|
Post by skip20 on Sept 10, 2012 9:16:08 GMT -5
Hey, we better got the fix for this when he finds it!!!!!!
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 10, 2012 8:51:02 GMT -5
This AM I laid up the R/R lower fender edge as I can't find the pieces that broke off with the dolly trick up in PA. I have all four corners molds if anybody need to repair theirs. This is the latest project. Got the solar panels from HF cost $229.00 per set of 3 to make 45 watts. On sale w/ the 20% off came to $136.00, so got 2 sets. May put one set on top of the Bradley so I can play the radio! ;D Will be making larger ones this winter.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 9, 2012 15:45:48 GMT -5
I remember seeing also, no Idea how long ago, CRS you know! They say a picture is a thousand words, But can't remember the words.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 9, 2012 15:44:42 GMT -5
Good call on my miss Skip! Hee-Hee ;D ;D and I don't even work on VW!
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 9, 2012 15:41:52 GMT -5
I have the COMPLETE dash less H/L switch.\ PM me
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 9, 2012 9:00:47 GMT -5
Was able to fins a turn buckaroo at HF for the overhead wrench so now the body won't run around. But I do lose 3" ! And here is my GA junk yard find.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 8, 2012 20:59:47 GMT -5
The only ways in my mind that it can run at a high RPM and not slow down is if the butterfly valve in the carb is not closing or there is a leak in the manifold, or an unconnected vacuum line is not plugged (or a connected vacuum line is leading somewhere open to the atmosphere) or the carb is missing some major components. If those can be eliminated, then I am also bewildered. Warmest Regards..... Don't forget the carb base gaskets & spacers. You can spray carb cleaner around any area which you think there is a leak, if the engine RPM changes then you found your leak!
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 7, 2012 14:00:59 GMT -5
Down here in Duluth, GA for the week end,classes for my engraving business. Have already hit all 3 Pull-A-Parts & found the ,89 Supra R&P to replace the '87 model. The Subaru Steering Col will bolt up to the '89. Also same spoiler as on the yellow one & a pair of Mustang side scoops '87. was able to pull out the rear side panels & get the scoops out w/o removing the seats. 15 mins for both sides,
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 2, 2012 14:28:06 GMT -5
Got a little more done today. VERY Dusty!!! On the inside grind down the undercoating, used resin filler in the low spots & applied 3 - 4 layers around the scoop, 6 by the door lip. You can see the light area where the undercoat was remove. Also glassed the plywood brace which had ripped off from the body As long as I was full of gel coat, undercoating & fiberglass may as will do the rocker panel from the A** H*L* that helped put the car on the dolly. There was just a gel coat crack in the center, 3 small cracks on the bottom & front wheel well flair broken off. Can't find the part for the rear bottom flair, but I have made molds of all 4 of them when I way building the Motorcycle Trike Body's. So grind a "V" groove In the middle of of the damage & removed the gel coat about 2" around it. Then apply 3 layers of mat at 1", 2" & 3" to build op the "V" grooves. Also glass in the flair I saved & the inner plywood brace which had also ripped off. Now the other side is where most of the dolly damage is. Plus somebody put a BIG hole in the rear rocker panel. So the plan is the finish the Pass side rocker & make a mold of it. Then pop out a new side rocker panel & replace the whole driver side from flair to flair. Plywood braces had also been ripped out of that side too.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 1, 2012 22:04:21 GMT -5
No comment ;D
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 1, 2012 18:23:08 GMT -5
Here is the side scoop sanded down & has the scoop installed. Had to figure out another way to lift the body to get inside to do the glassing of the scoop. Rear fender would pull off the other way, so I used the rear bumper mount & had to recenter the body. If anyone would be interest in the side scoops in this way, I could make molds of each side to fit the Bradley GT II. The molds I have now are for the Bradley GT They use the Mustang side scoops.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 31, 2012 13:35:48 GMT -5
It's now glassed in with 2 layer of mat. After cured sanded it down & mix up some resin putty & filled in the low spot. Will glass of it later.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 31, 2012 11:13:53 GMT -5
