|
Post by Wyn on May 4, 2010 11:03:44 GMT -5
If you are looking for floor pans be careful of getting the Mexican made pans, they are very thin and light. Some suppliers offer the heaver pans its best to get them what ever the cost. Another Ideal is to use fiberglass pans, they are much heaver then the Mexican pans. They need to be ribbited in place. I used 5/16 steel ribbit on my first chassis, I could not hand pop them. So I got a pneumatic popper. You will need a little bit of the old pan still attach to head and tunnel, So you don’t cut all of the old pan off. link www.vwinnovations.com/instructions.html More pics for a fiberglass pan Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 27, 2010 22:55:56 GMT -5
Of the switches I had they had never been used but were in bad shape from old age and dry cracking.
One of the switches came apart and would not stay together, There was a small spring a plastic stem and a metal rocker inside the switch. From the looks of all the switches they would not hold up very well. That is why I looked for some other switches to do the job. One of the other members asked about the old switches and I gave they to him. The S-V-C are more modern and Illuminated. They will work in the original GT2 Dash with very little mod. The cost was very reasonable from the UK and it was cheaper to ship across the big pond than it cost to ship across the U.S.A. I think I paid less for these switches then I would have paid for them here in the states. Plastic works great.
Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 27, 2010 10:24:00 GMT -5
In my search for Lucas switches that were popular for the old Jags for my GT2 . I was unable to find any of the old Lucas Jag switches. But found Stafford Vehicle Components. The switches were close to the size needed. The S-V-C switches were newer and if any broke they could easy replaced. They are the same width but a little bit longer so little rework on the switch slot the switches will work. I had redesigned my Dash for a computer and video screen and needed the switches to be gang mounted. The Gang Mounting Frames offered from S-V-C worked out great. Also I needed to modify one of the switches, I took the switch apart, pulled out one of the contacts and moved it to the reverse side and this reversed for function of that switch. Also all the switches are Illuminated a little extra wiring but easily done. Wyn Link www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod_switches.html
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Mar 21, 2010 14:28:32 GMT -5
don29163 At the top of the page with all the threads just click the new thread link in the blue bar. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Dec 25, 2009 15:04:34 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Nov 24, 2009 21:36:30 GMT -5
My GT-II is still in progress as fast as an old gimp can move. I have the new dash cover installed, instruments are in. I need to connect up the AC pressure lines under the dash. Then Im ready to level the body and place it on the chassis. The body is held up via two 2” web straps easy to rotate by one and easy to work on. New dash cover installed Computer monitor and radio installed Butt sag braces installed ready for the body Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Nov 24, 2009 21:00:09 GMT -5
Hello mgzman1 Welcome to the board.
You need Jeff’s CD on the GT-II it has the wiring diagram you need. If the converter box does not work a replacement can be obtain from U-Haul. It is not the same fiscal box but it is the same function as the GT-II’s converter box. I have read on the old board where some say the GT-II’s converter box has dimmer levels of light on the bulbs. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Nov 17, 2009 22:17:12 GMT -5
It’s not the Bradley web site, I have been on my ISP for the past week for the net slow down, I was looking at video on U-tube, the videos would out run the buffers and stop until part of the buffer could load and then again stop. The ISP tells me they can not find the problem. Several years ago Alltel took over the northeastern USA network and they could not handle the small local network they had. This slow down does not surprise me at all. We’ll just have to wait until some smart boy finds the problem. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Nov 17, 2009 14:32:19 GMT -5
I have built a new padded dash cover for my GT II. It gives me a 2” brow over my gauges and the video monitor. I have also drilled 4 holes through the cover to allowed access for dash wiring to light the up the 4 gauges with LED’s from the front. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Oct 21, 2009 23:17:02 GMT -5
Yes I would use the fender washers or something larger. If you are in a warmer part of the country let the sun beat down on the side of the car you are bolting down. Do not bolt it all the way down do it gradually or do it in a warm garage. I would cut, bend and weld the 2” angle to shape it for the edge of the pan. Make sure the 2” angle is at least 1/8” thick. It would take about 7 cuts and welds to shape it. My 1” lift frame took about 7 cuts and welds to shape each side, not hard to do. With the lower edge of the body you will not see the 2” angle hanging down. Wyn Link to web site users.alink.com/aeolus/B-lift.htmThose are Fiber Glass floor pans in the pics. The state would not let me register that chassis so I had to start over and build a totaly new chassis.
