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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 6, 2011 10:38:29 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 6, 2011 12:34:03 GMT -5
Looks like a gut job to me. Not the most exotic of cars in my opinion.
Whats the condition of the motor? How about doors?
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 6, 2011 12:47:00 GMT -5
Motor runs, Doors are their. I am going to look at it right now.
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 6, 2011 20:03:06 GMT -5
So I did go look at it and ended up getting it for a better price. It does have the doors, they were both cracked. Rear window is missing. I am in Florida so I am really not concerned with the doors at this point. Front windshield is ok
Body is solid, pan looked good from underneath but I will know more when the body comes off. It is said that the motor needs a fuel pump, but at this point I am assuming it will not run. The interior is all tore up.
I do think its a good start. I am going to gut the interior this week and start the process of removing the body.
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Post by Kyle Murdock on Jun 6, 2011 20:42:31 GMT -5
Hmmm, looks like a Scorpion with a Bradley GT roof. The Scorpion roof was removable and the rear window was shaped differently. Not that that matter, just interesting.
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 6, 2011 20:56:07 GMT -5
Hey Kyle, Its funny that you mentioned that. I was scratching my head because the roof was not removable. But I guess it will make it slightly easier to get a rear window perhaps Also the front end is different than the other scorpions I have seen
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 7, 2011 10:04:36 GMT -5
So I am also being told this could be a Lithia GT . Anyone have any info on it?
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 7, 2011 17:30:12 GMT -5
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Post by mrbigh on Jun 7, 2011 21:11:13 GMT -5
Oh man, I love the wiring bird nest they left you there,,,,,
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 8, 2011 7:42:13 GMT -5
Oh man, I love the wiring bird nest they left you there,,,,, Yeah I about had a heart attack when I seen that. I am not a wiring wizz so getting it back together should be interesting.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 8, 2011 8:58:37 GMT -5
Cut it all out!
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 8, 2011 9:23:46 GMT -5
Cut it out and go with a painless wiring kit?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 8, 2011 9:50:37 GMT -5
Or a Rebel, or an EZ wire.
You won't be able to fix that. You may be able to get it working but it will fail at the worst time. Chasing electrical gremlins has to be one of the most difficult diagnostic repairs there is.
Wiring is real simple. Sure...there are some more complex circuits but for a basic kit they are real, real simple. All it takes is a little time and some attention to detail (which is free!).
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 8, 2011 10:07:09 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. Is their one you recommend over the others?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 8, 2011 10:32:02 GMT -5
I have used everything from the EMPI harness in a bag (NEVER use!) to an EZ Wire, to a 8 circuit kit from EBAY.
People have spoken highly about the Rebel kits, although I have never used one.
Unless your planning something exotic a 12 circuit harness is more than enough. Plus ALOT of ground wire.
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 8, 2011 11:00:20 GMT -5
I am not planning on anything more then headlights, taillights, gauges, wipers, radio, etc and maybe an A/C if I decide to keep it long term
12 circuit rebel for $186 bucks I guess you cant beat that.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 8, 2011 11:15:54 GMT -5
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 8, 2011 11:39:20 GMT -5
Very nice!
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 8, 2011 19:17:52 GMT -5
No new photos but I just need to disconnect the steering shaft and the body will be removed. I hope to get this done on Friday. I got rid of that rats nest of wires as well.
I will make sure I get more photos on Friday
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 10, 2011 9:19:20 GMT -5
Hey Everyone,
I want to get this body off the car today and I was curious what you guys use to place the body on to work on it? I really want something that I can wheel in and out of the garage while sanding and such.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 10, 2011 10:23:43 GMT -5
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 10, 2011 10:41:02 GMT -5
I love it. You have done this just a couple of times I see..lol
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 10, 2011 11:57:40 GMT -5
A few times. A few to go still...
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 10, 2011 13:20:56 GMT -5
Thats great I am going to have to build something like that when I start sanding
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 10, 2011 13:35:41 GMT -5
Its also great when you start the wiring.
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 10, 2011 21:34:51 GMT -5
is it about 2 feet high?
