mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 13, 2016 11:50:07 GMT -5
Any ideas? id love to go led or something more reliable
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Aug 28, 2015 21:25:23 GMT -5
The front blinkers work when they are grounded against the casing
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Aug 28, 2015 20:02:16 GMT -5
1. I have confirmed that my blinkers aren't working due to a bad ground at the turn signals. The lights just aren't seating themselves against the case, it looks like the Previous owner tried using die-electric grease to solve this problem.
Does anyone have a solid fix for this?
2. It also looks like the PO ran a wire directly to the positive terminal on the starter for a solid 12v's for the headlight flip up motor. How is it supposed to be hooked up?
3. My rear blinkers don't seem to work at all, the lights are on but not flashing. Would this have something to do with the front directionals not being properly grounded.
Could someone please explain to me how the lights on the Bradley gt 2 are supposed to function?
i know that when the hazard light switch is on, the blinkers loose their 12 v
could someone explain to me how the hazard switch works? i have 3 positions, off, interior lights and headlights(i believe) is this how they are supposed to work? and wouldnt that mean when the headlights are on the blinkers wouldn't work?
i have 10 days to get it inspected
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Aug 26, 2015 15:35:37 GMT -5
For the engine? A picture would be fabulous
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Aug 16, 2015 12:56:17 GMT -5
How is that supposed to hook up to the engine?
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Aug 15, 2015 14:55:31 GMT -5
As far as the lines go, if they are fuel then one may be the fuel return line if the PO had an electric fuel pump setup, or he may have had 2 tanks in the car at some point. It's hard to tell what the PO's have done with these things, but those lines in the bag look more like oil lines for either a breather setup or more likely a remote oil cooler. I've seen some people mount those just above the transaxle so that seems the most likely story to me. best of luck I believe your right, there is a small fan sitting under the front bumper, im not sure what its for, it might just be an oil cooler. Is there a fan thing tucked under the front bumper of bradleys? But why would it have been disconnected and why would they mount it in the front of the vehicle?
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Aug 9, 2015 19:16:27 GMT -5
Hey guys! I know I haven't replied in some time but I've been busy. I had to replace the exhaust as some of you know. In the process I cracked off all 8 of the exhaust studs, awesome. I've spent some time on the Samba forums and I ended up boring the studs out and had them rethreaded for m10's. They make step down studs from m10's to m8's so I should be fine. Since I had the heads I took a look at the valves and woosh did they need replacing. While I was looking at the valves I decided to check the valve guides and wouldn't you know they are out of spec. So now the engine is out, the valve guides are out, I ordered new valve guides, new valves, a oil filter attachment from CB performance, an oil pump puller, I've cleaned up the block to atleast respectable levels using a power washer, brush and engine gunk remover, I bought j-tubes and a new exhaust, all new hardware, new tin screws as well as industrial tins for the j-tubes and a new thermostat....since i broke it... I checked the starter and found that it grinds pretty heavily while turning it, so i have a new starter on order. Oh and new head studs. All of this stuff should be in by this Thursday. I removed the spacers between the 4 to 5 bolt adapter for the wheels and got 4 bolts rims. While im waiting today i decided to look at the engine bay As you can see the heat shielding (if you could call it that) is in tatters and is held on by what seems to be aluminum rods and some screws, its covered by a black something.. before I put the engine back in or maybe after I would like to replace this, does anyone have any ideas as to how to do a decent job? Also there seems to be 2 tubes just hanging out in my engine bay covered by a clearish plastic bag. I assume these are gas line tubes but the guy mustv'e installed another line because they were never hooked up. does anyone have any ideas as to where they go or what they were used for and why might they be disconnected in the first place?
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Jun 1, 2015 16:54:08 GMT -5
I'm looking for the correct window seal gaskets for the T-tops does anyone know of a source?
