|
Post by Wyn on May 1, 2011 23:44:37 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 30, 2011 19:40:10 GMT -5
Since we are at the rear window I thought I would add this ideal I have been working on also. It is a latch and lifting servo for the rear window. The small servo I found is electric with 15 pounds of force it has 4” of travel. It will travel ¾” per second. So the rear window will open in 5 seconds to the 4” of travel. The latch hardware should not be hard to make. The big problem I see with it, It will not work in most GTII’s with a type 1 engine. All of these engine the dog house or fan assembly fills in the area just under the rear window latch. I am using a type 3 engine so there is no dog house to get into the way. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 29, 2011 18:54:09 GMT -5
Thanks for the explanation. Learn something new everyday. Will you be able to operate the signal lights like a scanner, one led at a time? No there are 10 LEDs on each string. every 3rd LED is on the same string. You turn the 1st string off. Then you turn the 2nd string off at the same time you turn the 1st string back on. Then turn the 3rd string off at the same time you and turn the 2nd string back on. You keep the rotation going and you will have the string of marching ants in the lights. Reverse the sequence and they will go the other way. Not hard at all. I have done this with a shift register. But with a computer you can a lot more things with it. Program different time delays, skip links, back dance 1 or 2 steps, random speed changes.
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 29, 2011 16:59:21 GMT -5
You should never run more than one LED per resistor. All LED are 2.2 volt current controlled device. If more than one per resistor, one then could hog the current and burn out. Then the line can avalanche and all LEDs will burn out. 10ma for the regular LEDs and 30ma for the hi bright LEDs. Increase the resistance to lower the current and the brightness. Actually there is more to it. This assembly will be controlled by a stamp computer where each line can be controlled. They will strob right or left depending on which turn I'll be making. And for hazard one line will be off and the other two will shift back and forth. Oh, all three on for the brakes. The computer will be monitoring the electrial system to determine the mode for the lights. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 29, 2011 13:30:39 GMT -5
Another part of the car I have been working on is the third brake light. The 3rd brake light goes right at the upper edge at the rear of the roof. But that need to be reinforced, so I used poster board to dam up a trough on the inside so I could pour in a mix of polyurethane resin with a mix of micro balloons and stripes of fiber glass as fill. After it had harden I drilled 30 5mm holes every ½” along the edge. Then redrilled the holes at .250” 1” deep. Leaving another 1/4 “ of the fill with the 5mm holes. Fitting the plastic rods. Plastic rods are cut to 1 1/10” The 1/10” is work space to be sanded down to be flush with roof surface. Testing each plastic rods for light passage. The LEDs are 30ma high intensity. I used a jig to hold each LED so each resistor could be soldered and each LED wired to the next. In the picture they look like they are lit, but it’s just the reflection of the flash from the camera. They are bright. There are 3 strings of lights, each string draws 300ma, for a total of 900ma of current . Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 28, 2011 17:06:05 GMT -5
I used the E-Z Wining harness with 21 circuits in my GTII. The engine wiring just made it inside the engine compartment. The harness is made for front engine hot Rods. All the wires are color coded and each wire is labeled to its function. Which is fantastic so when it’s been a while before I get back to the wiring, I don’t need to retrace the wiring to figure out where I’m at. There is a 12V keep alive circuit for your Radio memory and anything else that need power when the ignition is off. And that extra fan wire that Jeff mentioned is handy for the Air Conditioner Condenser coil Fan. I had positioned the Condenser under the cargo shelf in the back just over the rear torsion assembly. I have seen where some aftermarket AC installation companies have mounted the condenser at that location in the Bugs. So I had made a shroud so the fan will draw all the air through the condenser. As for the tailgaters I think I place a port just in front of the engine compartment door spoiler, and use bird crap paint balls, you know the black ones with the white crap in them. It should loft it up, just enough to catch the windshields. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 24, 2011 21:23:43 GMT -5
Get the serial number off the transmission, goto thesamba technical section and see what year it was made, you can do the samething with the chassis number it will tell what year and month it was made. The reason for the month VW made mods or upgrades at different months all throught the year. A chassis may or may not have a upgrade. Around 66 to 68 changes in the king pin to ball joint, and swing arm to IRS. Swing arm was 6 volt and IRS is 12 volt which is the different in change of the transmission and the diameter of the flywheel. If that makes any sence to you. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 24, 2011 15:40:46 GMT -5
Gee that is something like installing a type 3 engine and transmission into a type 1 torsion assembly. The later model type 3’s, the one I used was a 73 fastback, there is no rear transmission mounts as is the same as the type 4’s. They were located at the rear of the engine where a cross bar on the engine held the whole assembly in the car. The type 4 transmission may take a few more mods but would install fairly easy. Many of the guys like using them for being heaver and sturdier, have installed in their chassis.
