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Post by mwilson on Aug 22, 2011 13:41:22 GMT -5
I bought and installed a Bugspak shifter on my Bradley GT II. This was based on the feedback I saw here and at thesamba.com. I didn't want to spend the $250 on a Berg shifter - the cadillac, and was definitely going to stay away from the EMPI - the Yugo. 3.bp.blogspot.com/-80u4n6whhnc/TlA_nRuzaRI/AAAAAAAAARo/JR360G8FroA/s1600/HPIM0909.JPG Man I love this shifter, the pattern is definitely reduced. However, finding reverse is a challenge. Granted, it was a challenge before with the OEM shifter - not too mention the fact it was painful to shift into reverse, OUCH!! Is this an indication that some of the clutch parts are worn? Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Aug 22, 2011 13:33:54 GMT -5
Dan,
If that's you driving, you're a big dude. I couldn't help but laugh that you're head is coming out of the sunroof, and that's with a 2.5 inch drop.
BTW, you should change your avatar to be a pict of your Bradley! Sweet ride.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 22, 2011 12:38:54 GMT -5
Alright, I have worked on the grounds until I am blue in the face. Everything works, just NOT at the same time. I was most recently attacking the wiring on the hazards again and was faced with the fact that one side will work but if you plug in both sides, they go crazy!! I put a voltmeter on the turn signals and just as I thought, both sides - Left and Right are getting voltage despite which side is being activated by the switch. I pulled the steering column and looked at the switch - it's gotta be 40+ years old. And from looking at the Samba and other sites, this is definitely NOT the original steering column that came with the 1967 chassis I have. So now that I'm done with my rant, is this a common problem? 4.bp.blogspot.com/-SoQgPJI1O3A/TlGwxfUgLLI/AAAAAAAAAR0/5RNBib7XJ4g/s1600/HPIM0910.JPGThanks,
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Post by mwilson on Aug 22, 2011 12:29:21 GMT -5
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Post by mwilson on Aug 15, 2011 22:46:02 GMT -5
Wow! What a great deal for $500. Are the pans still good?
Good luck on your new adventure.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 14, 2011 23:55:24 GMT -5
Since you asked, my actuator is just under 10 inches long. I mounted mine to the outer bulkhead simply because the airbox is very difficult to get in and out of let alone try to tighten a nut on the inside. I used the original bracket that held the original motor, and then mounted a smaller bracket to this so the bracket would take the pressure going both ways. It ended up looking like this: __[__ Two bolts through the outer bulkhead secured it. This bracket already had a hole for the rear of the actuator to go through and be secured with a bolt and lock nut. Here's a pict from my Blog. 1.bp.blogspot.com/-QTt7QYpBPjY/Tj3ruTxEUwI/AAAAAAAAARQ/BpwIR_p-NA0/s1600/HPIM0897.JPGHowever, you can't really see the back of the bracket. Good luck.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 12, 2011 23:53:32 GMT -5
If you do a search for "actuator" on this site, you'll see that quite a few of the experts have already solved this problem. I recently installed mine but used the double relay switch that jbstown has posted elsewhere. It works well. However, it is slower than what I was hoping for. I bought mine from a store on EBay (it was 1/2 the price of what others wanted), it was intended to be for a 24V setup so it's slow but it still works.
Good luck.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 9, 2011 22:45:03 GMT -5
What does it look like? Maybe post a pict?
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Aug 8, 2011 0:10:05 GMT -5
Awesome build, Dan. Love the paint job. I couldn't help but notice your seats. What kind are they?
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Aug 2, 2011 23:43:02 GMT -5
Dan,
Yes, that's true but why did I get bubbles out of the bottom bleeder? That's why I was thinking maybe a 12 o'clock position for bleeding. Is this unusual?
Also, after reading all the posts on how difficult it is to bleed this brake system manually, is there any advantage to buying a pressure bleeder? Lots of folks on the Samba site are swearing by them.
