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Post by skip20 on May 13, 2012 13:54:14 GMT -5
Here's the bracket for the shifter linkage.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 13, 2012 14:11:46 GMT -5
Lookie what I find.  The front cover tab is hitting the frame same place both side. Guess I will have to rise the engine & notch the frame, add filler to clear it. The engine is sitting about 1/8" off the mount. One good thing, it shows the engine is centered ok. May have to rise engine to change the valve cover gaskets also. |
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Post by skip20 on May 13, 2012 19:17:18 GMT -5
Can't find the gasket stuff, so off to parts store in the AM. Went ahead & paint the cover.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 14, 2012 13:56:59 GMT -5
Got the gasket stuff & cut it out using old school. Use the ball side to tap out the holes & tight corners, the the head (flat side ) to run down the straight areas.  And here it is with the rear cover on with the shifter linkage remounted.  Went to ACE Hardware but couldn't find #10 x .125 allen head bolts so picked up reg. bolts a 1/4" shorter the stock. |
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Post by skip20 on May 14, 2012 16:13:06 GMT -5
The rear plate is bolted down & ready to fill the trans. Will still look for Allen head bolts, think it would look nicer!  Got the rear trans mount finished & mounted.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 14, 2012 16:41:33 GMT -5
The trans area is finished, next to working on cutting the frame to clear the timing cover.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 14, 2012 17:20:10 GMT -5
Good job on the gasket. Not too many know the old school way.
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Post by skip20 on May 15, 2012 14:04:52 GMT -5
Today I just did a little house cleaning in the back. Cut & shorten the hoses for the pump with new fitting. Mounted the cruise control cable. Yes, will have Cruise Control, P/S & A/C on this car. Batt. box is idea on mounting it back there.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 15, 2012 15:34:38 GMT -5
OK, got around to it. Cut a 1 1/4' corner out of the frame, flipped it over & weld it back in.  Not a good picture, but the engine it now down on the mounts w/clearance for the timing covers.  Also gained about a 1/2" off the firewall, but will still need to cut it if I want to change the belts. I am about were I was with the XT6 engine/trans. Still can't find the nuts/bolts to mount the axles back on. Keep looking. |
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Post by 48flatbed on May 16, 2012 1:28:21 GMT -5
Great work as always!
Jon
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Post by skip20 on May 16, 2012 5:11:17 GMT -5
Thank you for the kind commits. Is good to hear from somebody. The radiator goes up front & replaces the XT6 rad., gas tank also. That's were I will be working on next. Will be mounting the clutch/brake/gas pedals, rad & gas tank. Do some plumbing for brakes & gas & a little wiring to see if I can get the engine started. Will be using the XT6 shifter, which I have already turned the handle around on so it point to the rear. Also have all of the XT6 stuff for sale. 2 engines 2.7 - 6 cyl, 1 - 5 speed trans FWD, rad., wiring harness, & other misc stuff. |
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Post by skip20 on May 16, 2012 7:57:06 GMT -5
Well, just spent $172.00 for gasket!!  There goes the Beer money  Valve covers spark plug seals 20 cover rubber seals intake & exhaust Should get them by end of next week, so will remove & clean up all of the parts. No. Qty Line Part No. Description List Sell Extension Code 92 SUBARU SVX 6-3319 3.3L DOHC 2 1 WOR W0133-1634882 VALVE COVER GASKET 17.02 3 1 WOR W0133-1635006 VALVE COVER GASKET 13.40 4 20 WOR W0133-1643740 VALVE COVER GASKET 1.39 5 1 WOR W0133-1634959 SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL 1.97 6 1 WOR W0133-1636039 SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL 1.97 7 1 WOR W0133-1638348 SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL 7.31 8 1 WOR W0133-1654717 SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL 5.16 9 1 999 FRT FREIGHT 10.00 10 2 WOR W0133-1634092 Exhaust Manifold Gask 10.20, went up to $41.00 pair 11 2 WOR W0133-1634092 PLENUM GASKET 10.20 12 1 WOR W0133-1653097 PCV VALVE 5.19 The dealer wanted $140.00 for just the valve cover setup. I've seen the Exhaust Manifold Gasket on eBay for $30.00 EACH!!! Found these guys on Ebay & called them in Mercedes, Texas Now for the FUN part, GET DOWN & DIRTY  |
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Post by 48flatbed on May 17, 2012 2:12:10 GMT -5
Skip,
hasn't been all that long ago (maybe 15 years) I bought Fel-Pro - Ford small block gasket kits for $38! That was for every gasket except the carb base gasket! And Fel-Pro were the good ones you could buy jobber sets for less than $30! Bought lots of them in my drag racing days. Now just the head gaskets are that much. LOL
Jon
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Post by skip20 on May 17, 2012 5:22:37 GMT -5
Skip, hasn't been all that long ago (maybe 15 years) I bought Fel-Pro - Ford small block gasket kits for $38! That was for every gasket except the carb base gasket! And Fel-Pro were the good ones you could buy jobber sets for less than $30! Bought lots of them in my drag racing days. Now just the head gaskets are that much. LOL Jon And you could repaint the whole car with change of color for about $100.00 for everything. Now a gal. of paint is like $250.00 plus |
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Post by 48flatbed on May 18, 2012 5:39:33 GMT -5
So true!! I used to do some paint for the local roundy round racers, you could get quarts of miss-mixed for around 5 bucks!! Racers didn't care as long as it was flashy! It was dupont Centari. I dont even know if they still make it. I bought dupont Hot Hues Molten Orange Candy for my daughters car this year and it is $83 a pint!! but it is beautiful!! Jon
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Post by skip20 on May 18, 2012 5:44:27 GMT -5
Well some good news, can remove both valve cover & spark plugs with the engine the frame. So that will help in the future when I need to work on it. 
