipes. New single wire Alt (Made in Chine). Hoses, air filter & a few other small items to finish it.  Keeping the Vac Dist as the shop said on the stock engine alot of guys are going back to it. Yes also the heat crossover pipe. The is Stock 1600 plus Headers. Will have about $800.00 in plus a batt. & cable still to go. |
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 12, 2013 21:27:14 GMT -5
First of all I believe you when you say your not a VW engine type of guy.
Your gas line is way too long and that fuel pump is gonna have sum kinda fun pumpin back and forth to itself!
That filter in the dist cap should clean-up all the dirty electric current from the coil!
I bolted a spin off gas filter inside the rear wheel well just on the other side from the motor
and ran the gas line through the fiberglass in direct line to the fuel pump
you'll be better off than using those inline filters especially if that tank is flaking.
Good luck Skip it's looking purty!! Let's see a you tube of you driving that twoie around!!
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 13, 2013 5:40:36 GMT -5
I stress do not install the filter between the pump and carb. do not use a plastic filter near the engine, safety wire the fuel inlet into the carb and both ports into the pump. That bog rubber hose on the cooling shroud goes from the oil fill tower to the base of the air filter. The way it is it will blow your oil out around the crank pulley. If you are running heat then you need the intermediate connectors that wrap around the #2 #4 exhaust outlets and heat exchangers on cyl #1, #3. If no heat then do not block off the air outlets on the shroud. It disturbs the airflow going to the cylinders. Install the silver flex tubes and run them down to blow air onto the heads {when using J tubes} or connect to heat exchangers. Make sure the lower cyl covers are in place. Are the thermostat flaps installed? Vac hose on dist goes to port on drivers side of carb {not that port on manifold or rear of carb. Valve adj is .006 cold. Timing is 29 deg at 2000 with vac disconnected and plugged. Carb is adj using the 2 screws that are on the drivers side of the carb. Small screw is mixture, big is idle speed. The one on the throttle arm is just for high idle.
Post pic of pressure plate and inside trans bell housing as there are a few different combinations that get mixed up. Wrong combo equals big problems.
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Post by skip20 on Feb 13, 2013 8:19:45 GMT -5
I stress do not install the filter between the pump and carb. do not use a plastic filter near the engine, safety wire the fuel inlet into the carb and both ports into the pump. That bog rubber hose on the cooling shroud goes from the oil fill tower to the base of the air filter. The way it is it will blow your oil out around the crank pulley. If you are running heat then you need the intermediate connectors that wrap around the #2 #4 exhaust outlets and heat exchangers on cyl #1, #3. If no heat then do not block off the air outlets on the shroud. It disturbs the airflow going to the cylinders. Install the silver flex tubes and run them down to blow air onto the heads {when using J tubes} or connect to heat exchangers. Make sure the lower cyl covers are in place. Are the thermostat flaps installed? Vac hose on dist goes to port on drivers side of carb {not that port on manifold or rear of carb. Valve adj is .006 cold. Timing is 29 deg at 2000 with vac disconnected and plugged. Carb is adj using the 2 screws that are on the drivers side of the carb. Small screw is mixture, big is idle speed. The one on the throttle arm is just for high idle. Post pic of pressure plate and inside trans bell housing as there are a few different combinations that get mixed up. Wrong combo equals big problems. The filter goes before the pump I know. Heard there are 3 presurre plate, so took the bearing with me to the VW shop to get the correct one. Chrome air filter has the port for the hose, but the hose is short, may add a metal tube to it, Cost $8.00. Some parts are just sitting there to get them off the floor. Thanks for the info & I do what you say. Figured if I ran that 5.5' gas hose recirculating as it is, would get better milage without an HHO system on it. |
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Post by whcgt on Feb 13, 2013 18:58:14 GMT -5
Now, you need a Tweetie Bird sticker, for the cooling tin shroud.  |
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Post by jessieray on Feb 14, 2013 14:50:22 GMT -5
if you need a parts car,i have a bradley that the bodyis ruff could be repaired,some the glass is good, doors good,top headlight and other parts could be used. i can text pic 903-736-3585 i picked up the car for the rear end but not going to use it. if you need it make me a offer
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Post by skip20 on Feb 14, 2013 16:00:39 GMT -5
if you need a parts car,i have a bradley that the bodyis ruff could be repaired,some the glass is good, doors good,top headlight and other parts could be used. i can text pic 903-736-3585 i picked up the car for the rear end but not going to use it. if you need it make me a offer Windshild & door glass w/hardware to mount |
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Post by skip20 on Feb 14, 2013 16:59:25 GMT -5
Engine almost done, adjust vales, get gasket for heater boxes, Install S/P & wires.   Maybe put it in this weekend. No big rush!  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 14, 2013 20:50:07 GMT -5
BREATHER TUBE IS WRONG, CRANK CASE BREATHER IS WRONG, PUT A CLAMP ON THE THROTTLE CABLE TUBE ON THE CLUTCH SIDE SO THE TUBE STAYS PUT, aS YOU DO NOT HAVE THE JOINER PIECES ON YOUR 2/4 CYL EXH OUTLETS MAKE SURE THE COOLING SHROUD OUTLETS ARE JOINED TO THE HEATER BOX AIR INLETS. aIR FLOWS THROUGH THE BOXES AT ALL TIMES TO COOL OFF THE HEADS.I see you have the late style PP. so your tranny has a tube around the input shaft AND the release bearing has flat mounting tabs. Missing hose clamps on all fuel lines by the looks of it. Piower feeds coil then fuel cutoff sol then choke.