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Oct 21, 2009 19:12:47 GMT -5
Leslamcke If the body is bowed that badly I would recommend to a 2” angle iron the length of the floor pan to reinforce the pan and the glass body. From what I can see of your car that bowing is causing more of your door distortion than butt sag. The floor pan has no strength to correct any bowing of the body. Over the years there have been many kitcars that used a extra brace along the pans and bodies.
So again I highly recommend some reinforcement along the pan and body.
Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Oct 18, 2009 16:38:14 GMT -5
leslamcke On the GTE the two support walls in the back are shorter and wider than the GT-II and requires a bracket to drop down to hold the rear bumper mount. The wall are shorter in length to allow the rear tail light to be installed. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Oct 18, 2009 16:21:35 GMT -5
Leslamcke That gap is from the butt sag problem. The door is being distorted by the pull of the roof to the rear. If you do not have the front body and bumper mounts install it could allow the nose to drop. That Body mount bolts the two front wood supports and the clamps to the two torsion beam of the front suspension. Get the front body mounts installed before you do any adjustment for the butt sag. Get some pics on the board. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Oct 15, 2009 13:38:32 GMT -5
The two large brackets are the Body, Tank and Bumper mounts. There should be two U channels that match the back side of these mounts so it will bolt around the front suspension assembly. The small rectangle plate between then is a doubler plate for the rear bumper mounts, it mounts on the engine side of the engine compartment wall. I’m not sure it that is for the GTE rear bumper, as mine rear bumper mount has 6 holes I will need to look at the other hardware I have to be sure. The two engine compartment walls of the GTE are shorter than the GT-II so there are a drop down bracket to mount the Rear bumper mount. The 7 brackets are for the seat mounts there should be 8. I only used 4 and made a one peace mount for the out side of the seats. The lower bracket is the upper Tank support the two offset points will slip over the two short bolt holes on the top torsion bar assembly on the front suspension. There should be another support for the tank bottom, it is made from a 1” angle with two short 1” bars welded on the ends. It will bolt to the three holes in the bottom half of the Body, Tank, Bumper mounts. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Oct 13, 2009 21:15:09 GMT -5
Hi John I am on the net every day and hit this site about 3 or 4 time during the day. Most of the time I use my PocketPC, which is very awkward to reply to any web messages. When I post I also like to try to attach a picture to the posting, but at times you can’t always do it. Six weeks ago I had a partial right knee replacement done. A week ago Saturday I went to the ER because of some nasty flue, negative on the H1N1. Got some antibiotics. The Monday following my heart started A-Fib again, tried to medicate it my self, would not convert. So Wednesday I went to the ER in Columbus and they keep me for 2 nights. By Friday morning the heart had converted back to sinus rhythm. Now the weather is turning to crap. I hate working on car in the cold! Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Oct 7, 2009 7:48:39 GMT -5
Hi Steve I’ll need to see the pics but it sounds like the but sag problem. As the read end drops the rear roof falls too which pulls on the bridge from the rear roof section to the windshield. This pulls the top of the doors back this causes the top front edge of the door to deform with the A pillar. Sometimes the upper corner of each side of the windshield to gap open. A good sag support should correct this problem. Good luck with your grandson’s big game hunt. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Oct 6, 2009 7:32:44 GMT -5
Hi Steve Where is the 1 inch gap? In the center where, can you post some pics? The only 1” gap I have is between the console and the dash and I plan to make a 1” spacer and form it on top of the console and that will be enough to mount a retractable beverage tray from a 1998 Hyundai Elantra. Since I moved the shifter back there is room for the tray. Getting over these med problems is a real pain. I have not gotten much sleep the last 4 night for an assortment of problems. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Sept 23, 2009 22:59:28 GMT -5
tuffbars This is the drawing I used for my butt sagg brace. I also plan to use a trailer on the car so I need the extra support. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Sept 23, 2009 22:43:31 GMT -5
