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Post by jspbtown on Oct 19, 2020 8:39:17 GMT -5
Fuel pump to the left of the alternator stand.
I would disconnect the fuel line at the carb and crank the engine to see if you have fuel coming out.
And a new fuel filter would not be a bad idea. Given that its a Bradley you might have one between the carb and pump AND/OR one between the tank and the pump
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 10, 2020 17:02:18 GMT -5
3m Super weatherstrip adhesive. I like the yellow stuff but the black stuff is fine as well.
Yes...clean it carefully. Good off, WD40 work. Clean it with alcohol to make sure there is no debris and follow the instructions on the tube
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 1, 2020 8:11:56 GMT -5
Ok.....several things to look for or ask...
1. Where are the doors? 2. Get under it and inspect for rust and rust repairs 3. Check the windshield...they don't really make them anymore and if its cracked you will have a hard time finding a replacement 4. Get under the dash...check the wiring. If it looks terrible then ask yourself if you are capable of rewiring it. 5. Can you register it in your state with no title? 6. Check the tires/brakes/steering/shifting 7. Check the engine for smoke, noises, oil leaks. 8. Check if the headlights operate correctly. The original design SUCKS and it takes some mechanical skills to correct them. 9. What is your mechanical ability? These need lots of work, often significant fabrication, and constant attention 10. You don;t plan on this as a daily driver do you?
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 22, 2020 7:36:57 GMT -5
Well kinda like I said in my prior post. $6,000 for a nice Bradley with a stock engine is really top, top, top dollar. Plus with the economy, the job market, and national uncertainty people are not really parting with money for toys.....especially expensive ones.
Also....the site (while fabulous) really just is for the hard core Bradley enthusiast which is a shrinking population.
Have you tried other sites like Facebook Marketplace, CraigsList, The Samba and EBAY? You might get a broader population and find someone who doesn't really know what a Bradley is and what they really go for.
Just my thoughts...
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 18, 2020 7:42:23 GMT -5
Well you have a nice car but you are at the very top of what a perfect Bradley would go for. Add in the economy and millions out of work and the uncertainty of current affairs and its tough to sell an expensive toy which is priced on the very high end of its value.
Have you tried CraigsList or Ebay? They get far more views than this site does.
Again....its a nice car..but its a Bradley GTII at the end of the day.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 10, 2020 20:41:54 GMT -5
I like a small amount of Elring Dirko grey personally.
Any type of cork gaskets should be fine. Make sure they are perfectly seated...that is usually the problem when it leaks.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 10, 2020 18:31:26 GMT -5
Lots of reasons why they might be leaking. Weak bales, bent valve covers, no use of sealant.
Clearly sealant is not supposed to be used but some aircraft sealant often works. I have also used a thin application of grey silicone.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 9, 2020 16:19:24 GMT -5
You will likely be able ti use it if you remove the carb carefully. If you tear it it will have to be replaced.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 9, 2020 8:50:06 GMT -5
Be sure to check if you can get the pulley off before you order. You might need one of them as well.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 8, 2020 19:05:02 GMT -5
If you changed to a Bosch style you take the fat red wire and attach it to the lug on the alternator (similar to where it is now). There is also a tab on the Bosch alternator that needs to be attached to one lead of a 12 volt lamp. The other lead from the lamp goes to a keyed power source. I really can't tell what that might be on what you have. Generally the alternator warning light is located on the dash. Do you have one on the dash? It really doesn't have to be but its purpose is two fold: 1. To excite the alternator windings to get the alternator charging 2. To let you know if the alternator is not charging. Now you can hide the light in the engine bay but it kinda defeats purpose #2. As I have said before...these cars are home built. Generally they are wired poorly. Based on what you have shown in pics I can't tell anything other than it was done poorly. It might work...but it is still done poorly. If you swap it out its a simple two wire job. And you can get rid of the regulator and any associate wirings. Here is a good thread with pictures: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=665473
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 8, 2020 18:13:25 GMT -5
You have a Motorola alternator with external regulator. Not really the best thing you can have. The never internally regulated (Bosch style) alternators are much better. You might have a bad alternator or a bad regulator. Your best best is a multi meter and test the voltage coming out of the alternator and test it coming out of the regulator. You should be 13.5-14.5 volts (ish) coming out of the regulator. The alternator readings should spike well above that as you increase the rpms.
You also need a charging light.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 7, 2020 9:20:00 GMT -5
The first page of this very long post hs some pics of what I did. You essentially cut a shifter section out and then an equal size chunk behind them and swap them. Then you do the same for the ebrake mount. Cut loose the ebrake and vent line tubes back at the tranny mounts so when you slide the ebrake section back the tubes just slide out of the rear forks and you can cut them to length. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=295854&highlight=avenger
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 3, 2020 18:45:33 GMT -5
Excellent....the best solutions are always the easiest solutions
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 3, 2020 11:26:30 GMT -5
Be sure to make note of the plate, its direction, and any instructions you get with the shifter
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 3, 2020 10:33:47 GMT -5
The battery will tell you what system you have...put your multi meter on it.
