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Post by jspbtown on Dec 21, 2011 12:50:45 GMT -5
You do realize they are about $500 a pair right?
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 21, 2011 11:17:02 GMT -5
Choke won't "click" if you disconnect them..they are a metal winding and are essentially noise free.
My explanation for the vacuum leaks is this: When you start the car the choke plate valve slams shut and "x" amount (very low) of air gets by the choke plate. Normally this richens the mixture so the car can run. If you have a big air leak your mixture actually leans out to where it should be, so the car runs fine. As the choke plate slowly opens you allow more air to get in. When its wide open it is calibrated to allow just the right amount of air in to mix with the fuel for combustion. However, with the vacuum leak that is now off balance. More air is entering the intake stream and the fuel (which was correct for the amount of air coming in through the top but not with the additional air coming in from the leak) mixture becomes very lean and the car dies.
Old gas can surely be an issue. I remember my brother in law brought me his leaf blower cause it ran terribly. I drained it, cleaned it, looked for an issue and couldn't find anything so I put in a little new gas/oil mix and it ran great. I gave it back to him and he filled it up with old gas and it stopped running. He of course complained and gave it back to me. It wasn't until he used his neighbors leaf blower with his gas did he realize it was bad gas.
However, the fact that you can run the car but slightly covering the intake area of the carb leads me to vacuum leak. Like Gary said, maybe not throttle shafts. Maybe a torn gasket during rebuild.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 20, 2011 21:44:32 GMT -5
Propane torch, turn it on a little, DON"T LIGHT, and pass it near the throttle shaft (while you keep it running). If the idle smooths or picks up I bet leaking throttle shafts.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 20, 2011 13:49:12 GMT -5
That can make me think vacuum leak as well. Take the air cleaner off and when it starts to dies partially cover the top of the carb. What you are trying to reduce is the airflow into the carb to compensate for the vacuum leak.
When the choke is closed it is limiting airflow so the vacuum leak isn't that bad. As soon as it opens you go way lean. If you can manipulate your hand to cover some, but not all, of the opening and it continues to run then you might have a big vacuum leak.
Those carbs are notorious for big leaks along the throttle shafts. A little un-lit propane around the shafts while listening for an rpm increase may help you diagnosis.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 19, 2011 20:48:30 GMT -5
Rebel makes a good kit.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 15, 2011 15:55:23 GMT -5
Bad coil?
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 13, 2011 19:04:22 GMT -5
Another "grand plan" car going to the dump.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 13, 2011 9:23:02 GMT -5
Nothing will fit without major, major modifications.
With that in mind you can take some measurements and go look for something that has a frame (versus a uni-body) and is close to the wheelbase and track.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 12, 2011 15:40:54 GMT -5
I am selling my Aztec 7 kit car project. I have come to the conclusion that these full size kits aren't what my time allows. This is a very clean Aztec 7 project car. I would almost consider it a true "barn find". They are exceptionally rare. You would have to look long and hard find another. It is VW based. It is an easy father/son winter project. It is a complete car less engine and transmission, although I will include a single port motor for rebuilding with the $3000 price. You will need to supply a tranny. It has all the glass, including the VERY hard to find Muira windshield (windshield is worth the $3000 price alone) which is bubble wrapped in my walk in closet in my bedroom. It has the gauges, the overhead console, the wiring, the tank, the steering, etc etc. The tires may need to be replaced due to age. It is a very unique and very rare car. The interior, while needing just a good cleaning, is in very good condition. it is also set up for Air Conditioning. The discoloration you see on the body is from tape used during the shipping process. The gelcoat on the body may be buffed out. Quick sale before the winter comes. $3000 with the SP engine. For an extra $250 I will include a case which has been bored, heads, and all the high performance goodies that came with this dis-assembled motor. If your interested I can get more details on the disassembled motor. I do have a valid NJ title for the car and all receipts, manuals, documents, etc. If you want to build something thats easy to do, is totally unique, and affordable this is your chance!
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 12, 2011 15:20:41 GMT -5
Well its all wrapped up. Put some fogger into the cylinders and carb and sprayed everything I could for its long winters nap.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 8, 2011 9:10:02 GMT -5
$369 plus shipping for some small sheet metal pans seems outrageous. print out a picture, take some measurements, and go to your local sheet metal fab place and save a boatload of money.
Sterling Sports Cars prices are outrageous.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 6, 2011 17:38:29 GMT -5
So probably $240 (2 hours each seat?) in labor to recover, plus the cost to ship them to MrStitch and back ($200?) plus the cost of the covers $400, plus the cost of some local beat seats ($150). Getting close to $1000 for a pair of seats. I bet the guy who got his seats for the Brad I built didn't pay that amount...and they have the better head support.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 6, 2011 10:26:01 GMT -5
What is the cost for those recovers?
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 5, 2011 18:23:43 GMT -5
I used them in my Sterling years and years ago.
