|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 24, 2010 13:40:21 GMT -5
Hi, Val,
Cool. When I built my GT in 1976, I ordered the root beer rmetalflake like yours. Looks like you also have the same fawn (light tan) upholstery. My car came with the fastback window, but I installed a Sundowner soon afterward when the that shorter window option was announced. If you like the Sundowner better, you can cut one from the fastback without having to buy a new window. You'll have to make a number of gasket and attachment changes, but images and a few rough of my sketches on the CD will indicate what's needed.
According the configuration of the engine lid, and the lack of rubber bezels under your tail lights, you kit was sold by Bradley in 1975 or before. The lid was changed (wider ledge and license light above the plate instead of below) in 1976.
Good luck. These cars are a f**in' blast.
Warmest,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 24, 2010 11:22:28 GMT -5
Hi,
You should have gotten the CD yesterday. FedEx said they would get it to you by Tuesday. Too late for Saturday, so went next day on Monday AM.
By your e-mail, I took it for granted that you are "an idle teen," and returned the extra $10 you sent for fast shipping. It's in cash in the package. I have a daughter at U-PENN, and I understand young people on budgets.
Good luck with the car. You're on the right board for help.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 23, 2010 15:41:55 GMT -5
Hi, Kill,
Easy, dude. I can't even count the number of threads like this I've seen on this Web site over the years.
Pay attention to Brian's advice, or be prepared to be the next stone in the Boulevard of Broken Dreams. You can't get to the moon with a pogo stick.
I've said it before, if you want to build a race car, why not at least start with some kind of basic performance platform? Don't plan an ambitious project around what was originally designed to be the world's most economical, four-door family transportation.
Best of luck either way, but I hope you give this a lot more thought before doing anything you can't undo.
Warmest,,,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 19, 2010 9:48:01 GMT -5
Hi,
I just drill two 1/4-inch holes, one in each lower corner, and the water hits the ground instead of pooling in the well and ruining the finish.
Use a countersink after drilling the holes to create a smooth draining path.
I never looked to see if the dumped water hits the chassis, but if it does, it's never been a problem -- especially when you consider what the open chassis under a GT is normally subjected to.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 18, 2010 13:37:17 GMT -5
Hi, Brett,
Positively one of the club's regulars has (had?) the stripes and Bradley side/rear graphics. I just can't remember who it is.
They were available in white or black. Just hang out for awhile, and I'm sure he'll post for you.
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 18, 2010 9:56:44 GMT -5
Hi, B,
The ONLY source for proper GT gull wing Plexiglas is Ray Tieney at Sun Ray Products. Note that this information is for the GT, not the Twoie.
Ray has what you need, and it's available right now.
Plexiglas prices are as follows:
Gull Wings: $250 each, driver or passenger side Sundowner (short) Rear: $280 Fastback (long) Rear: $330 GTII Moon Roof: $100 each Half-Gull: $100 each, driver or passenger side
Prices do not include shipping, and please note that because of its size, the long rear window is a very costly item to ship.
Ray can be reached at:
Voice: 763-780-0774 Fax: 763-780-0775 raytierney57@msn.com Sun Ray Products Corp. 8017 Ranchers Rd. Minneapolis MN 55432
If you call, be prepared for a lengthy and friendly conversation. Ray knows more about the GT and its quirks than anyone I've ever spoken with, and he loves to yak about all of them.
Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 16, 2010 21:23:24 GMT -5
Hi, Joe,
Smart man -- get it running and save the glitz for a time when you better understand what a Bradley is and does (and does not!).
So many members start with grand plans and never get to drive their cars.
The KISS Principle is the right way now, and go for everything you want after you figure out exactly what that is.
My compliments on a wise course of action!
Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 16, 2010 20:30:58 GMT -5
Thanks,
I'll get it to you Priority as soon as the PayPal arrives.
I travel extensively, and will be leaving for a model airplane show in Ohio from April 8 -14.
I have no provision for shipping when I'm away, so if you're in a hurry, try to get to me before the 6th.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 16, 2010 9:58:20 GMT -5
Hi,
Sorry, no. The files are huge, and would take all day to upload through AOL. I won't do that.
