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Post by skip20 on Jul 17, 2012 17:07:15 GMT -5
Not to much today. Made the trans mount & cross bar, but it's only tacked due to the welder ran out of the gas.  Road trip down town tomorrow. Pick up Gas. Pickup 1/2" plate for axle adp. Get axle adp. cut out. Weld up shorten trans tail shaft hole. (cut off about 2") |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 18, 2012 17:53:25 GMT -5
Went down town & picked up a short sheet of 3/8" plate. Then went over to a friend shop & he plasma cut 2 6-3/8" discs with a 2.5" hole in the center. This will give me space to cut & trim to size on the Lathe. Got home & cut off the 2 Subaru trans side axle hubs. Picture shows the Hubs & Supra outer hub.  Working on the Lathe, I cut down both Subby hubs, Trimmed the center hole & recess for the Subby hub. This is what will be Tig Welded later. Started to trim the out disc & brake the last cutter I had. So till I can find one!  When finished on the lathe, will drill the 6 holes in both disc to mount the Supra axle using the hub as a template. |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 18, 2012 20:58:02 GMT -5
I'm glad to see there are a few people watching this (20 views last 3 Hours).
Be great to read a few comment, Pro/Con.
I'm not even sure what I'm doing is going to work out to be truthful.
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Post by Wyn on Jul 18, 2012 21:09:20 GMT -5
At lease you are trying and doing something.  Wyn |
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 18, 2012 21:34:45 GMT -5
Hi Skip,  I've been amazed at how much you get done in a day. And it happens day after day!  All my projects go a lot slower and are a lot less involved than yours. Nice work. I enjoy following your progress. Gary Hammond,  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 19, 2012 7:07:30 GMT -5
Just a thought on your adapters. Press fit the suby splined hub into your disk. Then drill 6 , 19/64 holes down through the seam where the hub touches the disk. Get 12 5/16 grade 8 bolts that are not threaded to the head. Cut off the heads and threads. Press these studs into the holes. Trim to be flush then do your welding. It will guarantee that nothing lets go.
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gtjim
New Member
Posts: 27
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Post by gtjim on Jul 19, 2012 17:38:33 GMT -5
Good idea Dan. If you have access to any stamping die parts, or just want to order some, you can pick up hardened dowels pretty cheap. A lot less cutting!
Jim
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Post by skip20 on Jul 19, 2012 18:40:14 GMT -5
Thank you for the comments. Dan, cool idea, but a lot of work drill all the holes. Don't think it would work with the CV joint pushing & pulling on it with all the bumps in the road. The pins would work on it not turning, but even with a good press fir, think it would get pull out. That's why I got them Tig welded, not mig'ed Axle adp.are finished. Got them welded up this morning & put them back in the lathe to face the surface. They are ready to install tomorrow. Didn't take as many pictures as I wanted, so here the are finished.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 19, 2012 19:27:34 GMT -5
I posted to do it prior to welding. Welding is only on the surface with some penetration, depending on the bevel cut on the edges of the 2 parts.. The pins provide rotational support 100% of the surface. The welding takes care on the push pull and some rotational.
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Post by skip20 on Jul 20, 2012 9:47:26 GMT -5
Got the Trans tail plugged, give me maybe 2 extra inches.  Trans mount is welded up, painted & 1/2 welded into the frame.  Got the axle adp. mounted to trans, but looks like bad news ahead. The Auto. trans is wider the then 5 speed & may have to cut & shorten the axles 1 - 2 inches.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 20, 2012 13:10:03 GMT -5
How did you plug the rear output? Did you cut the output shaft. Wider than the 5 spd, that explains why the info at subarugears.com is no good.
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Post by skip20 on Jul 20, 2012 14:29:07 GMT -5
Yes, cut the cast back to mount & cut the output shaft a little more the that ( removed the spline area).
Can't get to the yellow Bradley with the 5 speed, but made adp. from 1/2" plate
& the axle slipped right on. The auto trans has 3/8" adp. & must be wider as I cant get the axle on them.
These guys subarugears.com only show the 5 speed no automatic.
