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Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 20, 2023 8:34:09 GMT -5
Cool. I have manuals available on CD ($35) or thumb drive & CD ($45): jefftroy@aol.com Good luck with the car.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 20, 2023 8:26:38 GMT -5
Wiper motor is any standard Type 1 Volkswagen. Ideal choice is two-speed with auto park (blades lower) when motor is switched off: Hi, Low, Off 9park).
There are no Bricklin parts in any Bradley car.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 27, 2021 2:38:19 GMT -5
Hi Kenneth,
I don't know what confusion you're referring to. Coming on the Bradley website this evening and reading your note is the first I've been aware of you. I have received nothing from you on PayPal, and positively have not received a request from you for a CD through PayPal or my email.
If you had sent payment. I would have been notified. I just checked my PayPal account (Nov 27, 2:27 am) and there is nothing there - now or ever - from kenneth yeager or carhaulerken.
Please check your information. My PayPal and email address are the same: jefftroy@aol.com
GTII CD id $35 post paid, and unless I am traveling, my CDs are shipped on the next business day after payment is received.
Thanks and regards, Jeff
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Post by Jeff Troy on Sept 1, 2021 21:08:16 GMT -5
Hi, Superdave, My disks are CDs, not DVDs. If you're looking for a DVD, you're not looking for me.
My Cd is $35 PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com . Postage is free. Be sure to specify GT or GTII. CDs are very different.
Best regards, Jeff
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 29, 2021 22:16:06 GMT -5
Site members should all take a look at this. Plenty of good ideas and practical modifications. Nice work Bob.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 8, 2021 14:49:07 GMT -5
Hi guys, My car just ate Speedo number four. Anyone have a new or used working VDO unit for the original GT,not the Twoie? Thanks 717-917-3670. If no answer please leave message.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 27, 2021 23:17:08 GMT -5
I have a pair of custom-upholstered aftermarket fiberglass bucket seats that I recently removed from my GT. Send me your email or cell and I will send pics. Seats are medium gray tuck & roll velour with gray Naugahyde trim. Passenger side is excellent, driver is very good. Upholstery attaches with snap buttons and studs. Seat backs are carpeted gray. Headrest portions were designed out to allow easier access to the jump seat (package shelf). Email to jefftroy@aol.com or call 717-917-3670. My phone won't put through calls from unrecognized numbers, so please leave a message if you choose to call. I will get back to you ASAP.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Oct 23, 2020 21:30:55 GMT -5
Hi,
I don't know for sure how your car was titled, but to help you properly compile the personal history of your Bradley, please be aware that Bradley did not introduce the GTII until mid-1976.
I'm guessing that your Twoie was built on a '70 Bug chassis, and that's how the car was registered. It would have been impossible to have a GTII in 1970.
Nice car just the same. Best of luck with it.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 29, 2020 12:29:36 GMT -5
No problem. All of the outstanding and priceless information you post more than outweighs one well-intended "guess."
I'm sure you've helped most of us at least once, maybe more, including me.
Thanks and regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 29, 2020 12:24:37 GMT -5
I could use one or two blower switches if you still have any. These are the switches with a white engraving that looks a bit like a propeller.
Thanks much.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 26, 2020 23:48:07 GMT -5
1963-67 Corvette Coupe. not convertible. Convert''s upper corners don't lay as closely to the Bradley windshield frame as the coupe.
I just got one from Auto Classics in Minneapolis. $150+$85 shipping. GREAT packaging. Quick shipping.
Just checked my history. Price has gone up. Now $169+$95 shipping. Still an unbeatable deal.
Company is on eBay: autocity1958 Windshield Glass 1963 - 1967 Chevy Corvette Coupe & Convertible Green Shade Band
Good luck with your car.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 10, 2020 23:09:24 GMT -5
Hi, Gary,
No. It's a generic, one-piece lamp from one of the auto houses of the day, maybe 1979 0r '80 during one of the early restorations. Bulb is not replaceable; it's a bulb, case, and terminals all as a single component.
