|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 18, 2010 20:14:40 GMT -5
It's down to your choice of two: "this one, take it or leave it."
Hope you score.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 18, 2010 10:17:08 GMT -5
Hi, dd,
Hope that helps.
Best of luck with the quest. You're in the best place for scoring the hard-to-find parts.
Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 17, 2010 18:43:26 GMT -5
Hi, CV,
My chrome parts all went black in 1994, but I will probably have everything triple-show-chromed during my next full resto. I love the black look, but the ChromaLusion paint on my car is so visually loud that the parts kinda need the chrome to keep up.
Your GT is unique, and that's what this is all about.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 17, 2010 18:39:33 GMT -5
Sorry I can't help, but your responses from other members might bring better results if you stated whether you need bumpers for a GT or a GTII. Right now, the only person who knows what you need is you.
Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 5, 2010 14:29:29 GMT -5
Hi, Friends,
I wish the news could have been better but it isn't.
Steve suffered a stroke a few months back, and during his treatment the doctors discovered advanced cancer of the esophagus. He fought as long as he could, but this cancer cannot be cured. Steve passed away on Thursday evening, June 3rd.
Steve was a super guy, a brilliant machinist and a valued friend to many of us. If you knew him, you're going to miss him.
We tried to help him find a home for his car on the board, and a few of you responded with very generous offers. His wife Cathy thanks you all for your kindness and consideration.
At the moment, it appears that Steve's son Shawn is making arrangements to keep the car, but this is still up in the air. If this doesn't work out, your offers will be considered when the family is better able to address them. Please be patient till then, and Cathy will contact you when she can.
If you would like to send a card, please address it to:
Cathy Striharsky 17 Maple Avenue Kings Park, New York 11754
Services will be held on Sunday, June 6:
Clayton Funeral Home 25 Meadow Road Kings Park, New York 11754 631-269-6421 Hours are 2:00-4:30 P.M. and 7:00-9:00 P.M.
Monday: 9:00 A.M. at Clayton Funeral Home 10:30 A.M. Mass Resurrection Byzantine Catholic Church Corner of Edgewater & Mayflower Avenues Smithtown, New York
Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 5, 2010 12:05:10 GMT -5
Pay strict attention to MJ's advice about aftermarket chrome tins. They're all crap -- every one -- and they do not duct airflow correctly.
One look at any of them next to a stock German part will show you a world of difference. "Cheap" isn't about price. It's about quality, and those parts are dictionary cheap!
Warmest,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 5, 2010 11:58:33 GMT -5
After 17 years on the stock 1600 DP top end, I switched from the stock carburetor to the dual Kadron setup (from Gene Berg) in 1994, and have had no problem since. I also switched to an alternator and the Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition. These were installed during the engine's only rebuild at 340,000 miles, and the clock is now nearing 630,000 -- that's almost 300,000 miles without a glitch and only one carburetor cleaning in 2003 or '04.
No more flat spot, no more worn points, no more sh*tty VW voltage regulators and no more headaches. These are three excellent additions that I highly recommend for trouble-free operation and relatively no maintenance.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 30, 2010 8:49:19 GMT -5
Hi, Guys,
My original 1976 install was with the pseudo-Corvette moldings provided by Bradley. When the change to the gasket came along in '77, I bought one from Bradley and made the change. You couldn't get the upper corners to make the tight bend without making a small "V" cut on the inside corners of the gasket, but it was a much cleaner look than the not-quite-real-chrome Corvette-style frames.
Another problem was finally realizing that there was a slight difference between the coupe and convertible glass, and that made a big difference in the way the upper corners fit the frame. The convert glass was almost 3/4" off the seat in the corners. The coupe was only off by 1/4-inch or so.
There's no good news for you about the gasket. I was told that the original gasket, simply called a "universal gasket" at the time, was borrowed from some kind of farming equipment (a tractor with a windshield?). Whatever or wherever, it is no longer available in the same size used by Bradley. In 2000, I found one that was slightly larger, but had to open the windshield frame by 5/8" to make it work. I cut the bottom of the frame in the center and extended it by 5/8" with heavy fiberglass glass cloth and epoxy resin - and lots of sanding.
My fit was good, but roughly a year after the install, the lower edge of the windshield gasket started popping out of the frame. I may have been too detail-oriented and removed too much excess material when trimming the fiberglass lip that traps the gasket. I plan to do a better fit in the next teardown, but that won't happen until I finish my Fiberfab '52 MG TD. Right now, the GT is too much fun to drive to pull apart for a minor issue.
