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Post by TexasIceMan on Apr 11, 2014 7:10:08 GMT -5
Horen2tas,
That just goes to show that, when we work on these things, we put a little bit of ourselves into them. I guess that you could say that they represent a reflection of who we are as a person.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Apr 3, 2014 10:26:31 GMT -5
Jeffery,
You might want to prep the edges of the fiberglass. It can be very sharp and pose a danger.
When my kids were young, I built a sand box in the back yard. It resulted in the neighborhood big kitty litter box for all the cats and dogs.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 27, 2014 19:01:44 GMT -5
Skip20,
Surely it has stopped raining by now!!!?? Quit playing with that 3D printer and send us some more pictures.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 27, 2014 18:59:33 GMT -5
camlifter,
The kit that Roodog mentioned is about $190 plus $60 extra because it is oversized. With the S&H it will be close to $300, too.
Tim
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 27, 2014 18:53:29 GMT -5
gitrdun,
If they shipped them UPS or Fedex, you might be able to track the order. You might need a tracking number though. Keep trying to contact them. There are a lot of people on this site who are hoping for the best. We may need one,too!
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 27, 2014 18:49:21 GMT -5
Jeffrey,
I'm surprised that someone didn't respond to your request. I have the original seat covers and have been thinking about removing them and taking them apart. Then, I will use the pieces as a pattern to make a new set. I have a Tandy Leather store here in Houston and they sell automobile leather upholstery. I bet someone has them and just hasn't checked the site lately. Keep checking back.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 19, 2014 11:47:35 GMT -5
When I first saw hern2tas post of the Boy Scout I thought it didn't apply to this thread. When I read it, I thought that was TOO FUNNY!!!
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 14, 2014 16:36:32 GMT -5
My Goldwing has that luggage rack mounted the other way around. But, I think it looks better the way you have it.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 13, 2014 18:20:43 GMT -5
Now, we are back to "what do we do with the existing holes". Knowing you, they will be patched with fiberglass and painted.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Mar 13, 2014 18:13:39 GMT -5
Running with the head temperature at 400*F is too high. I would think in the range of 325 - 340*F would be more "normal". You might want to type in "engine temperature" in the Search box [top right corner] and read some of the other threads that are on this site. I remember reading about someone have a similar problem.
Also, you might want to test your temperature sensor to make sure it is giving you good data. Water boils at 212*F (at sea level). If you have a Candy thermometer or Wax Candle thermometer you can measure higher temperatures.
Good luck & keep us posted.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 27, 2014 16:11:53 GMT -5
Because he said "It needs all new batteries." this might be a GTE? I hope he posts pictures.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 5, 2014 18:15:51 GMT -5
Chad,
Thanks for sharing that! Now, I can visualize what the different parts will look like. I am planning to lift mine some to add some head room for me. I was leaning towards the Trex, since I have a lot of experience in woodworking. The part that I was dreading was taking the body off the frame. This looks like I might be able to just lift it up enough to slide the pieces into place and bolt it together.
I wonder what the cylindrical pieces are for?
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 29, 2014 16:53:01 GMT -5
I live near Houston, Texas and that is about 46 miles south of Cleveland (Texas) hehehe
From Houston, Texas to Cleveland, Ohio is only 1,300 miles.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 24, 2014 18:42:07 GMT -5
This is for all you guys who are up north in all that cold weather. Warm Thoughts
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 24, 2014 15:50:32 GMT -5
The topic of a fadded finish came up last year around October in a thread call "School Project" (Page 1). MPM offered the following:
[MPM] "Here is a product to restore your gel coat & it will bring back the shine. I have used the Vertaglas put not the replacement kit check it out before sanding or buffing."
He gave us a hyperlink to a website called marinestore.com, but their server appears to be down right now because the link can't be found.
Skip suggested lightly sanding and buffing the finish.
