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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 6, 2009 13:02:40 GMT -5
Hi, Alabama,
Original Twoie side windows are not the hardest Bradley item to find. There are many unbuilt kits bering parted out. Try a post under the CLASSIFIEDS section: NEED GTII SIDE WINDOWS. You might have some pretty good luck.
Ray Tierney at SunRay is now making - or soon will make - replacement GTII moon roof panels with the correct curve. His contact information is in another thread under SunRay Has PlexiGlas.
He's a good guy. Use the phone, although he is not always able to answer if he's working in the shop. If he doesn't grab the line, leave a message and he will call you back when he can.
Warmest regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 5, 2009 18:18:53 GMT -5
Hi, Big,
If you speak with him, please tell him I sent my best - a hello from a Ukie flier!
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 5, 2009 14:32:36 GMT -5
Hi, Bob,
The first custom nerfs I ever saw for the Twoie were crafted by Steve Striharsky. Steve had the metallic blue Twoie with the "can't possibly work but it does" yellow interior.
He did all kinds of interesting metal work around the car, including the nerfs and a pair of very impressive tail light treatments. Steve also made the grooved ball (to match my shift ball) on my GT's Sundowner headlight release handle.
Great guy, but haven't spoken with him in awhile.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 5, 2009 9:55:40 GMT -5
Hi, Alabama,
No help from me, but that's a really nice looking Twoie.
Best of luck with it!
Warmest regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 3, 2009 21:50:48 GMT -5
Hi, Steve,
Time is almost always flexible. I'll most likely have lunches and dinners scheduled with distributor and manufacturer friends, but all a magazine editor really needs to do at these things is walk around and schmooze, photo the latest releases and yak.
Call the Park Pilot cell if you're around on Friday or Saturday, or up till noon or so on Sunday: 717-917-1272
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 1, 2009 21:21:32 GMT -5
I've been told by several members that the 1776 is a nice balance between power and longevity. I've done 625K miles on the same engine I started with in 1976, with one rebuilt at 340K, and that makes a pretty good argument for mild modification and not driving like an idiot. The 340K rebuild in 1994 was upped to a 1641, and I plan to replace the engine with a 1776 at the next body-off overhaul when the MG is finished and on the road.
I've already had the new, low-mileage case cleaned, align-bored and machined for the 90.5 cylinders, and purchased a balanced SCAT crankshaft. I intend to put all new parts inside the case, and add a pair of re-manufactured heads. Outside, I'll use the other exterior parts from my current 1641 engine for the top end. These would include the AC compressor, Pertronix electronic ignition (Ignitor, plug wires and coil), 1-1/2-quart sump, HD oil pump, Gene Berg dual quiet pack exhaust (Jet-Hot MCC) heat exchangers (Jet-Hot MCC), real German tins and dual Kadron carburetor system.
The Bradley is very light, and I find the power from the 1641 to be more than adequate for my no-pressure driving style. My engine choice for my Fiberfab MG-TD Replica is also the 1641, but moving up to a 1776 in the GT should be fun. The Bradley is still just a boardwalk ride with a license plate, but using a Freeway Flyer transmission really helps the top end. My car does 65 MPH on the Turnpike at 3,000 RPM, and 75 at 3,500. I don't really want to drive a toy any faster than that; the GT is not the car to take to an accident -- and that's from personal experience.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 1, 2009 16:40:40 GMT -5
Hey, Chris,
Good to "hear" from you again.
If you're still stateside, I'll be in Ontario CA from January 8th to the 10th for the AMA Expo 2010 (model airplane show). We could kill a few burgers.
Cell: 717-917-3670
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 26, 2009 12:44:07 GMT -5
Hi, Skip,
I spoke with Kyle a couple of days on another topic, but we did yak about the old site for a minute.
Kyle said that the old site is pretty much trashed, and that the gentleman who built it -- Gary something, I think -- can no longer be found.