As to the problem under discussion, one of the real issues with the windshield fit comes not from the windshield but the fiberglass frame.
Glass never really sets. It will continue to sag over time and the windshield frame will follow suit. Further, many of these cars have been sitting outside for decades, often as hulks with no windshields installed. When this happens, the Bradley's fiberglass windshield frame can alter its shape dramatically.
One of the fixes I have used with my own car (at least four windshield replacements over 34 years), is to place the windshield into position, then use lengths of 2-by-4s or broomsticks wedged between the floor and the T-top to get the center or corners of the windshield frame to seat the glass correctly. Once the frame is propped to fit, remove the glass but keep the props in position and leave the car in the sun for about a week. That should give the top a decent set, then you can add the gasket and do the install. If possible, don't remove the props until the glass is in.
It's a hit-or-miss method with each car, but you might give it a try.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 28, 2010 13:57:06 GMT -5
Thanks for all the compliments.
We're trying to locate additional pics, including interior shots.
How about a few offers? Steve could use a little cash!
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 27, 2010 12:45:45 GMT -5
Hi, Guys, Most of you know Steve Striharsky's GTII as one of the nicest Twoies to ever show up on the board or at the Carlisle Show. It's beautiful metallic blue with a custom yellow co*kpit, and there's a ton of custom billet metal work all around the vehicle -- nerf bars, light bezels and much more. Other features include a Plexiglas engine lid, custom rims and low-profile tires, 1200 watts of stereo with 10-inch kicker subs in the rear and 6x9 coax speakers up front,. Power is a dual-port VW modified for roughly 2300 CID. Steve's car is for sale, but he has no Internet access right now. He's asked me to post for him and field some basic questions. Offers of $4000 or greater will all be considered. This car would be a good deal at twice that. Serious inquiries only by e-mail to jefftroy@aol.com or my cell: 717-917-3670. Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 27, 2010 12:22:20 GMT -5
Hi, Doug,
Probably true for some of us, including me, and I registered in advance for $25. I might agree, but just take a look at all the "excitement" in this thread.
Might have been better billed as a toe-tag party than a kit car show, but I'd be willing to bet that the rain for the last five years in a row has probably played a big part.
I can't even remember the last time the Kit & Import Show was dry and sunny. So far, it's one hand clapping.
Oh, well, maybe next year.
Warmest,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 25, 2010 22:26:57 GMT -5
Hi, Leonard and Brian,
Interest on the board was non-existent, and the weather reports from and for Carlisle called for rain in the morning and thunderstorms in the afternoon. It just didn't seem worth my time, so I stayed home and worked on a few of my vintage Sunn amplifier restorations.
I had asked anyone who couldn't find me at the show to call cell, which never rang. Seems pretty safe to say that Carlisle is no longer a high-priority event for the club. I didn't go on Sunday either, and never even bothered to check the weather.
My Sunn amps are looking great though, and I did do a nice job cleaning up the "Plastic Racer" for the show.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 20, 2010 8:23:42 GMT -5
Hi, Val,
There is no fixed location for the GT plate. Nothing is in the manual and owner/builders placed them wherever they liked.
Mine, along with my reconstructed title plate, is under the upholstery panel on the driver side wall, where no one can see it unless I'm asked to show it for inspection.
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 17, 2010 10:18:17 GMT -5
Hey, MJ,
You may even be older than I am, so which butt sag is the problem? Yours or the car's?
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 14, 2010 15:10:44 GMT -5
Hi, Again,
I'm still planning to go on Saturday, but returning on Sunday will hinge on turnout. If it's light, I'll have more fun racing vintage karts on Sunday.
Hope to see or meet some of you at the show. If you show up and can't find me, use the cell: 717-917-3670.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on May 1, 2010 16:10:03 GMT -5
Val, Pertronix setup is outstanding. I've had it in the car since 1994 and it's never done anything but work. It also fixed that annoying 2000-2100 RPM flat spot.
MJ - Grant Security System detach wheel is an easy install and works well. Everything comes with the kit. Pics are on the CD. The system adds some extra length to the column, memory says maybe 4-6 inches.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 30, 2010 18:09:43 GMT -5
Hi, Val,
Take a look on the CD. There's a simple steering wheel keeper I designed that bolts under the dash with two extending studs that trap the column between them and secure it with a steel strap, washers and hex nuts.
