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Post by bradley85 on Nov 24, 2012 11:30:50 GMT -5
I have been asked to post photos of my conversion to a linear actuator for the hearlights on my GTII. This will be a short test to see if I can get Photobucket to work for me. More to follow if this works. Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 22, 2012 9:01:30 GMT -5
Dan, Thanks for responding. I DID NOT want to remove the gas tank, A/C condenser, and then have to cut a hole in the front of the Bradley body, so I designed and machined a "snap on" shift rod bushing made from PVC piping. I used a threaded sprinkler riser that I drilled to 7/8" ID. I then machined half of the OD for a tight push fit into the shift rod bracket. The next step was to saw out a slot lengthwise in the bushing to allow the bushing, (with a good, hard push), to be snapped onto the shift rod through the shift lever hole. The sawed out piece from the bushing was then put back in place on the shift rod and the whole assembly was pushed back into the hanger bracket until the bushing seated. This left about 3/4" of the machined bushing surface, with the slot at the top, extending through the back of the bracket. I had already used a 1 3/4" hole saw just behind the bracket for access to the shift rod and I solvent glued a split "snap on" PVC collar to the bushing where it extended through the shift rod bracket. I believe this bushing, with its self lubricating properties, and I did grease it well also, will out last the VW bushing many times over--and does it make shifting NICE! Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 21, 2012 18:22:39 GMT -5
I converted to an actuator and have a good headlight motor, mounting brackets, linkages, wiring, and an extra set of micro switches for sale. If the photo does not show in the ad, send me a message to e-mail you photos. $50.00 including shipping. 602-908-2316 Gregory Whitney Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 13, 2012 12:39:16 GMT -5
I have just finished fabricating and installing a beefed up clutch cable tube bracket in the center tunnel of my GTII. The thin sheet metal factory bracket is prone to breakage and then your clutch function is compromised. While working in the tunnel, I discivered that I also need to replace the shift rod bushing. This means that I need to pull the shift rod forward out of the car through the opening at the front beam. Before I pull the fuel tank, tunnel cover,etc., I would like to know if any members have done this sucessfully. It looks like the distance from the beam to the front of the body may be insufficient to allow the shift rod to be removed. I have the GTE body style so the large hood opening may be a plus. If you have any experience or thoughts on this problem, I would appreciate your help. Thanks Gregory Whitney Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 24, 2012 14:05:57 GMT -5
Wyn, Here is another shot from long ago. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 24, 2012 13:45:23 GMT -5
Wyn, Here is a better picture for you. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 24, 2012 13:43:07 GMT -5
Wyn, It looks like Dan has a good fix for you. I fabricated my hinges from flame cut 1/4" steel plate. I was almost ready to cut the second piece when I realized that I had a gas tank going in later on. That is when I put the little upswing curve in the passenger side hinge arm. When I did away with the louvers in the hood area, I glassed pre threaded 1/4" straps into the hood and body for bolting the assembly together. It is very rigid. If you want to go to this extreme, I will try to figure out how to post a series of photos. Here is one for now. Gregory Whitney Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 23, 2012 13:04:24 GMT -5
Here is the best deal going that I could find on door and hatchback struts for my Bradley GTll. Go to this address: www.mcmaster.com/#gas-springs/=juj6wzI am using #4138T55, 40 lb force on the hatchback. I am using #4138T55, 90 lb force on the doors. My doors are heavier than normal because I have built them up to hold the Chevy van 60/40 pop out side windows as sun roofs. On a normal Bradley door, the 60 lb strut might be better. The extended length is 15.24" and the stroke is 5.47. These struts have the correct 3/4" diameter AND they ony cost $14.47 each + about $5 to $10 shipping. Hope this info will help some of you. Gregory Whitney Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 12, 2012 13:53:40 GMT -5
I had custom carpet installed and I have the NOS black Bradley GTll complete carpet kit for sale at $60.00 including shipping in the lower 48 states. Part numbers are: 11026-left front panel, 11027-right front panel, 11028-rear panel, 11029-rear package, 11031-left door sill, 11032-right door sill, 11034-left firewall, 11035-right firewall. Gregory Whitney 602-908-2316 Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 5, 2012 14:18:24 GMT -5
Bob, The color is Mazda Miata Crystal Blue Mica. Here is another photo. Gregory Whitney Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Sept 30, 2012 22:12:05 GMT -5
Dan, Thanks for the tip on posting photos. The site information sheet states that you can only post one image per message, so that is what I did. I will try your suggestion next time I post because it will certainly be faster for me and better for the reader. Thanks again. Gregory Whitney Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Sept 30, 2012 15:05:33 GMT -5
Although I am listed as a new member, I have been on the board since the very early days. I started work on this Bradley in mid 1994. I started with a very incomplete kit and had to fabricate many of the parts on the car. Some of you "old timers" may remember that at one time I was selling Bradley GTll windshields. I made many refinements such as completely re glassing the roofline to allow Chevy van side windows to be used as pop up sun roofs, Honda Prelude tail lights, Fiero seats, eliminate hood and quarter window louvers, 4 wheel disk brakes, electric latches for the hood, hatchback, and engine cover, and glassing the top and windshield posts to the body. I finally realised that if I did not hurry up and get this "thing" done, I was going to have to hire an attendent to drive along behind my wife and me to help us in and out of the car. The last thing I need to do is put a nice steering wheel in and I will persue that tommorow. The car has been driven 102 mile so far and everything seems to be OK. I can not even begin to calculate how many hours I have put into this car. They have all been good hours. I will post a few photos here, and if they come out OK, I will post some others later. Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Jul 6, 2012 8:29:15 GMT -5
I also need one dash vent--just the sheet metal part--I have the plastic part. Greg 602-908-2316
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 8, 2012 10:57:10 GMT -5
Dan and Skip,
Thanks, I think I can find the right struts with the info you have sent me.
Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 7, 2012 15:34:37 GMT -5
Dan and Skip,
Thanks for the info. The original hatchback struts on my Bradley are a bit shorter than my door struts, so I am still looking for an interchange part number from Auto Zone, etc. If anyone has specs for the originals such as compressed length, extended length, and strut pressure, I can find the struts I need. Thanks again.
Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 6, 2012 12:14:47 GMT -5
Does anyone out there have a part number for the hatchback struts for the Bradley GT 2? I found my door struts at Auto Zone and they work great. I have been working on this car since 1992 and have had quite a few "time outs". I made a goal for myself to have the car running by the end of 2011 and I made it! It is in the paint shop now and I will need to put in all of the glass, including the hatchback, when I pick it up. Any help anyone can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Gregory Whitney whitney.gm@gmail.com
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Post by bradley85 on May 13, 2012 14:52:24 GMT -5
Adjust the steering limit bolts near your steering box and the rubbing problem can be made to go away. You may have a bit of an increase in your turn radius, but it is worth it to get rid of the tire rub.
Gregory Whitney
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Post by bradley85 on May 13, 2012 14:45:57 GMT -5
I thought it might help if I went to the site and checked as I bought mine a year ago. Here is more info.
FUSE BLOCK WITH COVER 12 FUSE ATO ATC STYLE Item: 46084 U/M: EA $12.9400
Good luck
Gregory Whitney
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Post by bradley85 on May 13, 2012 14:40:04 GMT -5
Try www.waytekwire.com I bought a 12 fuse block from them to replace the original and it worked great. Mine was $12.94 + shipping. They have smaller ones also.
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 19, 2011 18:36:33 GMT -5
Bob, Greg Whitney here. I am still looking for the slider window latches for the small door windows on my GTII. Please let me know ASAP if you have 1 or 2of them for sale. Thanks, Greg
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