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Post by jspbtown on Nov 21, 2011 9:25:39 GMT -5
Old style switch should really only have 3 wires in play. Power coming in from the flasher is 1 wire. The other two would be power going out to the blinkers.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 20, 2011 9:37:58 GMT -5
Donnie,
This is the post that confused me:
"Todays problem. I wired up the turn signals and turning them on left or right they act lick hazards. All the lights are flashing at once. I do have a hazard switch hooked up. Even more bizarre is when I turn on my headlights as the turn signals are on, the turn signals shut off. "
In it you said you had a hazard switch. Thats why I was confused.
Sounds like it might be your blinker switch. Something is feeding all 4 of your blinkers. Power should go to your flasher, then from your flasher to the switch, then 1 wire from the switch for your two left blinkers and 1 wire for your two left.
Are your front lights both blinkers and parking lights? You could also possibly have a ground messed up. If you are using a common ground wire for the lights maybe you have that attached to a power source?
Electrical issues are really hard. My philosophy is to "follow the electrons". In this case I would first make sure that all 4 lights involved have good grounds. I would then make sure your blinker switch is wired correctly. Do you have a newer (rectangular) style or the old round style?
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 19, 2011 19:36:29 GMT -5
One post says you have hazards wired and the next says no hazard switch.
Did you split the rear lights up so all 4 are for the parking lights, 2 are for brakes, and 2 are for turn?
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 19, 2011 10:46:15 GMT -5
What are you using for switches for your headlights, flasher, and blinkers?
How do you have them wired? Are you using 1 flasher or 2?
It does sound like a ground problem ( they light because they are pulling a ground from a normally neutral wire....do they appear dim?), but without knowing how you have them wired...especially the flashers..its hard to diagnose
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 17, 2011 13:25:22 GMT -5
Wheel cylinders frozen? Improper adjustment?
Bad wiring....I know your pain. on my "perfectly" wired Avenger dash I wired 3 gauges incorrectly. I swapped the grounds and the senders. I was wondering why my tank was always empty and I had no oil pressure...duh!
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 17, 2011 12:12:41 GMT -5
Get some kads. They will work well and give you good power. Or some small Dells or baby webers.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 17, 2011 9:46:59 GMT -5
Failed switches are very common. Even if they are new. I would check for power at the switch first. Then, since you really can't "press the switch" (it senses hydraulic pressure) I would have someone press the brakes and check for out put of power on the other tab.
Do you have two switches on the master cylinder? if so then try the other one. You really don't have to use two unless you are using the warning light (most people don't).
Of course it could related to the no brakes either. if your not building pressure the switch won't work. Whats wrong with your brakes?
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 11, 2011 12:44:10 GMT -5
"to be acceptable for you to break your arm while patting yourself on the back, though"
Huh?
whcgt...I must admit that I am often confused by your posts. When you posted on The Samba I was confused and since you have made your way here I am confused.
For me its not about money or pursuing my "ambitions". I am not rich. I work at a job that feeds my family, keeps them warm and can hopefully get a good education for my son. My work with kits is a hobby. I don't spend time searching the internet for bizarre one off kits. I don't fantasize about one day designing kits. And I really don't care about your failed deal with your kit.
I work, I go home, I watch my son's sports and if I have some time or energy I go out to my garage (my small garage thats fillthy and not chock full of tools) so I can keep my mind from focusing on the mundane thoughts of life.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 11, 2011 10:22:03 GMT -5
Yup...the hobby is full of big dreamers with more imaginationsthen money. Its also littered with the hacked up remnants of those same people.
I am consistantly amazed and the number of people who scoop up kits with such grand intentions and who were never really even capable of building the kit as it was intentionally designed. Despite having 9 kits under my belt I am still extremely hestitant to deviate too far from the original design.
Although I must say with the Aztec 7 I am considering it. Hopefully I will come to my senses when it comes time to restore it!
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 10, 2011 14:54:21 GMT -5
whcgt...your estimations are highly inflated. Your apparent facination with low production skews your understanding of their value.
