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Post by gitrdun on Jul 13, 2013 22:36:18 GMT -5
Already downloaded it. Thanks a bunch.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 13, 2013 20:10:12 GMT -5
Awesome. I tried printing an emblem for mine last winter but never got it to come out good enough for me. Ill shoot you a PM with my email if youd be willing to share, or you could upload the models to thingverse for anyone to use.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 6, 2013 12:29:14 GMT -5
Got it going. I have LED lights all around and the front blinkers werent wired to ground, they were wired to the running lights wire instead of ground.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 5, 2013 22:25:07 GMT -5
I just noticed that when i turn on my head lights or running lights that my front blinkers dont blink and dont come on at all. With lights off they work fine. The rears work fine with lights on or off.
Any ideas what is wired up wrong?
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Post by gitrdun on Jan 24, 2013 22:27:12 GMT -5
Im looking for a rear window for a GT. I would take a short or long version, anything is better than the ugly home made one i have now.
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Post by gitrdun on Oct 21, 2012 11:46:45 GMT -5
I like that. I wish i had the fiberglass skills to do that. Making a rear glass would be much simpler for that, and would look better to boot.
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Post by gitrdun on Sept 12, 2012 8:16:01 GMT -5
I bought a Bradley Gt a year ago for $3200, complete, running and everything was in good condition even the paint.
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Post by gitrdun on Sept 11, 2012 21:01:45 GMT -5
Check the shut off solenoid thats located by the idle and mixture screws. I had a carb which had the solenoid stem missing. It clicked when you connected 12V so i assumed it was in working order. Turned out someone had broke it and removed the stem. There was no way to get the carb to idle correctly and it would die when decelerating while driving.
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Post by gitrdun on Sept 8, 2012 13:32:27 GMT -5
I am using AA pistons and cylinders in my GT. I have only about 150miles on them now but no problems yet. I have not gone beyond 65mph as my last engine locked up tight at 70mph so im a little skittish. I bought mine from texasaircooled.com. It took a few weeks to get them but i am more than satisfied with the quality.
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Post by gitrdun on Aug 18, 2012 12:19:09 GMT -5
Ditto. Get it running well and then start in on the body details. Dont really know what needs fixing til its driveable anyways. Congrats on the new ride. I love having a nice car that everybody scratches their head at and says what the heck is that thing.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 19, 2012 20:55:12 GMT -5
I am thinking of adding some vents to the rearend of my GT to let some of that hot air out that builds up under the rear deck. I have a 3d printer so making my own custom vents should be a breeze. Has anyone here tried this before? Wheres the most effective place to put the vents?
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 17, 2012 19:57:27 GMT -5
I disconnected the yellow signal wire on the back of the gauge and it still pegs out. I didnt think to check to make sure if it has good ground or not. Its 102* out today and i had to give up before my body gave up.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 15, 2012 13:29:53 GMT -5
My oil pressure gauge is not working properly and hasnt since ive had the car. When i turn the key on the gauge pegs out. Even if i unhook the wire from the sending unit the gauge pegs out. The gauge and the sending unit both have VDO on them as the mfg so i assume they are a match set. Do i have a ground problem, or a bad sender? I dont know how these electric gauges work, should i have voltage on the gauge wire or is it a ground?
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 15, 2012 10:43:33 GMT -5
Well the short story, it runs great. The long story, in a quick net search i wasnt able to find the shims i needed for my over sized cylinders. local auto parts stores dont carry the brass shim paper like you used to get for making gaskets. So i bought a sheet of .025" thick galvanized steel. I cut a ring out of it just the right size and it fit perfect. Put everything back together with the spacer on the low cylinder and it runs great with no hint of pinging or knocking. And boy does she have some power at 1840cc and around 10:1 compression. Sounds awesome to.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 14, 2012 16:22:43 GMT -5
I did try running it with the belt off.
I removed the heads and one cylinder has less than .010" deck clearance. The rest look pretty even around .03 maybe. No signs of any contact with anything and the low clearance piston hast been chipped away or over heated on the edge. I downloaded a compression calculator and at .03 clearance i should be around 9.9:1. I will need .125" clearance to get to 7.7:1. Wow. Is that normal?
Now i hope i can find shims for a 92.5mm piston cylinder.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 14, 2012 11:41:52 GMT -5
No, i did not check the deck clearance. In my haste i must have completely over looked it, i hadnt even thought of that. That and it was 1AM and 3 beers when i assembled the motor. I will pull the heads and take a look. I will see if i can shoot a quick vid before taking the heads off. The knock is constant at idle, high idle, accel, and decel. Even in gear letting out on the clutch and moving forward or reverse. It has to be something with the crank, a rod, or piston.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 12, 2012 21:21:44 GMT -5
It does sound like a rod knock, but ive never had a rod that knocked continuously. They usually would stop knocking when you throttle up fast and then hammer like heck on deceleration. I put it in gear and ran it back and forth a bit and the knock stayed constant so i dont think its a flywheel problem.
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Post by gitrdun on Jul 11, 2012 19:45:15 GMT -5
My stock 1600 motor siezed up solid on me after a 4 mile stretch at highway speeds, 70mph. Aparently it ran out of oil as it was dry when i checked it after the fact. I had checked it about 5 times previously and it hadnt used a drop but the one time i went for a spin and didnt check wouldnt you know it.
