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Post by TexasIceMan on Apr 30, 2013 17:41:46 GMT -5
She's looking good, Skip! I find myself logging on every day to see what progress you have made. You have spoiled us. We could hardly wait for you to finish the name badges. Keep up the good work.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Apr 30, 2013 17:34:26 GMT -5
Dan, thanks for answering that question. I still find it interesting that the cam timing would make that much difference.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Apr 17, 2013 10:52:18 GMT -5
How are you going to maintain throttle position during left turns?
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 26, 2013 8:30:38 GMT -5
Ok, I'll bite. How does the engine produce more power when it is running backwards? The displacement is the same. It must be in the fuel system? Perhaps timing?
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 13, 2013 19:01:39 GMT -5
Down here in Texas, we have a foreign country that borders next to us called Louisiana. The following is from there:
A gas station owner in Louisiana was trying to increase his sales. So he put up a sign that read, "Free Sex with Fill-Up."
Soon a local Cajun pulled in, filled his tank and asked for his free sex.
The owner told him to pick a number from 1 to 10. If he guessed correctly he would get his free sex.
The Cajun guessed 8, and the proprietor said, "You were close. The number was 7. Sorry. No sex this time."
A week later, the same Cajun, along with his cousin, Boudreaux, pulled in for another fill-up. Again he asked for his free sex.
The proprietor again gave him the same story, and asked him to guess the correct number.
The Cajun guessed 2 this time.
The proprietor said, "Sorry, it was 3. You were close, but no free sex this time."
As they were driving away, the Cajun said to his cousin, "I think that game is rigged, and he doesn't really give away free sex." Boudreaux replied, "No it ain't, Thibodeaux. It ain't rigged. My wife won twice last week!"
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 6, 2013 7:23:52 GMT -5
Plus, that bright yellow will help you determine when it get dirty and needs to be cleaned.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 22, 2013 17:45:29 GMT -5
Mine has: Bradley GT Custom Car Kit (unassembled) Model No.: GT 1 Serial No.: 71371.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 20, 2013 18:36:19 GMT -5
...and: "They should not be used by pregnant women".
[It is too hard to get them out of the bucket seats!]
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 8, 2013 14:06:48 GMT -5
If I drank beer for 5 hours, it would probably take me 9.6 hours to do a brake job.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 8, 2013 14:06:31 GMT -5
If I drank beer for 5 hours, it would probably take me 9.6 hours to do a brake job.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 4, 2013 20:19:01 GMT -5
I don't think that I have ever seen an ignition coil installed inside a Budweiser beer can. Too funny! Sharp looking little car. Have fun making is beautiful again.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 28, 2012 16:10:30 GMT -5
Here is Big Bob's website, which includes his restoration topics: mysite.verizon.net/bobthagard1/car/I'm not sure that I will ever finish my Bradley. But, that is the fun part about owning one; we can continuously improve and customize them.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 28, 2012 12:00:26 GMT -5
I really like the lift kit that you fabricated and illustrated. Because I am 6' 2" tall, I am considering lifting mine up at least one inch. I remember seeing it done by one of the other members. I think it was Big Bob.
What modifications did you make to the steering column?
Good job and good luck installing it. Thanks for sharing.
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Tag "?"
Dec 17, 2012 16:45:58 GMT -5
Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 17, 2012 16:45:58 GMT -5
Besides, skip20, you would be trying to carry it home on top of your camper shell, again. Too funny!
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 14, 2012 13:26:43 GMT -5
I am guessing that you will have a lot of questions as you do your restoration project. I just bought my first Bradley GT and having fun with it. One of the members has done a lot of work on his kit car, Bob Thagard "Big Bob". Here is his website: mysite.verizon.net/bobthagard1/car/He included pictures of his work on the floor pans that you might find useful. Good luck!
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 12, 2012 14:19:07 GMT -5
While I’m aware of the 6-year rule, I have also heard that 10 years is the lifespan of a set of tires. Tires degrade with time, use and exposure to sunlight & other elements. Still, I think that 6 years is a conservative estimate. Most manufacturers recommend replacing them before 10 years. One thing that you should check is the date when the tire was manufactured. There is an identification number on the tire sidewall that indicates the date. The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requires that Tire Identification Numbers be a combination of the letters DOT, followed by ten, eleven or twelve letters and/or numbers that identify the manufacturing location, tire size and manufacturer's code, along with the week and year the tire was manufactured. For tires made after 2000, the last four numbers represent the week and year that the tire was made. For example: DOT U2LL LMLR 5107 DOT U2LL LMLR 5107 Manufactured during the 51st week of the year DOT U2LL LMLR 51 07 Manufactured during 20 07The Tire Identification Number for tires produced prior to 2000 was based on the assumption that tires would not be in service for ten years. While they were required to provide the same information as today’s tires, the week and year the tire was produced was contained in the last three digits. The 2 digits used to identify the week a tire was manufactured immediately preceded a single digit used to identify the year. For example: DOT EJ8J DFM 408 DOT EJ8J DFM 408 Manufactured during the 40th week of the year DOT EJ8J DFM 40 8 Manufactured during the 8th year of the decade And finally, hold on to your sales receipt. Most tire manufacturer's warranties cover their tires for four years from the date of purchase or five years from the week the tires were manufactured. I hope this helps. Attachments:
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 11, 2012 11:20:34 GMT -5
There are a few other things that I remembered. The fuel line will need to be disconnected. Also, the heated air tubing will need to be disconnected from the exhaust system. Throttle cable and any other cables to the carburetor. Also, the battery cable to the starter (mine is routed through the body to get to the starter motor.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 11, 2012 8:28:21 GMT -5
Besides the bolts holding the body to the frame along each side, you have a few other things that must also be removed or disconnected. The front bumpers could have an 1-1/2" pipe held to the frame with U-bolts. The steering column needs to be disconnected. Mine has a bolt in the center of the back seat. Check the brake fluid tank; it may be attached to the body. Oh, and don't forget about all the wiring that is connected to the engine.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Nov 8, 2012 16:28:16 GMT -5
I like the idea that centralvalleygter had for developing a "To Do" List, so I summarize my thoughts and added it to this thread. I'll go back later and mark through those items that I have completed.