They may have been around, but I had never seen an LED piece back then.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 9, 2020 13:21:26 GMT -5
Hi, Jeff and Gary,
Thank you both again.
Jeff, your explanation of WHY the ground wire from the bulb goes to a hot terminal was significant.
Turns out that yesterday's rewire was correct. I tried it again today, this time revving to roughly 2200 and the light went out.
Just to sure, I shut it down, waited a moment, and turned the key to on; light on. Started the engine; light on. Revved up; light out. Perfect!
Two more cycles confirmed. All good.
THANK YOU BOTH, my friends.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 8, 2020 22:01:14 GMT -5
Thanks, guys,
During the recent rebuild, I rigged a second exciter in the engine compartment (perhaps as a courtesy to some unknown VW mechanic?). I disconnected this today (Saturday) and retraced the remaining wires.
The hot wire from the remaining dash-mounted bulb goes to fuse 2B on the main block: that circuit is hot only when when the key is on. The negative wire from the bulb goes to the small + (D+) on the alternator. The light comes on when the key is on accessory and when the starter engages. Unfortunately, after the engine started, the light remained on.
I let the engine idle for a few moments to see if the bulb would go out, and I revved the engine a bit to give it a reason. Still, the light remained on.
I tried this only once, and may not have revved as high as 2000, so maybe it will work correctly when I try again tomorrow (Sunday).
If it doesn't work, the problem could be in the alternator. I'll let you know as soon as I know.
THANK YOU BOTH AGAIN for your help. This is a really silly thing to be plagued by after 44 years and hundreds of thousands of miles on this car. It's almost embarrassing. I know every piece of my Bradley inside and out. It's crazy that something so basic that has always worked has now become so troublesome.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 8, 2020 21:29:50 GMT -5
I used 94 (when it was still readily available at the Sunoco pumps) because of the higher compression in my 1641 with the fly-cut heads. The convenience and savings of regular 87 is one of the reasons I built my 1776 with stock heads.
However, I must be stuck in the brain somewhere because the first and so far only fill-up of the new engine was at a Sunoco station - with 93.
I'm not a mechanic and certainly not a chemist. I wish I could advise you, but I don't know jack about fuels. I listen to people who know more than I do, and from others' comments, I've learned that oil can be even more of an important factor than mileage.
Change the oil every 3,000 miles, and always try to let your engine idle for 1-2 minutes to circulate the oil before you get rolling. Adding a 1-quart oil sump is a good engine modification to make sure that cylinder #3 stays wet.
I built my Bradley because I'm an RC airplane modeler, and the idea of an "AMT 3-in-1 model car kit" with a Volkswagen engine -- that I could actually climb into and drive around the block -- was just too ridiculous to pass up. Build your car, get it on the road and drive. After the first two miles, you won't give another thought to mileage. Just fill the tank whenever it needs it and enjoy the ride.
These cars were never meant for anything practical - and your date/wife/girlfriend/mom will never be impressed by a mileage quote.
Regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 8, 2020 8:38:31 GMT -5
Hi, Gary,
Thanks, bud. I'll check that.
Please email me (jefftroy@aol.com) with your mailing address.
Warmest regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 8, 2020 8:20:22 GMT -5
In short, either Bradley should increase mileage over a Beetle to some varying degree.
A Completed GT is roughly 800 pounds lighter than a standard Beetle, so you'd have to figure from there, depending upon the engine you choose, air conditioning, performance modifications, and anything else -- and don't forget to figure in your own weight! Because they are kit built, few of these cars are exactly alike.
My car weights about 1600 pounds. When it had the 1641 (dual carbs, fly-cut heads, air-co), it gave me roughly 20 mpg on Sunoco 94 octane. So far, I've only run out one tank on the new 1776 (stock heads, Scat cam, air-co) on 93 octane, but it appears to be getting a bit less than 20, maybe 18-19.