Anyways, i had a big bore motor (1835) sitting in the garage needing new cylinders and pistons so i thought this was a good time to upgrade the power dept. I installed a new set of pistons and cylinders and installed the motor in the car. On initial fire up the motor has a hard knock. I disconnected the plug wires one at a time and nothing changed, checked the valve lash and watched the valves as the engine ran. Im thinking it must be a crank problem or cam shaft. I also switched distributors and checked timing. The noise seems to be eminating from the drivers side of the engine but its hard to tell.
Is there anything else i can check to diagnose the problem before removing the engine and going through an entire tear down?
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Post by gitrdun on May 21, 2012 19:25:20 GMT -5
Mine is off by about 3 or 4 inches to the left. The left front tire is well under the fender and the right front hangs out. Dont know if its fixable now or not.
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Post by gitrdun on Apr 17, 2012 21:26:45 GMT -5
I live out in the country, its actually legal to drive anything on the county roads, but the road quality isnt the greatest and 90% of it is gravel. This is the worst car ive ever driven on gravel, the brakes lock up the instant you touch them on loose terrain. Ive taken a few short spins before now but it was nice to go into to town and drive on some roads that are actually maintained to see how smooth the suspension is. I dont have seat belts installed yet so im not sure if im technicaly legal as far as that goes. Im relieved that it was as enjoyable as i hoped it would be to drive it for a decent distance.
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Post by gitrdun on Apr 17, 2012 20:22:24 GMT -5
and one more. Attachments:
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Post by gitrdun on Apr 17, 2012 20:21:25 GMT -5
another wiew. Attachments:
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Post by gitrdun on Apr 17, 2012 20:19:25 GMT -5
Finally got the GT-1 ready and got a nice drive in. It was much more comfortable than i thought it would be. Im 6' tall and 205lbs and i was very comfortable for the 30 minute drive. Ran smooth without a single hickup. I bought this car about 90% finished. It had the old chocolate brown with gold flake paint on it. That had to go. I dont have a lot of $ to put into this project so i went with Rustoleum safety red gloss paint and applied it with a smooth roller. Not a professional paint job but for less than $50 worth of paint / thinner and supplies it looks pretty good IMO. Next problem was the fact that i cant see out the back window at all because of the roll bar. So i installed a wireless camera and small 4" monitor on the console to be used as a rear view mirror. Works great. One gull wing was broken where the swivel mount should be so i had to add some .062 aluminum plates to the top of the door to mount the gull wings. I also cut them down to be half wings which i think looks better and will give some much needed colling to the interior on a hot summer day. I didnt latch them down and was surprised that the air moving over the car while moving actually pushes down on them and holds them down. I started with the cheap and easy just to get me on the road and plan to get a real paint job done by a real painter and start fixing it up piece by piece somewhere down the road when funds provide. Attachments:
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Post by gitrdun on Apr 9, 2012 18:07:28 GMT -5
Hey i notice you mention you have an electric fuel pump. Mine has an old origional electric pump and i suspect it is running at to high of a pressure for the carburetor and force filling the bowl. Do you know how much pressure your pump puts out? And do you have anything installed between the pump and carb to limit pressure?
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Post by gitrdun on Apr 2, 2012 17:44:07 GMT -5
I love the doors, that is killer. I tried doing that with mine last winter but my fiberglass skills are terrible. Nice job.
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Post by gitrdun on Apr 2, 2012 17:39:02 GMT -5
Sorry, i should have posted back earlier. I bought a set from Ray. Thanks anyways.
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Post by gitrdun on Mar 4, 2012 11:59:45 GMT -5
The only reason im thinking it might be cheaper is because i would have to pay someone to paint the car for me as ive never painted a car. Even a cheap paint job would probably set me back about $200-$300. The vinyl im pretty sure i could do. For a solid color vinyl sheet its about $120 or less. The only prep is to wash the car good before applying the vinyl, at least thats what i gather. And if you dont get it right you suposedly can pull it up and reaply it until you get it right. One problem i see with vinyl is most cars you would apply it on each individual body panel seperately. On the Bradley there are no body panels, its one big fiberglass body.
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Post by gitrdun on Mar 3, 2012 21:19:46 GMT -5
My GT1 has the old gold flake disco paint. I was a kid when this paint style was in. I thought it was ugly then and my opinion hasnt changed so i am going to change the color. I dont have the $ to spend on a proper nice paint job (ok my wife isnt going to let me spend that much) so i am thinking about trying a full body vinyl cover. Since the car is garage kept and i wont be driving it in the rain the vinyl might hold up over time. But i have no experience with these vinyl covers and im wondering if there is more to this than meets the eye, or is it really as easy as they make it seem to put it on? Any tips or ideas?
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Post by gitrdun on Mar 3, 2012 17:04:08 GMT -5
Thanks. Ill check with Ray. I bought some off the net that looked identical but the bolt holes didnt match the origional.
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Post by gitrdun on Feb 25, 2012 18:32:53 GMT -5
I need a set of GT1 gull wing hinges. Just need enough for drivers side. I cant find any that are an exact math to the originals. Shoot me a price if you have some extras.
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