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mogar
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Post by mogar on May 25, 2015 13:45:41 GMT -5
But the BIG NEWS is I found a CURE for the GTII BUTT SNAG!!!!!!!! For $65.00 plus your tax, a little hammering & welding, FIXED. The cage comes welded & tubes which slide into it. The shock mounts tube need to be hammered over about 45. The Trans mount tubes bolt to the two large bolts on the Trans cross over, need BIG socket. BUT, the engine should be OUT to do this. Also the engine needs to be in before you reinstall it after welding the four tube. With it together, rubber hammer it to were you want to to sit. Tick weld the remove for welding. You may be able to see that the cage sits with the plywood inner fenders. Use 2" or 3" bar stock & drill two holes into it, these will bolt though the plywood. Being sure the body is now straight, weld the bar stock to the tubing of the cage. Will be adding picture as I do it. I know im bringing up old news but will the baja rear shock fit with a Single quiet pack exhaust system? www.jbugs.com/product/3647.html?Category_Code=vw-bug-super-beetle-mufflers-headers-system
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mogar
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Post by mogar on May 25, 2015 13:20:16 GMT -5
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Oct 7, 2014 20:49:57 GMT -5
Instead of buying a new lug nut I just bought some new rims, $15 for 2.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Oct 5, 2014 18:11:12 GMT -5
Okay I loosened the lock nut but i couldn't tighten the grub screw any farther than it was already. :/ Maybe next time I have it in the air at the shop ill see if i can do it then. However this time the lower control arm didnt even budge in-out play. but when it was at the garage it was clearly loose. I had the tire fully up in the air.
I looked up that VW parts dealer in VT and he lives like 40 mins from me haha so i think tomo or tues im going to go down and pick up those attachments\gaskets for the exhaust.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Oct 4, 2014 23:03:37 GMT -5
I found this article by non-other than Skip20, (Just look a few posts above and you'll see him) bradleygt.proboards.com/thread/1673Looks like it fits just fine. "The torsion arm should have a grub screw that sets into and indentation in the leaf pack. You loosen the lock nut, tighten the grub screw, and them tighten the lock nut." Are you saying its on the lower control arm itself? or are you talking about the one where you adjust the ride height (the grub screw in the center of the torsion tube?)
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Oct 3, 2014 22:50:31 GMT -5
$6.00 donuts, come with new brackets & bolts for both sides. Get the ex head gaskets also (4). Will need to remove the front engine sheet metal & remove the muffler to replace. Was this what you were talking about? www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1683822And you guys were suggesting i also get the exhaust head gaskets too? I like how that exhaust looks on your car, not half bad I wonder if it will fit with the baja rear bumper? I was going to get that and use it to fix the butt sag issue im having. www.appletreeauto.com/BAJA-REAR-SHOCK-MOUNT-BUMPER-5520/?gclid=CLby97ughMECFajm7Aod91YAsgAlso the lower control arm, on the front suspension, where it connects lower torsion bar I showed in a previous picture slides in and out. Is it supposed to have that much play? thats why he said it was "loose". Why is it sliding in and out? is it worn?
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Oct 3, 2014 21:58:32 GMT -5
NICE!!!
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mogar
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Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Oct 2, 2014 22:07:23 GMT -5
I got the directional working... And now my brake lights and directionals dont come on unless they are flashing Haha I found out that the fuse had blown so I took the fuse from the accessories and used that one instead. After all that i tried to start the car. and Nothing... i looked over some wires and pushed a few plugs back in and tried it again. Im not sure if my starter is broken. It spun but it sounds like its jammed or just mashing teeth it barely turns and sounds horrible. How do i get at that thing? do i need to remove the engine? what should i check? BTW all the lights are now working! haha until i change them over to LED's
Btw, Btw, Wow...the bradley sat in the rain yesterday and i got home from work and there was literally a 1/2 inch of water in the floor pan, it took 3 towels to remove. These things leak like civs
Things needed to fix for inspection: 1. Directional's Check 2. Hi-beams Check 3. Holes in the floor pan Check 4. Exhaust leak 5. Front suspension thing
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Oct 2, 2014 2:13:34 GMT -5
So I started with the rear of the vehicle and repaired anything questionable which ended up being about 3 grounds and tried the right directional again. I received the same results so I looked at the front right light itself and this is what I saw. I dont know if you can tell but there is dielectric grease everywhere and at some point the white plastic circular retainer for the contacts had broken. I tried to remove it from it's plasticky death grip and ended up having to break it to remove it. So now I either need a new retainer clip or an upgrade to the 21st century. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated and yep! You guys were right! Your so smart
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 30, 2014 22:29:34 GMT -5
I found out what the vw dimmer switch does... And the previous owner had the wires plugged in wrong; so now I have hi-beams. However, now the passenger side turn signal doesn't work at all. The light on the dash will stay constantly very dimly lite. I was also comparing the wiring of the fuses to the wiring diagram and he has like 4 extra wires on there.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 29, 2014 21:42:37 GMT -5
Oh my...classic hack job wiring. Any advice is just a pure guess since it has been hacked so badly. First off I would check to make sure that the filaments are working. So do you have headlights? Or no headlights at all? If no headlights you need to follow the power from the fuseblock (make sure the fuse is good), to the headlight switch, then off to the relay. It is just going to be a needle in a haystack job of following power wires, and making sure grounds are good. I have headlights. Starting from the column which wires do I trace? Color..
