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Post by gitrdun on Jun 21, 2016 17:23:23 GMT -5
SOLD!
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Post by gitrdun on Jun 18, 2016 10:44:28 GMT -5
'77 VW chasis with Bradley GT body. Weighs apx 1600lbs. Currently titled and insured. Needs a new crankshaft. The flywheel has came loose and the dowel pin holes in the crankshaft are egged out. As far as I know the only way to fix it correctly would be to replace the crankshaft. I have had this for about 5 years. I drive it maybe 150 miles a year in the summer. Before the loose flywheel it ran great. Starts easy. Sounds like a hot rod with a good exhaust bark. I wouldnt call it fast compared to modern sports cars but its pretty peppy and fun to drive. Needs a good paint job if you wanted to turn it into a show car or something. Interior is all there and in good shape, its origional so it looks old and ugly IMO. I installed a rear view camera as you could not see behind you. All instrument gauges work. MPH gauge, Tachometer, Oil pressure gauge works but sender is origional on/off VW style so it reads max when has pressure and 0 when pressure is low, fuel gauge, head temperature gauge. CD player. Head lights work but high beams do not, did work at one time and i dont recall what it needs. LED brake lights, LED running lights and LED blinkers all around, stock lights wouldnt stay working so i installed LED's. Head light popup covers work. Rear plexi glass window is tinted dark and really needs replaced. Side windows were broke so i turned them into T-top style half windows. No seat belts installed. *engine specs* * 1835cc ,maybe 300 miles on the cylinders and pistons. * dual port heads * 8.5:1 static compression * Engle W110 cam * performance valve springs * dual Kadron Solex single barrel carbs * aftermarket free flow exhaust pipes New rear tires. Needs brake work, the left front will lock up if you jam on the brakes. $2,200 . Text me at 620-380-1769 for questions. I will post some pics as soon as i can figure out how. Short video of it here www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR-ttSh6Dj0 .
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Post by gitrdun on May 27, 2015 19:10:57 GMT -5
If it was me i would have a fab shop quote making a set out of stainless sheet. I made a set for my car by hand to replace the busted stock ones. Paint it to math the car or leave it nice and shiny. Wont have to worry about it getting broken again. And wont have to worry about not getting it done in the first place.
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Post by gitrdun on May 27, 2015 19:01:19 GMT -5
If the body is in good shape id say its definately worth $250. All of the VW parts can be purchased or rebuilt.
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Post by gitrdun on Feb 15, 2015 14:15:28 GMT -5
Wait a minute guys, this one is "NOT A KIT CAR, but an original". Bahahahahahah. That made my day.
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Post by gitrdun on Nov 1, 2014 19:12:05 GMT -5
FYI. I purchased a rear plexi glass from Sunray and they admitted that they never shipped it. Did not refund my money either. Never got it resolved and never got my money back. To put it bluntly i was lied to over and over. I would not reccomend doing business with them. But thats just my experience.
P.S. I love that color on that Bradley, that looks nice.
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Post by gitrdun on Jun 13, 2014 13:31:54 GMT -5
Still has my money. I was to late in calling the credit card company to get a reversal of charges. Last time i spoke with him i made sure he gave me his email address. I sent an email about a week or two ago explaining the situation again and stating to either refund my card or send me the merchandise. At least its now documented.
Ive since fabricated my own rear window which turned out very nice, until i applied the window tint.
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Post by gitrdun on Jun 12, 2014 21:33:06 GMT -5
What are you saying yup to? Recycling hot air or that being a normal temp under the hood?
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Post by gitrdun on Jun 7, 2014 16:31:46 GMT -5
OK i took some readings from a laser temp gun after going for a spin. The engine temp gauge read 350* after sitting for a minute at idle after a drive. I pointed the laser at the exhaust flange where it bolts to the head and got 320*, cant really get a good reading from the heads from all the tin in the way. I also pointed it towards the top of the doghouse tin and it read about 120*, it is 81* outside right now. So does that mean i am recycling the hot air from the engine area or would 120* under the hood be about normal?