If it is true that the Femat only produced 1 car it was probably cause it was butt ugly. Why would anyone pay $3500 on molds to produce something as ugly as that car?
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 10, 2011 10:07:30 GMT -5
I think the kit car industry has evolved, and as part of that evolution the demand from the consumer has made the industry raise the bar in design and construction.
There are certain kits that can still thrive. I am thinking the Factory Five Cobras, the Porsche Speedsters, & Dunebuggies.
Dunebuggies have expected limitations regarding handling and such and are cheap so I think there is a solid market for them.
The Speedsters and Cobras are really well engineered open style roadsters. They don't need air conditioning, they don't need big stereos. They are bought or built for the driving experience alone.
What made exotic styled kits that are pan based so desireable in the past was the look and the price. I don't think that is enough anymore. Fancy styling with 60 hp isn't going to win the race. And once you start getting into custom frames and drivetrains the price gets so high you start competing with a quality used Corvette that has all the amenities.
For my little hobby I am sticking with dunebuggies after I finish my Aztec 7. They are cheap, plentiful, and you can build them from basic to wild in a short period of time. Plus I think there is a good market for them.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 7, 2011 15:22:38 GMT -5
I too like building them more than drawing them. Of course I can't draw.
I do need to get that Avenger running right (new carb and dizzy on my counter) but we just got the power back and soccer play-offs are this week. Maybe this weekend!
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 7, 2011 9:40:57 GMT -5
Looks more like a modified Aztec GT
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 4, 2011 13:25:16 GMT -5
Power is back! Good thing my wife stopped in...our toaster oven was still on and unattended.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 4, 2011 11:16:43 GMT -5
Heading into day 7 with no changes other than we now have cell service. i would much rather have had heat or water but at least its something.
The tubs are running out of water and so is the hot water heater (not really a heater now...more like a water container). if we don't get it back this weekend we will have to move somewhere.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 3, 2011 15:09:46 GMT -5
In a word...nope. Can't tell you what makes it worth that much.
It is rare though. Much more rare then a Kelmark, or a Bradley, or a Sterling. I have only seen a handful ever for sale. It is on my short list to build.
Would I pay $7k for it? Nope. Then again I am cheap.
Will someone else? Maybe....you never know unless you ask.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 3, 2011 11:55:59 GMT -5
Sliders from Speedway are a very good option.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 3, 2011 8:50:28 GMT -5
No laptop....just some free time at work. I live in Western Mass and work in Central Mass. No real issues with power or internet at the office.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 3, 2011 8:49:36 GMT -5
Rick owns that car. I think he got that in Texas and had it shipped to him in PA. He also owns at least 1 very nice Sterling.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 2, 2011 12:55:00 GMT -5
Good thought! Might try that tonight. We just need to be a little conservative with our propane consumption.
This is our most recent update:
"“The report that I’m getting back is that there is more damage than was originally thought. I’ve authorized work crews to work through the weekend so we can try to get the roads up for bussing by Monday at the earliest,” said Williams.
Williams also explained that one of the two National Grid line crews was pulled out of Belchertown last night.
“One of the line crews was pulled out of Belchertown to head to Hardwick. Their police station generator went down,” said Williams. Only one line crew in Belchertown is working to restore power to the 6th largest town in the Commonwealth four days after the storm that left the entire community powerless.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 2, 2011 10:04:32 GMT -5
No water in the pipes to freeze! I have been draining the hot water heater for fresh water. The basement (since its underground) stays relatively stable regarding temperature.
Day time temps are expected to rise to the low 50's so we might be opening the windows to warm up the house!
The inside of the fridge is actually warmer than the house!
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 2, 2011 9:22:35 GMT -5
Day 4 with no power, no water and no cell phone service.
Inside house temp has dropped to 42 overnight. Bathrooms are really cold with the snow trying to melt in the tubs.
We have been going to my sister-in-laws for hot meals and showers.
Hoping to maybe see power on Friday morning.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 31, 2011 15:20:21 GMT -5
It wasn't the volume of snow, it was that it was heavy and we had lots of leaves still on the trees.