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 29, 2014 21:11:50 GMT -5
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 29, 2014 20:38:38 GMT -5
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 28, 2014 19:26:16 GMT -5
Door Lock with new hardware I do have a problem, the fiberglass where the latch bolts to has been sheared a bit. No matter how hard I pull that latch it wont snap the unlock because its loose. I cleaned up the top window seal, someone had put thingying onto the seal. The fiberglass itself is pretty wavy And I took off the 4 to 5 lug bolt conversion because I needed to fix one of the lugs, however, WTH is this!! I have no idea where i'm going to find another one and of course this is the broken lug.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 27, 2014 11:39:48 GMT -5
I used a (glass) bead blaster to remove all the junk, However, While vacuuming the carpet i flipped it up and saw some rust ( I wasn't surprised it was there) but it was a lot more than I was expecting. I took pictures, of course, of the damage. As I saw more rust I decided to remove the seat and fold up the carpet. I'm surprised to see what looks like a brake line running right under my seat and carpet. Looks like they coated it in some kind of plastic I also noticed that someone got a little excited with the drill The black rubber (bottom of the picture) is actually hiding a piece of sheet steel but i haven't yet lifted that up. So fella's and ladies (if present) Do you see anything out of the ordinary? Looks like a body off restoration is in order.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 27, 2014 1:07:34 GMT -5
So I decided to clean up the passenger door lock because it's missing a rod from the handle to the mechanism. I took a before and after picture. Ill be getting some new hardware for it as well; stainless steel. I was wondering if I should put any anti-corrosion coating on it and what kind? Also the alternator pulley belt was loose and i watched a u-tube video and then went out and did it myself. I am amazed at the simplicity and quickness i was able to adjust the belt. It took less than 4 mins.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 24, 2014 15:31:22 GMT -5
So I have a large blue book for the gt 2 called Structural plans and I was wondering if it is any different than "1977 BRADLEY GT II WITH DIMENSIONAL STRUCTURAL PLANS" Really its the word dimensional. I am considering creating a full 3d Solidworks model of the Bradley gt2 since i've found none that exist. Is this an even rarer book? It would be critical to the construction of this model to have dimensions of this car. It'll be the last picture at the bottom of this page. I've found no other mention of it online. funnybug.canney.net/webbugs/kitcars/bradleygt2/bgt218/index.htmlSince one of the things i need to fix for inspection is the lug stud. what does the bradley ride on? it has 5 lugs on each tire i checked the vw beetles but they seem to be a 4 bolt pattern.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 24, 2014 14:23:22 GMT -5
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 23, 2014 14:33:33 GMT -5
Do you guys also have the problem of the body resting on the exhaust pipes? Or is that an attribute of "butt sag" If i should be having an exhaust with more clearance then let me know. Ill just buy a new exhaust. I've been looking at the regular Bug exhausts( 2 tips sticking out instead of 4) and then a single exhaust with a muffler out to 1 side but im not sure what it will look like on the bradley does anyone have pictures of these exhausts they have installed? TY guys you are all super helpful!!!
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 22, 2014 21:23:27 GMT -5
The exhaust connection that is leaking is this one The Low beams indeed work, HA! I didnt think of pulling the directional switch towards me. I was too busy looking for a switch. But the hi beams are still not turning on and i dont hear or feel any click. Do i need to have the car running to have hi beams? What do those last 2 switches do on the center console? The ones on the far right bottom that light up green? Btw there is this switch that I flip and the head lights will raise up but then they fall back down.. and then raise up again.. and fall back down...and so on and so forth if i want them to stop i have to flick the switch while the lights are raised up and it will hold them in place It doesnt look like my car has rear directionals..seriously. This is the "suspension part thats loose" I have looked up butt sag and you would be correct if my doors sat like that but its not that, its the door locks! I think they are stuck in this position. Maybe they are broken but they wont swing outward. And finally, shouldnt this be connected to something? Funny i just realized my engine hatch has a handle on it, not supposed to be there.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Sept 22, 2014 17:27:18 GMT -5
So I just picked up this car in Wells, Maine Now i need to register it so i got 20 day plates and talked to the inspector. He said i needed, - 1 My High beams to work
- 2 Rear directionals, It doesn't even look like i have any.
- 3 A new exhaust cuz it leaks
- 4 Front end suspension related work *pictures forthcoming
- 5 and floor pan work
On the other side of things i need a new starter it sounds like hell, and the odometer doesn't work (pretty sure he didn't notice that) any tips tricks areas of suggestion? I'll be finding the block # in a jiffy
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