I don't mind sending Priority at no extra charge if you're in a hurry. Regular postage is included in the price.
If you absolutely can't wait, just send an extra $10 ($45 total) and I'll ship Next Day Air. You'll have to give me a street address for that; UPS won't ship to P.O. boxes. Where are you? If your state neighbors PA, it would only take a day or two to get to you.
Thanks and regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 15, 2010 21:04:33 GMT -5
Hi, Vallyr,
Assuming your Bradley is a GT and not a GTII, the windshield is 1963-67 Corvette coupe. Probably run from $175 - $250 at almost any auto glass shop. If it's GTII (Twoie), there is no commercially available replacement windshield. The Twoie used a proprietary windshield that is no longer in production.
Ray Tierney has Plexiglas doors for the GT in smoke (tinted) and amber (clear). They need to be trimmed to fit each individual car as each Bradley assembler fits things a bit differently.
The full doors are $250 each, but Ray has Half-Doors, similar to what Chris Geddes pictured in his post. Halfsies are $100, and extend approximately 6-8 inches below the curve. Just cut some sheet Plexiglas to fit the lower section and use your imagination to come up with a hinging or mounting system of your own.
Even if you got your car for nothing, the price of parts is still the price of parts. A discounted stove doesn't get you discounted food. Other than the VW donor items, Bradley used very few parts from other cars in the GT, although many parts -- specifically hinges and the gas tank filler - are marine items. Most can still be had from any decent marina.
Finally, joining the club doesn't get you the CD. You can get that with a PayPal for $35 to jefftroy@aol.com, or a check or money order to Jeff Troy, 759 New Holland Ave., Lancaster PA 17602. I'm sure that almost any member will tell you that the CD is very helpful and well worth the price. Incidentally, $5 from every CD sale is donated to maintaining this Web site.
If there is something specific that you need, I'm always willing to send out a page or two two to help. When you need more than that, you'll understand why I made the CD.
All the manuals and updates are on the CD, in addition to roughly 625 thousand miles of history with my own '76 GT - one original build and five rebuilds, two of which were complete, ground-up restorations.
Good luck with the car and warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 13, 2010 17:08:22 GMT -5
Hi, Gary,
Neither can I. I tried calling the Quality Inn. It looked right in the pictures, but they don't have a record of me staying there. Maybe new management again, and I didn't go last year.
Did you remember the hotel, or does anyone else remember the hotel? It's on the left-hand side of RT 11 if you're heading there from the fairgrounds, right next to that nasty, family-style restaurant.
Please post if anyone remembers the hotel name.
Thanks and WR...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 4, 2010 22:05:56 GMT -5
Hi, Buds, I booked it. I made my reservation yesterday for two days on the show field. You can register online at www.carsatcarlisle.com. Looks like I'll have to put a coat of polish on the ol' GT. Hope to see some -- a lot -- of you there. Haven't booked the hotel yet, but will do that in the next few days. Planning to stay at the same spot with the restaurant next door. It's convenient, clean and inexpensive. Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 2, 2010 15:47:48 GMT -5
Hi, Jeff,
Your work is always impressive. Love the chassis.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Feb 23, 2010 12:45:50 GMT -5
Hi,
Good luck with the project.
Make certain that you install a nice, strong "firewall" (actually a kick panel since the engine's in the rear), and tie it into the mock-wood centerboard in the nose. Apart from the centerboard, the only support for the front of the car is created by the bumper carrier tubes, and the whole job shouldn't be left to them. More often than not, their installation is an afterthought, and they don't provide as much support as they should. You don't want the nose to droop or you'll have more than your share of trouble with inclines and fender damage from tire rub.
Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Feb 17, 2010 20:40:09 GMT -5
My system was installed during a major rebuild in 1994, so all the equipment is dated. Still sounds good though, and all the gear and hookup diagrams are on the CD.
My head unit mounts in the wall next to the driver seat. The EQ and one 6x9 four-way speaker are below it. Another 6x9 is on the passenger side, and two Kicker 12" subs are in the rear side panels. The amps and CD changer are in a floor compartment behind the driver seat (matching the battery cover on the opposite side).
Placement is always personal choice, but I've never seen a better -- or wow-factor cooler -- location for the head unit in a GT.