We got about 12" of snow. Thats nothing. But because the leaves were still on all the trees the snow clung to them and snapped them like crazy. I had a 40 foot oak that snapped about 1/2 way up.
If I drive 20 minutes from my house I will see at least 100 trees down in that time frame. Most 2 lane roads are now single lanes that you snake your way through. In one section of town a tree fell across a two lane state highway and it was probably 15 feet tall when laying on its side. People actually went in and cut a tunnel through the tree to allow 1 car at a time to get through.
And that was on Sunday late afternoon...meaning there was about 20 hours that had passed and no one even got close to getting it off the road. We litterally have hundreds and hundreds of trees down on wires in my small town of 15k people.
We still have about 350,000 people without power...and thats primarily in small residential communities.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 31, 2011 14:33:55 GMT -5
This d**n winter storm really sucks.
We have no power, no cable, no cell phones (towers down), no heat (it was 42 today and will be 20 tonight) and no water.
Both our bathroom tubs are filled with snow trying to get it to melt so we can have an occasional flush. Of course that makes the bathrooms cold as hell. We are boiliing snow (our gas stove works) to get clean water. Bottled water is scarce because everyone else is in the same situation.
My shower today consisted of going outside and getting a pan full of snow, boiling it, bringing it into my bathrrom where I added snow from the tub until it cooled and then pouring that over my head. All of this in a 50 degree bathroom.
No change until Friday morning is expected.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 27, 2011 17:10:16 GMT -5
You checked both sides for your axles? Does it stop when you apply the brakes lightly?
Other ideas: Worn/broken/loose tranny mounts? Loose wheel adapter?
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 21, 2011 8:25:45 GMT -5
I really liked these ARE 398s that I put on the Avenger. 16x8 (or maybe 9) with 245 50 16 tires. The front has an old scholl Select-a-drop and I didn't have to adjust the rear yet. Its a little high in this picture but there was no motor in it. It might be a little low with the motor...I am not sure yet.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 17, 2011 18:18:05 GMT -5
Foot mounted dimmer switch is the easiest solution of any. Power in, power out to hi & lo beams.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 17, 2011 9:46:22 GMT -5
Some VWs use a relay for the dimmer. I assume it would need power to operate. Maybe that is what it is for.
You can always trace the wire and see what it does to (like the fuse block?) and have it available for another circuit if you like.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 16, 2011 21:28:01 GMT -5
Lets see.... On the switch: Terminal 30 will be your power supply. Usually its an non-keyed (meaning power is on all the time regardless of key position). From what you describe that would be your yellow wire. Terminal 58 would go to your tail lights, thus the brown wire. Don't forget to run a wire from the high beam wire back to the dash to light up your high beam indicator. Terminal 57 for your front directionals therefore your other brown wire. Terminal 56 would go to your hi/lo beam selector (are you using a stock ve foot switch?) Terminal 58b would go to your brown dash light wire. The light green and tan wires would run from your headlights to your hi/lo beam selector. Not sure what the blue dimmer power wire would be but it could be used to power a relay if you were using one. For the wipers it depends on the motor you are using. Generally its power into the switch and then two wires out for the speed control. Depending on your motor type this little schematic may help:
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 15, 2011 9:27:23 GMT -5
Its all about rim size, offset and tire diameter. I would take a look at what you have and decide what you don't like.
For instance...how is the overall width? Does it fill the well? To wide? Not wide enough? If you take the tire size and go to tirerack you can get the specs on the tire for its width & height. You can then decide how wide of a tire you want. remember...a tire that is 1" narrower will be 1/2" narrower on each side.
For height (and more importantly is how they fit in the well left to right) how does that fit? Does it hit the fender lip when you turn it (or when the rear goes through its limited suspension movement)?
Last is offset. How does the rim fit in regards to hitting the control arm? Or extending past the fender lip? Do you want them to tuck in more or stick out more? Using what you have will allow you to decide what you want.
Another bit of wisdom is don't go too low profile on your tires. Too stiff of a sidewall will make the car ride even worse. A larger sidewall with the pressure down will smooth the ride out considerably.
I would rather use a 15" rim with a 60 series tire then a 19" rim with a 40 series tire.
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