|
Post by mwilson on Jun 16, 2011 0:14:38 GMT -5
Steve,
It all depends on which side of the mountains you live on, getting plenty of sunshine over here in Cle Elum, Ellensburg area! (I used to live over there at one point - you need webbed feet to get along) : )
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Jun 16, 2011 0:05:08 GMT -5
Your wiring rat's nest looks like what mine used to. I had broken fuses, wiring all over the place, it really was a huge mess.
It takes a lot of patience - that's for sure. I'm almost done with mine - used an EZ Wire 21 circuit harness.
Good luck.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Jun 16, 2011 0:00:18 GMT -5
jsbptown,
You're the man! I got it using your trouble-shooting steps. My Bradley didn't have any backup lights installed when I bought it. Works now. Another item on the list bites the dust.
Thanks,
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Jun 14, 2011 23:35:21 GMT -5
BTW it's a 1967 swingaxle.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Jun 14, 2011 23:34:05 GMT -5
Alright, first I tried to hook up the old switch and you guessed it, it didn't work. So I bought a new one. It don't work either. Yes, I tried it with the switch out of the transaxle. For some reason, the transaxle isn't making contact with the switch.
I'm guessing this is a common problem, like the brake switch.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Jun 6, 2011 0:32:23 GMT -5
Thanks jspbtown!
I found one on EBay for $13.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Jun 6, 2011 0:28:48 GMT -5
Per Washington State Dept of Transportation:
Window Tinting / Sunscreening
* Sunscreening devices are products, permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary, which reduce the adverse effects of the sun. RCW 46.37.430
* Materials not permitted o Mirror finish products o Red, Yellow, Gold, or Black material o Brushed or sprayed on material. RCW 46.37.430 * Sunscreening devices and/or recreational products may not be applied to, or suspended between the driver and the windshield, or to the windows to the immediate right and left of the driver. Recreational products may be applied to other windows only if they do not interfere, by their size and/or position with the driver's ability to see other vehicles, persons, and objects. RCW 46.37.430
* Must have both left and right side-view mirrors if window tinting is applied, allowing a 200' view to the rear. RCW 46.37.430
* The maximum level of sunscreening material to be applied to any window, except the windshield, shall have a total reflectance of 35% or less, and a light transmittance of 24% or more. RCW 46.37.430
* Exemption - Doctor's orders. RCW 46.37.430 A greater degree of sunscreening may be applied to the top 6" of the windshield. RCW 46.37.430
Notice the rule for 6"?
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Jun 2, 2011 0:28:31 GMT -5
As much as I like the tint across the windshield idea, I'm pretty sure that's a "no go" in Washington state. Just looked it up - Tinting is limited to a 35% and nothing on the windshield.
Baseball cap or visor for me.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Jun 1, 2011 0:21:40 GMT -5
I just read through the post above. Thanks for posting. I need one for my build but will this work since I am running all LEDs?
In the Ready to Rewire thread Jbstown suggested a particular converter that includes an adapter for LEDs.
I'm sure someone has done this before.
Thanks,
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 30, 2011 17:58:36 GMT -5
How does one wire the Stop Turn Tail lights? Every combination seems to throw something out of whack. I have LED, with three wires - Red, Black and white. White goes to ground, all my turn signals are wired for black. So where do the park and brake wire connect?
Thanks,
Matt
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 30, 2011 17:51:37 GMT -5
Since I've removed the headliner piece to wire a dome light, I can't help but think that any sunvisor will more than likely have to be a simple flip down on a couple hinges. The headliner is very flimsy and there really isn't room for the standard hardware to work. The other day, I saw some flip down visors that are meant to attach to existing sunvisors that were tinted like dark sunglasses. Hmmm....
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 30, 2011 0:12:36 GMT -5
My Bradley GT II doesn't have any sunvisors. Looking through the original plans I don't see any mentioned or in any pictures. If you have some, what type works best?
Thanks,
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 27, 2011 18:33:28 GMT -5
LT - left tail, LF - left front park lights - I was told to do this by the EZ Wire Tech. And yes, both wires are then joined into one tab of the standard 4 prong relay which should be turned on by the toggle switch on the dash. The other side of the relay has the Hazard power wire which feeds the two spliced wires.
Thanks,
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 26, 2011 21:45:09 GMT -5
I have spliced into the LT Park and LF Park (on a standard GM headlight switch) and ran those wires to an additional hazards relay, the relay is activated by a toggle switch on the dash. Yes, the hazards work but now if I use the turn signals, it automatically starts the hazards. What am I missing?
Thanks,
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 23, 2011 8:18:36 GMT -5
I'm using the EZ Wiring kit - 21 circuit harness.
I should probably have said turn signals and hazards instead.
Using a 1967 steering column. I got the turn signal wiring figured out. How the hazards flow into the turn signals is what's stumping me, the original hazard switch was on the dash not the column. So I have a toggle switch on the dash ready to wire up.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 22, 2011 23:19:47 GMT -5
I tried that but no luck. Then I figured out the wiper power wire isn't getting any power at all.