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Post by skip20 on May 18, 2012 5:46:35 GMT -5
Anybody know what this is? Was in the engine compartment. I'm thinking it has to do with the cruise control.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 18, 2012 5:51:21 GMT -5
Started to work up front by removing all the the XT6 parts to get ready for the SVX parts like the rad & cond. Also removed the brake master & pedals to install the 3 pedal w/clutch. Everything is different, so there will be some head banging.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 18, 2012 17:39:11 GMT -5
Skip, if your heater hoses go down at all, bleeding the cooling syst will be hard. I have a flush tee just before the upper heater core connection. They must recirculate. Also the stock subi rad has a bleed screw on top of the coolant return tank that needs to be there. If you are using a different rad install someway of bleeding the upper rad hose.
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Post by skip20 on May 18, 2012 19:44:48 GMT -5
Skip, if your heater hoses go down at all, bleeding the cooling syst will be hard. I have a flush tee just before the upper heater core connection. They must recirculate. Also the stock subi rad has a bleed screw on top of the coolant return tank that needs to be there. If you are using a different rad install someway of bleeding the upper rad hose. Yes the rad will be sitting lower then the high point on the engine, so will need to burp it like a baby. Will add a filler to the inlet of the engine with a burpper.  |
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Post by skip20 on May 19, 2012 7:11:19 GMT -5
After about 3 hours of fitting, cutting & banging got the pedal assy w/brake & clutch tacked in place.  Also started to cut off the elec motor mount from the XT6 firewall or now just a bulkhead. Ended up using the XT6 brake booster as it's smaller the the Outback unit.  Will have to remount the Toyota wiper mount & shorten the rod for it. |
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Post by skip20 on May 19, 2012 9:50:52 GMT -5
Got it all tacked in & the pedals are bolted to the firewall.  Next, to start filling in the holes & some sealing. Making sure everything is straight & level!  |
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Post by mj on May 19, 2012 9:55:48 GMT -5
Skip, I'm totally taken in by your project. Awesome work.
You could write a book on it.
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Post by skip20 on May 19, 2012 12:48:52 GMT -5
Skip, I'm totally taken in by your project. Awesome work. You could write a book on it. Hi MJ, No I couldn't because I can' t spell & hate to "tpye " plus It hasn't been finished in YEARS, same as the book! ;D ;D ;D The 1st picture was posted Jan.1 2009 |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 19, 2012 13:57:25 GMT -5
Skip, I'm totally taken in by your project. Awesome work. You could write a book on it. He is. This is page 8 of volime 2. Volume 1 got lost with the old site, guess he just has to redo volume 1. |
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Post by skip20 on May 19, 2012 14:38:35 GMT -5
Skip, I'm totally taken in by your project. Awesome work. You could write a book on it. He is. This is page 8 of volime 2. Volume 1 got lost with the old site, guess he just has to redo volume 1. You mean I have to start ALL OVER instead of just changing all the time?  Wait till I get to Volume 15 & it still isn't on the road. But it looks good on the Heist anyway. Get a lot of comments on it, They don't believe what they see. Working on a gas tank design now. The one I tried before, not happy with it. |
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Post by skip20 on May 19, 2012 20:09:38 GMT -5
Got air intake & MAP setup figured out with some parts I had laying around the garage.  Then I figured I would remove the intake to clean & paint Yellow. Have some Yellow Silicone Engine Vacuum Hoses on order. Nobody said it was a SOB to do so. Hope I can put it back together. |
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Post by skip20 on May 20, 2012 8:54:21 GMT -5
Today working on changing the Mustang Hyd pump over to a Chevy unit. Luck is with me, the hoses are different but has the same treads. So will go the HD for some 90 degree fitting to fit the Mustang rams. The Chevy pumps has check vale which will hold the rams up without bleed back. I already got the new fitting to shorten the hoses as you can see from the rear setup.  A little history on the rams. I used Honda Del Sol trunk hinges & had on add a bracket on the side to mount the ram. Great thing about this setup is it works great & ever better it push's the hinge back about 1" before the lifting starts. Perfect to help clear the body. 1st testing.   Mounting to framing which mount behind the bumper areas.  Mounted to body   Up, Up & Away!  Got the 90 fittings & the Chevy pump is installed in the front. Still need to bleed the air out later. |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 20, 2012 13:02:18 GMT -5
What....no video. Looking sharp.
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Post by Jeff Troy on May 20, 2012 16:09:05 GMT -5
Hi, Skip, Car looks amazing. I use Totally Stainless and Fastening Products of Lancaster for my stainless fasteners, but if you still need those #10 x 1-1/4-inch hex-head machine cap screws, try Fastening Products. They will have whatever you in stock and ready to ship. Ask for Denny or Trina and tell them I told you to call. Fastening Products of Lancaster (PA): 217-299-5771 or tap to Denny or Trina online at www.fasteningproducts.netNice people and excellent prices - absolutely ANYTHING in fasteners of every description. Warmest... |
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There goes the Beer money 