The support drawing is in "04 1993-1995 Complete Restoration, 01 Drawings, 12-Under-Dash Steering Column Support."
Photo images are in "04 1993-1995 Complete Restoration, 03 1994-1995 Restoration Progress, 05 1994 Body, 01 Steering Head Support Bracket" and "08 2000-2002 Re-Body, 04 Body Assembly, 12 Steering Column Support."
The last image also shows the glassed-in, extended wooden chin that I added to provide a better seat for the upholstery below the steering column.
Other shots of my dash/instrument panel on the CD show the gray vinyl welting (upholstery "piping") that surrounds the steering head for a clean and finished look.
Using this support will prevent any further instances of your steering head breaking through the fiberglass on the bottom of the dashboard. It's easy to make, and a 100-percent effective improvement.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 21, 2010 11:14:59 GMT -5
I'm still going. The plan is for both days, and I hope to see some of you there.
SMYRNA - The roll bar sucks. I had an original when I built my car. The fit was horrible, and the design killed any comfort room between the seats. It also took away any chance of slipping packages over or between the seats to store them on the package shelf. It looked pretty stupid too.
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 21, 2010 11:09:31 GMT -5
Far as I know, key fobs are still available from Pat Monachino (cell: 484-802-0092).
They look good and the price is more than fair.
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 20, 2010 7:43:28 GMT -5
Don't know about the state you're in, but PA has a 12-inch minimum diameter on steering wheels. To pass inspection, Bradley was kind enough to reimburse me for a new one back in the day. Check the local insp laws before you get too far.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 19, 2010 22:05:17 GMT -5
Hi, Val,
Not looking at what you have, but it seems that two 1/4-inch-thick steel strips could run from right to left between the VW tracks on each side of the car, then the glass buckets could be bolted to the plates at their strong points. You could move the seat fore and aft to find the best location before drilling the seats and the plates.
The only negative I see is that the 1/4 inch plates will cost you another 1/4 inch of head room.
Warmest....
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 15, 2010 7:46:36 GMT -5
Hey, MJ,
Same here, ace.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 14, 2010 16:25:46 GMT -5
Hi, Jeff,
Paint might be some kind of low-grade epoxy. It's compatible with just about anything (wait 72 hours for the solvents to evaporate before applying over lacquer), but gums up like an SOB when sanded. The more you sand epoxy, the hotter it gets, and the hotter it gets, the more it gums.
Don't know why Bradley would use epoxy. It's very expensive compared to paints from that era, but I can't think of anything else that would load up your sandpaper like that.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 7, 2010 15:42:29 GMT -5
Hi, Eric,
Welcome back. Funny, but the only times (twice) I was ever stopped in the Bradley was when curious officers wanted to yak about the car. Always pleasant and always fun.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 31, 2010 15:06:44 GMT -5
Hi, Jeff,
Yeah. I didn't really understand what was going on or how to fix it until my third restoration in 1994. Once I nailed it to the misalignment between the inner shell and the hump, the fix was easy.
I used extra rubber gasket to push the body over because I don't weld and it seemed like the easiest way to do the job in small increments if my judgment was off.
BTW, your stuff always looks great. Steadily impressed!
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 31, 2010 10:47:19 GMT -5
Hi, val,
Just a point, but may be useful to you as a caution.
The GT body is comprised of separate inner and outer shells. These were laid up in more than one mold, then joined. Some bodies ended up fitting the VW chassis better than others.
If mounted so the inner body seated perfectly on the frame, the outer shell of my GT body angled slightly to the right. This was most noticeable in a wider overhang over the right front tire, and barely any overhang at all over the left tire.
I corrected this by adding an extra layer of rubber gasket along the left side of the forward chassis hump. This causes the inner shell to sit more to the left, just enough to center the outer body over the tires.
This may not apply to the GTII, so Rob would not have addressed it.
BTW, Rob -- your stuff is always amazing. Great work!
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 30, 2010 8:23:45 GMT -5
Hi, Guys.
Frame or body is a toss-up and a judgment call. Do whatever lights you up first.
The important thing is to get the car operating properly in its original configuration -- however the previous owner built it -- then, after you have a solid set of miles behind you, you will understand what does and does not need to be changed to suit your personal pleasure.
Planning modifications up front before a new owner knows and understands the Bradley is just not practical. People can't effectively judge what they have no experience in understanding. Performance results from, among other formulas, a power-to-weight ratio, not power alone. Sixty-five to 100 horsepower may seem paltry someone who has watched "The Fast and the Furious" a few too many times, but at just 1600 pounds, those 100 horses can pull the GT around very quickly.