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Post by gitrdun on May 26, 2014 13:32:34 GMT -5
No i havent seperated top and bottom. Not sure how to do that on the Bradley 1 without a lot of modifying. Thats the main reason i thought adding a scoop to the top right over the engine might help let some cool air in from the top side. The engine compartment on the Bradley GT1 is pretty much wide open, there is no side panels or anything, basically the body is just an open shell and sits over the engine.
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Post by gitrdun on May 18, 2014 21:09:03 GMT -5
I drove the Bradley today with lower tins in place, still cruising at 400*F. I retarded the ignition a little and it seemed to cool it off by a hair. Caused a low speed stumble and a lot of backfiring when letting off the gas but it actually seems to pull a little harder through the mid range. I have an air scoop i bought awhile back to mount on the rear deck but i cant yet find the courage to cut a big hole in the rear deck.
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Post by gitrdun on May 4, 2014 20:57:35 GMT -5
Well i guess i will be calling the credit card co and see if i can get my money back. I did manage to get ahold of Ray at Sunray about a month ago. He told me they were shipping rear windows and had stock but wasnt sure why my order never shipped. It was suposed to ship right away as he said he would figure out what got messed up and take care of it. Another month later and no window, no courtesy call explaining whats going or whatever. I feel like ive been bold faced lied to. I have a lot of patience but i have no tolerance for disrespect. I will continue making my own rear windshield as best i can. Hell i have a CNC horizontal large enough to mill a wood mold blank if i was feeling froggy enough.
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Post by gitrdun on Mar 27, 2014 16:50:52 GMT -5
I ordered a rear window for my GT1 early last summer. Out of stock so i was more than happy to patiently wait for it and about maybe 6 weeks ago i got a phone call from Ray telling me the window was ready to ship and they needed my credit card number. A couple weeks ago i got the bill on the next card statement, still no window. I called their phone number on two different days trying to reach them and each time the phone was busy for over 45 minutes. I just spent almost an hour trying to reach them and the phone is constantly busy. Im at my witts end here. I dont know how else to get ahold of these guys, im hoping they check this forum from time to time. Ill give a bit more time before i call the credit card company and just get my money returned and move on.
Im not trying to bash anybody here, seems like a nice enough fellow. But this is very frustrating.
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Post by gitrdun on Mar 19, 2014 20:33:56 GMT -5
I do not have the lower cylinder tins. Checked my pile of old VW parts and couldnt find any so looks like ill be ordering some. My vanes are wired open as the thermostat system is gone. It seems to heat right up to running temp as soon as i reach 55mph.
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Post by gitrdun on Mar 13, 2014 16:55:16 GMT -5
I bought a VDO temp gauge that mounts the ring probe under the #3 spark plug. Went for a spin and according to the gauge i was cruising at 400*F 3,000 RPM around 60mph. Aircooled .net website says critical temp for these motors is 425*. Am i going to cook the motor at 400*? If i step on it the temp obviously climbs imediately.
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Post by gitrdun on Feb 22, 2014 19:31:06 GMT -5
I have made another home made rear window for my car and i need some new rubber trim for the window. Did Bradley use standard moulding from say a VW beetle or something to that affect or this a figure it out on your own type thing?
First window i made from lexan and it eventually cracked and broke where the screw holes and latches were. This one i made from thin plexi about 3/16". I dont plan to use the stock latches for this one as im sure it will quickly crack and break as well. My plan is to make two long strips of sheet metal maybe 1-1/2" wide and sandwich the top of the plexi between the two strips. Drill over sized holes through the plexi then lightly screw the sheet metal and plexi in place along the top lip of the window mount. I will still have to figure out something simple to hold the bottom of the window down but that shouldnt be a major problem.
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Post by gitrdun on Jan 19, 2014 16:47:46 GMT -5
Ive been patiently waiting on a rear window from Sun Ray about 6 months now. Very nice guy, he has alot of knowledge about these old Bradley GT's. I think they wait until there is enough orders or interest to be worth the while to make a batch of new plexi. Maybe if you call them and place an order we can both get our new plexi.
