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Post by skip20 on Dec 9, 2011 14:00:08 GMT -5
Got the 12 holes 6" deep drill in the concrete for the anchor bolts. Man what a dustyyyyy job. Leveled the posts & tighten the bolts. Guess I have a thick slab on the floor as I didn't hit dirt. Next run the cables & hoses. Moving the pump assy to the side, so cut bracket off & will weld back on. Showing the anchor bolts.
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Post by skip20 on Dec 9, 2011 16:48:31 GMT -5
The top doesn't have a cross bar. Everything runs under the heavy plat on the floor The lift is basically finished. Need to run the power line, then adjust the 2 cables. Went together pretty easy. Needed help to lift the post up & wiggle into place. Then the power unit is heavy, but used a 2x4 to support it & got the nuts & bolts started. Moved the power unit to the side so had to cut it off & weld it back on. Touch paint to come. Very nice for $1620.00 shipped from GA.
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Post by skip20 on Dec 10, 2011 20:15:25 GMT -5
Ran the 10 gauge wiring from the box over to the motor. Added a twist plug on the motor in case I will ever need to remove it. Used the same circuit breaker as the mig weld seeing how only one will be on at a time. Looks like I still need to fine tune the cable ropes & the left side safety brake is not hooking on. Goes down VERY slow without a car on it!: Will I do have to remove the pump assy. due to it hitting the lift going up. Will need to cut off the bracket & move it over.
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Post by horen2tas on Dec 10, 2011 20:54:02 GMT -5
Maybe it'll go down faster with a car or weight on it, my jack does for sure!
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Post by skip20 on Dec 11, 2011 12:44:12 GMT -5
The 1st lift. Car is a little sideways so had to remove the rear tire to get the lift arm in there.
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Post by skip20 on Dec 11, 2011 13:17:27 GMT -5
Here it all the up. The is showing the bottom of the car. The car up. Got up 5' and maybe able to go another 6" with the junk off the roof. Would still have to bend a little at 5'11" I installed a cable stop 4" from the ceiling so it will shut down if I hit it. Instead of 5 hours, it took me 4 days to be up & running, A lot of breaks. 1st day - raised the posts 2nd day - anchored posts & assy'ed them, welded the pump bracket on & mounted the pump 3nd day - ran the 220 volt power, ran the lift & it hit the pump 4th day - cut the pump bracket off & moved it over, finished adj. cables, lifted the car. IT DIDN'T FALL DOWN Now I need to clean up the big mess & figure where to put stuff. Then disassy. the platform & store it away till the next time. Then will be able to bring the car back down & straighten it out. Got the top of the platform cleaned off, after a lot of 2" drywall screws the 3/4" boards can off.
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Post by skip20 on Dec 13, 2011 20:51:16 GMT -5
OK, last picture of the car lift. IT"S FINISHED Platform is disassy'ed & put away till the next project .! I ever sweep up the floor? Still come's down a little faster but still slow. Remember it's a 9,000 lb Lift & the Bradley weight is lower then 2,000 lb w?o the engine & a full gas tank in it.
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Post by skip20 on Dec 21, 2011 17:51:21 GMT -5
Screwed on some 1.5" x 3/16" strap to the sides to help aline the body to the frame & wheels.
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Post by skip20 on Apr 24, 2012 10:59:06 GMT -5
Looky what I finally found in the Junk Yard on Friday 4/21. I nice Subaru 3.3 230 HP 6 cyl motor my Bradley II. It only took 7 Hours (8 with travel time) to get it out & the wiring harness for the eng. & dash with the ECM. Will need to strip down the main harness for just the eng. control. Will be mounting the Turbo 5 Speed on it then into the car.
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Post by dawgdk on Apr 24, 2012 20:44:14 GMT -5
looks great Skip!! Question for ya, if I take an older 2 door blazer chassis and drop the front end is it possible to put to put say a subaru cradle and mount in the back for mid engine?? Still in the bench building stage so I wanted to see what others thought of this idea. I've seen where people have put the toronado transaxle this way before and thought the subaru might be a better option for the bradley and the blazer chassis is good length chassis to use because you wouldn't have to shorten it.
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Post by skip20 on Apr 26, 2012 4:37:45 GMT -5
looks great Skip!! Question for ya, if I take an older 2 door blazer chassis and drop the front end is it possible to put to put say a subaru cradle and mount in the back for mid engine?? Still in the bench building stage so I wanted to see what others thought of this idea. I've seen where people have put the toronado transaxle this way before and thought the subaru might be a better option for the bradley and the blazer chassis is good length chassis to use because you wouldn't have to shorten it. GOOD ONE Not knowing the Blazer (being a FORD man), I guess you could cut the frame down to the wheel base of the Bradley, if it's not there already. You could weld in the Suby cross member in the back, but you would need a IRS for the rear end. Maybe a T-Bird. Also front spring's are to strong & would need to be replace, plus the ride height of the Blazer is higher. If you can weld, then look at my VERY LONG TERM build for ideas on using An IRS rear end & a front end, join the 2 together with a frame, the mount the Suby in the back. Seeing how I finally found the 3.3 eng, I now have 2- 3.0 XT6 engines for sell. Keep us posted as what you do. Kit Cars are fun & you can do anything you went, just safe.
