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Post by skip20 on Aug 1, 2012 7:56:36 GMT -5
Starting the trim the inside of the body. Working on the rear got it down to within 14". Work on the front today.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 1, 2012 11:31:20 GMT -5
Wow, within 14". getting close.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 1, 2012 16:04:02 GMT -5
Wow, within 14". getting close. Started at 22"! Trim slow so can get a good fit with min gaps. |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 1, 2012 18:48:34 GMT -5
Actually I thought it was a typo. Thought you had 1/4" to go. Where can you remove that much material. Looking good, great progress.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 2, 2012 16:46:45 GMT -5
Down to 7" still to go!  Bad view to the front inside.  Inside rear.  Inside rear.  Right rear side view.  |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 2, 2012 19:57:33 GMT -5
Down to within 2.5"!!!!!!   |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 2, 2012 21:23:49 GMT -5
Amazing
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Post by skip20 on Aug 3, 2012 8:25:15 GMT -5
Dan MacMillan
Global Moderator
FAST CLEAN UP ON THE SITE THIS AM!
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Post by skip20 on Aug 3, 2012 8:26:20 GMT -5
The body has only done up/down like 10 times. |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 3, 2012 11:19:09 GMT -5
Dan MacMillan Global Moderator FAST CLEAN UP ON THE SITE THIS AM! Thanks, glad I can do it. I could not sleep last night, at 4;40 am it was clean. Power nap till 7;30 and one new member posted at least 15 times. |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 3, 2012 19:48:29 GMT -5
Well the body is down as far as she want to go. Have about 3/8" of the rear wheel well showing.  No pictures as I figured your tried of see the same thing. |
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Post by dawgdk on Aug 3, 2012 20:50:48 GMT -5
Trim the wheel wells and fiberglass the fender to it!!!! ;D
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 3, 2012 21:07:26 GMT -5
Well the body is down as far as she want to go. Have about 3/8" of the rear wheel well showing. No pictures as I figured your tried of see the same thing. Not a valid excuse. Inquiring minds want to see. Inside and out please. |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 5, 2012 11:43:57 GMT -5
OK, OK Dan, Pictures. Seeing how I took the weekend off, here you go. The sling is loose & the body is sitting on the frame as far down as she want to go. The rear shock tower is on the inside body. The plywood board under the rocker pane/body has been removed, along with a lot of trimming here & there. The heater/AC box is still there. The plywood braces on the front & rear are still there but trimmed down on the body The front  Looking at the engine though the wind shield.  Engine though the door Will be making plywood cover top & front, like Dan's Subby, but the front cover will have a removable cover also to get to the front of engine maint.  Inside front were I need to build the firewall  Looking down on the engine  Rear wheel is centered to body, you may be able to see a little red top center wheel well  Looking into the rear hatch, looks like room for the rad.  In the rear, can see the 2 pipes for the water inlet for rad.  Bye Bye |
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Post by dawgdk on Aug 5, 2012 13:17:38 GMT -5
hey Skip, the car is really looking good now would be the perfect time to get the door gap perfect and that would help out when you get to the point of mounting everything back together.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 5, 2012 13:39:04 GMT -5
Next is to build the firewall.
Door gap was on my mine also.
Will be mounted to the floor as will as the tubing in the front & back.
