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Post by skip20 on May 31, 2012 21:23:14 GMT -5
This is what I got under the tile board.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 1, 2012 5:29:15 GMT -5
Trimmed the front air box to 5". Now to setup the steering column & brake/clutch assy. Need to make sure that there's clearance for the pedals & to service the units. Then keep building up the fiberglass fire wall. Turns out the Subaru XT6 wiper motor is the same as the 280ZX, so will use it as the wiring will match the XT6 harness will I will be using less the engine control parts. that is from the Subaru SVX. Also got a 1.5" tubing bent to mount under the dash to mount thing to it. You can see it leaning on the tire. Sorry to early for taking pictures.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 1, 2012 20:03:01 GMT -5
Not to much today. Worked on getting the steering column with brake/clutch assy lined up. Need a little more trimming to get everything center to seat. Here are a few pictures if you can make head & tails out of them.    |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jun 2, 2012 4:21:54 GMT -5
What brake booster and master are you using?
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Post by skip20 on Jun 2, 2012 4:24:42 GMT -5
What brake booster and master are you using? It's from the XT6, smaller dia. the the Outback. Pedals from the Outback. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 2, 2012 19:12:05 GMT -5
 Noe the fun begins! Got the panel for the Brake lined up & ticked in place. Next to build the firewall around it & fiberglass that section.  Sunday 6/30/12, back to square one on firewall. Body wasn't straight. Need to get the pumps wired to close the hatch & square the body up.
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Post by skip20 on Jun 4, 2012 10:31:01 GMT -5
OK here it is! the rear window up/down & the Bradley GT II SS flipping it's lids. You will notice using the Honda Del Sol trunk hinges & GM rams & pump that the hitch move back away from the body about 2" before lifting. This helps to give clearance on the body They will have caddy elec. pull down trunk catch to pull them down tight with pins on the top to aline them to the body. A board will be made with the 555 timer chip to release the catch's a few seconds before the rams move the hitches. also a safety switch so the can't be opened when the car is moving. May add some gas rams to help the jerking. There is no bracing on the front hood yet, that's why it looks flippy. www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4Sz8tycB9M&feature=youtu.beThis is in HD, so you can go full screen! Next to do is now is setup & aline the body to the frame, then trim the hatches to fit. The other videos show a Honda Goldwing I built into a Trike using the early Jag rear end & custom built fiberglass body. Finished last July. That's why I wasn't working on the Bradley. Also a winter project of building a T-Shirt inkjet printer, still working on it! |
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 4, 2012 14:36:08 GMT -5
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Post by skip20 on Jun 4, 2012 16:46:51 GMT -5
I remember it well  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 6, 2012 6:47:27 GMT -5
This is what my friend & I came up with to get the body alined with the frame. Got a 5/8" x 20' square tubing & cut it in half. them drilled holes for dry wall screws. Mounted them on the body mold line, which hadn't been sanded off.  It covers the whole tires which I used to center body. Also help to get the front wheels straight.  Then making sure the body was ok front to back & the hatches closed, got about 5/8" on the pike of the tires all the way around the car. That's checking the tires front & back on the highest pike of each tire. Found that's these a 1/8" toe-in on the front also. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 7, 2012 12:53:26 GMT -5
OK, back to the brake/ clutch sheet metal.  Got it setup AGAIN & braced in place. Next will build up the firewall around it & glass it in place from the inside . Will also be glassed outside which will encase it for better support.  |
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Post by horen2tas on Jun 7, 2012 13:53:28 GMT -5
Skip, it would be great if you show some pix of how you set up and do that,
I've wondered about glassing in metal parts and the best way to do it.