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Jul 31, 2011 0:10:36 GMT -5
The EMPI brakes I have are somewhat different. Yes, the rears are at the 9 o'clock with one bleeder valve on top and take a 9mm wrench. The fronts are also at the 9 position but have two bleeder valves - one on top and one on the bottom and use an 8 mm wrench. Judging from the trouble I've had thus far, it wouldn't surprise me if there wasn't an extra step needed to be done. Of course the lack of any installation guide doesn't help either.
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Post by mwilson on Jul 30, 2011 11:44:08 GMT -5
Sorry but I need to reopen this thread to avoid hijacking the current discussion on brakes elsewhere.
So, with these EMPI disc brakes, do I need to turn the calipers to a 12 o'clock position on the rotors, to bleed them adequately?
Yes, the calipers are mounted correctly with the bleeders on top. (if you've seen the Youtube video where the guy states the calipers are crap, after further investigation, he mounted them wrong.)
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Jul 19, 2011 17:50:21 GMT -5
WooHoo! I took my converted Bradley GT II for a test drive today at 10 mph down the block. The victory was short-lived, I still have a lot to do on this car and get it registered and licensed. You can see the video at: bigredbradley.blogspot.com/
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Post by mwilson on Jul 11, 2011 23:31:42 GMT -5
Zmud,
Awesome job on your Bradley. Looking at yours almost makes me consider getting a regular Bradley in addition to the GT II I already have.
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Post by mwilson on Jul 9, 2011 23:49:26 GMT -5
I just got the U channel I ordered from JC Whitney. I'm working on doing my back window and trunk on my Bradley GT II. Good quality material, too bad the window hinges and gas struts are in the way.
Nothing is easy on this car.
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Post by mwilson on Jul 9, 2011 23:44:39 GMT -5
If it is an addiction, then what would be the cure?
A) A nagging wife B) Opening up your own auto museum and charging admission C) Creating your own Bradley Rental Car Agency D) Tazing yourself every time you saw a car you want to buy (See Dan's Tazer story)
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Post by mwilson on Jul 9, 2011 23:36:30 GMT -5
Very neat setup. I also ran 10 ga wire from the chassis to the bussbars I'm using. I can see where using the terminals is a better idea.
Are you using dielectric grease on the terminals to improve connectivity?
Thanks again
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Post by mwilson on Jul 9, 2011 23:27:39 GMT -5
qqelectricar,
I can't wait to hear what kind of results you get with the Revolt. Too bad they don't make a higher voltage unit yet (156). I hope the amperage is enough to get you where you want to be on acceleration. I've looked at it but haven't compared it to others. The price is right!
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Post by mwilson on Jul 9, 2011 23:23:25 GMT -5
Mrbigh,
I did ask for advice from an EV engineer - Ron Anderson from Black Sheep Technologies. He's very opposed to running DC motors way over their rated voltage as this can lead to a premature death. My original plan was to use the motor from my Sparrow as it's rated for 156V but because the Sparrow motor is very unique and considered undersized for a Bradley he recommended I get an Impulse 9. I'll probably sell the old motor and 120V Curtis controller I have on EV Trading Post to cover some of the costs.
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Jul 9, 2011 12:04:22 GMT -5
BTW,
I finally got my wheels to turn. The 1967 swingaxle was the problem. 12V model assumed, 6V model reality. I had to grind down the flywheel, order a new clutch brake and make an adjustment to the adaptor hub. It works BUT then I noticed the motor is only rated for 96V which means it shouldn't go past 120V. I ordered a new Impulse 9 motor (the last one they had) which can go up to 170V. (I hate to see 36V of lithium sitting around collecting dust when it cost over $100 for each cell.)
Getting close and getting excited. Unfortunately, in WA state, I have to get the car inspected before I can get it licensed.
