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Post by pushnfords on Dec 22, 2016 20:39:55 GMT -5
Car was completely rebuilt from the frame up with all high quality parts and just about everything was rebuilt or replaced. There are pics in my signature link but I also have current pics of the car...it has been painted yellow. Owner is asking $15,000. Please email me at restorat@hotmail.com if you are interested...I'm not on this forum much anymore.
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Sold
Sept 10, 2014 10:30:39 GMT -5
Post by pushnfords on Sept 10, 2014 10:30:39 GMT -5
Dang, I'm sorry guys! I forgot this forum doesn't email notifications for replies to threads.
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Sold
May 1, 2014 0:03:50 GMT -5
Post by pushnfords on May 1, 2014 0:03:50 GMT -5
Please look at these albums to see what I have left and let me know if you are interested in any of it. VW PartsBradley Parts
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Post by pushnfords on Apr 16, 2014 10:21:08 GMT -5
I finished redoing a GTII that was on a '72 pan for a customer last year and am now getting rid of the left over parts. I'll update this list as I get everything organized. - New 200MM STD flywheel from cip1.com part number VWC-311-105-271
- Used muffler - should be good but we replaced with ceramic coated new muffler. This style.
- Stock parts from '72 dual port: distributor, carb, intakes, & 2 coils
- Mostly complete set of cooling tins
- Thermostat flaps
- Full set of brakes including drums, backing plates, and front spindles.
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Post by pushnfords on Apr 16, 2014 10:03:52 GMT -5
That stuff was in the GTII I redid. It is fiberglass duct insulation like you'd use in a building. We took it out and replaced with Dynomat.
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Post by pushnfords on Apr 16, 2014 10:02:13 GMT -5
I was able to pull the engine out with the trans in place. Very tight fit but it came out.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 10, 2013 1:10:08 GMT -5
Most parts stores carry a round trailer light that will fit the hole where the bumper bracket goes through the body.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 1, 2013 10:24:51 GMT -5
[/quote]On a hot summer day at sustained 70+ mph and 3500+ rpm mine runs warmer than I like. Oil temp will climb to 230-240 deg F and cyl head temp will climb to 325-340 deg F range. At 65 mph and below it stabilizes at 190-200 deg F oil temp and 275-300 deg F cyl head temp. This is at sustained running in hot weather. Outside air temp does seem to affect it some, especially at higher speeds.[/quote]
That's about what I'm running into. At 65mph or below it was running 200-210 degrees. Once I hit 75mph or faster temps started climbing. The oil temp gauge only went to 250 but I was pulling over or slowing down to cool it off once I hit 240. Don't have a cyl head temp gauge. Outside temps were high 60s to low 70s.
The same RPM's that cause overheating also start to blow oil out of the breather tube.
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Post by pushnfords on Oct 18, 2013 14:19:21 GMT -5
Hi pushinfords, Try backing the total ingition advance off to the recommended 30 deg. You my be getting a little inaudible detonation at 32 deg which can cause performance loss, overheating, and extra stress on internal engine parts. This only shows up at higher throttle opening and high rpm. Gary Hammond, I backed it off to 28 degrees last week with no change in operating temperatures. Will your Bradleys run at 3500rpm for extended periods without overheating?
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Post by pushnfords on Oct 16, 2013 9:44:40 GMT -5
When I bought the rebuilt engine from Chico Performance I also got the dual carb kit from him so they would be matched to the engine. I know that doesn't always mean that much...especially since we had to add a balance tube to get it to idle on more than two cylinders. I checked the plugs after running the engine at 4K rpm and they looked good. Tan insulator with a little soot on the metal. No signs of leaning out.
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Post by pushnfords on Oct 15, 2013 16:50:16 GMT -5
Thermostats generally fail in the cold engine position causing hi temps. Is the crank pulley stock diameter or is it a power pulley? The increased air speed at lower pressure into the fan does not translate into more air volume out. . Could be the dual carbs. In Beetles the engine cover is opened at the top as dual carbs steal too much of the available cooling air. The thermostat was bad but the flaps were mostly open. I adjusted the bracket all the way up to jam the flaps open and no difference in the temps. The crank pulley is stock diameter I believe. I don't have the original crank pulley here to measure...do you know the size and I'll double check? Really the only place for the fan to draw in air is around the carbs or from under the car. The shroud almost touches the body at the top.
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Post by pushnfords on Oct 14, 2013 15:14:59 GMT -5
I am interested in what you call a Bradley heat/cold seperator. Was this a factory option from Bradley or one that you made? Is it possible for you to give me the measurements of this unit,also could you tell me what material this unit is made of. My gtll did not have this unit and therefore my request. Thanks larry9j Take a look at this picture: The engine...It is a fiberglass panel approx 1/8" thick. I found some rubber at a wholesale store that I cut & riveted to the edge where a similar original seal had decayed and fallen off. It attaches with three factory holes in the engine tin & the rear just hangs. The one I'm working on had to be clearanced to make room for the oil filter hoses to run through and it also had to be cut in half to be able to be installed.
