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Post by bradley85 on Nov 13, 2012 12:39:16 GMT -5
I have just finished fabricating and installing a beefed up clutch cable tube bracket in the center tunnel of my GTII. The thin sheet metal factory bracket is prone to breakage and then your clutch function is compromised. While working in the tunnel, I discivered that I also need to replace the shift rod bushing. This means that I need to pull the shift rod forward out of the car through the opening at the front beam. Before I pull the fuel tank, tunnel cover,etc., I would like to know if any members have done this sucessfully. It looks like the distance from the beam to the front of the body may be insufficient to allow the shift rod to be removed. I have the GTE body style so the large hood opening may be a plus. If you have any experience or thoughts on this problem, I would appreciate your help. Thanks Gregory Whitney Attachments:
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Nov 13, 2012 13:39:18 GMT -5
Depending on the spacing between the front tunnel cover and the fuel tank, you may have enough room to clear the bushing bracket. Don't know myself as my tank is in the rear. This is assuming the shift rod is clean and not rusted. If rusted you will have to take it out. Don't forget to get a new spring clip as well. Your access hole will make the job a lot easier. Use lots of grease on the shift rod.
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 22, 2012 9:01:30 GMT -5
Dan, Thanks for responding. I DID NOT want to remove the gas tank, A/C condenser, and then have to cut a hole in the front of the Bradley body, so I designed and machined a "snap on" shift rod bushing made from PVC piping. I used a threaded sprinkler riser that I drilled to 7/8" ID. I then machined half of the OD for a tight push fit into the shift rod bracket. The next step was to saw out a slot lengthwise in the bushing to allow the bushing, (with a good, hard push), to be snapped onto the shift rod through the shift lever hole. The sawed out piece from the bushing was then put back in place on the shift rod and the whole assembly was pushed back into the hanger bracket until the bushing seated. This left about 3/4" of the machined bushing surface, with the slot at the top, extending through the back of the bracket. I had already used a 1 3/4" hole saw just behind the bracket for access to the shift rod and I solvent glued a split "snap on" PVC collar to the bushing where it extended through the shift rod bracket. I believe this bushing, with its self lubricating properties, and I did grease it well also, will out last the VW bushing many times over--and does it make shifting NICE! Attachments:
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