Here it is, VW / Bradley GTII Tike build

I believe that is the backup indicator... I could be mistaken, neither of my B-GT have it hooked up, but neither have backup lights. So it might be or might not be. -great that sounded like shakespeare of the 21st century

What carb prob do you have?

Is there fuel in the carb fuel bowl? Possible reversed pump hoses.

Sounds like bad accel pump or plugged port from pump, gives hesitation and falls flat on it's face on hard accel. Idle issues would be a plugged idle jet. right side of carb just in front of and slightly below the elect choke

These note mainly pertain to Solex carbs but the principals apply to all.

There are 2 check balls in the accel pump intake passage that must be free to move. Otherwise it will not spray.

Although not a diag of your carb it shows the balls on the right side {big arrow Zuflub des Kraftstoffs}





Also make sure the output nozzle is presant and spraying a steady stream without hitting the throttle plate or shaft. It is very common for this nozzle to rattle loose and get sucked into the engine. Damage to the pistons/cyl rarely happens as it just gets spit out the exhaust.



Item 34 is the culprit for sudden loss of idle. It has 4 large ports in the side of it and one very small port in the end. This usually plugs whenever a fuel filter is changed.





Do not poke with a wire. Use only aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air. Also do not run with it loose as many people recommend.

An easy way to clean out the carb without tools is to remove the air filter, start engine and rev to 2500 rpm. Seal the top of the carb momentarily with your hand. Remove hand then recover the engine using the throttle. Repeat a few times. This creates a massive vacuum that forces excess fuel through all of the ports. It also empties the float bowl through the vent pulling any dirt out at the same time.

Another thing to consider is if you removed the intake. The end castings on a 1600 must be torqued down first before the center section, and that the upper cyl tins are not getting trapped under the end castings. A vacuum leak will result. I just fixed a guys buggy where proper proceedure was not followed when he installed chrome tins. His intake gaskets never crushed down sealng the intake, Random backfire- hard to set idle and timing changes did not compute, Extreme lack of power.

Dash is done w/lights working, r/s turn is on&high beam is on.
Alt & oil need to be rewire w/power to the light then neg to eng.



Rear Brakes are on hold as both 7mm bleeder snapped off. Master has been bleed.

Is that an air shock on there?

Drums, shoe, cyl (2), hardware, adj. screws & nuts (4), master cyl & grommet = $195.28. And that's with the 9.25% tax of $16.53
Now I have to put it back together.

You call that rusted? you should see my drums on the blue 74, I can't even turn them so the chassis is stuck where it is until i can restart on it again.

Now on a different note, your shocks. Did you choose air over coilover so you can still lean in to turns like a normal bike?

Yeah, I remember when you got them from the donor car. I just thought you planned it that way. However, being Air, when you make right turns it would allow the body to tilt left (and lft turns tilt roght...) unless you lean into the turn like on a motorcycle. It should be an awesome feel compared to a gas shock... Ok, I think I've blabed enough on this, just thining out loud so to say. I can't wait to see whats next on this.

Oh GREAT , the rubber hoses are plugged on the rear brake.New hoes another $42.00.
Carb from eBay should be today also.

Carb came in, had to change the heater choke to the elec. one & mount the VW linkage bar.
Mounted & she started right up.
Don't purr like a kitten yet, but will get there.

Back to the brake hoses.

Drove it to the top of the driveway up hill.
Brake drums are tight, adj. all the way in, no brakes going down hill, pedal is tight & no air in system that I know of. WOW what a trip.
Didn't crash into the garage, thanks to the dragging brakes.

We are lucky here as there is a old VW Bug Parts store.
Took all of my old parts with me to get new, 4 lug '68+

E Brake spreader is properly seated in the shoe slots

Also installing the shoes upside down, Found picture on line of the brakes & mine are the same
Adj. are new with lube in the block & are all the close.
Was hard to get the drum on also.
Hoped after a little movement, The shoes would center them self.
No lock. Bleeding looked good with no are & all new parts.
Pedal feel good, but no brakes.

But 6 & a 1/2 weeks after starting this project & rode it under power.

that's from the new set I got