If you have a 12 volt generator than they sell kits to swap out to an alternator. You need a new stand and a new backing plate for the fan shroud.
IF you have power at one wire (key on) and no brake lights when you jump the wires its a wiring issue or burnt out bulbs. The switches are just pressure switches. They make contact when they have brake line pressure and then lose contact when the pressure is released. Its an amazingly simple system, but they are subject to failing.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 3, 2020 9:00:15 GMT -5
Well one of the wires at the switch should have keyed power to it. Did you try a test light to see if you had power there? Have you checked fuses?
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 3, 2020 7:21:23 GMT -5
Are the two lower brake light filaments burnt out?
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 2, 2020 17:28:14 GMT -5
OK...so I assume you have the stock Bradley tail light set up? Generally speaking the top (or sometimes the bottom) two are the turn signals and the parking lights. The bottom two are generally the brake lights and parking lights.
So when you have your headlights on all 4 lams should be on dimly. When you put the brakes on the bottom two should come on bright. When you put your flashers on the top two should flash brightly.
Can you be a little more specif as to what each lamp is doing and when?
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 2, 2020 8:12:51 GMT -5
Depending on what master cylinder you have you will either have 1 or 2 brake light switches. The factory set up uses two switches which incorporates a brake warning light. If your Bradley doesn't have that light then you can just use 1 switch and have the other one attached, but use it as a "spare" since these often fail.
The switch is simply a pressure switch. Power comes in one contact and when the brake it depressed the switch allows the power to pass through to the other contact. So...and this is of course dependent on how your individual car was wired....you should have 1 wire coming in, maybe some wires going from switch to switch, and then 1 wire leaving. If that the case (and you have jumped the wires to make sure its not a wiring issue) then you can take the the wire coming in and the wire coming out and just hook them up to one switch.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 1, 2020 20:21:06 GMT -5
Yup...the brake light switch(s) at the master cylinder.
They might be unplugged or they might be broken.
Take the wires off...jump them together...if you get brake lights you have a bad switch (or two). If the brake lights don't work when you jump the wires you have bad wiring and who knows where that might be on an old, home built car
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 30, 2020 15:38:38 GMT -5
I believe Jeff Try still sells his CD. From what I am told it is the Bible of the GT
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 27, 2020 8:01:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the clarification Jeff. I knew I would guess wrong..
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 27, 2020 8:00:18 GMT -5
Are you sure they are still available from Empi? They are the VDO thingypit gauges with yellow numbers. I do not think they are available anywhere new. EDIT: the board replaces the term that sounds like "rock" but begins with a "c" and not an "r" with "thingy"..... I was not being smug. So they are "R"ockpit style but replace the "R" with a "C"
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 22, 2020 9:15:52 GMT -5
Best of luck to you. My best advice is to think a lot and then spend only after that.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 21, 2020 12:31:16 GMT -5
You will have to be ore than just a "little" creative. And 500hp would not be manageable with a 50+ year old chassis or drum brakes, or stock steering
Try building it stock...that way when it sits in your shop and you pass it onto the next guy because you lose interest you won't be out of a lot of money. Nothing worse than investing $10k into a car thats never gonna be worth more than $5k on its best day
If you can finish it in stock form then you can always upgrade it
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 21, 2020 8:10:06 GMT -5
I believe its a convertible one but others will surely chime in.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 20, 2020 18:35:06 GMT -5
"any aftermarket companies that make doors or interiors for these"
No....sorry.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 20, 2020 8:07:58 GMT -5
Nobody makes a wiring harness specifically for the Bradley. There are many universal kits out there that will work as long as you run the grounds that need to be run. The number of circuits will depend on what your plans are.
If you are someone who is not experienced in wiring I suggest you contact Rebel wiring. They have several kits available and great customer service that can help walk you through your decision.
And again...if you are a rookie at this (and its not hard...it just needs focus and a basic understanding) then you are far better off spending $200 for a good harness than you are spending $50 for a crappy one and j=having your Bradley sit and rot away.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 10, 2020 8:32:53 GMT -5
Ethanol fuels just ruin rubber lines. Your car will likely run fine on regular gas. If you notice some pre-ignition you can increase the octane level.
Cars designed to run on regular gas will not run as well on premium fuel. Its just a waste of money. But like I said...if you have some pre-ignition issues then premium might help.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 8, 2020 8:46:13 GMT -5
And don't expect the kind of mileage you see in today's modern fuel injected / computer controlled cars. You are talking about 50+ year old technology that is rarely tuned correctly for highest mileage. Most people add things (carbs, exhaust, ignition, etc) that are designed to improve performance...not gas mileage.
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