Thanks for all the great info so far,
Mike Horen
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Post by skip20 on Jun 7, 2012 14:51:36 GMT -5
Skip, it would be great if you show some pix of how you set up and do that, I've wondered about glassing in metal parts and the best way to do it. Thanks for all the great info so far, Mike Horen Will do, the best I can. Finished the mock up of the next step in building the firewall. Used the white tile board & brown packing tape. Will be fiberglassing the inside tonight I hope. Remove the boards/ tape & rough up the metal plate & add a few more layer to the outside in the AM.   You well notice I have all the holes tape over. will drill them out & tape them from the inside before I do any glass outside. Then drill them out again. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 7, 2012 16:24:07 GMT -5
Ok, got 3-4 layer of mat glassed out on the inside. MADE sure to ROLL it out & pat it down to remove any air bubbles. Reinforced the side panels as will be using the cross tube modified from the Subaru Outback which will be bolted thought the sides. Wait for it to cure.  The dark areas are from the overlap of the mat. The light area's may need more glass. But don't forget., will be glassing the outside also. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 7, 2012 18:35:52 GMT -5
Pulled the wood & tape off & now have a front firewall. From above!  Here's a close up of the brake sheet metal.  I have since sanded off the wood that got stuck due to reusing the same board. Also mix up a batch of resin putty & fill in any low spots & round off corners. Will sand & glass in the AM. Next will be setting up the steering column. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 9, 2012 4:26:12 GMT -5
I know, it doesn't show much, but laid 2 mats this AM. Next will be clean it up, drill out the holes. Build the wheel slopes. Start on the slope down to clear the pedals.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 9, 2012 10:19:34 GMT -5
Cardboard has been cut away, holes drilled out & brake/pedals installed. It's looking good to go to next step?   |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 10, 2012 4:02:23 GMT -5
This is how I'm going to shape the wheel well cup to the body. Using 3/8" form & a jack. Will cover the inside with Alum. Tape.   |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 10, 2012 11:44:45 GMT -5
A little update. Finished glassing in the driver side on the inside.  Here you can see the 1/2' plywood over the frame.  And now the right side is all glassed up also.  Have also been adding to the side panel where the cross bar will be mounted to. Will add about 2 layer to the outside as will. Need to do will be the slope down to the floor, making sure the pedals have the clearance needed.Bit by bit it's getting done. Find it easier to do a little at a time to get it right. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 10, 2012 19:13:04 GMT -5
Here it is, STAGE 7 or 9 or  ? Glass the section behind the pedals. 
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Post by skip20 on Jun 11, 2012 7:24:11 GMT -5
Next section! this clears the frame horns in back. Notice the paper weight.  Next will be to fill the sides for clearance of frame & work on the center hump for shifter & brakes, plus all the hoses from front to back. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2012 4:46:24 GMT -5
Installed the rear sheet metal under the rear window. Using 1/2" hardboard, made spacer from the side frame to the floor. Covered it with Alum Tape. These will slid off after I remove the body. l may go ahead and glass (2-3 layers) the sides down to the floor & let it cure. Then will cont. up to the fire wall.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2012 7:06:31 GMT -5
Well, just went & did the WHOLE KIT & KABOODLE. Finished trimming it out & blew it out to get all the junk out of the inside. Laid up 3 layers of 1.5oz mat to the whole floor. Then rolled it out, that's the secret to fiberglassing, you MUST roll it out to remove the bubble & excess resin.   After it's cured, will sand it to remove any hairs sticking up. Then will be laying some very heavy cloth to add strength & one more layer of mat on top of that. It will also have more added under the body when it's removed. Then onto the console. |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2012 9:23:21 GMT -5
Laid the heavy clothe & soaked it with resin. Then one layer of mat on top of it. You can see it in the picture. Got this off eBay years ago as scarp from a boat year.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2012 13:26:08 GMT -5
 I don't believe it!!! The old Bradley GT II has a floor w/o a VW pan Here it is from under. You can see where I had the can sitting also.  And again the inside w/o the white board.  Onward & upward!
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2012 15:03:38 GMT -5
Working on setting up the steering column. It's out of the Subaru XT6 & has all the switch & what not's on it, plus it Lift up/down which will help getting in/out of this Frankenstein.  |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jun 12, 2012 18:51:30 GMT -5
Very well done. You must go through a lot of brushes and rollers. Cool seat covers.
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Post by skip20 on Jun 12, 2012 19:49:03 GMT -5
Very well done. You must go through a lot of brushes and rollers. Cool seat covers. I get the brushes at HF & clean them out often with Acetone. Used 1- 2" & 1-3" brush building the firewall & floor. Still have them to. I'm to cheap to thown them away till they fall apart. The fiberglass roller is metal (not paint roller) & gets cleaned also. "Cool seat covers" it's the Hawaiian in me!  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 13, 2012 5:26:11 GMT -5
Man that steering column can be a pain in the butt. In/Out, In/Out, In/Out, In/Out, In/Out, In/Out! But I hope it's where it's supports to be. Had to make a box so the seal would fit the lower column.  |
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Post by skip20 on Jun 13, 2012 11:45:52 GMT -5
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Noe the fun begins!
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I don't believe