OK, change my mind again! Moving the scoops up which makes more sense for my App. They will now be more in line with the engine & air intake. Slowing cut the hole for the scoop. Had to remove some of the plywood for clearance. Then fitted the scoop in as best I could. Then laid one layer of mat to hold it in. When cured will take another look to see whats up with it. Most of the fiberglass support will be done on the inside. But the guy that assy. this Bradley undercoat everything, which I have to remove to do any glassing. Remember, these were made for the GT model. Nothing is easy when your have fun.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 20:39:15 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 12:50:41 GMT -5
Step 1 on mounting the side scoop. Slowly cut the hole so the scoop area will clear the body. Hold the panel to the body & trace the outline, then slowly out, test fitting many time so not to cut out to much. This was done in steps. The plywood support will need to be cupped out to clear also, no to much.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 10:42:36 GMT -5
Here they are trimmed & the scoop hole out out. Still to do the drilling holes. A rare find, These Mustang scoops are OPEN, they are blocked most the time. They dumped into the rear wheel will. If you looking for the scoop be sure to have a 9mm wrench & 1/4" drive socket. It's a pain in the butt to get them out also, rear seat needs to come out. Here it's mounted in the driver side. EST. place on the body of GT II I know they fit as had them on the Yellow GT II before changing to the MR2 model.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 5:09:53 GMT -5
Popped out the 2 Mustang side scoops, slipped out like butter. Applied 1 wax & buffed. Ripped up some more mat & did 3 layer on each mold. Will trim the 1st one's this afternoon. Going back to bed! Will be showing how to mount to the rear rocker panels on the GT II Already did a post for them on the GT. Found it way over on page 11. bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=354
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 3:54:36 GMT -5
I cut them out with my Laser Engraver, any size. Pm with height your what
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 29, 2012 17:00:48 GMT -5
Can't do much with this bum knee, so waxed the 2 scoop molds & laid up 3 layer of mat on each & rolled them out to get any bubbles out & extra resin. Tomorrow will pop them off, re-wax & laid one more set in case anybody wants them as long as the molds are out. PM me for info.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 28, 2012 20:08:43 GMT -5
Been have knee problems, so not working on the Bradley GT II
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 28, 2012 17:37:37 GMT -5
Looking for driver door window GT II
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 27, 2012 15:13:54 GMT -5
Now I remember why I cancelled it. No wander I didn't get this issue!
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 26, 2012 21:16:24 GMT -5
I have the complete dash out of the GT II w/gauges. PM me if you want.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 26, 2012 18:08:37 GMT -5
I have the H/L assy. if that's what you need. No W/S No rims. PM me
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 26, 2012 15:06:13 GMT -5
The other VW that starts with a "P" had lead weight in the from bumper. The gas tank will be up front & maybe the Batt. The paint is Rust-oleum. Hope it will hold up on the top pipes, bottom should be ok.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 25, 2012 21:02:50 GMT -5
Well I was right, got the other shock mount in less the 1.5 hours. She is now standing on her own legs ( tires ).
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 25, 2012 14:53:19 GMT -5
OK, right side is done, Left side may be a little easier as I think I know what to do. Trimmed the wheel well frame for the 2"x3" tubing to fit.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 25, 2012 12:06:39 GMT -5
OK, been goofing off past few days. Firewall is giving me headaches. But the Rat Rod CHEAP ass coil over shocks came in yesterday, soooooo! 1st they don't fit! 1/2" bolt to mm. So I knocked out the bolt bushing in the stock shock & cleaned off all of the rubber. Drilled out the one on the new shock & pushed in the mm bushing. Sound easy, huh? Then had to do a little mod to the lower A-arm mount to fir the spring cup, moving the assy to the rear a bit to clear A-arm. Both the top bolt in with the mount will use to weld in. Will weld a thick wall 2"x3" tubing to the top of the front cradle to weld the upper shock mount. Will need to trim the wheel well to clear the 2"x3" tubing. Problem is the spring are 200lbs I think & may be to strong for the light front end. More to come after my break.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 25, 2012 9:20:36 GMT -5
How bout some pictures! Use a heat gun & remove the graphics wet sand & buff out the gel coat. You can use Goo-Off to clean up after. Sand WET with 600 down to 1000g sandpaper then machine buff. Will come out really nice as long as the gel coat in ok. Also start your own post with pictures so we can keep a EYE on you.
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Aug 22, 2012 21:28:36 GMT -5
|
|