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Post by skip20 on Apr 30, 2012 15:51:30 GMT -5
Today, went to the junk yard to get a 5 speed trans. Found one & took it out, but one bolt on the clutch plate would NOT come out & I was tired. On the way out found another on so will go back on Tuesday. Did get the pedal assy. w/ brake & clutch master & a few things off the eng, like injector plugs which had been cut off of my engine 3.3.
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Post by skip20 on May 1, 2012 10:56:20 GMT -5
Another great Am in the junk yard Got the 5 speed trans out of a 98 Subaru Outback with flywheel & no good clutch. Got the shifter just in case. Will need the trans mount. Will need to make axle adp. again from Suby to the Toyota rear end. Will check what I have, but think they won't fit. Back on Wed. to cut out the engine cross member as all the batt's died today. Will also cut out the firewall section for the brake & clutch mount. Order a rebuilt Alt. today for $100.00 shipped. Will order a new pressure plate assy after I double check anything. Will have about $600.0 in setting up the larger engine & trans into the Bradley II. Need to wire in the injector plugs also.
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Post by skip20 on May 2, 2012 18:01:12 GMT -5
OK, you've seen the 3.3 & 5 peed, now here's the rest of the story. Below are the other items for the new engine & trans install. Brake booster/ master, clutch master. pedal assy -gas, brake, clutch. Look close & you will see the section of the firewall for them also! Rad, twin fans, AC Cond., upper & lower section of the frame just in case. The wiring jungle which I will need to take out the EMC wiring. And the rest of the parts. Engine cradle, trans mount & got 2 steering joints to use for the shifter rod. And what I hope its the Alt bracket. Now the FUN begins. By they way, now have 2 - SUBARU 2.7 6 cyl XT6 engine, 1- 5 speed turbo trans for it, complete wiring harness, & other misc. items for your Bradley engine change. PM with "?"
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 3, 2012 5:04:31 GMT -5
Are you using the subi plug to disable the rear output? Shortening the trans?
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Post by skip20 on May 3, 2012 7:49:40 GMT -5
Are you using the subi plug to disable the rear output? Shortening the trans? Nope, won't work with this trans it looks like, it has the plate on top of trans, need a 99 or newer for it & mine is a 1998. Engine is out of the 1992 SVX May use the shaft conn. Subaspool 4WD to 2WD lock $200 AUD inc shipping. Ordered it & it's $215.00 US www.subarugears.com/index_files/Products.htmlI think there's room of the length, but will check first. May have to cut into the fiberglass trunk I already made.
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Post by skip20 on May 6, 2012 8:54:27 GMT -5
OK, hopefully I'm able to cancel the order for the axle lock. Took apart the rear of of 5 speed AWD trans. After checking it & disassy. of the inside parts not needed, I started thinking, (wow that coursed a headache). SOOOO, Got out the trusty old 4.5" cut off wheel (tried band saw, but no cut) & started to cut off the FRONT/REAR splines caps. Should be able to get them TIG Welded together & save me $200.00. Will make the block off plate for the rear using the rear cover as a template. It's laying off to the left. Here you can see inside the rear of the tran & see the 2 shafts that need to connect to make it 2WD instead of AWD. Remember, It's a mid-engine setup. Forgot to put the picture in! Remember, It's a mid-engine setup.
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Post by skip20 on May 6, 2012 19:20:19 GMT -5
OK, was able to cancel the drive shaft coupler in time. After I cut off the 2 parts, put them in my lathe to cut them down to length. Cut the larger one so as to have a lip between the two. Put a rag into the trans around the shafts, Trans has been drained. Used the mig to hopefully hold in in position. NO FIRE! This is were the will be tig welded. After which it will go back in the lathe to clean up the back side where the washers/nut mount. Here it sitting inside the trans. An inside view.
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Post by skip20 on May 8, 2012 3:02:01 GMT -5
OK, got the parts tig welded & cleaned up in the lathe ready to install. Hope it still fits! To back up a little, the reason I mig tack the parts is there is a little play between them & it was the only to keep them inline before trip down to tig shop. It fits All bolted down & nut is pinged over to lock it. Was able to get both crankcase sencer for $40.00. So installed the new Alt & belt. So the front is all buttoned up. Guess it's time to start on the wiring project & injector plug wire.