The reason that very little activity is here is most likely that only a relative few of the old site's member know about this new temporary site. Kyle directed several members to the new site through e-mails, but could not access all the addresses from the old site to inform everyone.
Maybe Kyle will tap in with better information if and when he sees this.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 25, 2009 11:16:18 GMT -5
Hey, Everyone,
There's a lot of very creativity on these pages.
Great looking stuff. Thanks for the peeks.
Warmest,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 24, 2009 21:13:50 GMT -5
Hi, Mikey,
Kyle is going to work on getting a link to the CD information -- with a PayPal link -- on the site. Until then, you can send a PayPal for $35 to jefftroy@aol.com or send a check for $35 to Jeff Troy, 759 New Holland Ave., Lancaster PA 17602 (Cell: 717-917-3670 if you have questions).
Be sure to include your mailing address, and a line that says whether you need the GT or GTII CD.
My GTII CD is not as over the top as my GT CD because I never built my GTII kit. I built my GT in 1976 (original owner builder), and have so far done five complete body-off restorations over the 33 years and 625 thousand miles I've driven it. Only logical that I have more information about the GT.
In addition to a lot of fun and interesting Bradley Automotive information and literature, the GTII CD has jpg images of the complete assembly manual and integrated wiring manual, as well as all the manual updates that Bradley published.
Good luck with your car, and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 24, 2009 0:49:16 GMT -5
Hi, Mikey,
I have no experience at all with the GTE, but I do know that the standard GTII uses a converter box under the dash to get the dual functionality of turn signals and brake lights from the GTII's single-bulb lighting fixtures. Similar boxes are used for trailers with one-bulb tail lights.
As long as the box isn't some integral part of the EP system, I'd bet that your converter box is handling the lighting duties.
Good luck with the car, and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 24, 2009 0:26:13 GMT -5
Hi, John and Teresa,
I just found this thread at the very bottom of the page.
I know that both your CD's were sent some time ago, so I'm figuring that you've had them for awhile.
I do travel often, so there is sometimes a delay of up to a week before I can get home to send these things out. I hope you didn't have to wait too long.
Please let me know if you have not received your disk:
E: jefftroy@aol.com C: 717-917-3670
Thanks and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 23, 2009 21:02:07 GMT -5
ALWAYS in the back of my mind Bri. You never know. Thanks!
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 23, 2009 20:57:13 GMT -5
Not far at all. I'm in Lancaster (Lackluster), but lived in Ambler for 10 years or so before coming out here. Born and raised in Manhattan, and spent almost 30 years traveling all over playing rock n roll. Did a lot of work in Jersey -- for MRC in Edison, and for a hobby industry trade magazine based in Morganville (near Frehold)> Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 23, 2009 16:13:44 GMT -5
Hi, Guys, I have a trio of goodies for you. Here's my 1976 GT. I'm the original owner and builder, and over the past 33 years, the car has been disassembled and rebuilt -- body off -- five times, not counting the original build. I'm still on the same engine at approximately 625,000 miles. I gave the engine one complete rebuild at 340K and it's still running great. This car is air conditioned, the heat works and it's a daily driver. Yes! I have all the Plexiglas gulls and short Sundowner window. I keep the gulls in custom-made bags that match my tuck & roll interior, and I also have two complete sets of brand-new and uncut spare gulls and rears in my garage. This five-color-changing paint job, done in 2000 with the flame work added in 2002, is Royal Plum DuPont ChromaLusion. My 1952 MG-TD was produced by Fiberfab, but Bradley Automotive actually sold a few of these cars before going belly up. My MG is being built from a new-in-box kit, with a brand-new, never-saw-the-road chassis and a re-manufactured transmission. I finished the 1641 engine and all the chassis modifications this summer, and will get back on the car when warmer weather and more time come back to Eastern Pennsylvania. The