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Post by mwilson on Dec 5, 2011 13:51:41 GMT -5
Dan,
You're right, I haven't had it aligned yet. Assuming that the repair shop I plan on taking to knows what they are doing, is there something significant that needs to be said when aligning a 1967 VW chassis?
I added a dead 50lb Optima battery right on top of the chassis hump, directly behind my live battery pack. This seems to help quite a bit. The weight is right on the center of the chassis but not on the body.
My tires are at 35 psi.
Thanks,
Matt
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Post by mwilson on Dec 2, 2011 19:01:08 GMT -5
jspbtown,
Good point! I didn't lower my car, I raised it three inches. I just couldn't stand having my head hit the ceiling. I know that usually lifting a car will effect the center of gravity when the car turns, but how does it effect the distribution of weight?
BTW, I have coil over shocks on the car.
Thanks,
Matt
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Post by mwilson on Dec 2, 2011 17:21:42 GMT -5
I've read where a few folks have added weight, as much as 120 lbs to the front end of their GT II. I am experiencing some of the effects of a lighter front end. If I hit snow, ice, water, etc, it feels like I lose control temporarily.
My situation is I have already added approx 120 lbs of batteries and metal frame to the front end where the gas tank would be because my car is 100% electric.
I would really like to see how and where folks added weight to their front ends, pictures please? : )
Thanks,
Matt
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Post by mwilson on Oct 6, 2011 22:20:53 GMT -5
I just came back from Vegas where they had a DeLorean and they were charging folks to get their picture taken in it. It really doesn't look as good as a Bradley GT!!
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Post by mwilson on Sept 28, 2011 23:56:18 GMT -5
My interior is dark gray so black tint would probably not have the impact of silver. Most tint comes in a roll that barely covers half of the back window of a GT II. I have stick and peel on the back now just to keep the sun out. As far as height goes, the bigger the better, almost covering the entire window. Maybe use the same logo as what's on the hood, only set at a 45 degree angle.
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Sept 28, 2011 23:48:24 GMT -5
I like the black one on the first attachment. Any idea of the cost?
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Sept 26, 2011 22:50:01 GMT -5
Against it. I think spoilers are like guys that drive big trucks! You what I mean..trying to prove something.
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Post by mwilson on Sept 25, 2011 19:40:29 GMT -5
Can you do a large one for the back window out of tint film? Silver?
That would be very cool. How much $$, PM me if you can.
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Sept 19, 2011 21:44:12 GMT -5
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Post by mwilson on Sept 19, 2011 21:36:34 GMT -5
No, I bought a 12V swingaxle not an IRS.
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Post by mwilson on Sept 18, 2011 18:55:49 GMT -5
Pictures?? We like to see pictures. : )
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Post by mwilson on Sept 18, 2011 18:54:48 GMT -5
I'm in Cle Elum. I looked all around and really only found two that would rebuild. All this talk is water under the bridge now since I went ahead and ordered a Freeway Flyer from a shop down in CA. If you know anyone that might be interested in buying my busted 6V for a core let me know. I can always use a drive to the coast.
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Sept 18, 2011 0:10:26 GMT -5
Wyn,
Exactly what I was thinking. (Great minds think alike!) I found a 12V Freeway Flyer, rebuilt, for $550. +$100 for new axles. Too bad I have to eat the $200 core charge, still I think it's a good deal.
I'm hoping to see if anyone in the area wants to buy my old 6V so I can recoup some of the core charge. Otherwise, it's going to the dump!
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Post by mwilson on Sept 16, 2011 19:43:56 GMT -5
I drained the transaxle before I took it out last night. Since I had done this before, when I replaced the tranny mounts, I had put in new synthethic oil. The oil I took out last night was pitch black with pretty shiny flakes in it - this is not good! The large clump of metal stuck to the magnet on the drain plug was also not good.
I have spent the better part of the week trying to track down if anyone will rebuild or has a transaxle I can swap for. (looked on EBay, Craig's list, phone directories, aircooled VW shops in WA) There's only one guy I found in WA that will do it, ($700) everyone else usually orders their trannys from elsewhere and are predicting a 3-4 week delay. And the rebuilder isn't even sure he can rebuild it because it's a 6V and parts are getting hard to find.
The large businesses that do have them in stock are for the most part expensive, total cost with shipping and core charge $1,000+. Today I finally found someone with a 12V Freeway Flyer in stock, with new axles (and the core charge) the total price was a little more than the rebuild price. Of course they are located in CA and I'll have to spend $80 for shipping. But at least I'll finally have my car in working order. Then I can enjoy it for a little while before the winter blows in.
I'd much rather drive my Bradley GT than my Saturn.
Gary, Yes, you can start in any gear but it isn't advised to do so. Not so much the torque but the amps you suck to get moving. If you've built your EV with 300 Amp fuses, starting in 4th could really pop those fuses leaving you high and dry for a while. Racers will use 1000 amp fuses which are expensive.
On occasion if no one is behind me, I'll start in second and gradually speed up to save a shift. The only difference in shifting an EV is you should let off the accelerator before you shift. That's if you have retained the clutch, some folks go clutchless. I kept the clutch in mine because I have a lot of hills and like to glide down them to save energy.