Will need to rebuild the rocker panel plywood also.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Aug 5, 2012 14:24:32 GMT -5
Forget learnado divinche, THIS is a piece of art. Now you better take a video and post on youtube for us when you take it for the test run... I'm excited for you and want to hear and see this when shes ready, and I'm sure everyone else does too.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 5, 2012 16:01:39 GMT -5
Absolutely amazing. Very well done and it looks like those two cars were meant to be one. I was a bit shocked to see the dash or lack of. Lots to do but I know you can pull it off. My engine cover is completely removeable. Top is 3 pieces, front is one piece. Four minutes to remove it all. Great access.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 5, 2012 16:03:05 GMT -5
As mentioned before. You are now required to post video.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 5, 2012 17:28:38 GMT -5
This is what I worked on this weekend. 4'x8' HF 1750lb trailer. It's 8 years old & the plywood was rotten& the frame twisted. Disassemble & welded the frame joints, painted it red & laid down new ext.plywood painted with fence stain.  Had the Toyota Supra on this for trip home before the redo. My 6'x12' trailer has a hot tub on it for the past 2 months. Another project to do! |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 6, 2012 16:02:49 GMT -5
Been cutting up the floor to see if I can get more leg space. Also hoping the frame doesn't bent in half.  Also getting the rad to fit. Will need to cut back the trans cross member some to clear the fans. Or get slim line after market fans. And YES, the filler is higher then the engine highest water mark! Will cut a vent in the trunk door & lower rear rocker panel for the hot air out.   |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 6, 2012 16:25:17 GMT -5
Do not forget. Subaru engine must be filled manually with coolant through the upper rad hose prior to filling the rad.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 6, 2012 16:28:32 GMT -5
This is what I worked on this weekend. 4'x8' HF 1750lb trailer. It's 8 years old & the plywood was rotten& the frame twisted. Disassemble & welded the frame joints, painted it red & laid down new ext.plywood painted with fence stain. Had the Toyota Supra on this for trip home before the redo. My 6'x12' trailer has a hot tub on it for the past 2 months. Another project to do! It is strange how we are both building gt2s. Subi power. Mid engine. And I too was repairing my box trailer on the same days as you. |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 7, 2012 17:01:32 GMT -5
More running around today so much to report Did get the top rad. hoses fitted.  Worked on cutting more of the floor to see what I could do. May be able to get 3-4" more on the flat of the floor then angle it up 4" using thick wall 2"x3" tubing & 16ga sheet metal.  |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 8, 2012 14:47:08 GMT -5
To humid to work on the car!!  |
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 8, 2012 15:04:10 GMT -5
Looks to me like you got plenty of room for your feets,
I'd let 'em hang down Fred Flintstone-style.
Just like the other one you was fixin up!
Too Humid....? Turn on the AC!
Besides yer from Hawaii it's humid there no?
All kiddin aside this is one of the most interesting builds yet documented!!
Good on ya Skip!!!!
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Post by skip20 on Aug 8, 2012 15:24:58 GMT -5
Looks to me like you got plenty of room for your feets, I'd let 'em hang down Fred Flintstone-style. Just like the other one you was fixin up! Too Humid....? Turn on the AC! Besides yer from Hawaii it's humid there no? All kiddin aside this is one of the most interesting builds yet documented!! Good on ya Skip!!!! Temp in the 90's H in the 100's Hawaii has the nice trade winds with avg temp 70-80's ;D Thank you for the nice comment, make me wont to go out & work on the baby. Hey, my $15.00 Bradley Watch from eBay came in today. The Logo is printer on, but has a good 3D look to it. S/S band was wrapped well. But the time was off as 3 minutes slow. |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 10, 2012 11:37:55 GMT -5
Worked on the rad mount this AM. Lifted the body off to get to anything. Made the mounts for the top support.   Got all of the welding finished up on it & did some painting. Added side brace brackets to the tubing which will bolt to the plywood supports on the rear of body.   |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 10, 2012 21:10:16 GMT -5
The rad is all plumed on top, Yellow pipes, next is to get some 1.5" pipe bent for the bottom hose. The water bottle is mounted also. There is a pipe support on the left side.  Here from the front. Used all '02 Outback upper hoses cut & joined.  Air cleaner install, still need the lower supports made up.  Here's the body lifted & the frame up on the hoist.  I know, get to work on the front frame & firewall! |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 10, 2012 22:34:35 GMT -5
What did you do to the pipes to form a ridge so the hoses cannot "slip" off under pressure? I mig welded 4 small beads around the ends of each pipe. The hose clamps rest close to these ridges.
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