chassis, transmission and engine case are all finished with various POR-15 products, and every last fastener is sanded and polished, high-quality stainless steel. The exhaust system and heat exchangers are (the real) Jet-Hot Metallic Ceramic. The MG is pictured here with my restored 1960 Homelite Spitfire vintage kart, powered by a pair of restored Homelite KL-100 engines (it's said that only 30 of these engines are left in the world), and my F-14 TAMEcat EP, an original-design RC aircraft, kitted in China by The World Models and available in the USA through my good friends at Airborne Models in California. Visit airborne-models.com/html/productdetails.asp?ProductID=119 for a look at the 39-inch EP (electric-power) version, and airborne-models.com/html/productdetails.asp?ProductID=130 for the original, 40-size, 69-inch glow-power trainer version. I also thought you might enjoy a peek at what may be the only Bradley GT to actually carry a trailer. Randal Sordelet, one of the world's finest fabricators, crafted this setup for me, and it's ideal for dragging one of my eight vintage karts to the local track near Allentown -- about an hour away. Maybe I should have bought that Bradley Surfer GT boat when I had the chance! The Bradley and trailer setup are shown at the 2007 Carlisle Kit & Import Show, carrying my vintage 1960 Go Kart 800 with a restored McCulloch MC-6 engine. The entire hitch assembly is fabricated from stainless steel, and the trailer is based on a lightly polished, 4-inch-square aluminum T-frame. Thanks for looking, and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 23, 2009 16:03:30 GMT -5
Hi, Sam,
Your mileage should be similar to a comparably powered Bug. The GT is approximately 400-600 pounds lighter than a Beetle, and the GT is approximately 200-300 pounds heavier than the GT.
You're looking at a slightly lower although relatively similar weight to a stock Bug, so I don't think you'll be too far off the mark.
My GT gets an average of 20 mpg between street and highway, although most of my driving is highway. My car has air-conditioning, a mild 1641 with dual Kadron carburetors, fly-cut heads, a full stereo system (exotic by 1994 standards and crap by today's), and plenty of extra add-ons that bring the weight up and the mileage down.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 20, 2009 21:23:30 GMT -5
You're welcome.
That Bonus Section 10 has printable images of the complete and Assembly Manual and all the updates, as well as the Wiring Manual and all the updates.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 19, 2009 16:41:21 GMT -5
Hi, Papa,
The information for the CD is on the old site, which is suffering from an attack. Rather than have you risk it, here's the table of contents. Most owners have found the CD to be very helpful.
Bradley GT Information for Owners on CD-ROM Section 00: Text files Section 01: 1976 Original Configuration - Metallic Brown Section 02: 1980 First Rebuild - Cream, Copper and Brown Section 03: 1985 Second Rebuild - White, Blue, Pink and Purple Section 04: 1993-1995 Complete Restoration Section 05: 1995 Shows Section 06: 1996 The Wreck Section 07: 1997-2000 Re-Body Donor Preparation Section 08: 2000-2002 Re-Body Section 09: Post-2002 Car Shows Section 10: Bonus Section - Bradley GT Manuals and Literature Section 11: On The Road Restoration Parts Section 12: Restoration Parts, Literature and Instructions Section 13: Sun Ray Products - Bradley GT Kits and Parts Section 14: Reference Materials Section 15: VW Part Source Catalog Section 16: Work In Progress Files (additional files to be edited for all sections)
The PayPal link is on the old site with the description, so here are two ways to get it.
1. Send a PayPal for $35 to jefftroy@aol.com
2. Send a $35 check or money order to Jeff Troy, 759 New Holland Ave. Lancaster PA 17602
There is a CD for the GTII as well, also $35, although that one has none of the driving and maintenance information. That couldn't be compiled because I never assembled my kit.
Call if you have any questions: 717-917-3670
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 17, 2009 15:07:20 GMT -5
Hi, Gary,
The worst problem with the gulls is warping. After awhile -- and it doesn't take long -- the forward corner of the gulls warp outward ahead of the clip and the rear corners warp outward behind the clip. Even the center will eventually begin to pull away from the sill between the clips.
