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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 28, 2011 9:02:57 GMT -5
Due to my extensive training in automotive I rarely use a manual on these older systems. However wgen I do need something I refer to the Bentley manuals, they have the most info. Also www.thesamba.com has great color wiring diagrams at the top of the page under the technical tab. www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt2.php Be sure to click on TYPE 1 if working on a Beetle based system. For newer systems I use ALLDATA, a computer program that has all manuals and diagrams for all makes and models from 1983 to 2005   I was given a copy of the IDIOTS Guide and find it is lacking in the technical info that is useful. It is full of garbage. Also at the samba under the technical tab is a lot of factory owners manuals and other technical info. www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/They have come in handy at times. I do not know how anyone can work with gloves, they are a pain in the butt and just get in the way.. Get in there and get dirty, hand cleaner is a great thing. I know some guys that swear by the latex disposable gloves, my answer to them is latex gloves are great as long as they are the one finger type. |
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stevevw
Full Member
Part VW part Porsche , all Bradley
Posts: 117
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Post by stevevw on Jul 28, 2011 14:37:04 GMT -5
Dan,
So you can use the later mounts on and earlier trans/chassis ?
Sounds like a great idea , i do agree on urathane in that it makes things louder.
I am about to change my diagonal arm bushings back to rubber because of the noise .
Cheers , Steve
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 28, 2011 19:39:05 GMT -5
Yes, You discard the spreader between the horns that the other mounts fasten to. The new mounts fasten under the big bolts on the ends of the horns and you make a new spreader out of 1/2 angle iron that attaches to the small holes in the later mounts.
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Post by kitcarguy on Jul 29, 2011 15:42:22 GMT -5
Oh so you have to make a spreader?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 29, 2011 19:21:07 GMT -5
Unless you can find one, yes you make one. It is very simple.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 1, 2011 6:26:54 GMT -5
Well I had some time to really go over the floor pans and once I got under all the tar and glass then had on them I discovered they are wrecked. I am going to have to order a set. Anyone have a suggestion on a decent set?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 1, 2011 6:46:02 GMT -5
Before you order the cheap quality pans that are available, decide on your seats and the way they mount. You can get a sheet of steel plate {approx 1/16 to 3/32 thick} for less than the price of one side of your pans. Many seats need a flat surface to bolt to. As you have to weld in the pans why not go thicker, stronger and cheaper. My ghia cost me $80 for all the steel for both sides. Ghia pans are wider than Bug pans. I used 1" angle iron for the outer edges and 1.25" exhaust pipe to use as the heater channel. Same was done to my Bradley {by the previous owner {no heater channel}, he used 1" square tube along the outer edge. A couple of reinforcing straps under the seat mounts eliminates any "popcanning".
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 1, 2011 8:15:53 GMT -5
I am not at all worried about heater channels being in Florida. I have someone who would weld in the pans maybe he can just make them. The seats are just the "stock" bradley seats that I planned on using
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 1, 2011 8:30:51 GMT -5
I do not know how the stock Bradley seat mounts but the GT2 seat mounts to a flat floor pan section. Making the floor for GT2 would be better than stock pans due to shape/ stock Bug seat attachment points that need removal.
Does the GT use a shortened pan? If so any new stock pans would have to be cut.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 1, 2011 8:40:18 GMT -5
The GT is a full length pan. The seats used universal sliders that love a flat surface. My understanding is Wolfsburg West has the thickest stock pans available. No experience with that...just from general reading. And since you have the body off I would use 1x2" steel to make the outer frame rails, modify the rear tunnel lip so it lays flat, and use thicker sheet metal for the floor. This will give you some additional headroom & provide a nice flat floor. Look at the last set of pictures in this thread for a visual of what I am talking about: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=473194 |
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 1, 2011 9:55:18 GMT -5
Thats a good looking pan. Even a cheap set of pans with shipping is over $300. No doubt I can get the steel and have my guy weld it up for cheaper than that.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 1, 2011 13:25:06 GMT -5
So what is the "easiest" method for removing the old pans? Sawsall or a cutoff tool of some kind?
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 1, 2011 14:51:42 GMT -5
Sawzall. Cut within about 1" of the tunnel and then use an air chisel to pop the remaining spot wleds on the tunnel lip.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 1, 2011 21:16:12 GMT -5
One side done  |
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 3, 2011 21:48:30 GMT -5
Ok now this might be a dumb question. I decided to just buy a set of pans locally instead of having them made. I have the old one out except for one section. Here is a photo (not mine) to illustrate  For some reason I thought it was not a part of the pan, but it is on the new pans. Do I remove this as I did the rest of the pan? |
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Post by smyrnaguy on Aug 4, 2011 7:20:48 GMT -5
Its easier to tack on the brace than to weld the pan to the brace. I'd replace it.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 4, 2011 7:49:35 GMT -5
So this should come off with an air chisel as well?
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Post by skip20 on Aug 4, 2011 9:41:05 GMT -5
Buy the pans FIRST then cut the old ones out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Get the pans w/o the seat bracket, or you will have to cut them out also.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 4, 2011 10:22:50 GMT -5
Buy the pans FIRST then cut the old ones out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Get the pans w/o the seat bracket, or you will have to cut them out also. I already bought the pans locally and they had the seat bracket . why do they need to be cut out? |
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 4, 2011 10:59:42 GMT -5
yup.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 4, 2011 12:24:00 GMT -5
Do they just sit to high for the seats or something? |
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 4, 2011 13:08:18 GMT -5
Yes...they add between 2-3" of extra height. Unless you are very small thats alot. Especially since you don't have dropped pans or a lifted body.
I would cut them off at their base with a cut off wheel and leave the bases welded to the pans. trying to pop the welds usually results in tearing the pans.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 4, 2011 14:29:27 GMT -5
I am 5-7 but I will get rid of them. Is there a generic seat rail of some kind I can use to mount the seats.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 4, 2011 19:50:45 GMT -5
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stevevw
Full Member
Part VW part Porsche , all Bradley
Posts: 117
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Post by stevevw on Aug 5, 2011 14:34:06 GMT -5
Ok now this might be a dumb question. I decided to just buy a set of pans locally instead of having them made. I have the old one out except for one section. Here is a photo (not mine) to illustrate For some reason I thought it was not a part of the pan, but it is on the new pans. Do I remove this as I did the rest of the pan? I took mine off on one side then decided it easier to leave the brace on and weld to it . For me leaving the part on was a much cleaner install. |
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 7, 2011 7:16:47 GMT -5
Thanks Steve. I am going to take a better look at it tomorrow. I have had events all weekend and not a minute to even open the garage.
My goal is to get paint on the car by the weekend.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 10, 2011 21:08:45 GMT -5
Well the pans are ready to be welded in. I just ended up taking the brace off. It was not all that difficult.  No another question I have. What is everyone using to secure the rear engine cover. I see where there was some sort of brace at some time and I am guessing it had hood pins on it but they were not with the car. |
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 10, 2011 21:37:29 GMT -5
Also while I am thinking about it. I am going to replace the old tired Monza exhaust that is on it and wanted a few recommendations. I frequently hear a 4-1 has better performance. What I do not want is something that is going to stick out the rear of the car a foot like the monza does
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 11, 2011 10:11:44 GMT -5
Looks like you still have the stock seat rails on the pans. You'll likely need to remove them to install seats that will work with the Bradley.
Regards....
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Post by brianboggs on Aug 11, 2011 11:52:21 GMT -5
And this is easier to do with the pans out of the car.  Looks like you still have the stock seat rails on the pans. You'll likely need to remove them to install seats that will work with the Bradley. Regards.... |
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