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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 14, 2013 19:13:46 GMT -5
Have you separated the hot and cold sides of the engine? At high speeds the turbulence in the engine bay can severely affect the airflow to the fan inlet. Do you have a stock fan shroud and pulleys? Are your thermostat flaps installed? Is the bellows working? Are the lower cyl tins in place as well as the sled tins that bolt to the sides of the oil pan/engine block? Is airflow still connected to the heat exchangers? {J tubes increase heat by not helping to cool off the heads the way heat exchangers do.} The location of your temp sender will give a cooler reading than normal. The velocity ring was never intended to be used on a 1600 based engine. What temp are you reading at high speed? Can you check the oil without getting burnt after a high speed run? Post some pics of your engine bay. I have the original Bradley shelf in place to separate the hot/cold sides. I have all of the factory tin in place although the crank pulley is aftermarket. The thermostat & flaps are installed but looks like the thermostat has failed. I did check the linkage travel though and the flaps are stuck open. The lower tin is all in place. I'm running 210 degrees at 70mph or slower. If I got to 75 or 80mph it'll start heating up pretty quickly...I've pulled over or slowed down when it does but it has been to 240. This is the Venturi Ring I put on...why do you say it isn't intended for 1600 engines? I've taken an IR temp gun with me the last couple of times & temps at the sending unit on the filter housing and on the block seem to be consistent with each other. I don't think the filter housing is any cooler than the block. The engine... Thermostats generally fail in the cold engine position causing hi temps. Is the crank pulley stock diameter or is it a power pulley? The increased air speed at lower pressure into the fan does not translate into more air volume out. . Could be the dual carbs. In Beetles the engine cover is opened at the top as dual carbs steal too much of the available cooling air.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 22:57:46 GMT -5
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 22:44:45 GMT -5
Compare it to a quality piece of furniture. Cheap furniture is screwed or nailed together, quality is screwed an glued. Your choice, you can do it once the right way or do it twice by cutting corners.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 22:40:30 GMT -5
No amount of screws will stop it from cracking.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 22:38:06 GMT -5
Where is the Bradley part?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 22:27:25 GMT -5
As the body and top are 2 separate pieces they will always want to move in relation to each other. Bondo will crack in no time. You need to bond the pieces together with glass and resin.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 22:24:36 GMT -5
It has no strength
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 22:13:44 GMT -5
If you get rid of it DO NOT USE bondo type fillers. I must be aggressively roughened up and filled with either fiberglass matt and resin or a top quality short strand fiberglass filler.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 22:01:07 GMT -5
Have you separated the hot and cold sides of the engine? At high speeds the turbulence in the engine bay can severely affect the airflow to the fan inlet. Do you have a stock fan shroud and pulleys? Are your thermostat flaps installed? Is the bellows working? Are the lower cyl tins in place as well as the sled tins that bolt to the sides of the oil pan/engine block? Is airflow still connected to the heat exchangers? {J tubes increase heat by not helping to cool off the heads the way heat exchangers do.} The location of your temp sender will give a cooler reading than normal. The velocity ring was never intended to be used on a 1600 based engine. What temp are you reading at high speed? Can you check the oil without getting burnt after a high speed run?
Post some pics of your engine bay.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 6:41:23 GMT -5
It is not us, I would never ruin a good joke. It is proboards forum that does it. Must be based out of south-eastern and south-central USA.
Try to figure out these censored words thingypit thingy f**koff girl thingy cat not a very nice person thingyfight thingy pregnant dog thingysucker dogf**ker girl thingy Each of the above is a different word or term but the board only has so many substitutions, therefore we get duplicates. Makes it hard to translate.
It is stupid, you can mention blowjobs, anal sex and bastards all you want but you cannot mention the control room of an airplane, a rooster or a baby cat.