Same deal happens on the upper section, where the warping occurs ahead of and behind the two hinges. Constant pressure on the forward corner from the door prop when the window is raised compounds the problem in that area.
Each of these seemingly minor issues becomes very pronounced if you drive your car in winter. Cold air enters the car where the gull warps away from the rubber seal, and the result is too much for the heating system to overcome -- and heat in a Bradley is no bargain to begin with.
I've started to design an attractive-as-possible set of polished stainless runners for the upper and lower edges of the gulls. Each lower section would run from corner to corner, and raise to include the window clips. Each upper section would run from leading edge to trailing edge, and extend in the forward corner to include the door prop mount.
Mounted outside of the gulls, these trim plates -- once I find the correct gauge -- will most likely prevent any areas of the Plexiglas from warping outward, and I doubt that a sandwich would be necessary.
I have a few rough drawings somewhere, but I should really take the time to prepare a couple of templates and send them to my fabricator buddy so he can make the parts. That will probably happen with restoration number 6.
Body-off restoration 6 is soon to come, probably the day after I have the MG-TD on the road.
My original engine is probably a little tired after 600,000-plus miles, although it's still running strong. Number 6 will have a new 1776 engine (thanks for the advice and guidance Gary H. & Don M.), glassing the T-top to the body, new gulls and Sundowner, swap the polished aluminum instrument panel for stainless, and an overall cleanup of every part on the chassis, interior and body. I'll also probably lose the Jet-Hot on the wheels, hinges and bumpers, and have everything triple-chromed for more "pop."
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 17, 2009 14:51:14 GMT -5
Hi, Dave,
Not much help for you since I can't remember the exact setup at the moment. Here's the start, anyway.
The wheels are 14-inch Indy mags from the '70's, and the tires are Dayton. I'll try to get the numbers for you if I hit the garage later. I don't use spacers or adapters, but this setup gets the wheels and tires in a good position for the GT -- no taking out the forward fender wells, and wide and tall enough so the car doesn't suffer from "Winnebago syndrome."
Please accept my compliments for your car, which appears to be a very clean and fine example of a stock GT.
Good luck with it, and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 17, 2009 14:44:21 GMT -5
Hi, skip,
Nice work, ace. Love this stuff.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 16, 2009 21:06:01 GMT -5
Hi, Gary,
Always nice to hear from you, my friend. How are the pedal-Ponies coming along?
I tried most everything to eliminate the stress cracking over the years, and the best, although not a positive cure, is as you suggest: drill the holes slightly larger than the screws, then use a plastic-compatible, rubber sealer in the hole to prevent leaks.
If you have a few Plexiglas scraps around, try the propane torch thing on the edges. See if you can get them smooth enough to gloss the edge without letting the material get hot enough to bubble. I couldn't get it right, although I only tried once or twice before baling.
Too much pressure on your spring clips (or hold-down straps if you use my system) will eventually cause hairline cracking around the fittings. Not enough pressure causes rattles and air leaks. A happy balance is almost impossible to achieve.
I try to tell people to stock up on gulls and rears when they are available, but unless an owner drives his or her car regularly, they could never understand just how perishable these Plexiglas parts really are.
Be well, Gary.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 16, 2009 20:58:56 GMT -5
HI, JD,
Used to play a joint up in Wilkes-Barre a time or two, but that was back in the '70's and I can't remember the name. People were nice enough, but definitely not my kind of town.
Tap to Gary (previous post) about his hinging system. Maybe it will work for the fastback, and he might have an idea of how to secure the rear. Securing the Sundowner (short window) is different that the fastback because you don't have to screw anything down on the deck.