Here's what works: Headlights, Brights, fog lights, dash lights, speedo lights, cig lighter, horn, brake lights, indicators
Here's what doesn't work: Hazards, Flashers (yes, I have the electronic flasher fuses), back-up lights (there weren't any on the car to begin with, so I'm guessing the switch in the transaxle is bad), and wipers. I haven't installed the defroster yet.
So far this has cost me about five 15 amp fuses - not too bad.
The fact this car is going electric and using a 1967 VW steering column is really making it a challenge.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 21, 2011 16:52:50 GMT -5
Too bad its in NYC!!!! I'm only on the other side of the continent.
I'm sure someone will jump on it.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 21, 2011 16:49:56 GMT -5
The problem is I'm not using any of the switches that are listed on the Samba site discussion. My colors don't match the ones in the diagram and I guess I'll just use trial and error or, in the worse case scenario, punt and buy one of the switches that are in the discussion site.
Thanks,
Matt
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 16, 2011 22:45:28 GMT -5
Since we are on this topic... I'm finally into the dash. My question is in regards to wiring the wiper motor to the switch. I have bought a new switch with two speeds. I have four wires coming out of the wiper motor - Black, green, blue and yellow. The VW diagrams I can find, only show three and they aren't those colors. From what I can tell the black wire is low speed and the yellow is high speed. The blue might be spliced into the power source, but what to do with the green???
Thanks,
Matt
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 10, 2011 0:35:00 GMT -5
Wyn,
On the Window latch and servo. I'm guessing you're making the latch assembly yourself. Maybe, you can make two and let me buy one? Is 15lbs enough lift? Either my window seems pretty heavy, or I'm getting old and weak!!
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 10, 2011 0:02:29 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 9, 2011 11:52:32 GMT -5
One more question, please. I bought a headlight switch that calls for a "dome return." How do you wire that?
Thanks, I appreciate your help.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 8, 2011 21:09:10 GMT -5
Just curious, what switch are you using and where did you put it? My Bradley didn't have a switch.
Thanks,
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 8, 2011 21:01:21 GMT -5
After much research on the internet, and not wanting to use asphalt in my car, I decided to buy some RAAMmat to help sound proof my Bradley GT II. The 15X15 panels are very sticky and easy to put down on any surface. These are 60 mils thick but still are able to conform to the surface underneath without using a roller. They cut easily enough with a fresh razor in a utility knife. I could instantly tell a difference by thumping on the fiberglass panel. Next I applied the thin foam or Mass Volume Load. This was easier to apply than the mat. My thump now transformed into a thud. Last, I used some spray adhesive to stick on the carpet. I am pleased with the cost and effectiveness of the product. I'm looking forward to driving the car soon and will be able to tell just how much of a difference it has made. I know many are using other products but from what I have looked at this was the best choice for me. 3.bp.blogspot.com/-7xsPmriPgUk/TcdAUhtK6kI/AAAAAAAAAO4/qT0UD_5qg68/s1600/DSCF1854.JPG4.bp.blogspot.com/-OtPGNvTBXBY/TcdAZa00k5I/AAAAAAAAAO8/y-tJjSKGk3s/s1600/DSCF1856.JPG
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on May 8, 2011 0:27:15 GMT -5
Well, looks like I put a lot of $$ into something that's "not intended for street use." So far, they seem to be working quite well.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Apr 28, 2011 23:25:28 GMT -5
I just put together an electric heater for my GT II. I haven't installed yet, but I have tested it. Since my Bradley will be an EV, the main power for the ceramic heaters will be 156V. The fans are from a marine business and they blow 220 CFM. 4.bp.blogspot.com/-ps6F5Jd0iNM/TaJqgaVmGXI/AAAAAAAAANk/YR0t9_n4mpI/s1600/DSCF1829.JPGAnother Bradley GTE owner has 12V ceramic heaters in his, but he lives in CA and I live in WA. Big difference between the two climates. The coolblue is intended to plug into an existing AC unit that was in the car previously. So to build this from scratch would be expensive. I own their Bluewindow and I have to say, they are nice folks to deal with.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Apr 27, 2011 22:24:29 GMT -5
Dan,
Thanks for the history, I'll definitely plan on wiring both switches.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Apr 27, 2011 22:17:53 GMT -5
Soaking the car behind reminds me of how I used to get into trouble in high school for soaking guys on the street with a water fire extinguisher. Not the same application and definitely off topic, but nevertheless-funny!!!! With today's road rage out of control, I'd be careful.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Apr 27, 2011 22:02:38 GMT -5
I just replaced all my brake lines with steel braided lines, adapters and couplers from JEGs. All were bubble flared. Install was very easy. Yes, it was expensive but compared to what was there before, priceless.
|
|
|
Post by mwilson on Apr 26, 2011 23:04:54 GMT -5
I tried junk yards and even a specialty VW junk yard in the Seattle area with no luck. I ended up calling a machinist friend to reproduce the "grease seal." I now own about 6 of them. So if anyone should need one...I can help you out.
Thanks,
|
|