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Post by cocacoladodge on Jun 3, 2012 1:40:49 GMT -5
Its good to see my Bradley family having fun. the weather up here in S.W. Michican was cold and rainy the past few days. How was it down there? Did anyone make any good finds at the swapmeet area? I read somewhere there were tents where people did dynotesting, airbrushing, motor/trans repair and soupping up. It may have been in a midamericamotorworks email or on thesamba where I read that, sounds and looks like a lot of fun just to watch what all was going on. Everyone enjoy the remainder of your time there, and safe travels back home.
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 29, 2012 17:06:41 GMT -5
I have these cool little 2" or so cirular vents in the gull wing that you can rotate to adjust how much air comes in. Under the dash by where your feet are I have two large circular 6" vents that you can close off ( one for each side ). Also the rear window towards the top has a 4 or 5" hole with a low profile scoop with the opening facing the rear (and downward) to keep well ventalated and not too much airpressure on the parts... send me your email address and I'll send pics if you like.
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 28, 2012 11:07:22 GMT -5
If you are looking for value to buy or sell it, I would say base price of $2000-$2500, and then depending on what type motor you are running add on another 250-1000. Just a bare stock engine case is 500, the jugs are about 200, Heads between 150 and 850 each, then add on your generator/alt., fuelsystem, ect. Depending on how you play your cards, you could basically sell the complete bradley for less than the value of the engine. If you are looking to buy, you are getting a deal on the engine and the car is free. I'm not saying to part the motor out, I'm saying look at the big picture, what all is included in what you see.
Now if you are looking at value from an insurance standpoint, it is easily worth 6.000 being "stock" and functional. any improvements should bring the value up even more.
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 28, 2012 11:05:41 GMT -5
If you are looking for value to buy or sell it, I would say base price of $2000-$2500, and then depending on what type motor you are running add on another 250-1000. Just a bare stock engine case is 500, the jugs are about 200, Heads between 150 and 850 each, then add on your generator/alt., fuelsystem, ect. Depending on how you play your cards, you could basically sell the complete bradley for less than the value of the engine. If you are looking to buy, you are getting a deal on the engine and the car is free. I'm not saying to part the motor out, I'm saying look at the big picture, what all is included in what you see.
Now if you are looking at value from an insurance standpoint, it is easily worth 6.000 being "stock" and functional. any improvements should bring the value up even more.
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 27, 2012 21:21:24 GMT -5
Well, I got all the top nuts off fine, as well as the little ones for the intake heater tube thingys. Only two at the bottom broke off, the first I mentioned before was flush with the motorhead, and the second broke off at the bolthead. I have the new exhaust set in place and it sounds nice. The only time it backfired and shot flames out between the system and the engine was when I was playing with the throttle.
Tuesday, if nothing else comes up, I'll be drilling and taping one stud and welding a nut onto the other.
Thanks for the help guys, it was very helpful info.
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 27, 2012 9:57:27 GMT -5
I just got a Emip GT 4-tip exhaust from a guy on TheSamba that is like new... So here is my problem, I sprayed down the nuts on the current exhaust and about 1/2 hour later I tried to loosen them. They all felt solidly rusted yet, except for one. 1/4 turn on one of the studs on the head and snap, it finished breaking off. from the look of the dirt and buildup it was mostly twisted about break off years ago. It broke flush with the head...
Now before I proceed and possibly break off more, are those studs that screw into the head, or are they part of the head? And if they are part of the head, how deep can I drill into the head to put a stud in?
The other nuts are rusted on bad as well, any reccomendations?
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 23, 2012 23:02:11 GMT -5
I hope you all have a safe trip going to funfest and back, AND that you have a great time there.
I finally got my fuel pump changed in my pickup, so I deceided to get a little something for the Bradley. I got a great deal on an amost new Empi 4 tip GT exhaust/muffler. I soaked the nuts/bolts on the old system with PB Blaster lubercant (usually works better than WD40 for me) and about two hours later the first nut I tried snapped off at the head.
Just goes to prove if its not one thing, its one or two others. This is not the year for me.
Well once again, be safe, have fun, and take lots of pics for us!
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 15, 2012 17:12:48 GMT -5
the only suggestion I have is measure how far the tires stick out on each side when they are straight.
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 11, 2012 9:01:12 GMT -5
Great find, I enjoyed reading the info/history on this site
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Post by cocacoladodge on May 6, 2012 0:16:25 GMT -5
Do you have any sign of mice where you stored it? my dads Dragracing 72 Ford F-100 "Trans-FORD-Mobile" had a mouse chew some wires including tach after only two weeks of parking it after the season. The nickname was from the trans-am front suspention, ford body, and Olds 455 Rocket... it may sound like a cobbled combo, but talk about awesome.
