Skip20 Bradley GT - SS

Here's a trick I had to do.
The XT6 brake booster has a smaller (12mm nut) thread rod & about 1 " to short.
So I cut off the Outback booster rod (14mm nut), drill/tap it to fit the XT6 rod.
Should be OK as it only push's & with no side torque.

Starting to build a mack up of the gas tank
It will sit on the front motor mount w/rubber donuts in the rear with a bar across the frame in the front.
The box on the left in the picture is to clear the Power Rack.



Guess-a-ment will be 15-17 gals

SOOO, here the wood gas tank ( going back to wood like the old days) sitting in the car.



And viewed from the front.
You can see the Lexus G30 gas pump inside.



May add 2"-3" more to the front to get a little more gas in there.

Here the bright yellow engine.
Wrong S/P seal on each valve cover so cant put them on tight yet.
Still need to reassy. the bottom of the intake, Then mount it back on.

OK, got the bottom of the intake back together!



Sitting on the engine, but have to get a new PVC hose which sits under it in the middle.
Also get the wrong S/P seal on valve cover ( one each side) so can;\'t bolt them down
Hurry up & wait!!

WOW, 13,000 LOOKER!!! ;D ;D ;D

Could turn the seat around I guess.
There's a LOOONG way to good.
You may notice there's no floor & thinking of making a fiberglass front firewall.

No floors is good ya see watcha run over

Fred Flintsone no floors too, stop real good!!

Although for a Legacy, I can see it applying to all Subarus.

>insider info
Bleeding Air from the Legacy
Cooling System
Whenever you refill a Legacy cooling system,
make certain that you bleed out all the air, or the
result could be severe engine damage. The following
is an alternative to the method in the service
manual:
1. Make sure the drain is closed that the two engine
drain plugs are properly installed.
2. Remove the radiator cap, radiator vent plug,
and reserve tank cap, then disconnect the upper
radiator hose from the radiator.
3. Pour the 50/50 blend of anti-freeze and water
(preferably distilled or de-ionized) into the
upper radiator hose until the hose is full.
4. Reinstall the hose to the radiator and tighten
the clamp.
5. Slowly fill the radiator until the level reaches the
filler neck.
6. Fill the reserve tank to the Full mark.
7. Reinstall the vent plug and the reserve tank cap.
8. Use a cooling system pressure tester to make sure
there are no leaks, then install the radiator cap.
9. Run the engine until it reaches full operating
temperature (at least 180 deg. F.).
10. Shut the engine off, allow it to cool down
to room temperature, then check the level in
the radiator and reserve tank and add coolant
if necessary.
CAUTION:Wear eye protection when the system is at
operating temperature and pressure

Been working on the front today.
Mounted the ram pump to the frame, trimmed & reinstalled the hoses.



Got the bottom of the rad. mount figured out.
Trimmed the front of it off as it was pointing down to much.
Welded on a 2"x3" in it's place.
The rad/cond still mount in the stock holes
Then welded it to the frame at the right angle.
Checking hood & bump clearance as I went.



Will be ably to mount the Stab. bar to the 2"x3" also.

Rad mount is finished, so Install the A/C Cond. w/ hose's & put the Rad back in.
Made the top support from shock tower to top of Rad support.
Added 1" flat stock from top top bottom of rad frame.
Checking hood clearance the whole time.
Had to move the ram pump more to the inside because I forgot I had to add the support bar down to the front framing by the rams. The yellow ruler shows it.



Here a view from the top.

The nightmare has began!!
Started to work on the engine computer system by removing it from the main harness. Will need to spice a few ground wire back together & figure out where all of the extra wire go.
Can't really see much in the picture, but the 4 main engine plugs are in & the computer is sitting in the back window.
The wires are long so it will fit inside to the back window frame.

There she is sitting on the ground from the front.
Filling in the old Head Light doors as I have a set off a Honda Civic to mount into it.

Starting to build a floor for it so my feet won't keep falling though.
Started with some 3/4" white P-board up on the bottom of the frame.
It's being held with cramps & the lift, with another 2x4 across the center bottom.
So far so good! ;D
Got some sheet metal bent to fit under the rear window frame to the floor..
Hate to see wasted space so made it as a box which will have a cover installed later & 2 doors.



This is going to take some time to figure everything out & get it right.
Getting a roll bar bent for the front & back on Thursday.