Not a terrible option but very uncomfortable and terrible head support. They are so laid back that your neck gets tired holding your head vertical. The seat covers fit poorly to.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 5, 2011 14:47:28 GMT -5
Didn't catch the electric referrence the first time through. So my normal comments on reducing tire pressure may not apply. I would also check your pitman arm to make sure it is snug. An alignment would be my first move though. Alignment Specs (Courtesy of Dan): www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=206764
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 3, 2011 20:49:47 GMT -5
Actually its not a Meyers SR.....its from Heartland (so I guess a "knock-off). Meyers never produced a square headlight version...only round. The square version of the Heartland was an option.
This was one of the "must do" for me. It will be for sale when done. Just something else I wanted to accomplish. Its small and much more managable for me.
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 3, 2011 18:10:19 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 2, 2011 18:05:52 GMT -5
Matt,
I have never added weight to any of my cars so I can't help there, however I have to ask if the car has been lowered? If so do you have castor shims?
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 30, 2011 11:08:38 GMT -5
Whcgt,
Thanks for the offer through the PM.
Nothing personal but you can't make this project work. I don't have time to call you to convince you of all the reasons why it won't work. I know you got smoked on your last kit deal, and unfortunately your going to spend a bunch more money on this dream needlessly. Your not going to make it work. I know this sounds harsh, but its reality.
You have not thought through the process well enough nor do you have an understanding of the platform you are working on. Clearly since you can't afford the $1000 for the car all at once you don't have the significant resources it will take to even consider making this conversion work.
I understand dreams. I understand dreaming of doing wonderful things. When I was a kid I dreamt of making a submarine out of a large propane tank. I did neat drawings like you did on your Invader. It all seemed to make sense to my 10 year old brain at the time. Thank God I didn't have the money to blow on such a silly project then. Your taking money that you can do so much more with and your flushing it down the toilet.
But hey...its America. Go for it. Keep us all posted. Show us your progress. Dosument the build as you go along. Prove me totally wrong and I will make a full apology to you for all to see.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 29, 2011 16:56:27 GMT -5
Thats your problem...there is no pan. None. Nothing that even resembles that of a Beetle.
The shocks mount to the inner body panels. Panels that you plan to cut away. Where will you mount your shocks? The suspension mounting points gain some of their strengths from the panels which you plan to cut away (windshield frame, rear targa mount, front inner fenders, rear inner panels, front and rear bulkheads).
When you cut all that away you have nothing left to support the engine, transmission or suspension other then some unsupported flimsy sheetmetal..
You really should research this before you piss away any more money.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 29, 2011 16:28:58 GMT -5
So you have two windshields or at least 2 windshield frames? And the upper rear targa support on the 914 is just molded into the rear pillar on the Invader? they are that close in angle?
I know how to modify the fiberglass body...thats easy. I am talking about mating the 914 to the Invader body.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 29, 2011 15:57:56 GMT -5
So you cut the windshield off? Cut the rear targo loop off too? Cut off the rear fenders? Trash the doors too I assume? Then do you bond the body to the remaining platform and then strengthen?
Or do you strengthen first so that the body doesn't get tweaked when you cut away all the structure.
Do you use the 914 dash set up of the Invader dash? What about the firewall? The 914 firewall and cut of the Invaders or use the invaders and cut out the 914 (with proper strengthening I assume?)?
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 29, 2011 15:33:35 GMT -5
Not only hard work, but engineering as well. Hopefully you have some background in design so you can build the appropriate subframe for the Porsche. Would hate to see it fold up on you.
Oh...one other question whcgt...I notice in your picture the front wheels seem to be offset in the wheel wells. Will you correct that as well when you mate the body to the 914? If so it might be more than just the couple of inches you initially thought.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 29, 2011 14:20:11 GMT -5
Looks like alot of filler on that hood. Are you sure it wasn't wrecked? If all it needs is a tune up and some fluid flushes then why is it in a bone yard?
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 29, 2011 9:29:20 GMT -5
You can't "remove the body" from a 914. As you stated it is a unibody. You can remove the front fenders, but just about anything else you will need to have to cut off, and therefore significantly weaken the structure. You will then have to significantly modify the frame structure to strengthen it for what you have removed.
So a plan to use a 914 platform would require significant mods to the 914 and the Invader. Not really worth it since the 914 engibe can be mounted to a VW pan.
And if you went Subie or Rotary where have you engineered the cooling system to be placed?
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 28, 2011 18:22:15 GMT -5
I only used two...on the side that raises the cylinders. If your are like mine I assume that would be the lower supply lines.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 28, 2011 15:01:34 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 28, 2011 12:20:09 GMT -5
Skip, I had that same problem with the cylinders I used for my Sterling top. I used a 1 way solenoid valve used on the lifting side and wired into the switch so it opened whenever I activated the switch (up or down). The problem I had was the cylinders themselves would have some leakage so the top would very slowly migrate downward. Your hatches are probably alot lighter so you might not have this problem. For my Avenger I used electric actuators and had zero problems.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 22, 2011 9:10:28 GMT -5
You never know what you can catch until you toss out a line......
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 21, 2011 16:13:54 GMT -5
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