Anyhoo, you may want to set some traps when you put it away for the season.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 30, 2012 21:39:14 GMT -5
A new issue has arisin for me, now I don't know if I'll be able to attend Funfest this year or not yet. This really stinks, every time I think I can make the trip, something new comes up.
The best part of it this time, is the '76 B-GT has become my daily driver. the crummy parts are that my dependable pickup (an 89 Dodge Ram) that has never given me an issue the whole time I owned it deceided to have the intank fuel pump go out, the same day my engine in my former daily driver (87 Dodge Dakota with 4cylinder, 29mpg) had a valve lifter collapse along with some pre existing problems that got worse.
With my current luck, this trip looks impossible for me this year.
I guess I'll just hit some local carshows this summer later this year.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 30, 2012 21:10:54 GMT -5
I would recomend that you look on Ebay at all of those orderform looks and advertizing, it should have not only dates, but also other valuable information for your use. I had used some of this info to avoid a ticket for no seat belts. When my Bradley was assembled, seatbelts were not yet mandated in vechicals as standard equipment; and The Bradley Car CO. did not include them in the kit. They were either a $30 or $40 additional option that you could add on, and I was able to get out of the ticket. However if anything is done to modify the stock appearence, or performance (either motor, trans, suspention, brakes, you name it) it must have seatbelts installed at that time. UNLESS it is N.O.S. equipment for restoring your classic, then it can also be vintage performance NOS parts... Found this loop hole out when working on a '56 Oldsmobile Super 88. There is nothing that says that reconditioned (or updated) nos parts can't be used. The whole thing can be a bit confusing, but do some quick checking on your state and local laws reguarding classic / antique cars and take notes on your findings for your reference
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 24, 2012 17:20:33 GMT -5
Do you have the GT style body or the GT II (GT2) style body? Do you have any Pics you can post?
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 23, 2012 8:39:58 GMT -5
For the column, I would suggest once you put it back in, find a way to tie it up and hold it at a comfortable height for you in the seat. at this point make a cardboard cut out template to make a bracket to hold it, or you can check out some different mounting kits from companys like flaming river that make steering columns. good luck!
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 23, 2012 8:14:46 GMT -5
Do you have any pictures of the redone chassis, blasted body, trans, motors?
Sandblasted parts - what parts were blasted?
Did you sandblast the body too or just prep it and prime for paint? Sandblasting is for sheetmetal and will screwup fiberglass, it will cause a pitting affect in the fiberglass. Painfull past experience I had with a project a long time ago that I had the misfourtion of experiencing. There is a simular process for fiberglass that won't ruin the gelcoat, i belive it is called sodablasting.
Body and Chassis - is it assembled or seperated at the moment?
Trans - IRS or swinger? any suspention work done? brakeline condition? drums or durm/disk combo?
Glass - Condition of front and rear glass, gull wings
motors - you mentioned 2 motors, what are the size, age, rebuild info / modifications
Wiring - Was the wiring still working or does it need attention?
Hardware - do you have hardware needed to finish?
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 21, 2012 18:52:50 GMT -5
I think that all of the boneheaded insurance laws in Michigan are why I'm having issues finding a good deal. So far Hagerty seems the best, but I'm still looking since I have a few days left. I'll be calling AAA and Gieco monday... It would be weird to have a bumper sticker of a talking lizard.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 18, 2012 12:13:23 GMT -5
LOL, What an interesting story. And the line about finding a girlfriend to help you, darn, I need to find someone like that. Nice clean looking car, just one question what size Vee-Dub did you drop in?
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GTE
Apr 18, 2012 12:01:27 GMT -5
Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 18, 2012 12:01:27 GMT -5
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 18, 2012 11:53:46 GMT -5
I also live in the country, but unfortunately all are paved and patrolled multiple times a day. Don't get me wrong, that's a good thing, but is made me think twice before just doing runs before I had a plate on it.
Seatbelts... Technically, IF and ONLY IF seatbelts were not standard on the vehicle when it was made (which it was a $40 option for the Bradley GT, but not standard) and was not Required by the Department of Transportation at the time of assembly, you do not have to install them UNLESS you modify the vehicle in any way to change the powertrain or suspension. I have been pulled over a few times for not wearing one (or so the officer could check out the car) and have been let off on this technicality. I have however recently switched to an electric fuel pump so to cover my backside, I'm going to use a lap-belt from a 70's model pickup until i find a 5 point harness I like.