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Jul 9, 2011 11:55:34 GMT -5
jspbtown,
I can't say enough enough how much I enjoy watching your build and the picts that you post. If you don't mind, I'd really like to see how you do your grounding. I know from other posts that you put them all at one place. I don't think the way I have my busbars set up is working out and would like to see a pict of yours.
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Jul 2, 2011 11:34:04 GMT -5
Which one were you thinking of buying? There are four in the link. I was looking at #2 but noticed it doesn't quite line up with the original plans for the Bradley GT II. The circle was more lopsided. If this works well for you folks, then I'll jump in and order some as well. The dirt and decay on the stripping on my car is prompting me to replace sooner than later.
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Jun 26, 2011 20:21:15 GMT -5
Actually the problem I having is weird. It's like voltage is overflowing into other lights. When the right turn signal is on, the left has one single LED that lights up and the 3rd Brake light now comes on when either turn signal is on. When either turn signal is on, both of the single LED indicators on the dash are lit. They still flash but it's not wired to be like that.
Any ideas?
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Post by mwilson on Jun 26, 2011 20:13:35 GMT -5
I saw this the other day on Youtube www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRJ4UyTEqssThe title is "16 year old builds electric car"....the car just happens to be a Bradley GT II : ) Of course a 96V Lead Sled isn't going to be a racer. But still - good for him.
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Post by mwilson on Jun 24, 2011 16:33:04 GMT -5
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Post by mwilson on Jun 22, 2011 23:26:34 GMT -5
After spending about an hour whittling down this metal piece it didn't work because it wouldn't fit under the pedals.
Here's what did work - a 2 1/4 inch piece of 2X4 wedged between the firewall and the tabs on the bottom backside of the pedals.
OK, probably not a permanent solution but what I need is something using those dimensions.
For the time being, I'm happy.
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Post by mwilson on Jun 22, 2011 21:24:38 GMT -5
Believe it or not the cable is still attached. My wife pushes on the clutch and I can see the cable in the back move - thank God! I'm getting too good at taking this pedal assembly out and in. BTW I LOVE the zip tie idea! Yes, by flopping forward I meant toward me and the seat (which I removed). I see the tabs on the bottom of the pedals but on the old pedals - tabs weren't necessary - probably rusted in place. : ) Another thing to consider is I'm using fiberglass pans which means there are no pedal stop pads. However, I bought this to fix it. www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-2170The only problem is it doesn't fit my 1967 chassis. The main hole is off by 1.5 inches. (Ok, a 1/4 inch is due to the body lift I installed) I do believe I can cut this and mount the pedal stop tab to the fiberglass to make the pedals work. I didn't realize there was so much of a difference between the chassis years. Thanks for all the advice.
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Post by mwilson on Jun 21, 2011 19:20:17 GMT -5
I needed top replace the pedal assembly because the brake pedal wouldn't return right away. I figured it was a bad spring. I called and talked with Cip1 and they didn't sell a replacement spring and I had to buy the whole enchilada. OK, by the looks of things it needed to be done anyway.
Removing the old wasn't too bad. Lots of rust and corrosion. Putting the new in was a little tricky, making sure the clutch pedal didn't flop down and lose connection with the cable. My wife helped by holding the clutch pedal in place while I connected the cable up in the rear. Even though the brake pedal works great, (so does the gas pedal), the clutch pedal wants to flop forward to the floor.
Do I have the clutch adjusted too tightly?
Did I miss a step in the installation?
Is there a way to set the pedal travel distance on the assembly?
BTW, it's an EMPI kit and just like all EMPI stuff I had to cut an area to be able to install the new gas pedal.
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Post by mwilson on Jun 19, 2011 0:09:42 GMT -5
Roger that!
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Jun 18, 2011 17:13:05 GMT -5
Alright, I wired it in and yes the tail lights work. But, the odd thing is when I turn on the parking lights I have no flashers. Dumb question for the day - I wired the trailer converter to the rear end only, should it have gone to the front and controlled the entire system?
Thanks,
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