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Post by skip20 on Jul 26, 2010 12:04:38 GMT -5
How many man hours have you put into it? I lost track, but who cares! It's not the man hours or the money, but the fun of doing it. You need to be able to think in 3D & do it by the right steps, or you will be redoing it.
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Post by skip20 on Jul 26, 2010 12:11:43 GMT -5
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Post by Charlie on Jul 26, 2010 16:39:52 GMT -5
Thats true! It is looking great!
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JohnDriver
Junior Member
life is what happens while you make other plans
Posts: 63
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Post by JohnDriver on Jul 28, 2010 19:55:27 GMT -5
anyone looking for fiberglass stuf, I have been dealing with fibreglast their web site fibreglast.com get on the mailing list and they send you specials ect.. also they carry this awesome carbon fiber look fiberglass but its hella cheaper than the real stuff,and it isnt cheasy like parts that are painted carbonLOOK....
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 28, 2010 21:03:18 GMT -5
anyone looking for fiberglass stuf, I have been dealing with fibreglast their web site fibreglast.com get on the mailing list and they send you specials ect.. also they carry this awesome carbon fiber look fiberglass but its hella cheaper than the real stuff,and it isnt cheasy like parts that are painted carbonLOOK.... Very interesting products, thank you for the link
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Post by skip20 on Jul 29, 2010 11:55:11 GMT -5
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Post by topdude on Jul 29, 2010 18:07:56 GMT -5
Skip this is awesome work do you always use torn roughly 4 by 8 inch fiberglass to do the work? What about larger pieces of f-glass for big areas?
Best....
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Post by skip20 on Jul 30, 2010 5:25:42 GMT -5
Skip this is awesome work do you always use torn roughly 4 by 8 inch fiberglass to do the work? What about larger pieces of f-glass for big areas? Best.... I buy the 1.5oz mat in 40" rolls, then I rip off what I need for the whole job. Your rip it, NOT CUT! If you cut it you will have a sharp edge which make a hump on the next layer with air bubbles you can't roll out. I just finished building a GoldWing Trike, molding a body. So there's a lot of fiber glassing info at the link below, but it's long post. www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/79845-10.htmlFiber glass work starts on page 10 as above. with mods to the trunk area.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2010 7:24:31 GMT -5
Started today with making a Fiberglass wind shield. This will be attached to the inside of frame to help support frame as I mount it to the Bradley GTII. Layed up 3 layers of 1.5oz mat & rolled it out to remove any bubbles. Will trim to match WS.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2010 9:51:59 GMT -5
Here is the fiberglass WS all trimmed & take a sun bath to harden.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2010 16:47:55 GMT -5
Here you can see how much of the W/S area I removed to mount the 280Z W/S. Have also removed the gel coat from the posts & dash in prep to fiberglass the frame to body. Again a lot of dust was kicked up. Still need to do finish trim on the roof area. Here you see the different angle of the New W/S to the Bradley GTII. Also shorten the W/S side post in center by 1/2" as I won't be using the chrome trim around it. Plan on using the wiper assy. as well. The fiberglass W/S is pop riveted to the inside frame as will as the Z air vents I plan on using. Here it is with the glass sitting in it. I will NOT be making this a kit to mount the "Z" W/S, as you can see the amount of work needed, plus I don't have another GTII to try it on. I will keep posting picture as I work on it. Finally got a new camera so the pictures should be better now.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2010 9:30:40 GMT -5
OK, finally committed, Have glassed in both W/S posts! ;D Drying time is break time! drying is fast in this heat. Will trim & grind down when dry, then mix up some resin paste to shape the post area. Will grind to shape the lay more mat down. Have also glassed the posts to the body. The rear section was done a long time ago.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2010 12:05:08 GMT -5
Got the posts trimmed & sanded. Notice W/S has been removed. Removed gel coat & grinded the W/S top to feather edge. Layed out 4 layers of mat to apply. Mat has been applied & rolled out. Wait to dry & grind down, apply mat in center where vice is.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2010 13:53:31 GMT -5
The roof area has been trimmed & sanded.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 16, 2010 15:47:03 GMT -5
Beautiful work, as always.
From your planning and design to your professional execution, I'm truly impressed.
Warmest...
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2010 15:55:19 GMT -5
Beautiful work, as always. From your planning and design to your professional execution, I'm truly impressed. Warmest... Thank you, that means a lot coming from you. Just an old time back yard mechanic. I've made up some resin putty using Cabasil (? spelling) & resin. Added cat & mixed well. Applied with stick & wait to dry. This will help fill the gap on the posts & build up the lip for the wind shield as the sides don't have the edge like the top & bottom. Then will add some mat after shaping the posts.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2010 16:06:56 GMT -5
Here are the last of the old pictures from last year & old forum. Basically showing where I stopped working on it. That's it. The new camera is taking better pictures now.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2010 16:08:59 GMT -5
This was a nose job idea, didn't go over to well.