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Post by mwilson on Sept 13, 2011 23:27:38 GMT -5
No doubt about it, it's a 6V swingaxle. The year is irrelevant. I'm looking to see what kind of advice I can get from the folks who do this sort of thing based on my observations. The closest VW repair shop is one hour's drive away.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Post by mwilson on Sept 12, 2011 21:57:36 GMT -5
OK, I've replaced the shift rod bushing, the shifter but still it pops out of third and now it won't find reverse when I start but later, after I run awhile it finds reverse but won't find 2nd - it grinds. I'm guessing I need a rebuild?
In addition it groans and vibrates from the rear passenger side. Everything I've read points to a bad wheel bearing.
BTW, it's a 1967 6V swingarm transaxle
Any comments?
Thanks
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Post by mwilson on Sept 12, 2011 21:48:51 GMT -5
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Post by mwilson on Sept 3, 2011 22:04:41 GMT -5
Agreed. I must have misread the post. Sorry.
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Post by mwilson on Sept 3, 2011 21:50:26 GMT -5
Finally, the answer to my LED woes: Resistors. If you recall, the brake lights and parking lights would cancel out the signals. I read somewhere that this might work. I bought these 50 W/6ohm resistors on EBay for $20 includes shipping and now it all works. I had to install one on the right turn signal, left turn signal and the 3rd brake light. 3.bp.blogspot.com/-_CkN0-6KHVA/TmLiFaNlz7I/AAAAAAAAASo/SuhA49ut6LA/s1600/HPIM0941.JPGThese do get hot, so don't mount to plastic. I'll probably clamp them onto the metal support bar that's next to them. Thanks for everyone's help.
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Post by mwilson on Sept 3, 2011 21:43:41 GMT -5
jspbtown, I hate to debate this with you since I'm pretty much a newbie, and I really appreciate the advice you've given me but I managed to get my Bradley GT II Seats to work. Granted I had to toss out the adjuster rails and cut an inch off one of the sides but they do work. Using your idea, I added a strip pf metal to secure the L brackets. 3.bp.blogspot.com/-HLgWYSh10a8/Tl7ZsLZkrzI/AAAAAAAAASY/DiZrrGxH-ZM/s1600/HPIM0937.JPGGranted, I have a skinny butt but with the 3 inch lift I put in, I now have plenty of headroom. Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Aug 31, 2011 11:01:04 GMT -5
Do you happen to remember what wiper arms you used?
Thanks,
PS Nice Avatar!
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Post by mwilson on Aug 30, 2011 18:32:54 GMT -5
Cip1 sent the new turn signal switch, I installed and it solved the voltage flowing over to both right and left signals at the same time. At least one problem is solved.
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wipers
Aug 29, 2011 23:53:49 GMT -5
Post by mwilson on Aug 29, 2011 23:53:49 GMT -5
Good idea! I just got my wipers to work today. I had to remove the motor to discover that the wiring was all jacked up, that's why none of the standard wiring would work. I put it back in and for the time being I have one speed. I couldn't help but notice how much of an eye sore the passenger side wiper is. I also noticed the wiper arms are starting to rust.
Mrbigh, what are you using for a wiper arm?
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Aug 27, 2011 22:26:43 GMT -5
If anyone is going to do this and is a virgin like me, (blushing cheeks) you need to put the bushing into the support brace first! That's the ring end toward the shifter. It just pops into place. (I wish I would've seen a visual on that.) Then slide the shift rod through the bushing.
Yes, I wasted time and blood trying to put the rod in with the bushing already on.
I just tested my new Bugspak shifter - AWESOME!!! Huge difference, I'm 99% assured of hitting reverse without pain. : )
Thanks everyone.
PS I bought an EMPI coupler and it didn't work, the two posts aren't wide enough for the shift rod to go through. At least I got to use the bushings. EMPI sucks!
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Post by mwilson on Aug 27, 2011 10:25:33 GMT -5
Dan,
Good to know but I'm thankful I took mine out through the front. Huge amount of grime, dirt, rust on the shift rod. I used some PB Blaster and a wire brush attachment on the drill to clean it up. Nice and shiny now. Headed out the door to buy a new bushing and coupler. : )
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Post by mwilson on Aug 25, 2011 12:40:55 GMT -5
I'm active duty Air Force, been deployed to Iraq and Kuwait. Also was a music teacher in the public schools for 10 years (BA and Master's). Still do music and in the thick of my first Bradley GT II electric rebuild.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 25, 2011 12:32:43 GMT -5
jspbtown,
Great advice, even in hindsight. I'll keep that in mind for my next build. : )
Since I'm going to be in the thick of it, what else should I look for?
Thanks,
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Post by mwilson on Aug 25, 2011 11:54:02 GMT -5
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Post by mwilson on Aug 22, 2011 19:07:35 GMT -5
jspbtown,
Yes I see the three wires but something is screwy with the switch, it shouldn't send voltage to both sides regardless of which side is selected. I too have a relay set up with a toggle on my dash. I set it up according to your wiring advice mentioned previous. It works well but not on both sides at the same time.
I sent the pict to cip1 to see if they can advise me to which replacement I need.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 22, 2011 18:59:25 GMT -5
Jspbtown,
Yes, the plate came with it and the old was very worn. The directions said to install the new plate with the ramp to the right, find reverse, tap the plate forward slightly then tighten the bolts.
Smyrnaguy, I'll look into the bushings.
Thanks,
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