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Feb 13, 2010 12:27:25 GMT -5
Hi, Smyrna,
Can't recall if you have fastback or Sundowner. Probably not much you can do with the fastback because of size and weight, but my Sundowner and gull attach system is still the best I've seen.
I use upholstered straps that are wrapped and sewn the catches on the windows where the snap clips would normally attach. At the end of each strap is a snap button, like the type used on convertible tops and tonneau covers. The car side of the connection has nothing more than a snap stud mounted to accept the cap on the strap.
This system completely eliminates the ruty clips, torn clothing and rattling clips that otherwise go with the Bradley kit parts.
Note the following two items:
1. You must sew a length of non-stretch flexible plastic or other substance inside the straps to prevent stretch.
2. The snap buttons inside the car for the side straps on the Sundowner must be mount on wedges to result in an angle that keeps the snaps secure. If you don't do this, the snaps will simply unsnap and you'll lose the window.
I've used this system on my gulls and Sundowner since 1994. It's positively and absolutely flawless. Drawings for my upholsterer and numerous photos are on the CD.
P.S. No pearling!
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Feb 13, 2010 12:15:57 GMT -5
Hi, Kill,
The GT is designed to be mounted over a stock VW Beetle pan, so that's why a standard issue replacement is okay. Any VW mail order or online parts house will have them. Note that the VW seat tracks (also called rails or mounts) should be removed from the pan before assembling a Bradley, so it's certainly okay to get pans with no tracks installed.
If your car came with the original Bradley kit seats installed, you should have four (two per seat) sliding track assemblies that mount to the pan with carriage bolts, assorted washers and hex nuts. Just re-use them for the new pan.
If you don't have the original Bradley parts, just make something up to suit the seats you choose. One of the advantages to a kit car is that it's all yours -- so you can put anything you dream up into practice. If you're going to hard-mount the seats (non-adjustable), make sure that you sit in them after they are positioned, then drill and install. Old carpenter's adage still applies: measure twice, cut once!
Good luck and warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 30, 2010 22:51:12 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 27, 2010 11:33:46 GMT -5
Hi, Gunny,
If I ever wanted anyone at my back, it would be a Marine. Thank you for your dedication, professionalism and service.
The only backfiring I've ever had has been in the exhaust system, either loose bolts in the connections or a stripped out stud in the head.
Welcome home, and warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 22, 2010 0:58:05 GMT -5
Sorry, but a big Ugh!, at least from me.
Ground effects are so passe, and the original front of the Twoie might carry the car's nicest lines. I'd hate to see you kill them for that monstrosity.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 18, 2010 10:33:25 GMT -5
Hi, Skip,
Instead of repairing the seat, I would have suggested removing the head rest from the other one. Getting carry-along items onto the jump seat is much easier when they can be passed over the seat and into the rear, especially if the car has a non-removable rear window.
Another suggestion, even with the head rest, is to slice a garden hose along its length and press it over the entire perimeter of the seat. Doing this prevents the hard fiberglass edge from cutting through the upholstery over time.
Just the same, you do great work!
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 6, 2010 0:04:54 GMT -5
Hi, Bill,
I know Pottstown fairly well. Use to run the Allied Hobbies store in the KOP Plaza back in the 80's and was pres of the model airplane club that flies in Valley Forge National Historical Park. Also used to fly RC sailplanes at Daniel Boone Homestead, not too far away. Did a show at the ?? Ballroom in Pottstown many moons ago.
You're welcome to come up any afternoon. I travel often, so it would be wise to call first. Cells are 717-917-3670 and 717-917-1272. Best bet is to give me a week's notice.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 4, 2010 9:10:02 GMT -5
Hi, again, Group,
It's important for everyone to understand what an impressive show this can be. A few years back, we had more than a dozen Bradley cars, and twice that many owners The guys from Maryland - Jeff & Beth Troaster and Eric & Erika Eisenberg - organized a tent event where we all contributed to completely assembling a fresh GTII kit from scratch on the spot -- and driving the completed car around the show field on Sunday afternoon.
The following year was pretty good for attendance, then it dropped severely over the next two years. Last year, I don't believe that a single Bradley was on he field, although a few members did visit the show.