There are many words that this board censors and substitutes.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 13, 2013 5:44:49 GMT -5
New wallpaper for the igloo gives me something to look forward to, summer/hot babes and flying. Maybe I need to move my igloo
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 12, 2013 21:05:44 GMT -5
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Sept 26, 2013 20:03:10 GMT -5
Vw vac lines are always sized. Small port on drivers side goes to small port on dist [adv]. big port on back of carb to big dist port [retard, if you have a dual vac dist] all others get plugged.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Sept 26, 2013 19:52:31 GMT -5
All glass is made only for the gt2. Every piece other than the windshield can be replaced with flat safety glass. The rear glass can be flat but the holes in in must be made before it is tempered. Plexi will work but scratches easily. Glass can be secured with Silicone as ti wont fit quite righy into the rubbers. plexi must be bolted.
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Brace:
Sept 26, 2013 19:45:34 GMT -5
Post by Dan MacMillan on Sept 26, 2013 19:45:34 GMT -5
"Sorry if I offended you somehow, I just want to see what other people HAVE done. It's not personal. I know you know what your talking about and I love your car. You're not wrong. But you're not telling me anything I don't already know. "Get stuff and make something" isn't what I had in mind. I've had to learn so much about this car in the 2 months I've had it. Every little bit of information I get is going to benifiet everyone here who needs to know. Not all of us are engineers. "
Not rocket science. Bracing the body is easy and straight forward for the front weld a 1x1/4 flat bar to a muffler clamp that fits around the lower torsion tube, bolt the other end to the wooden body former, one for each side. For the rear same flat bar from rear upper shock mount to rearmost side of rear seat, use big washers against the fiberglass. I did mine but the info is of no use to you unless you go mid engine Subaru.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Sept 10, 2013 19:48:22 GMT -5
The handling on these cars is easy to dial in to be the best handling car you have ever driven. You need zero play front and rear. Adjust the front torsion leafs to account for the lack of weight, quite easy to do as long as you can weld {no parts or adjuster kits required} adjust the rear torsion bars to lower the rear height and the rear camber. Avoid gas shocks and stay away from urethane bushings, only genuine rubber parts. Install a new steering damper.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Sept 1, 2013 14:29:27 GMT -5
Thanks, it was an accident
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Sept 1, 2013 8:15:36 GMT -5
Some tips on the tank.
Clean it with hot water and washing soda first. I stuck my ghia tank in the BBQ and boiled it with the washing soda mix. This gets rid of the sludge and varnish.
Build an electolysis cleaner to take out the rust. It is very simple. You need a 12v battery, a hd battery charger, booster cables and a piece of scrap steel that will fit into the sending unit hole without touching the tank. Square tubing or rebar works well. Arm and hammer washing soda {NOT BAKING SODA}.
Plug all tank openings except the sending unit hole.
Insulate one end of the scrap steel with rubber or bolt a piece of wood to the end that extends about an inch.
Place the scrap steel into the tank send unit hose so it reaches the bottom. Insulate around the opening so the scrap steel can never touch the tank.
Mix water and soda at a ratio of 5 gallons water to 1/3 to 1/2 cup laundry soda. Mix well so all soda is dissolved. Fill the tank with this all the way to the top.
Using the battery cables connect the neg battery post to the tank and the pos post to the scrap steel. This is most important or the process will reverse and you will transfer rust onto the tank. Also connect the charger to the battery.
It will shortly start producing bubbles. It may take a few days but when it is done it will be rust free and look black.
This is the stage when you can start with your tank sealing kit.. Should you choose not to seal the tank simply drain it, dry it, and coat the inside with a coat of oil. This will prevent any further rusting until the tank is filled with fuel. The residual oil will mix with the first tank of fuel but will not be a problem.
Safety - Turn off the current before making adjustments to the setup. Just as a "spark" can cause a charging battery to explode in your face, this process produces similar gases because this process splits water into hydrogen gas (at the negative electrode) and oxygen at the positive electrode). - Hydrogen will burn explosively if ignited. All flames, cigarettes, torches, etc. must be removed from the area, and sparks caused by touching the leads together must be avoided. The work should be performed outside or in a well ventilated area to remove these gases safely. - Washing soda solutions are alkaline and will irritate the skin and eyes. Use eye protection and gloves. Immediately wash off any solution spilled or splashed onto your body.
