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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 24, 2012 15:36:38 GMT -5
The frame has the braided mesh type ground cable. It, too, is heavily painted. The Bradley also has a common ground at the front of the car associated with the steering gearbox. I need to check that connection, too. I traced out the wiring for the ignition and managed to start the engine with the ignition key switch. I was excited! Now, to get it to run well. I had to hold a rag over the inlet to keep it running. When I opened the throttle, it died immediately. The timing seems to be ok. I never owned or worked on one of these things, so I am on a very steep learning curve! The only gauge that seems to be working is the oil pressure. The voltage regulator isn't installed or hooked up, yet. I was disappointed to see that the fuel gauge was not working. The back lights work, but the brake lights don't. I didn't try the turning signals. I'll see what I can do tonight after I get off work. Every little bit helps. Thanks for the feedback, cocacoladodge!
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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 21, 2012 11:59:01 GMT -5
The starter appears to have been new (30+ years ago) and is in really good shape. The main problem that I found was the battery cable had been painted along with the frame and motor. I cleaned the paint off all the connections, including the grounding surfaces, while I had the starter out. I bench-tested the starter motor and found that it was "dragging" a little bit, so I took it apart and lubricated all the working parts and cleaned up the brushes. The end result: the starter is working great! I turned over the engine for a short period using the starter. That should have blown out most of the oil that I had put in the cylinders. Next, I'm planning to figure out & trouble shoot the ignition wiring.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 20, 2012 16:44:54 GMT -5
I set a new battery in the Bradley last night and started to trouble shoot the electrical wiring. I'm not getting voltage to the key and instrument gauges. I tried bypassing the switch (start position) and applied 12V directly to the starter solenoid and didn't get a response. Tonight, I'm going to pull the starter and check it out. (I found out that it is a lot easer to get to the starter by jacking up the car and removing the wheel.)
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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 19, 2012 12:39:00 GMT -5
I attached a pdf copy of the installation instructions for the gas tank. The V-shaped bracket is a small piece of angle iron bent in the middle. I tried to take a picture of my gas tank last night, but it was too dark in my garage. Attachments:
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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 18, 2012 11:29:50 GMT -5
I have the original instruction manual, which as a diagram of the brackets. If I recall correctly, there is a couple brackets (angle iron) that angle across the opening in front of the engine. I will make a note to bring the manual to work tomorrow and scan a copy for you.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 13, 2012 11:44:25 GMT -5
I have been following this post with some interest to see what the solution might be. I don't have mine running, yet, so I wanted to know how you solved the problem just in case I experience similar symptoms. I'm glad you got it running better.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 11, 2012 8:08:50 GMT -5
I got to work on the engine last night. I pulled the plugs and squirted some Marvel's Mystery Oil in each cylinder. After a while, I rotated the engine by hand making sure that I was turning it in the correct direction. I had to look up the firing order (1-4-3-2) and pulled the distributor cap to make sure it was going the correct direction. My brother was helping me, so we took turns. While he was working the ratchet wrench, I washed the body and applied a coat of wax. She looks a LOT better! I noticed a number of wires that are not connected so I will have to figure out where they are supposed to be hooked up. I will also need to buy a battery for the car. Yep, more parts!
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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 10, 2012 10:40:56 GMT -5
I'm in the SW part of Houston, called Sugar Land. I managed to pick up the car and assorted parts from the previous owner this weekend. I took some pictures and I will post them later. The tow bar I used was for a VW Bug and was too short to extend out in front of the Bradley. I had to take out all the bolts that attached the body to the frame, disconnect the steering column and headlight linkage to lift the body up enough to clear the tow bar. To hold it up enough, I wedged some mattress foam between the frame & body and then tied the headlight bracket (shaft) to the front axle. The two hour drive from northwest side of Houston down the the Southwest was successful. I did find out that this is on a 1972 VW (1600cc) and has the dual port heads. I also figured out that it is the 111 model and I found the grease fittings on the front axle. Now that I have it at my house, I am eager to get started on the motor. Parts store, here I come!
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Post by TexasIceMan on Sept 4, 2012 16:38:50 GMT -5
I was wondering how hard it would be to remove the gas tank? Does that require the Bradley body to removed or at least lifted up?
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Post by TexasIceMan on Aug 16, 2012 12:44:33 GMT -5
Thank you for the information. I don't remember whether it is single or dual port heads. I will take some pictures soon and post those. The best that I can tell, the kit appears to be about 70% complete. It still needs some work on the interior, including the seats. My plan is to get it running and then make it pretty. (I read that earlier.)
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Post by TexasIceMan on Aug 14, 2012 16:29:21 GMT -5
I recently purchased my first Bradley GT. I remember as a teenager wanting to build one of these things. Some thirty five years later, I now have the opportunity to finish building one. The previous owner started working on it with a very good plan. He had the engine completely overhauled by a reputable mechanic. It is my understanding that the engine was never run or not very much since then. I am being told that was all done over thirty years ago. It appears to be in good shape, but I’m sure there are a number of parts that will need to be replaced, such as belts & hoses. My question for the forum is: What would be the best approach for bringing a rebuilt engine that has been setting up for decades back to life?1. Add Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder (let soak 24 hours).2. Clean / flush gas tank. 3. Replace fuel filter. 4. Hand turn the engine. 5. Rebuild carburetor. 5a. Adjust Accelerator Pump volume 5b. Pre-Adjust Automatic Choke 5c. Pre-Adjust Air Bypass Adjustment to 4 turns out 5d. Pre-Adjust Mixture Adjustment to 2 ½ to 3 turns out 5e. Adjust Idle Control Screw6. Clean / rebuild starter motor. 7. Crank engine without ignition system (plugs & coil).8. Mount Voltage Regulator in engine compartment. 9. Connect all loose wires: 9a. Ignition coil 9b. Distributor 9c. Bypass air cut-off valve 9d. Automatic Choke 9e. Voltage Regulator 9f. Generator 9g. Backup Light Switch 10. Add fuel to system. 11. Install battery. 12. Replace Oil & Filter. 13. Start engine / adjust carburetor: 13a. Automatic Choke 13b. Air Bypass Adjustment 13c. Mixture Adjustment 13d. Idle Control Screw 14. Adjust Idle Speed to 900 rpm. 15. Adjust High Idle Speed in until speed drop 20 – 30 rpms. 16. Re-Adjust Idle Speed to 900 rpm. Attachments:
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