When Carlisle is attended by Bradley owners, it's way fun and you can see things that will help you plan your own cars' rejuvenation procedures or improvements. You can learn from anyone, even if it's what NOT to do.
I really do recommend attending the show, It's relatively inexpensive, and you'll have a good time if we get the numbers up.
If you're looking for VW parts, there are more than 100 tables with everything you could imagine for sale. This is major show, not local club get-together.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 3, 2010 11:49:48 GMT -5
Hi, Guys,
It's only an hour away for me, so except for last year, I've been there every year since 1976. Last year's turnout was pitiful, so I didn't bother. I can look at my own car at home.
Otherwise, it's always a good weekend.
If I'll have company, I'll be there.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 26, 2009 12:21:53 GMT -5
Okay. Found it. You might want to peruse the entire thread. It's under SUNRAY UPDATE, roughly 30 posts down from the top.
Here's what you need:
Cutting and trimming Plexiglas is time-consuming, and you must be VERY careful. You POSITIVELY must trim the bottom edge first, or you'll end up with a gull that is too narrow to fit the front and and rear T-top pillars. You'll understand what I mean if you picture a triangle with one point aiming straight up. Now think of your triangle being held over an imaginary triangular opening of the same size, then pull the triangle downward. The two sides are now narrower than the opening, which is exactly what will happen if you trim the top and sides before trimming the bottom. -- and scratch one brand-new $250 gull wing!
I use a handheld jigsaw with a fine-tooth, metal-cutting blade to rough cut approximately 3/4-inch from the edge. Trimming is done in several 1/4-inch steps -- fitting the gull, then marking and cutting each 1/4-inch increment as I go.
Be aware that heat from the blade will cause the cut to close behind the blade as you move the tool forward, so be prepared to back up and re-cut all in two- or three-inch intervals all along the way. Avoid using too much forward pressure on the jigsaw, since that can cause internal chipping in the material. Work deliberately, slowly and -- ALWAYS -- carefully.
I take down and trim the edges to their final fit with a handheld belt sander, and finish the edges with hand sanding from 100-grit paper down to 320 wet-or-dry, all used on a no-give, aluminum sanding block. I also sand a slight radius into both sides of the finished edge to make the Plexiglas more comfortable to grasp and to prevent chipping.
I have tried the torch trick to put a gloss on the edges, but that has never worked well for me. I should probably try again with a few scraps, since the heating of the edge is supposed to prevent cracks from developing from the tiny imperfections in a sanded edge.
Plan on at least one full day to fit and cut two gulls, and most likely two or three days if you've never done it.
Good luck with the car.
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 26, 2009 12:18:39 GMT -5
Hi,
There is no weatherstripping clearance between the gull edges and the roof line because the weatherstripping is under the gulls, not alongside of them. I would not use a cardboard template -- or any other kind -- because the curvature of the doors, which is very different at he front and rear, would not be figured into the template.
I use approximately 1/4 inch between my gull edges and the door frames. Too much farther and the gull doesn't seat evenly over the weatherstrip, and the gulls will contact and scratch the T-top finish if they are any closer to the top.
Best advice for trimming is to fit and cut the gulls in small increments, and positively start with the bottom of the gull, not the sides or top.
I have a lengthy explanation of the correct procedure in another string. If I can find it, I'll post it for you here.
Congratulations on your Christmas present. I hope you keep it around for all your Christmases to come. Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 26, 2009 12:13:12 GMT -5
Thanks, Everyone,
And thanks for the kind note, MJ, and the card, Wyn.
Great day yesterday. Hope all of yours were just as warm and fuzzy.
Warmest...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 22, 2009 21:13:56 GMT -5
Hi, Group,
Hope you and yours have the best Christmas season ever.
Warmest regards,
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 8, 2009 22:46:03 GMT -5
Hey, Chris,
Be well, my friend. Sorry I missed the timeline.
I think one gentlemen wrote, "keep your head down." I don't think anyone could improve on that. Do it, and stay safe.
Thanks ace, and always the best...
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 8, 2009 16:01:54 GMT -5
Hey, Jeff,
Just a side note, but you've really done some great-looking work on those cars. Very impressive.
Warmest...
|
|