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Post by leonardabell on Aug 27, 2011 14:29:54 GMT -5
I looked at just a shell of a GT 1 today. It's in northern Illinois and missing everything but the main molded shell. A couple of places need fiberglass repair. It looks like it has been sand blasted to remove the gelcoat. He said he would take $100 for it. If interested, let me know and I will get the info to him.
Leonard Abell Leonardabell9@hotmail.com
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Post by leonardabell on Aug 22, 2011 8:52:07 GMT -5
Mine is road worthy but not used all that much. My wife won't ride in it, so only tool around town a couple times a month. I have driven it to Carlyle Penn. a couple of times, from Illinois. That is the furthest I've driven it at one time.
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Post by leonardabell on Aug 13, 2011 12:02:21 GMT -5
Drove my Granddaughter to Soccer about 25 miles away today. Ran like a champ. Got a few stares from the soccor fans as I parked it.
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Post by leonardabell on Aug 7, 2011 8:05:37 GMT -5
Just a quick note on the wheels, they are fairly new and all the same. I did adjust all shoes to tight minus 2 clicks back. I will check again.
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Post by leonardabell on Aug 5, 2011 19:50:17 GMT -5
:PI've reached the end of my options. New hose and wheel brake cyl, bled both lines and cyl in the 12:00 position and put it all together. With light pedal, it brakes evenly, but under hard braking, it will pull to the left. I can live with it, but it is not right.
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Post by leonardabell on Aug 3, 2011 10:51:54 GMT -5
I have now cleaned my brake shoes and drums with brake fluid cleaner, Roughed up the shoes with a wire wheel, bled the right front brake line and removed the wheel cyl on the right side and bled it. BTW, it did have air in it, so it is necessary to do this. The pedel did come up to where it is supposed to be, but it still pulls to the left. My next step would be to replace the right wheel cyl and rubber line. That is all I can think of to do with this problem.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 30, 2011 17:38:04 GMT -5
When I returned the bad MC, the guy at the shop asked If I had gotten any fluid on the drum. Very well could have, and it might grab a little. I will try to burn it off by dragging the brake and see what happens.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 30, 2011 11:44:49 GMT -5
Pedal travel seems OK, but it puts a little to the right. Maybe some more air in the right front line? I had the rubber lines changed about 10 years ago, so it shouldn't be bulging. It's not bad, just enought to know it pulls. I wouldn't want to put on the brakes without having a hold of the steering wheel.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 29, 2011 22:25:24 GMT -5
I got a NEW, not rebuilt. MC and bench bled it. A LOT different that the other one. I had the rebuilt one out and and the new one in in 2.5 hours. It's amazing what a difference it makes in having done it before. The seat came out and back in without a hitch. I even got the bolt started in the new master on the first try. I filled the reservoir and am letting it sit over night. Tomorrow I tighten up the brakes and do the bleed. Here's hoping it works like it's supposed to work. If not, then I need to reposition the new wheel cyl and bleed it.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 25, 2011 21:37:40 GMT -5
yes, they are at 3 and 9 o'clock. Would it help if I took the front wheel cyl off and carefully bled them Horizonal? I don't know how else to get the air out of them?