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Post by gitrdun on Jan 15, 2014 15:28:28 GMT -5
I bought round LED direct replacements for my GT at Autozone about a year ago. Dont remember the cost but it wasnt bad. Just popped out the old housings and slipped in the new ones. They look the same as the original lights just have LED's and lots less hassle trying to keep them working.
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Post by gitrdun on Nov 2, 2013 19:10:25 GMT -5
I am running an 1835 big bore cylinder kit in mine with the compression bumped up a hair. Its a bit more peppy than a stock motor but for a sports car its still pretty lame IMO. Just for comparison sake, i had a GEO Storm 2.0L 4 banger about 20 years ago and that tin can would outrun the Bradley with ease. These motors just werent made to be sports car motors. Not that a GEO Storm was a real sports car by any means but it had more modern tech.
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Post by gitrdun on Oct 20, 2013 10:13:45 GMT -5
All i can say is the first and only time i took my GT1 out on the highway at 70mph i locked up the motor in 4 miles. I check the oil level everytime before i take it out. Rebuilt an older engine and put it in and i havent been back on the highway since. 60mph all day long is no problem, but to high sustained RPM for highway speeds for me. A highway tranny to reduce the RPM in final gear is in my future when i can afford one.
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Post by gitrdun on Sept 10, 2013 19:07:02 GMT -5
By the way. If you ever decide to upgrade your wheels and sale the ones on it now let me know, i might be interested.
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Post by gitrdun on Sept 10, 2013 19:03:06 GMT -5
Congrats on your new car. Im about 70 miles south of you, its nice to see someone somewhat local on here. IMO as far as the brakes, the stock brakes will stop the car perfectly fine as they are made for a car much heavier. With that said, they can be a PIA to keep them adjusted properly so it doesnt pull left or right when braking and forget about trying to brake easy on gravel, they lock up like crazy on loose terrain. On stock suspension mine turns a corner on a rail but it rides like a meat wagon, every bump feels like a pothole. I put new cheap shocks on and made no difference. Its just set up to rigid for this light of a car. While on the subject of upgrades - my brother has a tricked out Myers Manx buggy with a stock 1600. He put a highway tranny under it to get the RPM down on the highway, best upgrade for an old VW IMO. I cant drive mine past 55~60mph without fear of oveheating the engine from extended high RPM.
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Post by gitrdun on Aug 8, 2013 20:02:14 GMT -5
I ordered a head temp gauge so once i have it in i can check the running temp before putting the scoop on then compare it after.
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Post by gitrdun on Aug 5, 2013 19:26:03 GMT -5
I always keep a can of starting fluid around, if there is any doubt whether its fuel or spark not allowing an engine to start just give it a shot of starting fluid then try and start it. If it hits at all then you know you have spark and the problem is almost certainly fuel related.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 27, 2013 19:49:13 GMT -5
Thats the same scoop i just picked up at Autozone. Looks pretty good IMO.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 18, 2013 19:19:46 GMT -5
Wyn - Where did you find that pic of my car? I dont remember having uploaded that but obviously i did.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 18, 2013 13:40:43 GMT -5
Nice rear cover, throw some LED's in there and that would really look trick at night. I found a small triangle shaped scoop at Autozone i think i am going to use.
I dont think there is any way to connect the fan inlet to ductwork as the gas tank is directly in front of the inlet and only a couple inches at most of distance between the two.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 17, 2013 21:21:31 GMT -5
Im not sure what you mean by "filler". Also i probably should have noted i have a GT1. Im not sure if the stock separator tins would really separate the heat on the GT since its all open under the rear deck and fenders.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 17, 2013 12:57:10 GMT -5
The only separation i have is the stock tin covers that go over the heads. Other than that there is nothing and it seems to get much hotter under the rear deck than i think it should. Also im not crazy about having the gas tank maybe 2" away from the opening of the cooling fan, thats gotta restrict the flow.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 17, 2013 8:27:51 GMT -5
I am going to install a small hood scoop on the rear deck over the engine to let the heat out. My question is would it be better to have the opening facing forward like a conventional scoop or would it be better to face it rearward? I dont know if it would "scoop" air down into the engine compartment when driving or if it would work better facing rearward and give the hot air and escape hole.
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