Twenty was considered good mileage back in the 1960s and '70s. Cars are different now, so don't expect a Bradley to meet current standards or expectations.
Bottom line, it's a Type 1 Beetle that, however you choose to set it up, will weigh anywhere between 300-800 fewer pounds. Plan on 20 and hope for the best.
Don't know the Twoie from personal experience, but I remember that it's approximately 300 pounds heavier than the GT - roughly 500 pounds lighter than a Beetle.
Best of luck...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 6, 2020 16:53:10 GMT -5
Hi, Friends,
I know that I'm often the one passing out the advice, but I am having a really strange problem that has me - and the local German VW air-cooled professional - completely baffled.
My GT has been on (and occasionally off) the road for more than 44 years. The charging system has always worked, but since the last rebuild I finished a week go, it doesn't seem to be doing it correctly.
Previously, I would start the engine and the warning light bulb (exciter) would light and then go out, as it should, telling me that the charging system is working properly. Now, the bulb is on whenever the car is running and does not go out, and I don't know if the charging system is working -- but I think it's probably not.
I have always used the generator warning light, and my personal notes show a RED (+) wire from my instrument-panel-mounted bulb to 4A on the main fuse block, and a BLUE (-) wire from the bulb to the alternator (I use the alternator with the internal voltage regulator).
Bulb is good. Wires are good, not frayed or damaged in any way. Alternator is good, and we also connected a new one just to be sure (same results). No blown fuses, All seems to be in order.
The Bradley GT Wiring Manual makes no reference to the warning light, so I looked at thesamba.com and saw that the warning light in a Beetle should be powered by the BLACK/YELLOW wire from the VW steering column. There is also something in the GTII manual about what MAY be the warning light, but it isn't clear. The GT manual shows the BLACK/YELLOW wire in a dotted line going to the Bradley harness's RED wire to fuse 1A, which is tied by a jumper to fuse 3A. The manual shows another dotted line connecting the RED Bradley harness wire to the GREEN harness wire going to +L on the amp gauge. As far as I know, that circuit is always hot, even when the car is at rest.
My car has the RED and GREEN Bradley harness wires connected, but I can't remember if the BLACK/YELLOW wire is also connected there. The engine starts and runs fine as always, but the charge light and possible charging issue truly have me puzzled.
If one of you VW wiring gurus uses the exciter bulb, would you please tell me how it should be hooked up? My panel mounted bulb does not ground at the base; it has a (+) pole (RED wire) and a (-) pole (BLUE wire). The BLUE ground is not an issue; it goes to the correct terminal on the alternator.
My questions, in the shorter form, are:
1. Where should the RED (+) wire from the bulb be connected,
2. Should the BLACK/YELLOW wire from the VW column be connected to the GREEN and RED Bradley harness wire as the GT wiring manual suggests with its dotted lines, and
3. If the exciter bulb is connected to an always hot circuit, it must be the voltage regulator that takes it out when the charging system kicks in, so why wouldn't my bulb now behave as it always has, instead of always remaining lit?
Bottom line... HOW IN THE F DO I HOOK THIS THING UP?