Hi Tony The lift frame is 1” thinwall square tubing. All the parts were cut and welded to shape except the forward firewall. I took a 1” piece to Tubular Techniques in Columbus along with a plywood template, and had them bend it. But there is a problem the downward sides of the tubing needed to ¾” thick instead of 1”, so I used the air grinder and cut a ¼” section out of the sides used Rob Stones sledge-a-matic ;D and beat it closed and welded. The rear firewall is just 1” tubing cut and welded to shape. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Sept 23, 2009 14:35:25 GMT -5
Sorry Tony, I did not see your reply on the line. The support is 1” by 2” U channel. I first made the mounting brackets and bolted them the frame. Next I aligned the uncut and unshaped ‘U’ channel and C-clamped them in place at the first angle. I made sure they were in the same plane and then tacked welded them in place. Removed the two supports and finished welding them. And again I reinstalled them and then made a paper template and marked the the channels for their first major cut. I used my sons air grinders to cut a wedge out of the side of the channel bent it and tacked welded and remounted it to make sure it will clear the top of the shock and horizontal to the ground. Removed it and did the full weld on that cut. The second channel I clamped it to the first channel cut it and welded it so both channels will have the same angle. Then remounted both. I made a wooden jig of the inside of the engine compartment to find the right angle for the inward bend of the channels. Placed it on the engine and channels rechecked all measurements, marked the two channels, made a plywood jig of the angle. Removed, cut, welded, one channel and c-clamped both channels together cut and weld again. Ground the weld down cleaned the channels and painted. I used fender washer under the channel mounts, by changing the size of the washer you can change the angle of the two channels for more or less support. I had 2.5” between the top of the shock and the bottom side of the cargo compartment. The body is on a 1” lift frame. This type of support will probably not fit a GT II without the 1” lift frame. I have not been able to do much lately, as I’m recovering from knee replacement surgery for the past 3 weeks. Because of some wiring error I did not get the body mounted. I bought a Web Cam and trying to get it set up so when I go to mount the body, maybe everyone can watch it live. The Cam is auto tracking so any movement the Cam will face it. Right now there is a little software glitch, A password problem and can’t get outside viewer to watch. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Sept 21, 2009 11:59:07 GMT -5
I had said something about, Several of the other guy said they had drilled holes in that simulated vent to drain the rain water, and another fellow said that started some wheels a turning. I still don’t see why you can’t collect rain water from that simulated vent in the nose, filter the water and collect in the washer reservoir. Sounds like a trick thing to do. My GT-II has the fuel door on top and has access to the washer reservoir. And the simulated vents on the GT-II has the AC unit just under it and makes it harder to drain them to a reservoir. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Aug 27, 2009 6:32:11 GMT -5
doug is there a web site for tilt steering assembly? Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Aug 26, 2009 6:58:41 GMT -5
Braces are mounted, All I need now is to get the body mounted by Sunday This type of brace may not work for everyone. I have the 1” body lift installed and that gives me 2.5” over the top of each shock absorber for clearance for the body. The U channel is 2” wide so that only gives ½” of clearance.
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Aug 24, 2009 11:57:11 GMT -5
[glow=blue,1,300]Great lookin Brad !!!! [/glow]
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Aug 24, 2009 6:07:36 GMT -5
For pictures use the image button, (second row, fourth button ) image [/img]
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Aug 23, 2009 20:08:43 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Aug 23, 2009 19:46:20 GMT -5
With my wife fracturing her knee in two places and with my own med problems. I finally found some time to work back on my Brad GTII. I just about have my sag support about done. I’m painting the supports now, and I hopping to get the body on the chassis this week, as next Monday, Aug 31, I go in the Hospital to get a partial knee replacement. More delays. But with the body on the chassis I can climb in to the Brad and do some minor work.
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Aug 3, 2009 20:47:21 GMT -5
Mrbigh Great look-n Kolor for the Kar ;D I thought you might paint it Electric Blue , But the Kopper is still [glow=blue,2,300][shadow=yellow,left,300]electrifying[/shadow][/glow]Too ! Wyn ;D ;D
|
|
|
Wheels
Jul 24, 2009 20:51:39 GMT -5
Post by Wyn on Jul 24, 2009 20:51:39 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Jul 17, 2009 19:40:01 GMT -5
I gave you one too Big Bob, You have done some great work on your car. Wyn
|
|