If you come up with something tried and true -- like after it's been on your car for awhile -- let the board know. More than just a few people like the fastback, and making it removable would be helpful to them.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 16, 2009 14:58:09 GMT -5
Hi, Skip & JD,
Not positive, but I think that Gary Hammond is the GT owner with the hinged fastback window. If so, he's very knowledgeable and is always willing to share his creations. Best thing is that if a creation comes from Gary, it works, and you can trust it.
Hinging the window is the only intelligent and practical way I've seen for using the fastback, but I'm curious about what is used to hold the tail down. I wouldn't trust weight alone, especially at speed.
Hey, JD... Where are you in PA: isn't the whole state backwoods? I'm in Lancaster (I call it lackluster), and that's about as backwoods as I can take it.
The problem I have with being born and raised on Manhattan's East Side is that it makes every town -- including Chicago, Philadelphia and LA -- feel like a backwoods town by comparison. The worst part is that I could never afford to go back to the city, even if I wanted to -- and I positively don't. I can't even imagine what it would cost to maintain two kit cars, two normal vehicles, eight race karts, two trailers and more than 50 RC airplanes in New York.
Lackluster suits me just fine.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 15, 2009 22:16:48 GMT -5
Hi, JD,
Anything with a Bradley is all about personal preference, but I can give you plenty of solid reasons for losing the fastback rear window just as fast as you can. Aside from looking totally greaser (to me, of course), here is my condensed version:
1. anything that finds its way under the rear of the fastback window will be stuck there forever
2. can't store anything in the rear of the car that cannot pass between the seats -- or over the seats if you chop the headrests
3. impossible to clean the inside of the lower section of the fastback window -- or the rear deck -- because you can't reach either without a specifically designed tool
4. more difficult to relocate the gas tank filler to the rear deck (the only proven mod for the GT fueling problem) if you have to go through the fastback window
5. if you are a traveler, compare the practical advantages of carrying suitcases or other baggage (guitars, amps?) on a luggage rack and the rear jump seat (actually a package shelf) against the impracticality of the fastback, which negates the shelf and any possibility of installing an optional rack
6. yes, you can hinge the fastback and even make it removable, but it's heavier than the convertible window and harder to store -- and still really ugly. Of course, guys who still wear that Billy Ray Cyrus mullet might think it's pretty slick. Rock on, Joe Dirt!
Do the Sundowner, dude. Once you have it, you'll never regret it -- but don't forget to add one extra clip along the top edge at the center of the window to prevent suction from bowing the window, popping the side clips and pulling the short window off the car.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 12, 2009 12:46:21 GMT -5
Hi, JD,
Brian and Smyrnaguy hit it perfectly: the cost is lower because the Half-Gulls can be made from the scraps of other projects. The tough part is the bend, and the Half-Gulls have the bend already done for you. I'm sure Ray could charge more, but he's doing it right and passing the savings on to his customers.
As for what to do with them, that's your call. When I said "experimenters," that's what I meant. Every owner will have/want to come up with his or her own way of mating the Half-Gulls to whatever he or she chooses to use on the lower end.
Half-Gulls, just like the full gulls, will require trimming all around every edge to fit each car. The only exception would be the lower edge of the Half-Gull, which is a clean, straight cut from front to rear. If the cut is in a good place for a particular owner, no cutting or trimming would be required along that edge.
Cutting and trimming Plexiglas is time-consuming, and you must be VERY careful. You POSITIVELY must trim the bottom edge first, or you'll end up with a gull that is too narrow to fit the front and and rear T-top pillars. You'll understand what I mean if you picture a triangle with one point aiming straight up. Now think of your triangle being held over an imaginary triangular opening of the same size, then pull the triangle downward. The two sides are now narrower than the opening, which is exactly what will happen if you trim the top and sides before trimming the bottom. -- and scratch one brand-new $250 gull wing!
I use a handheld jigsaw with a fine-tooth, metal-cutting blade to rough cut approximately 3/4-inch from the edge. Trimming is done in several 1/4-inch steps -- fitting the gull, then marking and cutting each 1/4-inch increment as I go.