Thanks in advance, and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 2, 2020 8:53:31 GMT -5
Hi, Everyone, Once again, it's been quite a while since I've posted. Long story not so short, in 2013 after 320,000 miles on engine #2 (345,000 on #1 and its rebuild), the valve seats in the heads were so badly melted that the engine would only stay running when it was nearly floored. Flipped the body, trashed the engine case and internals, and began GT rebuild #6. By 2014 I had completed a new 1776 with a new case, jugs, heads, and internals, and most of my top-end parts: dual Kadron carburetors, oil sump, Pertronix Igniter electronic ignition and coil, Jet-Hot heat exchangers and Berg Dual Quiet Exhaust, newly painted genuine VW tins, air-co compressor, and plenty of polished Billet aluminum dress-ups. In March of 2015, the car was maybe a week or two from road-ready. The body and chassis updates were finished and rejoined, and the engine was bench-tested by local air-cooled expert Gene Ulrich. The T-top was still unmounted and I was working on a new stereo head unit, when I fell on the ice and broke my hip. I couldn't maneuver inside the 'pit for the next two years. I was back on the Chubby Checker tour for 2017 and '18, and then I had a bout with throat cancer last year. Scratch 2019. The cancer surgeries were entirely successful and I'm in good shape - and FINALLY able to work on the car after its being down for nearly seven years. Two days short of state inspection, I was reinstalling the windshield, pressed down on a corner and broke it. Another delay, and a week's wait for a new Corvette coupe windshield from AutoCity in Minnesota on eBay (GREAT outfit: $149 + $85 shipping), while I took care of a few minor details. The "Plastic Racer" was inspected on July 29th, and has been back on the road since then (like three days)! This thing is SO much fun to drive. After 645,000 miles, you'd think I would be sick of it, but I love it more every time I climb in. Total blast, and the new 1776 runs great with a little bit more pep than my 1641 #2. Me and the "Boardwalk Ride with a License Plate" in 2008 Thunder Valley Casino, Lincoln California, in 2017 on the Chubby Checker tour Thanks Gray Hammond for the image-attachment post, which I just used above. Now I'll just urge everyone who's been slow to finish their projects to get them done. The weather is great for GT drives with the lids off, so get your cars back on the road! All the best, my friends...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 6, 2019 19:30:53 GMT -5
Hi, Friends,
Here is the information you need for my GT and GTII CDs.
My Bradley GT and GTII CDs hold files of the complete, original assembly and wiring manuals, and any official updates. The GT CD also holds roughly 43 years and 645 thousand actual miles worth of useful information. Scroll down for the contents.
Ordering is easy. Just send $35 through PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com.
If you don't use PayPal, you can send $35 by check or money order to:
Jeff Troy 759 New Holland Ave. Lancaster PA 17602
Be sure to state whether you need the GT or the GTII CD. The cars – and the manuals -- are very different.
One of the many advantages of the CD over an original printed manual is that you can take the pages you need out to the shop and not have to worry about dogging them with oil, grease or other shop debris. If you ruin a page, you can just print another.
One of my CDs just may be the best money you can spend on your car. I'm sure that anyone who has one -- and most owners do -- will tell you that it's extremely helpful.
Bradley GT Information for Owners on CD-ROM Section 00: Text files Section 01: 1976 Original Configuration - Metallic Brown Section 02: 1980 First Rebuild - Cream, Copper and Brown Section 03: 1985 Second Rebuild - White, Blue, Pink and Purple Section 04: 1993-1995 Complete Restoration Section 05: 1995 Shows Section 06: 1996 The Wreck Section 07: 1997-2000 Re-Body Donor Preparation Section 08: 2000-2002 Re-Body Section 09: Post-2002 Car Shows Section 10: Bonus Section - Bradley GT Manuals and Literature Section 11: On The Road Section 12: Restoration Parts, Literature and Instructions Section 13: Sun Ray Products - Bradley GT Kits and Parts Section 14: Reference Materials Section 15: VW Part Source Catalogs Section 10: Work In Progress Files (additional files to be edited for all sections)
Bradley GTII Structural Plans & Updates on CD-ROM Section 01: GTII Structural Plans, Screen Section 02: GTII Structural Plans, Print Section 03: GTII Parts Inventory Section 04: VW Part Source Catalog Recommendations Section 05: Kit in California 2000 Section 06: Arrival in Lancaster PA 2000 Section 07: Assembling the GTII Full Kit – NEVER BUILT: EMPTY FOLDER Section 08: Bradley Automotive Catalogs & Literature Section 09: Reference Book Recommendations Section 10: Dropping the Pan
Thanks and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 6, 2019 19:27:24 GMT -5
Hi, Everyone,
I don't get on the board very often and when I do, I often forget to check the messages.