If any of you guys see anything that I am doing wrong or you have suggestion on what needs to be done, please let me know. Thanks.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Nov 8, 2012 12:05:38 GMT -5
Here is what I found when I was trying to get the contact information for Sun Ray Products Corp:
Sun Ray Products Corp 8017 Ranchers Rd NE Minneapolis, MN 55432
Doors: $250 each side Short Rear Window: $280 Long Rear Window: $330 [Does not include S&H.]
I found two phone numbers:
763-780-0774 612-780-0774
[You can't always rely on the internet for accurate information.]
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 29, 2012 17:02:45 GMT -5
I FINALLY carved off a few hours to put the kit in the carburator! My girl friend went to visit some of her grand kids, so I took advantage of the opportunity. The breakfast table work great! The only problem was getting the smell out of the house. She notice when you first walked in the door. Women!
I do have a problem with the carburator, though. When I took it apart, there is a spring missing. It is the one associated with the choke that presses up against the diaphragm. Now, I will have to figure out where I can find one because a replacement doesn't come with the kit.
Any suggestions?
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 9, 2012 12:48:53 GMT -5
I found a syringe while shopping at my favorite Electronic Parts Outlet store here in Houston. It should hold 20 ml. I'm thinking ten pumps of the throttle should get me between 14 & 16 ml. Now, I need to get a small piece of clear tubing.
Home Depot, here I come....
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 8, 2012 21:40:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the information about the starter and the bushing in the transmission housing. I didn't realize this was the case until I re-assembled the starter and checked for alignment. To bench test the starter, I improvised and inserted a temporary bushing to hold the drive end centered. I didn't run it very long, just to test the functionality. This is all new to me. I learned on Chevrolets and GM products and their starters are different.
I did a little research on the accelerator pump and I am reading that the volume of gas per stroke should be adjusted to 1.4 to 1.6 ml. I haven't found anything in my garage calibrated for me to measure 10 to 20 ml of fuel. Where it is adjusted now is close because there isn't any hesitation. I just don't want to have it too rich and flood the cylinders with excessive fuel.
Back to the store....
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 8, 2012 11:06:54 GMT -5
Good point about getting the 12V from the coil. I can see how someone might hook it to the "distributor side" of the coil. I found a picture that I took of the engine shortly after I brought the car to my house. It is a little out of date because I have all the loose wires seen in the photo connected up now. I thought that some of you guys might want to see one more engine. Attachments:
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 8, 2012 10:44:03 GMT -5
Oh, I get it now. I was thinking that the reverse switch provided the ground in the circuit. I keep forgetting the Volkswagon provides the ground at the device; in this case at the backup lights. Thanks for the help.
I'm just about finished with the wiring in the engine compartment. Before I tape the wires into a harness, I want to run a pair of wires from the reverse switch to the rear of the car. Then I can secure the harness in it permanent location.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 7, 2012 13:55:01 GMT -5
I need your help: the 1973 VW has a couple of wires originating from the transmission. I am thinking that one of them is for the reverse (backup) switch. How can I tell which one is for the reverse switch and what is the other wire for? HELP!
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 5, 2012 22:03:14 GMT -5
I think that I attached a picture of the accelerator pump after I took it apart. It is a serious case of "varnish". Attachments:
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 4, 2012 23:21:41 GMT -5
I got it running!!! After I got off work today, I raced home to work on the Bradley. My first task was to pull the carburetor and check it out with the thing being the accelerator pump. Sure enough, after removing the four screws, a thick "varnish" substance ran out. Here comes the Chemtool Cleaner! After hours of cleaning and adjusting, I put the carburetor back together. Next, "Gentleman, Start your engines". It started!!!!
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 3, 2012 16:28:42 GMT -5
I stopped by Auto Zone last night on the why home from work and they actually had a carburetor kit in stock. Too cool! I raced home to dive into the rebuild only to discover that my girl friend had other plans for me. Bummer! I wonder if she will mind having me rebuild it on the breakfast table? The smell of gas and carburetor cleaner in the kitchen shouldn't hurt anything. Right?
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Post by TexasIceMan on Oct 2, 2012 11:49:17 GMT -5
I finally took some time to log onto a computer. As you may remember, I have been trying to get the motor running again (after setting in a garage for 30+ years). I got it started, but when I tried to give it some throttle, it dies. I looked at all the vacuum connections and they appear to be ok. Once I get it running better, I will try the Starter Fluid trick.
While working on the carburetor, a loose wire (12V) hit the generator pulley and I was doing a little "welding" back there. It was the wire that was intended to be connected to the Voltage Regulator. I decided to stop working on the carburetor and finish the installation of the Voltage Regulator. I wasn't sure where it was supposed to be installed and I didn't like where the wire was positioned in the wiring harness (directly above the license plate light). I mounted the regulator to the right (passenger side) inside the engine compartment just in front of the tail lights. At least I can see it and reach it. I routed the ground, DF and D+ wires forward and around to the generator. I left enough slack for the suspension movement.
I worked on the carburetor a little more last night and I think it may be the Accelerator Pump. With rapid throttle movement, I don't hear any gas spray.
Next, I am going to follow an earlier suggestion and put a kit in the carburetor.
Back to the parts store....
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