Be aware that heat from the blade will cause the cut to close behind the blade as you move the tool forward, so be prepared to back up and re-cut all in two- or three-inch intervals all along the way. Avoid using too much forward pressure on the jigsaw, since that can cause internal chipping in the material. Work deliberately, slowly and -- ALWAYS -- carefully.
I take down and trim the edges to their final fit with a handheld belt sander, and finish the edges with hand sanding from 100-grit paper down to 320 wet-or-dry, all used on a no-give, aluminum sanding block. I also sand a slight radius into both sides of the finished edge to make the Plexiglas more comfortable to grasp and to prevent chipping.
I have tried the torch trick to put a gloss on the edges, but that has never worked well for me. I should probably try again with a few scraps, since the heating of the edge is supposed to prevent cracks from developing from the tiny imperfections in a sanded edge.
Plan on at least one full day to fit and cut two gulls, and most likely two or three days if you've never done it.
Good luck with the car.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 11, 2009 18:44:03 GMT -5
No one has images because these parts have never been available before now.
Like I wrote, just picture standard gull wing with the side portion cut off approximately 6 inches below the bend. Doesn't take much imagination. It's just a gull without the lower section.
You can hinge the end to the T-top like the standard gull, but since the lower portion with the clips is not present, you'll have to invent some means of keeping the curved side against the top when you drive. Ray suggested hook & loop (Velcro-type) material.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 10, 2009 17:42:59 GMT -5
Thanks, Brian,
I pasted your link into my message, just in case anyone else missed it.
That "lengthy and friendly" comment is no joke. Ray and I spoke for almost two hours today!
Warmest regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 10, 2009 13:19:25 GMT -5
Hi, Group, Two very important items for GT and GTII owners: 1: Ray Tierney is delivering as promised. 2: Two new products are being offered. They are moon roof panels for the GTII, and "Half-Gulls" for the GT. Regarding delivery -- I ordered a GT Sundowner rear window about two weeks ago, just after Ray told me that he was gearing up for production. My new Sundowner arrived this morning as promised, 100 percent safe and sound. Delivery is not a myth: it's a fact. Regarding new items: the new moon roof panels for the GTII are direct replacements for the originals, and Ray is in the final stages of production for these parts now. The new Half-Gulls are the perfect item for the club's adventurous GT owners. A Half-Gull is the upper portion of the driver or passenger door. It runs from the edge along the center of the T-top, completely around the radius in the door to a point approximately 8 inches below the centerline of the radius. Picture cutting off the flat, side portion of a standard door about 6 inches below the bend: that's a Half-Gull. Experimenters will love the Half-Gull. 1. Make your own lower sections from Plexiglas stock available locally, and develop your own hinge system, tape system or lock system to join the upper and lower sections. 2. Drive with only the Half-Gulls mounted to get all the fresh air you need without air conditioning. 3. Store the upper and lower sections in the rear of the car (hinged or separated) or on the passenger seat without removing the rear window or taking up too much space. 4. Make the GT doors easier to handle and store. 5. Combine tinted Half-Gulls and clear lower sections for a different look and improved sun shielding over the one-piece, all-clear parts. ...and a million other ideas that each of you will (of course) develop. Please see my previous "Sunray Has Plexiglas" post for background information, contact information and pricing. The new Half-Gulls are a great deal at only $100 each. bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=176Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 1, 2009 14:07:49 GMT -5
Sun Ray has windows right now. See the separate post.
GT windshield is 1963 - 1967 Corvette coupe. Convertible windshield does not fit as well in the upper corners. If your glass company says they're the same, thank him and be sure he orders the coupe version anyway - or be prepared to have the convertible windshield returned.
Wiper arms are generic AMCO, and most everyone uses lengths of the arms and blades that suit what they want. I use an 11-inch blade on the standard arm. Most owners choose to go larger.
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