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 25, 2011 17:29:29 GMT -5
Called Napa tech support and he said if I didn't have any air in the lines, the Master I bought must be bad. I ordered another one, this time a new one rather than a rebuilt. Only $10 differance and with shipping on the rebuilt one, ( not in stock and Fed EX charges), it's only $3 differance.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 25, 2011 11:50:49 GMT -5
i have the air out of the lines, I have the pads 2 clicks off of draging, I have the free play of the push rod at 1/4 inch. I have 4 inch of travel before the brakes engage. I can live with that, but I know it's not right.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 25, 2011 10:13:50 GMT -5
I tightened the brake pads as tight as they could go, and bled the brakes. I can feel a slight resistance about 1 inch in pedal travel and firm at 1/2 down. Is that too much travel? How do I adjust it? Extend the push rod? Afraid to ruin the master by doing the wrong thing. The bubbles are all gone in the system.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 24, 2011 17:33:17 GMT -5
I replaced mine with 3/4 inch but there is room for 1.00 if you want.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 24, 2011 10:20:26 GMT -5
I'll let you know how it goes Mon night.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 23, 2011 21:50:37 GMT -5
So keeping the end of the drain tube under brake fluid in the drain bottle won't do it.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 23, 2011 13:03:45 GMT -5
I tried to bench bleed the master, and got it as good as I could. Still had a few bubbles, so thought it might have a small leak around the tubing I was using to drain into. Installed the master, and hooked it all up, and tried to bleed. Not good. The fluid and bubbles comes out of the bleeder into the clear plastic tube, and then goes back when I release the pedal. I kept the end under fluid in a drain an the whole time. It's really difficult to get to just fluid. Lots of pushing on the brake. Still no pedal pressure. None at all. Is it possiable that the push rod is too short or too long? If not that, the new master must be defective.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 22, 2011 22:03:55 GMT -5
Thanks, that is a big relieve. Thought I might have to order one. Tomorrow looks like a good day to get it in.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 22, 2011 18:06:17 GMT -5
I noticed there is a small amount of pitting on the push rod into the Master cyl. Is this acceptable?
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 21, 2011 10:54:10 GMT -5
There are 2 tubes between the firewall sides that the 2 master cyl bolts pass through. Make sure they do not fall out/ Boy are you right on that one, It took 1.5 hours trying to get one to line up and I wound up grinding .050 off of the spacer to get it to fit in. The old master had adapters for the bubble and the new one doesn't. Now I may be 3/4 of an inch short on my new lines. We'll see when I get it installed.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 19, 2011 22:29:26 GMT -5
The Bradley GT is not a car you want to drove on snow. The time I did, it was like steering a toboggan. The front end just climbed right up on the snow and zig zaged all the way to storage.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 17, 2011 22:36:50 GMT -5
No such luck. The carriage bolts have to fit into the square hole and the head has to fit into the track. No hurry, I will get what I need by the time I get ready to put the seat back in.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 17, 2011 15:49:48 GMT -5
Man, I hate when I do stupid things. I knew I needed 5/16 stainless steel carriage bolts and nuts to replace my seat, and bought 3/8. Now have to drive back to DeKalb (16 miles) to exchange them.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 17, 2011 7:53:59 GMT -5
All good to know. Today is a day for my wife, so will not be doing any Bradley work.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 16, 2011 22:42:13 GMT -5
I was just worried there was another screw or somewhere holding it in. The push rod should come out with the cylendar with or without the clip being removed? Or does is the push rod part of the brake petal assembly?
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 16, 2011 19:04:21 GMT -5
Got a good start on the brake lines. Front and back replaced, but not the one that runs through the car. It does go beside the tunnel just like all of you said. I stand corrected . It seems that the leak is in the master cylinder and coming out the back. Somehow it is getting inside the tunnel and dripping from there. I blocked the rear brake line and tried to pump up the front, but couldn't get any petal pressure. Now I have all the lines off of the master, and the two screws out from inside the car, and have no idea how to get it loose. It is set in there like a rock. I even unscrewed the plunger inside the car from the pusher (clevis), but still tight. Does it just need a bigger hammer?
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 15, 2011 22:16:19 GMT -5
I got the left rear line replaced tonight. Only 4 more to go. Boy, they have to line up just right or the threads won't start!
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 12, 2011 9:17:58 GMT -5
Or you may be able to put all bends in, put the flares on each end and twist/turn it so it feeds through the car. I see a problem with that. I could twist the tubing maybe to get in the first hole, but no twisting would allow to fit through the second hole. The Junction sounds like a great idea. I should have garage space in a few days and am anxious to get started. the grommet is a good idea also.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 11, 2011 10:11:59 GMT -5
This is what I was planning to do. It's the one that runs though the car that I am worried about. Once it's threaded through the car, it needs to be bent and flared in place. Not a lot of room.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 6, 2011 22:11:21 GMT -5
My bubble flare tool came today. Now trying to think how to gage how long to cut the tubing. It is not easy to form a bead, tried one just see. Takes a lot of strength and leverage. I can't see doing it in a tight place.
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