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Post by skip20 on Oct 31, 2012 14:46:56 GMT -5
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Post by skip20 on Nov 2, 2012 15:59:07 GMT -5
Well the cab flipped over again, need to slow down in these corners. Easier to work on the rear window with is now in black primer. Next to reinstall the window for the last time I hope.  |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 3, 2012 16:01:00 GMT -5
Rear window area is done for now. Window & seal are mounted.  Working on the wiper linkage & mounting the motor to firewall.  W/S from the '81 280ZX is sitting in there resting. |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Nov 3, 2012 16:53:34 GMT -5
Amazing work. That rear window looks factory. Very well done.
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Post by skip20 on Nov 4, 2012 15:31:43 GMT -5
Had to remount the wiper motor as it was backwards & would hit the slave master, after finding a picture of it on You-Tube. Will need to hook it up some how to weld it to the linkage assy. to make sure it will stop in the right place.  |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 4, 2012 16:28:04 GMT -5
Here a problem that showed up when I put the W/S in. When I glassed the inside, looks like some force was on it & push the top frame down. now have about a 1/2" gap along the top edge. W/S  |
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Post by trimagnum on Nov 5, 2012 0:49:05 GMT -5
You are looking for a 1/4 gap or so? I thin shim against the ws then filling the gap with shreaded mat could close it then remove the shim . Since Poly resin doesn't stick to glass you should he safe .
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Post by skip20 on Nov 5, 2012 16:13:45 GMT -5
You are looking for a 1/4 gap or so? I thin shim against the ws then filling the gap with shreaded mat could close it then remove the shim . Since Poly resin doesn't stick to glass you should he safe . What I mean, is the W/S is above the roof line. The mounting lip needs to be moved back up to it. Something I did when the body was turn over & finishing the glassing inside whacked it out of alinement.  |
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Post by trimagnum on Nov 5, 2012 16:28:51 GMT -5
I feel like a goofball for not catching that  That happened with the roof on a TVR I had but in that case it was just a weak roof. One of the tricks they used was a support rod from the dash to the roof . The rearview mirror was mounted to the rod .  The rod could be used to push the roof back up to match the ws. That is a random web pic of an MG as an example. |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 5, 2012 17:50:17 GMT -5
Went to junk yard today & got a pair of wiper arms w/lousy blades. Also the washer nozzles & air vent cover. Could find what I had in the mess. Wipers look good sitting there & mounted (look close) the spray nozzles also. The cover is not mounted, need a little work around it.  You will also see a 2x4 jacking up the front of the roof. Good idea on the metal bracing up the post & across the front. Man I have seen a TVR in about 20 years, they were nice. |
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Post by trimagnum on Nov 5, 2012 19:56:24 GMT -5
Here is a pic of the TVR it was a nice little car.  |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 7, 2012 19:24:30 GMT -5
Great looking TVR  Been working on the upper W/S frame to get it to fit. So far so good, got it within 3/8". Sliced & jack up with more glassing this evening. Going under the knife on Friday, so will be on light duty for 2 weeks again. No working on the cars!  |
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Post by trimagnum on Nov 8, 2012 0:03:45 GMT -5
You'll be back at it before you know it . Hang tough and do what the Dr says young man!
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Post by skip20 on Nov 8, 2012 8:47:43 GMT -5
OK, it's now within 1/16" which body bondo will fill in ok. Looking down from the top  Side view.  Guess that it for a time off due to light duty. Good time to start working on building the Solar Panels. Alot of soldering to do.  And to work on my new web site: skip20corner.com/Home_Page.html  |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 8, 2012 16:29:05 GMT -5
With the W/S sitting in the frame w/ 3/8" spacer under it & 1/8" clearance on the bottom, slipped in 1/8" tile board against the edge of the W/S. This will now give me 1/8" clearance around the W/S. Laid Bondo pushing it into any space & built it up so will be able to shape it to the W/S. Here it is with the board edge removed & you will be able to see the built up edge.  Filled it to shape & will let it sit till off light duty. Should be good & hard by then & a pain in the butt to sand.  Good thing this is a Junk Yard W/S & not the $200.00 one. ;D |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 8, 2012 22:10:37 GMT -5
To late, already sanded it, looking pretty good.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Nov 9, 2012 6:50:09 GMT -5
Are you securing the glass with urethane or the old butyl tape? Dont forget you need to account for the thickness under the glass if you do. I used black silicone on my rear 1/4 windows. Works well.
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Post by skip20 on Nov 9, 2012 8:04:46 GMT -5
Plan on using urethane with the rubber around the W/S.