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Post by big bob on May 8, 2012 11:02:28 GMT -5
this thing is so off the hook, i cant even comprehend it. when i think about the little stuff ive sweated over !!!
keep it up..
big bob
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Post by skip20 on May 8, 2012 16:16:02 GMT -5
Moved the 3 wheel car & dropped the Bradley to the floor. It was up on the hoist! Flipped the rear section & removed the old Trans that was sitting in there. Removed the upper support parts to clean the way for the new engine. Luck was on my side today as the axle adp. I had made fit the new trans. They go from the Subby AWD to Toyota Supra rear end. Here's a shot of the engine compartment & rear end, you can see the pump to flip the rear body also. Will need to remove (cutout) the engine cross-member to mount the newer modal & also set up the trans mount
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 8, 2012 19:38:23 GMT -5
What did you do for axle adapters?
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Post by skip20 on May 8, 2012 20:40:22 GMT -5
What did you do for axle adapters? Looks like that was loss with the old forum crash! So here a brake down, on the lathe. Cut down 2 - 1/2" disc to fit the Supra axle, then bolt it together. The cut the center to mount mount to Subby stud. The I cut down the Subaru CV inner joint to push fit into the 1/2" disk. Line them up on the lathe to run true & tack welder to hold. You can see the dial at top of picture. All of the steps in the disk matches up to the Toyota axle fro a tight fit. The off set in the center is the Subaru CV joint, or whats left of it. They were then Tig Welded as I just had done on the Trans part. Slipped them on the Subaru Trans axles & pinned then with the stock pins. Then it was just a matter of bolting the Toyota axles with Grade 5 bolts with lock nuts. That's why they are not tight in the picture. Would have to buy new lock nuts if removed.
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Post by skip20 on May 8, 2012 21:00:01 GMT -5
Will be adp'ing the dune bugge shift linkage to alum rear plate when I make it. Here it is with the Subaru XT6 engine 2.7 145HP & turbo 5 speed all mounted in the mid. That all come out now for the 3.3 - 230HP engine
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Post by skip20 on May 9, 2012 8:10:14 GMT -5
OK, it in there being held by the jack. Looks like will need to move into the rear wall 1" or 2". May lose the elec. Honda Del Sol rear window also! Engine mount, trans mount & rear bar will need to be redone also.
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Post by skip20 on May 9, 2012 15:17:28 GMT -5
BOY, I DON"T believe it!!! The engine is IN & in the cross member. Cruised the web & found a maybe that the EG33 would fit in the XT6 cross member, so I tried it. It fell right in, without a fight. Clearance on the rear window bulkhead is tight, but I think I can cut the top & bent it in to get maybe an inch or two. Do have to make a new trans mount cross member & it sits right where the rear stab. bar ( bracket on your right, Left was trans mount ) was bolted to. May be able to build a crooked cross member using the old frame mount. And here's a side & rear view. Don't believe it, pull the engine back out, put the mounts back on & Wazoo, it's in.
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Post by skip20 on May 10, 2012 16:36:45 GMT -5
Think I have the Trans mount figured out & still be able to keep the Stab. Bar in place. Mounted all of the upper cross braces after having to spread the frame apart.
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Post by skip20 on May 12, 2012 13:57:44 GMT -5
Got the trans mount figured out, able to use the old frame mounts after trimming the cross member down about 3". Will need to go to junk yard & get the rubber mount for the rear section. Also got the Alum plate cut out for the rear of trans to block it off. Used 1/2" as that's all I had laying around here to fit it. Started with the cut off wheel , then flipped the band saw up & finished cutting it out on that. Now to set it up on the Mill to drill the mounting hole & shifter rod hole. Will make a gasket for it then mount to the rear of trans.
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Post by skip20 on May 12, 2012 18:52:03 GMT -5
Finished making the 1/2" Alum plate for the rear of Transaxle. Cut basic shape, the using rear section, lined up the pin holes. Drill pin holes the slipped on the panel together. Center pound all the holes & drill them. Used a hole saw on the mill to cut out the shifter rod hole. Cleaned up all of the holes the bolted to two together. Used a grinder to get it down to match the trans, then sanded them for a good finish. Will mount to trans & setup up the shifter linkage on Sunday.
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Post by skip20 on May 13, 2012 10:42:13 GMT -5
Here is the shifter linkage I had with the XT6 Trans. Info on it. www.mooreparts.com/store/product/7659/AC711809/AC711809 Jamar Performance Mid Engine Shifter Linkage, Use With #ac711802-36 Shift Rod Kit Sitting on the new trans to figure out how to mount it!
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