Sorry for the caps. mouse died and I am not retyping this.
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Post by skip20 on Feb 15, 2013 10:12:50 GMT -5
Not finisned yet, will redo breather tube, got new hose.
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Post by jessieray on Feb 15, 2013 12:34:45 GMT -5
jessieray my bradley is sold thank you all
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Post by skip20 on Feb 15, 2013 17:03:11 GMT -5
jessieray my bradley is sold thank you all Road Trip to TX this weekend. Bug engine is now finished! |
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Post by skip20 on Feb 18, 2013 14:02:16 GMT -5
Engine in, still some work to do, maybe start on Tuesday.  Will be sheet metaling the sides & back to close it off. Had to notch the rear pan to clear the ex tips. |
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Post by skip20 on Feb 21, 2013 6:43:31 GMT -5
Engine in & running.
Next the wiring. Nothing works but head light come on but not up.
Will be out of State Sun. - Fri. to rest up.
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Post by skip20 on Mar 4, 2013 6:57:22 GMT -5
Back home after road trip up to Williamsburg VA for a week.
Will be going under the knive again, Friday, so no work or play or 2 weeks.
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Post by Roodog on Mar 4, 2013 17:16:11 GMT -5
Hay skip I have the hho system on my jeep wrangler 4 cylinder. I built the system myself and it works great. I baught this jeep under the thought that because it was a 4 cylinder that I would get better gas econ. Not the case at all it gets the same as the 6 around 16 mpg. I set this thing up and it works great! It only produces when you are pushing the gas peddel for safety. I didn't want balls of flame to be coming out from under the hood. I'm getting still 16 in town but have lifted the millage to 22 on the highway at 70 mph. Did not help the power but is lots better on the open road.
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Post by skip20 on Mar 4, 2013 18:01:44 GMT -5
Hay skip I have the hho system on my jeep wrangler 4 cylinder. I built the system myself and it works great. I baught this jeep under the thought that because it was a 4 cylinder that I would get better gas econ. Not the case at all it gets the same as the 6 around 16 mpg. I set this thing up and it works great! It only produces when you are pushing the gas peddel for safety. I didn't want balls of flame to be coming out from under the hood. I'm getting still 16 in town but have lifted the millage to 22 on the highway at 70 mph. Did not help the power but is lots better on the open road. GEE, I heard that HHO was bull s**t & didn't work. Can't be done, improbable. Check new you tube on my 500 mile trip. There are 4 new ones. www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2VN3avWCTA |
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Post by Roodog on Mar 4, 2013 20:24:02 GMT -5
I made mine out of two mettle pancake flippers with neoprene washers between them and a gallon glass jar with a jim cap for plumbing on the top and a hose going to the breather box. I wired it directly to the throttle positioning censer. So when I am not putting my foot in it it is not producing any thing. It worked so well that I built one for my 2500 suburban. I have not got to take out my suburban yet but I think if I get the same results I will be happy!
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Mar 5, 2013 8:09:41 GMT -5
Surprised that even produces anything as the voltage supply to the tps is computer controlled at 5v. Three wire sensor is 5v reference, ground and roughly .5 to 4.5v output back to ecm. Sensors are sent a 5v reference to ensure they always have a stable voltage to function properly. Typical sensor wiring By connecting to the tps in the way you describe you would have to be using the ground and the output back to the ecm. As this delivers less than the reference voltage, your gas prod would be even less. You are also creating a parallel circuit with the sensor signal return and the sensor ground. Should the added circuit begin to conduct through the water, your tps vales will be wrong and if too far off will set an engine code. Should they short together there is a good chance that you will fry the tps and/or wiring and possible damage the ecm. Skip, your increase in mileage you are showing is more than likely a result of the reprogramming and not the hho. Here is a simple explanation that I found re the volume of hydrogen one would require, reviews.ebay.ca/Hydrogen-Generator-Economy-Device-SCAMS?ugid=10000000005261775Also there is a good chance that your ecm will detect the higher o2 readings and in short time will make adjustments in your air fuel ratio by adding more fuel to bring the readings back to normal thus reducing any improvements the hho may or may not have made. Bottom line is with all the systems out there and people trying to take advantage of the possiblility if fuel savings, don't you think the auto makers would be looking into this as either an option or as standard equipment to reduce the fuel consumption of their vehicles? They use fuel mileage as a key factor to improving sales. Gasoline is a finite resource and at the rate we use it, it will not be long before it is all gone. Thus putting an end to the production of the gasoline powered automobile, and the auto makers, unless a good alternative is found. Anyway back on topic. How is Bradley #3 coming along. Did you get the engine running? Wiring complete yet? |
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