I finally did check the Messages folder and found requests for my manuals dating back to 2012. If any of these new Bradley car owners or anyone else is in need of a manual, please read on.
The best way to contact me is always by email: jefftroy@aol.com or by calling my cell: 717-917-3670. I don't usually answer unknown phone numbers, so please leave a message and I will get to you ASAP.
CDs are always ready to ship, and I will give you all of the details in the following post.
Thanks and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on May 23, 2019 21:27:40 GMT -5
Hi, Steven, I'm trying to remember... did I ever know that you were an RC guy or a bass player? I'd like to think that the memory thing hasn't hit me yet, but I really do feel like I lose a few bits every now and then. What's the old joke... "They said I have Alzheimer;s but I really can't remember!" I was never much for aerobatics. When I was competitive I flew sailplane and scale. Did Scale Masters and Top Gun in 1989 with a 1/3 two-place 1913 Bleriot XI-2, complete with castoring landing gear and functional wing warping (not exactly the thing for IMAC). Lockhart spent some time trying to get me into aerobatics, but I knew I'd never be good enough to enjoy it. Building has always been my strong point, and enough to get me into the Model Aviation HOF. I hope to have the Bradley back on the road in a few weeks. Not that much to do, but always busy with a million other things. Also trying to finish the Fiberfab '52 MGTD. When you have a few minutes, go to www.bandmix.com/jefftroy The track has my voice and my killer 1969 Dan Armstrong bass. Bought it new the day Dan introduced it. You can also see my thee walls of restored Sunn gear from the late 60s. Anyway, sounds like you're doing great. Keep it up. Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on May 7, 2019 13:06:11 GMT -5
Thamks, Leonard and Mike, Always nice to hear from you. Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on May 3, 2019 11:22:23 GMT -5
Hi, Buds,
I began my 6th (or maybe 7th) rebuild of my GT in 2014, when after 645,000 miles, the valve seats on the heads were so worn that I couldn't keep the engine running.
I pulled and flipped the body to clean up the few trouble spots that had popped up since the previous restoration in 2000, and also built a new bottom end for a 1776 street engine. I did, however, retain all the top end parts that were still in great shape.
I was less than a week away from driving the car again when I slipped on the ice behind my house and ended up with a shattered hip and subsequent replacement. I'm sure you know that crawling around inside a GT with an injury is completely impossible, so my car has sat unfinished since March of 2015.
Since then, the hip has healed nicely, but I've been busy with RC airplane commitments and running around on tour again with Chubby Checker for a couple of years. Right now, I'm playing bass with a local 12-piece swing band, which is kind of a stretch for a rock & roller, but still lots of fun and a good bunch of people with far less attitude issues.
With good weather returning to the Northeast, I started preparing to get back to work on the car, which is still only a week or so away from road-ready. I've attached a pic of the 1776 engine, already installed with all the accessories hooked up. All the car needs is a reinstall of the T-top and seats, along a new set of windshield/gull/rear window gaskets and a good cleanup after four years in the garage.
Good to be back, old buds, and I'll try to keep you posted as time allows.
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Post by Jeff Troy on May 3, 2019 10:58:13 GMT -5
Bradley GT Original Luggage Rack: $75.00
This is a rare find indeed — one of the original, optional luggage racks sold by Bradley Automotive for their GT cars. All the assembly and mounting parts are here, and it will come packed in the original factory carton.
The rack has never been assembled or mounted. It is 100% brand new. The box has been stored for a while and has some creases and staining, but there is no rust or any other damage of any kind to any of the chrome parts or any of the other parts.
The images show the rack’s individual parts in the assembled and disassembled configurations, and I’ve also placed them on the deck of my GT to show you how the rack would look when mounted on your own car.