I am ready to remove the body, but its hard to pull a few of my guys off their posts during drag racing...haha
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JohnDriver
Junior Member
life is what happens while you make other plans
Posts: 63
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Post by JohnDriver on Jun 10, 2011 21:58:47 GMT -5
I have used everything from the EMPI harness in a bag (NEVER use!) to an EZ Wire, to a 8 circuit kit from EBAY. People have spoken highly about the Rebel kits, although I have never used one. Unless your planning something exotic a 12 circuit harness is more than enough. Plus ALOT of ground wire. what are the issues with the empi? and what do you guys think about the dunebuggy harness from JC Whitney?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 11, 2011 9:35:44 GMT -5
When it first started out the bottom of the horizontal 2x6's were just taller than the height of the top of the fan shroud of the motor. My guess is that each 4x4" post was 4 feet tall. I say that cause I probably was to cheap to buy any more than 4 of them (Two 8 foot 4x4's for the post and the two 8 foot 4x4s that run horizontally)
The only issue with that height was it was tough to get to the top of the car for sanding or painting. I would say they are now 2-3 feet tall. It is still easy to wire the car, easy for me to get up and sand the top, and easy to reach while painting.
So I guess it depends on your height. Figure out how high you want to reach, deduct the height of the body, and thats the top of your cart. Then deduct the size of the wheels you are going to use to get your overall height of each leg.
Mine also bolts together to store on the wall while not in use.
Regarding the EMPI kit here is why I think it SUCKS: 1. It uses the old style ceramic fuses. They don't stay in their holders well. Why anyone would still use those style fuses i todays day and age is beyond me. 2. The wires attach to the fuse block by inserting a stripped end into a hole and crushing a screw into it to hold it in place. Too tight and you crack the wire and you develop heat and shorts. Too loose and th wire can vibrate out. And it won't vibrate out while your in your driveway. Oh no...it will vibrate out in the middle of a very busy intersection. 3. The wire quality sucks. 4. There is't enough wire for you to even come close to wiring your project. Not even close at all. 5. The wire is not marked along its length for the circuit you are running. With so many low cost alternatives that have this feature available I can't imagine anyone even considering it. 6. After your brakes and steering the wiring is the most important part of the build. Poorly done it will leave you stranded. In all the cars I have done the 1 universal thing that was always done poorly was the wiring. How many pictures of cars on this site have you seen with butchered wiring? There is a reason for that. If you can't afford an additional $100 for wiring yo should not b building a car. Build a nice planter. Build a nice fire pit for your house, but don't be building a car that your life, and the life of others will depend upon.
Which one are you referring to from JCWhitney?
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Post by kitcarguy on Jun 11, 2011 10:00:19 GMT -5
Thanks for the info on the frame. I am going to have to put something like that together . I am 5-7 so a 2 footer would work pretty good for what I want to do.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 11, 2011 10:14:32 GMT -5
Hey, Jeff,
To avoid hijacking this lengthy thread, The following message also appears in a new thread: "EZ 12-Circuit Wiring Harness." Please respond in the new thread so we don't step on kitkarguy's action.
The EZ wire harness you posted looks good for my Fiberfab MG-TD, but I have some questions.
1. Are the quick disconnects at the ends already in place or are they supplied separately so you can cut each wire to an appropriately correct length?
2. I'll assume by your negatives regarding the JCW wire that the EZ wire is of good-to-excellent quality. Correct?
3. How about the connectors? Today's quick disconnects and ring connectors from most auto stores and parts houses are soft, not at all like the quality connectors that were on the original GT harness. Soft quick disconnects, even without excessive on-off repetition, tend to loosen and can eventually disconnect on their own. Are the EZ connectors marine quality, or at least any better than the run-of-the-mill contemporary auto parts cheese?
4. It seems the EZ is based on the typical forward-mounted engine. Any problem for a VW setup?
5. Finally, does that paperwork at the left of the image include a wiring manual? I was planning to build my own harness for the MG by using a combination of the Bradley GT wiring manual and the Fiberfab manual. Fiberfab's manual is a pain-in-the-ass maze, and over 36 years, I have found my 1976 GT wiring schematic to be 100 percent functional and reliable. If a schematic is included with the EZ kit, what is your personal experience with following it, and how would you rate its functionality? In addition to all the stock components, the TD's only extras will be windshield wipers and washers, a "warm-up" AM radio and an ooh-gah horn. Twelve circuits should be more than enough.
Thanks, ace. You comments and experience are always appreciated.
Warmest regards,
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