The holes in the transmission were just plugged so a punch did a nice job and a new set of mounts and the whole assembly was mountable. Since I had to built my chassis, the tunnel ended up being 2” lower that a standard bug I had to use universals, One at the transmission and the other just under the ebrake location which were is about 6” to the rear along with the shifter location. Since the shifter shaft at the transmission is metric a little bigger than a half inch I had to bore out one side of the universal and a course that made it weaker so I made a collar and set screw assembly to reinforce the universal.
The bottom line is, as a builder with shallow pockets, I hate to see long shopping list of mega dollar parts when there maybe is a simpler and a cheaper way of doing the job. What I did above was cheaper and easier.
Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 24, 2011 10:23:48 GMT -5
The quick an eazy is to get the transmission and engine and change them both.
Wyn ;D
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 24, 2011 0:57:22 GMT -5
I drew that first lock shield I had in paper to show a little more realistic view of how it should look. Again the placement of the key hole depends on how the shield fits inside the door. Again this is the other drawing of the lock shield for the GT II. This would take a little bit of some fine touch welding to hold the side plates for bracing the key hole. It only uses two of the latch mounting bolts. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 21, 2011 20:59:39 GMT -5
I bought it on Ebay for about $100.00. My son drove to New Jersey to pick it up. The owner said he was going to mount it on a MG chassis and it did not work. Due to the low noise of the GT2 I don’t see how it will fit over any V6 or V8 engine too. Unless you jack it up about 5 to 8 inches in the air. The air box was cut away, the fire wall was cut away, and the sides of the kick panels were cut away. Not much there to patch together again. But I got a lot of the needed hardware to mount the first body. New old stock Seat covers was a big win there, and the GT2 gas tank, extra doors, one rear side window, the rear window glass, no front windshield. All unused.
Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 21, 2011 20:29:39 GMT -5
The door locks on the GT2 is another Bradley screw-up. They do not work!
I have come up with two designs to make them work. The first design is here the other design requires some welding. This design requires a small sheet of 14 Gauge steel. Cut and file to shape and bend as needed. I did it in paper and clipped it to one of the latches to see if it would work.
As you see you need a keyhole for the paddle to hit as locked or pass through unlocked. Before you drill and cut the keyhole get it all mounted and see where the hole is needed for the center pin of the paddle.
Good Luck and let us all know how you did. Or if you made any mods.
Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 21, 2011 10:40:10 GMT -5
I have no dash in my GTII, so no point of reference Buffalobradleygt2 Question: Are you referring to just the instrument cluster panel, or the whole Dash panel? Are these missing? I have both, I could sell one or both if you are in need. The instrument cluster panel has no gauges. They were badly rusted and removed. The Dash panel was removed from the GTE body that was cut up to install on a MG chassis. The Dash panel had a radio installed on the left side of the steering wheel. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 21, 2011 9:49:44 GMT -5
Did you add a LED for the headlight lock switch? (GT 2) Since my switches are illuminated, I wired that switch to light when the lock is on. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 10, 2011 11:31:19 GMT -5
I need to buy interior covering material and I have no eye for matching colors. Does any one have any ideal of colors to use. This is for the inside walls, rear cargo area and head liner. Possibly black or tan carpet. I plan to paint the car in a silver pearl with a candy blue top side. The dash cover is black and seat are new old stock tan, which the upholstery shops say they can not match. One shop wanted $1600 to take my seat covers apart to use as patterns to make new covers with any colors I wanted. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 10, 2011 10:58:07 GMT -5
qqelectriccar I belive this is the pic, as I was also curious as to the seats. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 9, 2011 19:31:10 GMT -5
mrbigh
You have what the drawing shows to use. I removed that rusted stub from rear window of the salvaged GTE body. That rusted stub is the same length as the one removed from the engine cover.
Looks like Bradley was using any striker pin that would work.
What is the length of the one on your engine cover?
Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 9, 2011 10:19:42 GMT -5
Steve Yes that is the small size Bear Claw latch. I had thought the was too large for the pocket the GT2 door frame, but it is not. The Bear Claw latches should slide in nicely from the doors. Looks like it would take very little glass work.
Only one problem the door locking system mounts on the end of the latch assem. It would need to be modify to mount on the side of the latch assem. No big problem for most of us. I still plan to use the VW latches. I just need to make a key hole sheild so I can lock my doors.
I bought the Bear Claws for the engine cover and rear window. I plan to cut out the front tank cover if I do that I'll need another Bear Claw. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 8, 2011 1:18:13 GMT -5
The latch I removed from the salvaged GT2 did not work very good, The newer one seems to operate better. The rust and junk in the latch will make it work hard. Does latch pin rubber guide help to align up the latch system when closing the door? This could make it a little harder to close the door. Also the rubber seals around the doors could be old and hard, it would make it hard to closed the doors. I copied both the Bear Claw and the VW latch to give you a size comparison. The Bear Claw is very good Latch, but I don’t think you will find any better latch system than the VW parts. The Rabbit Latch system should still be available from VW, as it comes from a water cooled vehicle. All parts from the Air cooled vehicles are not available anymore. PN 331 827 505 Latch PN 331 827 511A Pin and guide Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 7, 2011 8:24:48 GMT -5
Where is the body located? Any glass with it. ( front and rear windows ) What about the gull wing doors? Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 6, 2011 15:37:11 GMT -5
Going through the salvage boxes Of the other GT2 I found another striker pin this on a whole lot better shape. I made a couple quick measurements and then ran the down to the machine shop and change the request to just copy the pin for six copies Like I said very badly rusted. Here is the general size if you want to make your own. I had over looked the one drawing which had the pin and latch together. So all the pins are this size. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 5, 2011 23:49:48 GMT -5
Nothing but respect to those who did and still do serve, all branches. Our best friends son is on his first tour now. Same here. Total respect for all branches. My dad was a Msgt in WWII with the 101st airborne, and youngest brother was also a Msgt in the 101st airborne. He was with the group that was 90 miles outside of Baghdad. My youngest daughter is a 2nd LT in the army stationed at FT Bliss, El Paso, Tx. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 4, 2011 23:28:57 GMT -5
Matt
Nice glass pans. I wish I could have used mine on the new chassis. The State of Ohio would not let me register my old chassis because of damage of the Vin number so the glass pans went with it. Since I built the new chassis I had no rear edge of an old pan to mount the glass pans to. The new pan are tissue thin.
Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 4, 2011 23:17:47 GMT -5
The GT2 seats are not made to accept the rail on the bottom. Besides raising the seats 1” you will lose 1” of headroom same as lower the body 1”. Because of the overhang of the GT2 seats they cannot be lowered any more than 1”. Raising the body 2, 3 or 4” does not help as you will need to raise the seat 1,2 or 3” to keep the seat level. Lowering the pan is the same way. Since the seats do not mount to the floor pans, it does no good to lower them. If you use any other seat that is less than 19” wide, Now you can raise the GT2 body or lower the pans any amount you want. On those “L” brackets I drilled extra holes in between the existing holes, that would give me more options to raise and lower seat and give more options to tilt the seat back more. As for the head rest of the seats my head does not rest directly on the head rest, the head rest is in between my head and shoulders. I am 6 foot tall. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 4, 2011 15:45:33 GMT -5
I removed this post from superdave008’s thread and opened this new one. I had recovered two latches from a salvage GT2 but the rear glass striker pin was badly rusted and the other striker pin was missing. Not in too good of shape but may work. As for the engine cover I'll use a Bear claw unit with a lock servo to release it. That Bear claw maybe the best ideal for the rear window too. I would need to make a pin to mount to the window with a 1/2" latching collar mounted or welded to the side to connect to the BearClaw latch. I took the drawings to machine shop today to see what they would charge to make new striker pins. The owner said he would make 6 at $10 ea. So I told him to go ahead and make the six. The pins will be made from ½” round stock and to the length of 2”. If anyone wants one he can have it for cost and shipping. I’m keeping two for myself. I had the rusted pin from the rear glass it looked to be 1” in length, instead of the 2 plus inches of the drawing. Maybe the original GT2 owner had cut the pin down about an inch. This pin was so badly rusted you would not know what was if you had not seen it removed from the window. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 2, 2011 23:58:28 GMT -5
I was a member of a Air Force Combat Missile Crew for the Titan II missile. (BMAT) 4 years I worked for the Air Force as a Test Equipment Repair. Repaired and Calibrated Commercial Test Equipment and computer controlled test stations. 26 years Retired. Worked part time as Computer Repairman in support of Children’s Services for the State of Ohio. 4 years. Worked for SARCOM at their Phone help desk for computer help. 3 years Worked for Cutler Hammer, building up industrial computers. And Last was a driver for the mackerel snapper limousine service where I drove old fogies like myself to the doctors and hospitals. Really retired now.
Hobbies In the 70s I designed Memory Cards for the SouthWest Tech computers. They went around the world. I designed my own computer wrote the Bios and modified program to use in it. Those were the days if you wanted a computer you had to build it, and write your own programs. Helped my Son with soap box derby cars we built 4 of them. Made model airplanes some with RC. Help with the local EAA chapter on building full size airplanes. And I have a Pilot license. Now I just pile it anywere.
When done my Bradley will have 5 computers in it. One main network computer and 4 control computers.
Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Apr 1, 2011 9:00:34 GMT -5
I would leave it under one Bradley GT Facebook forum for all the Bradley's ( Bradley GT1, GT2, GTE and Scorpion ) We have had GT1, GT2, GTE's, dune buggy and even a fantastic Avenger build and Skip's custom GT2 build here on the Bradley Car Club with no problem. Why segregate them we are a small car forum, don't need to make it smaller. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Mar 25, 2011 0:06:41 GMT -5
Thank you guys for the birthday wishes. Leonard I hope your day was as good as mine. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Mar 17, 2011 20:56:32 GMT -5
MJ My foldable walker does not have wheels. It is a pick up and klink down. I have a power scooter I need a trailer made so I can transport it eazier, instead taking it apart to get it in and out of the trunk. Wyn
|
|
|
Post by Wyn on Mar 13, 2011 22:26:13 GMT -5
Everyone who is in need of a GT2 windshield, You need to do a Google search for “ automotive windshield manufacturers “ Go to the third listing and click on the name- "Glass Manufacturers". Don’t click on the link -www.thomasnet.com- as it will take you some ware else. Glass Manufacturers Over 1,600 Glass Companies Search Locally by State or Zip Code www.thomasnet.comGo through and find all the companies in your state check them out and call them and see what they can do for us. I still think Guardian is the answer but I don’t have $50,000. Wyn
|
|