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Post by jspbtown on Sept 12, 2011 9:40:21 GMT -5
Mechanical tach? Are you sure? It has a cable running out of the back?
If it electric I would assume the +6 is for 6 volt systems maybe (especially if it is a vintage style tach...so don't use it) and the 1 would go to the negative side of the ignition coil.
Oh...I may have ne just like that in my shop. Not 100% perfect but probably an exact replica. If your interested I could check and see. $40 shipped to you.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 12, 2011 8:38:23 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 9, 2011 13:19:44 GMT -5
That should be about it. Some wires will need to be unplugged. Maybe a master cylinder reservoir if mounted to the body. And if there are any support tubes up front, those will have to be disconnected.
I think thats about it.
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offers?
Sept 8, 2011 17:39:06 GMT -5
Post by jspbtown on Sept 8, 2011 17:39:06 GMT -5
Just my opinion but $5500 is pretty steep. You can usually get a nice driver for that price.
I wish you luck.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 6, 2011 21:17:26 GMT -5
The center section (near the 3 bolt flange) will stick out as far as the twin chrome pipes.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 6, 2011 21:16:28 GMT -5
Much, much, much easier to have two act as turn signals, two act as brake lights, and all 4 as your parking lights.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 6, 2011 21:14:59 GMT -5
Definitely go autostick. Very cheap at your local Advanced Auto Parts store.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 5, 2011 18:46:46 GMT -5
You would be amazed at how tough those old engines are. Every single one I have torn into had the same nests in it. You may be able to helicoil the plug hole, or just pick up a new head. Drill and tap the exhaust studs out (or if there is some stud left then weld a nut to it...I just did that this weekend)....and away you go.
I am tearing into a old motor I had for my Avenger project. They clean up pretty quickly.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 5, 2011 13:47:46 GMT -5
It is very difficult to cut a true automotive windshield.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 3, 2011 22:00:20 GMT -5
Your using the stock seats right? I think they are perfect.
The poster said he was going to use "Ricardo" seats. I assume he meant Recaro...and those will likely be too tall and too wide. And if they fit width wise they will have to be reclined at such a silly angle they will be very uncomfortable.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 3, 2011 18:08:01 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 2, 2011 22:50:45 GMT -5
They will likely be too tall and too wide.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 1, 2011 10:37:59 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 31, 2011 18:18:33 GMT -5
The design is not failed...its the application! In its standard use (pinto, etc) its very easy to adjust it. Its when we use them on the VW's that it gets funky.
How's your float level and valve adjustment?
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 30, 2011 8:13:09 GMT -5
You mean this?: I don't know...I kinda liked it. It totally eliminated visability. It was very heavy too.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 29, 2011 18:59:02 GMT -5
Thats a funky flywheel on that motor. Want to post the serial number? Its an old single port but I have never seen a Flywheel with holes in it.
Seats look decent...I would keep them.
I would also fuse the top to the lower section (I do kinda like it that way...)
Nice start...I have seen alot worse.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 29, 2011 14:50:00 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 29, 2011 12:36:42 GMT -5
Clearly one of the ugliest kits ever produced.
I would never restore one.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 28, 2011 22:15:05 GMT -5
I used a key/lock combo from Home Depot, some flat aluminum stock and some 1" aluminum angle. Clean and functional.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 26, 2011 11:16:44 GMT -5
Build it first, just the way as designed, then come and ask the same question. or Take the money you are going to spend on doing this ($5k? $10k?) put it in a solid mutual fund and come back and thank me later.
Seriously...custom chassis, custom cooling, custom interior, custom body work, custom suspension & steering, custom drivetrain, custom electronics.
Can you do all of that?
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 26, 2011 11:02:55 GMT -5
no no no.....
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 25, 2011 21:01:28 GMT -5
I would recommend the mirrors be one of the last things you add. Sit in the car and see where you can actually see them from. Based on the design there is really few places that work. The way I placed them was less than optimal. Also, watch for door clearances.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 25, 2011 12:45:59 GMT -5
I would replace the connector at the tranny as well. They are cheap and not something you want to go back into after your done. Thye make some nice heavy duty ones.
Spend some time really cleaning the shift rod. Almost polish it. The extra time you spend with it out cleaning it will make putting it back so much easier.
Get a quality bushing. Some of the new China stuff is real bad.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 25, 2011 12:29:09 GMT -5
Yup..thats the bushing retainer ring and I think I can see some of the bushing. No fun to replace that sucker! I always replace them when rebuilding my pans while the body is off.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 25, 2011 8:26:52 GMT -5
Got the mirrors on last night. Needed my wife to sit in the car (I don't fit) to help me with the positioning. They look great. They are Vitaloni Californian knock offs. Gloss black and really kinda nice.
I also got the rest of the conduit on, the rear stubs torqued and cotter pinned, and the rear 914 calipers adjusted (yes...you can adjust the rear calipers). I just need a couple of metric screws for the rear center caps and it will be basically done (just motor work).
I am hoping to sneak it out of my shop for a photo session on Saturday before the storm comes barreling through. My son is not happy about losing his attached garage parking spot but I need to get it out of the shop for some body work I need to do on my nephews Mazda before he heads out to college.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 24, 2011 9:12:02 GMT -5
Looks like my lawn might get some rain this weekend in lovely Massachusetts.
Good weekend to put the final touches on the Avenger.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 22, 2011 14:00:35 GMT -5
Do you still have the plate on it? I don't think you need the plated with a reverse lock out shifter. I would also add a washer under each bolt.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 22, 2011 13:43:28 GMT -5
The older style switches and columns are real easy to work for the turn signals...basically 3 wires. Power comes in from the flasher unit and then one wires for the right and one wire for the left. When it gets that basic it keeps things simple.
For the flasher I incorporate a relay and a simple on/off switch.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 22, 2011 12:27:07 GMT -5
Thanks for the nice words. I have had some interest but nothing yet. I will get the mirrors on it this week, install the center caps, add the final bit of conduit over some wires and drag it out for a real picture taking session in the sunlight. Then most likely EBAY.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 21, 2011 9:03:48 GMT -5
I think those who complete any kit have really achieved a substantial goal. So "yes"...I think a completed bradley (or other kit) is rare.
Just read the forums...how many abandoned projects (both bought and sold) do you see?
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