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Post by skip20 on Nov 9, 2012 17:12:38 GMT -5
Went to the glass shop & pickup 13' of rubber molding for the W/S $35.00. Used the 1/2" wide but they came in 1/4" up to 1". Clean all 3 edges with a razor blade, them wrapped it down with Alcohol. The molding has a sticky glue inside the lip to stick it to the W/S edge. It's very time consuming in putting it on. The old W/S are thicker then the new ones. I just kept rolling it on, the only hard part is going around the corner, the outer lip want to roll under, but easily pulls back up when done. Photobucket won't go to my albums right now, will put picture in later. Here it is a little more then half installed.  Here she is laying in the frame, a little more work in the upper corners but looking good. The 1/8" gap I make work out will.  This looks smoother & cleaner then the old rubber type sealer. |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Nov 10, 2012 0:22:35 GMT -5
1
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Post by trimagnum on Nov 10, 2012 6:07:21 GMT -5
It's looking sharp!
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Post by skip20 on Nov 10, 2012 15:32:01 GMT -5
Thank you for the comments. OK, started something I've been trying not to do. Started to build the air box under the dash. Guess I'm at that point in the game, gotta do it. Taped a tile board shelf sloping towards the front for drainage. Laid on 2 layers of mat. Will think about it some more as it cures.  To be continued!  Won't be using the Subaru A/C-Heater unit, but the A/C-Heater unit I got out of the back of a Chevy van |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Nov 10, 2012 17:58:36 GMT -5
Hate to say it but I told you so. Not even 2 days. Keep up the good work but work smart. You don't want to screw yourself up. Looking better.
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Post by skip20 on Nov 10, 2012 18:30:32 GMT -5
Hate to say it but I told you so. Not even 2 days. Keep up the good work but work smart. You don't want to screw yourself up. Looking better. After getting up at 5:30 AM & getting to the Dr. office AT 7:00, I sat there for 30 mins. after signing in ON TIME. It's a bunch of sh** the way they treat people today. I got up & went home. It's been 6 hours & not even a phone call! If I worked my business like that I would not even be in business. All they had to do was talk to me & let me know what's going on. Figured 5 -10 mins. would go in to get started & my wife & dog (out in the cold truck) could go home. By the way, I was the ONLY one in there. |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 11, 2012 11:11:22 GMT -5
Stage II of air box, working on the left side checking for clearance with the pedals & other things.  |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 11, 2012 16:31:43 GMT -5
Stage III, The air box tray is finished. Takes a long time when you have to do it in stages. Here I have undercoated the inside.  Even remember to drill the drain holes.  And here is the panel for the back of it. It's 3 layer of 1.5oz mat all rolled out on the white tile board & curing.  This will be cut to fit & undercoated before glassing it in place. That should finished the air box, then more to come. You have to go be A, B, C's so you don't' have to back track & cut it out later. |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 11, 2012 20:32:06 GMT -5
Stage IV OK, a little hard to write about but will try. The flat panel I made above was pulled off still a little ticky & bendable. Very messing & gooey. Remember this was 3 not 2 lay ups making it more stiff. Cutting a straight edge & angled the side, was able to get it inline with the old dash lip & cramped it with vise grips. Then using a drop light in the vent holes was able to trim the bottom of it. Then sprayed the undercoating on the inside of it & remounted it. Again using blocks of wood & cramps pushed it to the bottom edge to hold it in shape. Hopefully when it completely cures, will help to keep it in place. Then using resin putty, fill in the gap at the top & will glass that in, in the AM & then to bottom area. That should close the air box in completely. A lot of work just for an air box.!!!!   |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 12, 2012 7:51:53 GMT -5
Stage V Happy camper here, my little fiberglass trick WORKED!!!! Took off all the cramps this morning & the panel stay perfect. So did trimming & double check the pedal assy. You will notice a small notch had to be cut out to clear the tubing.   Whats next the AC unit? |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 12, 2012 17:20:23 GMT -5
Not much today, lassyyy. Remount wiper assy. & pedals, masters. Cut the hole in the firewall to install the AC/Heater unit. Inside view  Outside Firewall  There will be a cover over the outside later. |
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Post by skip20 on Nov 15, 2012 12:58:43 GMT -5
OK, back to working on the AC/Heater unit. Made a alum strap with form rubber to wrap under & mounted on the air box. Mounted the hoses & seal the unit to the body.   Need to build a cover for the upper right side to seal the pluming in. One more strap & it should be done. |
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That happened with the roof on a TVR I had but in that case it was just a weak roof. One of the tricks they used was a support rod from the dash to the roof . The rearview mirror was mounted to the rod .
