|
Post by jspbtown on Jan 17, 2023 17:21:43 GMT -5
I used composite decking. Covered it with Herculiner. Nothing could have been easier. Gave more knee room, more headroom. With almost no mods required.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jan 14, 2023 17:43:27 GMT -5
3" body lift made from composite decking material. Easy to shape, won't rot, doesn't reduce ground clearance.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jan 8, 2023 18:14:08 GMT -5
Linear actuators were not as easily available when I was building kits so I don't have first hand knowledge as I did not use them on the GTII or the GT I built. I mean 50-100lbs should be more than enough. On the GTII its all set up for one. Just measure the travel from full closed to fully open. Get one with that amount of travel. Then mount it to an appropriate place...like near where that stupid motor and limit switches was mounted. Use the three way switch. Most actuators have either built in, or adjustable limit switches. I mean its a super simple upgrade.
I used them on an Avenger replica I built for both the front and read hatches.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Nov 11, 2022 11:29:36 GMT -5
Not sure if there is one.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jul 5, 2022 16:24:10 GMT -5
Several speedo repair businesses on the internet. Ship it out, have it rebuilt.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jul 5, 2022 16:23:10 GMT -5
Two things....
One, I believe the original headlight motor is a wiper motor from a van like UPS uses. Its really under powered for the task.
Two....use a linear actuator. MUCH easier to set up. Built in limit switches, stronger.....just a better set up all the way around.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Apr 13, 2022 17:11:07 GMT -5
Not a lot of choices .....
Could be:
1. The wire for the electric choke 2. The wire from the key to the ignition coil 3. The wire to the electronic module (if applicable)
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jan 29, 2022 11:10:24 GMT -5
Yo do know that post was from 8 years ago right?
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jan 29, 2022 11:09:50 GMT -5
You do know that post was from 10 years ago right?
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jan 10, 2022 10:59:30 GMT -5
Going off memory here since it has been forever since I built a kit but I believe the single handle operates both flappers. The second handle was designed to divert air within the passenger compartment.
So one handle has two cables on it going to the flappers. Pull the handle and both flappers operate. The other handle is not used as Bradley did not offer a system to divert air within the passenger compartment.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Nov 23, 2021 12:21:49 GMT -5
Last year the mice got into my vette so bad it took me weeks and weeks to get the smell out. Apparently Bounce dryre sheets are pretty effective so I am going to try them.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Nov 18, 2021 11:24:14 GMT -5
I would start by looking up kits that fit VW motors. It will require lots of mods but what doesn't in a kit car right?
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Oct 2, 2021 8:56:42 GMT -5
A location always helps.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Sept 23, 2021 7:45:08 GMT -5
There is always the Ebay, CraigsList, Facebook Marketplace suggestions.
There are tons of EV forums you could try as well.
I am not sure what you are asking for price wise but you should realize that low production does not always equal desirable or expensive. I would think an unfinished electric Bradley GT2 might be in the $1000-$1500 range.
And it matters what two parts are missing. Is the windshield one of them?
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Aug 31, 2021 8:24:47 GMT -5
Great question. I am trying to remember...the GTII tank is just a rectangular box right? If so then a universal styled sender will work. You just need the right ohm rage as you referenced. Any part numbers on the old sender? Or how about the gauge? If the old one is working you can measure the ohm range by cycling the sending from empty to full and using an ohm meter. www.youtube.com/watch?v=yU1BDBZWl8AAccording to a prior post by Gary Hammond the original fuel gauge supplied by Bradley was a 10-180 ohm VDO with a 10-180 ohm sending unit. Then again mrbigh said he ordered a 2"40-30 Ohms and adjustable in length, this is the key information for the GT II replacement part". So it looks like you need to get some part numbers or at least test what you have
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Aug 20, 2021 8:14:01 GMT -5
Well....if the motor is built to a larger cc (1776 , 1835, 2054?), maybe has dual carbs and a nice exhaust it might be worth $1500.
Then again it hasn't run in 10 years so who knows if the rings are rusted to the barrels, the carb (or carbs) would clearly need a full rebuild at least, the oil pump would also likely need to be rebuilt or replaced as well. And of course who knows about the other seals which have been dry for a decade.
The old guy likely told you it was worth $1500 because he was trying to sell you he car......
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Aug 19, 2021 9:27:04 GMT -5
I can't see the image so I really can't comment. If its GT then maybe $750-$1000. If you don't have the talent to do any of the repairs (body work, paint, interior work) then the cost to make it road worthy will far exceed the value of the car even after restoration.
IF it is a GT then you should know the doors are essentially unavailable
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Aug 16, 2021 8:07:09 GMT -5
PM Jeff Troy
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Aug 7, 2021 9:25:37 GMT -5
"I wonder if the body would fit on a spitfire frame"
Anything fits on anything with enough fabrication. Trust me...you would lose interest in it long before you came close to finishing it.
Since you don't seem that committed your best bet is to separate it, clean it, and sell it off in pieces.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Aug 6, 2021 8:48:00 GMT -5
Most likely a marine website
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Aug 4, 2021 18:07:15 GMT -5
What you are suggesting is illegal and could result in the forfeiture of the vehicle.
There are other, legal, ways to get a title.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jun 25, 2021 12:46:17 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jun 16, 2021 12:02:38 GMT -5
The wider the front tire the more difficult it is to steer
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jun 16, 2021 12:02:03 GMT -5
Gotta drop the engine
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jun 12, 2021 8:01:00 GMT -5
I wish I remember the sizes I bought when I built the GT so many years ago. One thing I can tell you is that there is not as much space for width as you might think. You need a tall tire or rim to fill the wheel opening but the actual space you have is not that big.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on May 11, 2021 10:07:51 GMT -5
Sure. Here are some tips.
1. Its not a "corvette body"...its either a Bradley GT or a Bradley GTII. You need to identify which one it is. 2. It is very likely on a VW pan (ie: "frame") and has a VW motor. A worn and seized VW motor is worth essentially nothing. A high performance, good running VW engine can be worth thousands of dollars. 3. You can list it here. You can list it on a forum called The Samba. You can list it on EBAY. You can list it on Facebook Marketplace. You can list it on Craigslist 4. The value will depend on what you have. If its trashed (ie: poor paint, cracks in the body, no interior, seized motor, etc) then it might be worth a couple of hundred dollars. If it is in pristine condition with a good motor, nice paint, nice interior it might be worth say $5000.00. If it is a GTII and has a bad windshield that will negatively impact the value. If it is a GT and has good plexiglass doors and rear window that would help the value.
Pictures of the car, including interior, exterior, and the engine would help a lot in determining value.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on May 10, 2021 9:17:16 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on May 3, 2021 9:36:41 GMT -5
Bradleys respond well to body lifts. I lifted the one I built about 3". Factory Bradley seats with sliders are the best. They are laid back and have the correct upright head rests built in.
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on May 3, 2021 9:34:40 GMT -5
The stock tank is rectangular. Just take some measurements and use large L brackets and straps.
I might have a couple of headlight covers...let me check my shop
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Apr 7, 2021 13:27:36 GMT -5
Well its worth what someone will pay for it right? A lot depends on the location and the market. My guess is it might be worth $3000-$5500. That would depend on the condition & build quality of course. It would also depend on the title status as well.
You can post a free ad on The Samba, an ad on CraigsList, an ad on Facebook Marketplace, an ad on BradleyGT.com, or even sell it on EBAY.
|
|