The Bradley may not be a race car, but if a race car is what a new owner is looking for, he or she should seriously consider starting with a much bigger budget and a much more suitable platform. Being on a budget isn't a reason to start with a VW; it's the reason that you shouldn't! You're likely to end up spending five times what you expected to transform a family sedan into a performance machine, and the GT design's poor center of gravity will cause too many handling problems at high speed..
Here's some good advice for any new owner to take to heart: 1. Build the GT stock. 2. Get to know and understand its many quirks. 3. Decide on what needs to be improved -- and why -- after evaluating every inch of the car from personal driving experience. 4. Make your mods one at a time. All at once gives you too many results that cannot be properly identified or evaluated. You want to realize the results of each change - pro or con - before moving on to the next change. 5. A 1776 is a good street engine, and will give you excellent reliability if you don't treat your car like a drunken teenager. Get much bigger and you pay for every measure of power with some measure of reliability. Fine if you want to wrench instead of drive, but a big suck if actually want to enjoy the road. 6. Drive defensively. This is positively not the car you want to take to an accident.
Good luck,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 30, 2010 8:01:51 GMT -5
Thanks, Don,
The follow-up is appreciated.
Glad everything is working out.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 27, 2010 21:15:56 GMT -5
Don't be intimidated by what looks like a huge project ahead of you. Work slowly and methodically, one step at a time, and it will all come together.
The biggest issue with most GT's in rough condition is the electrical system. My advice is to turn the body inverted, and go through the system test at the end of the wiring manual. If you find anything that isn't working properly, now is the best time to find it, and inverted is the easiest way to repair it.
When the electrical system is 100 percent -- 99-1/2 isn't good enough -- reassemble the car.
Good luck, and regards...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 24, 2010 14:14:00 GMT -5
Hi, Val,
Don't change anything here; use the original Bradley locking system on the driver door.
If the lock is shot, you can replace it. It's just a common mailbox lock that you can get at Home Depot or any decent hardware store. The tongue may need some artistic bending so it can engage the original ledge-mounted striker, but you might be able to mount the original tongue on the new lock if the cam surface is the same. If not, you might be able to file it to fit.
Otherwise, try another brand of mailbox lock at a different store until you score one that's the same or comes close.
DO NOT put a lock on the passenger door. If you do, you won't be able to lock it or open it from the inside, and that's a real hassle when you have a passenger. I did it, and the experience was something of a prelude to the first time I was ever almost happy when a gull wing broke and I could undo my mistake with a new door.
Also, when you think about locks, think "convertible." If you've ever owned one, you've probably learned never to lock it. If a thief wants your stereo, he'll cut your top to get into the car. Not much sense in losing a stereo AND a good top. Same goes for the GT. The doors can be broken very easily. They are also very expensive, and sometimes, like when Ray is not producing, they're impossible to get at any price.
More of my personal experience on this: The only reason I ever lock my car is to prevent curious passersby from lifting the doors to get a better look inside, then trying to close them but breaking the doors because they don't know how. If you pull straight down, as anyone would normally expect to do, the door prop does not give, and will cause the Plexiglas to crack or break. Then you'll have to write another check to Ray for $250 and shipping. I've lost at least two gulls from polite friends who just wanted to close their own door when they got out of my car. Now I tell everyone, before they get out, to please allow me to take care of the door.
In regard to one your previous posts: Not trying to be snotty (rare), but good comedy for me is following the occasional "build your own gulls" post that shows up on this site. Several members have attempted -- or promised to attempt -- to produce a good homebrew door, but so far, the result has always been the same -- plenty of interest, high anxiety, long wait, no gulls.
A small number of members came up with clever alternate designs that work okay, but none has produced a proper, original-style gull.
Personally, I love the clean, uncluttered-terrarium look of the original gull, and the homemade suff gets kind of goofy looking when some sort of framework is built around them. It might be more pleasing to the eye if something thin and delicate could be fashioned, but everything I've seen to date has been thick, wide and cumbersome. Visibility in the GT is bad enough, and worsens proportionately when these is less viewing area through the gulls.
If you do purchase new or manage to create replacement doors, try omitting the handles. They're all but useless, and the flimsy hinge mounts break very easily. Typical hardware store handles look better on a shed than a car, and you'll find it just as easy to lift the window from its bottom edge than with a handle.
Good luck with it.
warmest...
|
|