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Post by skip20 on Jul 22, 2012 13:21:58 GMT -5
No work on Saturday as I had to work on the Laser Engraver computer. Axle DO NOT need to be cut, lifted the frame up & worked on it from under the car & was able to slide the axles in. Couldn't get the axles off the hub anyway!   Did need to grind the trans case down to clear the bolts on the adp. Supra had studs on the diff. I had started to mill the head of the bolts down on the lathe. Also had to add shims (washers) on this axle due to having to remove to much when I facing the disc.  Now the firewall & a brace across the rear over the trans. |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 22, 2012 18:02:25 GMT -5
Got the Subby firewall trimmed down & fitted into the Supra frame with a lot of gaps to fill.   Also made a shock tower brace which can be removed if needed. The cruise control is also mounted to it.  Got some of the eng/trans wiring plugged in also. |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 23, 2012 9:15:50 GMT -5
Mounted the Subaru Outback rear shock into the Toyota Frame. Will make out a pair of 1/4" plates to mount to the top of the shock towers.  The rear end is at the ride height I was hoping for. You can see the Trans oil filter on the floor ( left side ) Which is next to mount.  Dressed up the engine a little & checked air clearer setup.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 23, 2012 17:13:18 GMT -5
That's it for today. Mounted trans oil filter & painted all the welding spots. Added a brace across the lower control arms as it had been cut to clear the trans. BIG PROBLEM! Looks like the trans pan had a leak & the put 2 gals of silicone on it. However it looks like it still leaking, but can't get to the front bolts as they are over that lower cross plate. Happy Days! Also started tacking the firewall in.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 24, 2012 15:15:08 GMT -5
Still thinking about the firewall!  Finished the welding under the car, got the engine crossover all tied in & added a 2" tube across the lower control arms. I HATE welding upside down!!!!!  Painted all of the welded & cut areas.  Tighten the bolts on the trans pan, found a few loose one, & hope it wouldn't leak. Topped off the trans fluid & differential. Will change after it's up & running. Changed the filter & oil in the engine also. It came out like water & light brown. Will have a little trouble with the exhaust, but nothing the shop can't handle. I think the rear section is finished for now. |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 25, 2012 20:12:35 GMT -5
Not much today drove out to a VW speed shop to get some 2" tubing bent for the low rollbar in front of the engine & between the rear upper A-arm.
Had to cut the cradle to clear the auto trans.
Also got some 1 1/4' thin wall for the rad hoses to the back.
Then I had to cut half the yard. More of that tomorrow.
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Post by skip20 on Jul 26, 2012 11:00:34 GMT -5
Been busy this morning playing with the tubing I got yesterday. Adding bracing from rear trans mount cross over to the shock tower. Adding bracing across the upper A-arms to 1/4 plates which will be bolts to sub-frame. Adding low roll bar in front of engine for mounting a plywood wall to. Right now most of them are just tacked welded on.   The rest of the day may go to yard work, but then again maybe NOT! |
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Post by dawgdk on Jul 26, 2012 19:52:56 GMT -5
Will ther be any need for gussets in the bends or will they be strong enough as is?
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Post by skip20 on Jul 27, 2012 18:22:55 GMT -5
Will ther be any need for gussets in the bends or will they be strong enough as is? Nope, no gussets, these are 1.5" thick wall tubing used to build race car roll bars. |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 28, 2012 8:59:19 GMT -5
Yesterday was run around day. One thing I got done was get the shock tower disc plasma cut. So mounted them this morning. Lift the frame to drop the shock & grind down the lip around the hole. You can see the 1/4" plate off to the right. The 2 holes were off so had to notch them.  Here they holding the shock.  And then all welded in.  Then painted the area RED!!!! ;D  Also was able to pick up some metric weld in nuts, so will work on the upper A-arm support today. This needs to be strong but removable. Couldn't find anyone that could bend 1 1/4" tubing, so will pickup a bender from Harbor Fright, on sell now for $99 + a 20% off. |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 28, 2012 12:07:01 GMT -5
Drilled the 1/4' plate for the cross over trans. Drilled & welded in the weld nut & mounted both plates. Welded the 1.5" tubing to the plates. Drilled & tapped for the brake line. Welded the bracket for the bar from the engine.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 29, 2012 13:20:37 GMT -5
Got the trans hoop finished. Drilled & tapped 6mm holes for the brake line. Painter & reinstalled.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 29, 2012 16:00:26 GMT -5
Been busy cleaning up the garage to remount the over head wrench to be able to life the body up/down. Also did a little bit on the rad hose to the back. The Subaru 3.0-6 has 2 water outlet.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 31, 2012 5:24:55 GMT -5
Here's the rad pipes going to the back. Found some cool brackets at HD in the elec. dept. to hold them with holes already in the shock tower. Upper pipes are 1 1/4" OD & the lower pipe next to the left side of the trans is 1.5"  |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 31, 2012 5:27:50 GMT -5
Moved the frame out & remounted the elec. hoist moving it over 8" to be centered between the lift now. This will be lifting the body & the frame will be on the lift.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 31, 2012 7:17:33 GMT -5
Guess what a little paint will do.  And cleaning the plastic cover.  Due to rain can't move the frame out & the Bradley body in. So I painted. |
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 31, 2012 8:18:46 GMT -5
I have used that same hoist to move bodies and motors around. Its been very nice. Although everytime I life a body I get so nervous.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jul 31, 2012 8:33:09 GMT -5
It's Up Up & Away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D   |
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All my projects go a lot slower and are a lot less involved than yours.