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Post by 48flatbed on Aug 16, 2010 16:12:11 GMT -5
Wonderful workmanship! I look forward to ur posts each time I log in. I have used a white powdery stuff to thicken resin for shaping fillets in model airplanes. It is much lighter than using resin alone, is Cabasil something similar to that? once again super work! Jon
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2010 16:28:48 GMT -5
Wonderful workmanship! I look forward to ur posts each time I log in. I have used a white powdery stuff to thicken resin for shaping fillets in model airplanes. It is much lighter than using resin alone, is Cabasil something similar to that? once again super work! Jon Yes it's a white power bubbles, mixed with resin.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2010 6:56:44 GMT -5
Started to glass the lower W/S to dash. Making sure that the GLASS fits the frame & shimming as needed. No fun trying to glass under, keeps falling down. Think it may have to do with the "G" word. You can see the wet "U" shape I have to work with.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2010 9:06:58 GMT -5
Will be using the ELEC.POWER STEERING on this Bradley. It's from a Subaru XT6. The firewall (white) is also from the XT6, so need to work on finishing mounting it & the air box on to match the 280Z. Now to get anything to fit in there w Wiper motor & linkage still to go. Changing the rear side lower scoop from the Mustang to a set I found on a MR2
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2010 9:21:26 GMT -5
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 17, 2010 12:45:52 GMT -5
42flatbed,
The white stuff is micro-balloons, offered into the the hobby industry by (K&B Mfg. - now defunct), Hobbico and a few others. Micro-balloons are actually very tiny glass beads, so tiny they appear powderlike.
It's great for wing and tail surface fillets, but you need to be very conservative if considering MB's for full-scale automotive applications. Micro-balloons detract from the strength of the resin compound -- the more you add, the weaker the cured compound. This is one of the key reasons that polyester or epoxy resin and catalyst with micro-balloons added sands so much more easily than resin/cat alone.
The vibration level in a fiberglass body is probably higher than in a steel-body car, so I'd be very prudent about the level of MB's I added, if any at all.
Warmest...
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Post by 20niner on Aug 17, 2010 15:09:43 GMT -5
We used microballoons a lot back in my solar car days. Mostly to fill the edges of composite panels to protect the nomex honeycomb.
We got ours from 3M, although I don't know if they're commercially available from 3M though. Also, as I remember, they're small enough beads to inhale, so we ALWAYS used respirators when working with microballoons. You don't want your lungs filled with glass beads.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2010 16:03:35 GMT -5
I get mine at a Fiber Glass supplier locally. Comes in a 1# box. Boy these pages are LOOOOOOOONG
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Post by skip20 on Aug 20, 2010 15:42:13 GMT -5
Cut off the front of the Subaru XT6 firewall air box. Problem #1- Looks like the wiper assy. mounting brackets under the cowl section. Will need to figure out how to mount the brackets to hold the wipers! Problem #2 - The wiper motor wants to sit on top of the Brake Booster. So will need to move it over about 6" to center. Will need to shorten motor arm to wipers. Problem #3 - The Elec. Power Steering Motor sits under the cowl half way. Need to make 1/4" plate to move the mount out more. Old camera, Batt dead on new one New camera.
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dean
Junior Member
Posts: 77
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Post by dean on Aug 21, 2010 9:11:25 GMT -5
Skip,
I am working on putting a 280z windshield in mine as well do you think you would sell the fiberglass copy of the windshield you made when your done with it that would save me the trouble of buying the windshield before i need it and making it.
Dean
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Post by skip20 on Aug 21, 2010 10:29:55 GMT -5
Skip, I am working on putting a 280z windshield in mine as well do you think you would sell the fiberglass copy of the windshield you made when your done with it that would save me the trouble of buying the windshield before i need it and making it. Dean I still have the mold of the one I,m using w/ the air vent. Could make one for you, but not sure bout shipping. PM me your address. Will be some time before I'm finished with mine with the body work done to make a mold of it.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 23, 2010 6:26:10 GMT -5
Working on the W/S post & wiper assy today. Installed 5 - 3/16" steel pop rivets on the rear section of the W/S posts to add a little support help in it. Mixed up another patch of putty to get the final shape to the posts. The putty has NO strength to it, used only as a filler to shape Will lay 2 - 3 layers of mat over it after sanding to shape. Using a small drum sander in the drill, I finished shaping the 2 holes for the wiper assy., rounding over the edges. Next will need to weld support brackets to mount the holders for the wiper arms.
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