$75 takes it, but the rack is now being offered through eBay and will no longer be available from this website. For questions or additional information, email to jefftroy@aol.com or call me at 717-917-3670.
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Post by Jeff Troy on May 3, 2019 10:23:10 GMT -5
This is a pair of custom tuck-and-roll front seats I had done for my GT about four years ago. These are brand new. They have never been installed, and are in excellent condition.
The buckets are Bradley Automotive originals for the GT (not the Twoie), and the headrests have been removed to allow easier access to the jump seat (more like a package shelf) in the rear of the interior. I had the upholstery done to match the custom interior in my GT, but the tops of the seats were mistakenly done in a different pattern that does not match. I’ve finally decided that my present seats are still in great shape and do not really need to be replaced, so this pair is now available.
The bottoms of the seats have never been drilled for the sliding tracks, and the upholstery work is first class. Snap buttons replace the drawstring arrangement used by Bradley, and there is additional padding in the forward section of the seat to help prevent fatigue from the lay-down position when making extended drives.
Upholstery is of the highest quality light gray tuck-and-roll velour with light gray Naugahyde side panels and welting. The backs and side panels of the buckets are covered in medium gray tight-pile carpeting.
I'm not on this board that often, but you can email to jefftroy@aol.com or call me at 717-917-3670.
GT owners are general not a spendy lot, but if you want a nice set of original custom buckets for your car, this is the right move. I don’t remember what I paid for the buckets, but I did pay $400 to have the upholstery work done. That’s the starting price, and shipping will be only the actual cost, with no extra charge for handling or packaging. If preferred, local pickup in Lancaster, Pennsylvania 17602, is available at no charge. These seats are now being offered through eBay and will no longer be available from this website. For questions or additional information, email to jefftroy@aol.com or call me at 717-917-3670
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Post by Jeff Troy on Oct 27, 2018 21:58:42 GMT -5
I did the Carlisle Kit & Import Show nearly every year from 1994 till 2014 or 15. It was always a lot of fun but Bradley participation became minimal.
The exception was in 2008, when the bradleygt.com online club had more than 20 Bradley cars on the field, all drivers and no hangar queens..
That year, we also built a GTII "assembled" kit from Thursday through Sunday, and drove the finished car around the fairgrounds on Sunday afternoon. That was impressive, but attendance fell sharply after that.
The last few years I went it was just my car and one or two others. It was me alone the last two times I went, and haven't been back since.
I lost interest in the show because there was no one there to yak about Bradley cars. I never went to shows for the shows. I went to meet the other owners I've spoken with online, share ideas and offer helpful suggestions. I do enough shows and special events with RC airplanes and my music.
I'd love to see Carlisle happen for us again, but I don't really think it's in the cards.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Oct 27, 2018 21:39:50 GMT -5
Hey Pete,
Great to hear from you again.
Hope you and yours are doing great.
All the best old friend.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Oct 23, 2018 7:09:01 GMT -5
Hi, Buds,
I've posted a couple of personal Bradley items that I no longer need on eBay.
Opening bids are reasonable, and the photos and descriptions are in the listings.
Search in eBay under:
Bradley GT Decorative License Plate – FREE SHIPPING! (Starting Bid: $16, Auction Ends Tuesday 10/30) Mimics the older blue PA plate with yellow characters.
Bradley GTII (GT2) Original Assembly Manual – FREE SHIPPING! (Starting Bid: $85, Auction Ends Saturday 10/27) This the big blue binder in its original shipping carton from Bradley Automotive.
See if these can help any of you.
Of course, if you need my GT or GTII CDs, they are always available direct from me - but not in these eBay listings.
Warmest regards, Jeff
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Post by Jeff Troy on Oct 18, 2018 9:23:59 GMT -5
Hey, Nero, Great looking GTII. One of the nicest we've seen. Treat it well. It deserves that.
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