If I recall correctly, Dan McMillan contributed some advise, too. He has been quiet here lately...he must be hiding in his igloo. hehehe
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 24, 2014 11:57:43 GMT -5
I've been searching the web for some "How To" information and found some interesting information. One guy used a torch, but caused it to flare up which resulted in tiny air bubbles. One guy took a hair drier heating element and staightened it out and mounted it on a board covered with foil. He used blocks to hold the plexi up over the hot coil. He kept flipping it over to warm both sides. Then, he bent it and secured it in the window opening to hold the right angle. Another guy baked it in his oven at 450 degrees for 10 minutes. He was making a small windshield for a remote control airplane. To get it to curve, he mounted it in a wooden frame and after baking it, he set it over a wooden box and blew air into the box with a shop vac. It domed up like a baloon. It looked good. There is a business down in Freeport, Texas called Specialty Glass & Plastic, Inc. that has been known to make unique plexi type items for cars and boats. Here is their website: Specialty Glass & Plastic, Inc.TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 23, 2014 18:15:34 GMT -5
Dan McGee, You will have to show us how you make this "box" complete with pictures. I'm guessing that it will be inside an oven and heated? If so, what temperature would need to be obtained? You've got my curiosity up. Time for me to do some research....
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 22, 2014 18:36:57 GMT -5
Chad,
I didn't think to add your web page earlier. I'm glad that you did. You illustrated a lot of really good ideas for those of us who are still building one of these things. Thanks,
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 22, 2014 18:32:56 GMT -5
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 22, 2014 18:27:55 GMT -5
Well, the guy does go by the handle "crazyjay". I learned after I divorced my wife that you can't fix "crazy"!
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 22, 2014 16:06:08 GMT -5
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 20, 2014 12:10:51 GMT -5
Welcome to the "Bradley Family". There is a TON of information and pictures available on this site, just type in the "Search" box the topic. Here is another website that I reviewed to get some ideas in the past: mysite.verizon.net/bobthagard1/car/pandrop.htmlWhen you take the body off the frame, you might consider lifting it up an inch or two. I've seen everything from square metal tubing to outdoor porch decking material. Keep sending pictures of your build and don't be afraid to ask questions. Good luck. TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 10, 2014 15:51:34 GMT -5
I don't remember where I saw it, but one guy and his wife took the body off. After everything was disconnected, he place four saw horse, one by each wheel. Then, he lifted the rear end of the body while his wife placed a long 2x4 across the saw horses. They did the same thing for the front. Last, they rolled the chassis out from under the body.
If you have a garage, you can do the same thing...just hoist it up.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 10, 2014 13:06:46 GMT -5
Your right about them all being different. That is a big part of the "fun" in owning/building/modifying a Bradley...you make it what you want it to be.
The list above is a good starting list. You will need to get a drop light and just start looking. When you go to lift the body off the frame go slow and feel for resistance.
Also, you might consider labeling the wiring when you take it loose. I use a permanent marker and masking tape. I also make myself notes for those special installations and I put any mounting hardware in ziplock bags. Taking before removal pictures helps, too. I also make a list of all the stuff I take apart and use it as a checklist when putting it back together.
I you run across some wiring that is difficult to take apart, you might consider adding a wire connecter.
TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 9, 2014 12:52:50 GMT -5
The steering column is connected to the "worm gear" near the front of the car. The column is connected with two bolts. The connection or joint looks like a round disk with the column connected to it. There is a picture of it on Bob's website: mysite.verizon.net/bobthagard1/car/pandrop.htmlIf I remember correctly, I had to jack up the car and take the left front tire off to get to it. TIM
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jan 8, 2014 19:31:53 GMT -5
Finger, Type in the word "supports" in the search box. There should be a thread subject "Lift Suports" where Dan M gave some good technical information on the topic. There have been many others who have contributed to the topic over the past few years.
Good luck.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 24, 2013 8:47:28 GMT -5
Skip, You will have to limit the amount of weight that you store in your storage compartments. Otherwise, you will have even more trouble keeping the front wheel on the ground. I like the idea of adding storage. That is one thing the Bradley didn't offer much of.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 19, 2013 13:18:17 GMT -5
winger32, Click on #3 and scroll down to view the pictures and comments.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 6, 2013 17:22:00 GMT -5
jspbtown, can you share with us a few pictures of what it looks like and how it is to be installed? Is that like roofing material that comes in sheets? How pliable is it?
I am thinking about lifting my body, too. I am 6'-2" tall and need a little more head room.
Thanks.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Dec 6, 2013 8:46:08 GMT -5
Bob Thagard did a 1 inch body lift on his Bradley. He included pictures of what he did. mysite.verizon.net/bobthagard1/car/lift.htmlThere are numerous others who have done somethin similar. I seem to recall that Skip did one as well, but I haven't found his pictures yet.
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