The brown crap and water are safe to dispose of on your lawn or the wifes flower garden, just avoid her ornamental shrubs. They may not like iron rich alkaline water.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 31, 2013 17:19:16 GMT -5
Went to ribfest today. Lots of rides but only one Bradley. Got lots of compliments. The majority {approx. 300} of people that talked to me had never heard of one and were eager to learn.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 30, 2013 7:45:09 GMT -5
After cleaning you can go a step further and remove any internal rust through electrolysis. It is very simple and effective
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 29, 2013 15:59:25 GMT -5
The engine is a type 3
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 29, 2013 8:17:06 GMT -5
Linear act are pretty standard. You need one with a 4" travel. If you search my build threads you will find the automatic/conversion wiring diagram.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 27, 2013 8:35:31 GMT -5
Drain it, fill it with hot water and 3 cups of washing soda, Put it in the BBQ and boil it for a few hours. Worked well for me. IMPORTANT NOTE: Unless you have my wife {she suggested it}, don't let her know.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 18, 2013 9:56:00 GMT -5
Newbie here so bare with me. IF you were to do a mod to the gt2 windshield to a close fitting one it would cost around 1000(fiberglass/windshield/areal paint job/weather sealing) where i live. which is more than buying the original one but if it were to break again or get a hairline split it would only cost 200ish. therefore i would save around 500 bucks every time i had to replace it. i know the scenario sounds unlikely but i'm just putting it out there. thats the way i see it. You forgot one important detail. As the existing windshields get used up, the cost will increase while availability will decrease. Also depending on the location of any remaining windshields the shipping can be very high MURPHY"S LAW states that when ever you install a new windshield it will get damaged within the first 3 months. Used windshields are exempt from this law.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 18, 2013 9:51:49 GMT -5
I check in at least twice a day. Just not working on anything of interest.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 15, 2013 16:52:18 GMT -5
As long as you are moving you can shift through all gears as necessary. Just match the engine speed with the trans speed. Shift to neutran then to the gear you want. When you cone to a stop shift to neutral first and then shut it off. When ready to go put it in first gear THEN start it up.
Not the reverse lights. If they short they will blow the reverse fuse. If there is no fuse it will kill the ignition by burning the power to coil wire, The starter will not be affected. If the main trans to chassis ground is bad it will crank better when the clutch is depressed. This eventually heats the cable enough to stretch it and will break if you keep adjusting it. Stepping on the clutch pushes the crankshaft back. How is the end play on your engine? Clutch out of adjustment will cause your problem. Bad #1 crank bearing will also cause it as the crack moves back then off to the side. When the starter engages it causes the flywheel teeth to contact the transmission mount bolts. Possible random incident as a result of a bad starter bushing. Dont forget that starters have a bushing at each end.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 13, 2013 21:57:34 GMT -5
Coolers are not needed up here in my igloo. I have 3 300w heaters.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 13, 2013 18:49:31 GMT -5
What are you using for filtration? 55 gal sump located in the laundry room, 2 rooms away. 180 gal skimmer. Live rock, one hob on each tank as backup. The main tank has an electronic high water monitor {looks for conductivity between 2 probes} and will shut down the sumps pump if something goes wrong. Water is pumped out of second tank into main with bridge as return. This way should the bridge fail I get no water on the floor, it simply returns to the sump. If the return to sump fails the sumps pump shuts down and the water from the second tank will recirculate through the main tank and back. Again no water lost.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 12, 2013 22:38:40 GMT -5
Is anyone here into salt water aquariums? I am in the process of bridging two 55gal tanks. This hobby is addicting
The beginning.
The inhabitants of my main tank.
Preparing to bridge
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 12, 2013 22:19:15 GMT -5
Not hiding, I check in twice a day to check up on things, not working on anything of interest.
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