If I were you I would get in touch with Dan MacMillan on here, he has answered any and all questions I have ever had, along with many other guys on here. You may also want to do a search for past postings on seatbelts.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 18, 2012 11:35:46 GMT -5
I found a company that has someone who can get me Hagerty ins. for about 3/4 what state farm can do, and about 1/2 what I was paying! I like the fact they want photos of what it looks like Inside and out, motor ect, instead of saying what do you have, I'm sorry we can't help you... Thanks guys!
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 17, 2012 21:09:05 GMT -5
Nice looking ride. So how does it feel to be legal? There is a great sence of relief not having to hope theres not a patrol car coming your way, and being able to enjoy the car, right? Some of the thrill is most likely gone, but the overall enjoyment should make up for it. I imagian everyone on here knows this feeling, and it bonds us together. Have happy travels and safe adventures.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 17, 2012 20:31:46 GMT -5
I had my Bradley insurance threw a small local company that recently was bought out by a big name company (who I am not going to name). The new company says they cannot insure assembled cars, dunebuggys, blaa blaa blaa. Bottom line being, I have 2 weeks left of my policy before I have to have a new company. I've done some checking around, and most companys also don't offer insurance for assembled cars.
Anyone have suggestions?
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Post by cocacoladodge on Apr 1, 2012 8:52:55 GMT -5
This has been educational, it has helped me understand how the exaust works, its affects on the engine, overall performance, and why it is important to consider why the "stock" system is the way it is. Cool looks and sound don't sound so good and cool after all. Thats not to say that a good thing can't look good too, it just has to be in reasonable moderation.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Mar 30, 2012 18:24:07 GMT -5
Thank you for the Info, i didn't know that the 4 to one was better. Is it because it increases backpressure or because it pulls heat away from the heads a further distance to avoid burning oil in the valvecovers... Funny, I never thought of the downside to zoomies until now. I always thought that zoomies would be better because they would have better airflow around them to cool quicker, and the end of the pipe would only be 1/2 of the tempature.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Mar 29, 2012 22:11:44 GMT -5
I'm toying with the idea of the local campground. Haven't made up my mind between a warm bed and cooking over a fire... I need to do a little more digging soon and let you know how I deceide. Both have their pros and cons.
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Engines
Mar 29, 2012 18:37:04 GMT -5
Post by cocacoladodge on Mar 29, 2012 18:37:04 GMT -5
For now, keep it simple, stick with VW. When you get a feel for what you have and deceide on how you want it to be, make the change then. and make sure you have a lot of space in your work area to move parts around as you will need it.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Mar 26, 2012 0:06:57 GMT -5
Dan, you have amazed me yet again. When I put an electric pump in my GT I was unable to find a good way to route the power to it. So as a temperary solution I wired in a toggle switch near the motor conpartment, and was intending on routing into the passenger conpartment on my next day off and have a switch behind the drivers seat. This sounds like a great idea.. the oil pressure gauge hookup that is.
So when I start cranking over I build pressure and kick on the fuel, unless I'm low on oil then it acts like a cut off so I Don't burn up the motor. Just like my generator, why didn't I think of that...
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Post by cocacoladodge on Mar 24, 2012 18:14:24 GMT -5
Brian, thats a good Idea, i might just do that if I can't find what I want and doesn't cost too much.
Jspbtown, I was thinking more along the lines of "zoomies" to work with heaterboxes, on the otherhand these do look like the height / profile I'm looking for. Thank you!
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Post by cocacoladodge on Mar 24, 2012 18:04:28 GMT -5
Have another Happy year of crisin and hotroddin, and enjoy every hour of this annerversity of your birth.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Mar 21, 2012 21:41:21 GMT -5
Does anyone know where I can find a dual exhaust setup that is made to run WITH heater boxes? I've checked out Empi, Bugpack, GEX, appletreeauto, C.I.P., JCWhitney, TheSamba classifieds (if there is one on there, I missed it while looking at other things). The stock muffler/exhaust just looks too bulky like it was a part of a Lego set on a model car... I want to keep my heater boxes for now until I switch to electric heaters, but don't even know if anyone does make a dual exhaust like what I'm looking for. So if anyone here can help me out with direction as to where I could find something like this, that would be great. If not, alternitive suggestions are welcome as well.
What types of Exhaust have you found works well for you that has a "tucked away" look that is close to level with the body?
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