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Post by pushnfords on Oct 14, 2013 2:02:12 GMT -5
Have you separated the hot and cold sides of the engine? At high speeds the turbulence in the engine bay can severely affect the airflow to the fan inlet. Do you have a stock fan shroud and pulleys? Are your thermostat flaps installed? Is the bellows working? Are the lower cyl tins in place as well as the sled tins that bolt to the sides of the oil pan/engine block? Is airflow still connected to the heat exchangers? {J tubes increase heat by not helping to cool off the heads the way heat exchangers do.} The location of your temp sender will give a cooler reading than normal. The velocity ring was never intended to be used on a 1600 based engine. What temp are you reading at high speed? Can you check the oil without getting burnt after a high speed run? Post some pics of your engine bay. I have the original Bradley shelf in place to separate the hot/cold sides. I have all of the factory tin in place although the crank pulley is aftermarket. The thermostat & flaps are installed but looks like the thermostat has failed. I did check the linkage travel though and the flaps are stuck open. The lower tin is all in place. I'm running 210 degrees at 70mph or slower. If I got to 75 or 80mph it'll start heating up pretty quickly...I've pulled over or slowed down when it does but it has been to 240. This is the Venturi Ring I put on...why do you say it isn't intended for 1600 engines? I've taken an IR temp gun with me the last couple of times & temps at the sending unit on the filter housing and on the block seem to be consistent with each other. I don't think the filter housing is any cooler than the block. The engine...
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Post by pushnfords on Oct 13, 2013 18:38:25 GMT -5
I've got 320 miles on the GTII now and it runs good. The oil temp sender is in the remote filter mount attached to the side of the engine compartment. At 70mph or slower it'll stay under 210 degrees. But...if I run up to 75-80mph it promptly starts to overheat. I'm wondering if the cut out in the engine cover is simply not drawing in enough air?
Specs:
Rebuilt 1679 with dual carbs & Pertronix distributor. All OEM tin with new oil cooler, Hoover bit, and the velocity ring that Awesome Powercoating sells. Total timing is 32 BTDC.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 29, 2013 19:13:42 GMT -5
Curious...how much are you asking?
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 29, 2013 15:20:00 GMT -5
Google the number off of the old light...I think you'll find it on the rubber surround. They are still available off of the German eBay site I saw. I'd contacted another member about buying his because I had a mirror that was fogged bad. I haven't heard back from him but if I do you can have them...I ended up having a new glass cut locally due to a time deadline.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 26, 2013 12:40:58 GMT -5
I've got all of the new lift supports installed...here is what I used:
Glass Hatchback: A pair of 9416K16 from McMaster Carr in a 40lb rating. I bought new plastic ends for the body side and reused two of the smaller diameter metal ends off of the old lift supports due to interference with the glass. I tried a pair with a 50lb rating but got a little bow in the glass when shutting & the body side mount brackets had a lot of flex.
Engine Cover: 9416K16 with 30lb rating. I added a small spring that is held on with the bolt mounting the striker to the door so it'll pop & raise by itself...but does it pretty gently.
Doors: 9416K16 in 80lb rating. Pretty good feel all the way through. Any longer strut & they won't fit. I think even with the original style metal ends they wouldn't fit...I used 9416K86 ends on everything except the two that attach to the rear glass due to clearance issues.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 25, 2013 10:52:39 GMT -5
I should clarify, I haven't purchased anything from them yet, so you should probably verify from them that it's the tight ones. Pushnfords mentioned there are several weights and lengths but they look like a manufacturer so I'm sure they have everything. These are probably the ones you mentioned? eBay Auction
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Brace:
Sept 25, 2013 10:34:23 GMT -5
Post by pushnfords on Sept 25, 2013 10:34:23 GMT -5
I'm currently mounting doors/windows/eng cover on a GTII that doesn't have the butt sag and so far I can see daylight through almost every gap. Do any of these actually seal water tight? lol
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 24, 2013 19:15:19 GMT -5
I have the same air conditioner in mine. The thing is so space consuming, and I can't figure out how to tighten the belt. We ended up leaving the air conditioner out...all of the pieces have been removed.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 15, 2013 16:52:42 GMT -5
Thanks! Got one ordered from Amazon...need it quick! lol
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 15, 2013 13:53:56 GMT -5
How were Bradleys originally set up with the headlight switch and relay? My current switch is has momentary contacts for hi beams...so it appears I'd need to have a holding relay of some sort to actually switch between hi/lo. Is there a factory VW headlight relay that was used?
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 15, 2013 13:41:20 GMT -5
Sometimes I think it would still be cheaper to buy a running & driving bug for cheap and then use it as a donor for a cheap ($500 range) Bradley. Sell off the VW parts to recoup some money. I'm nearing completion of a Bradley GT2 semi restoration (not doing body work) and they are expensive. Parts can be expensive and pretty much everything has had to be redone to work correctly that came with the car...and it is very rare to buy a part and have it fit without modification. I've never ran into a car make where reproduction and aftermarket parts are so consistently ill fitting then the VW stuff.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 15, 2013 11:37:19 GMT -5
I'm working on making some panels for the sunroof using aluminum. How thick were the original sunroof windows? If I use 1/8" thick material when I tighten them down securely they compress the weatherstrip and sit quite a bit lower than the body. To sit flush it seems like I'd need almost 1/4" thick material. So...wondering if the recess is "factory" or if the original panel was thicker than 1/8" or so?
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 15, 2013 11:28:03 GMT -5
Not sure what style the GT has but for the GTII I'm working on I bought some from Metro Moulded and then some from eBay when I realized I didn't order enough.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 3, 2013 9:07:20 GMT -5
Awesome...got mine from Swisco last week.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 3, 2013 9:06:48 GMT -5
I don't have any pieces of the original windows...but I really don't like the idea of having sun beating through the glass right above the occupants. I'm working on cutting pieces of aluminum sheet that will still be removable but hopefully keep the interior cooler as well.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 3, 2013 9:05:00 GMT -5
FWIW when I ordered new struts from McMaster Carr I also ordered all new nylon ends for them. When I went to install them on the rear glass they are too big and won't fit. But I found the original metal ones unscrew so I blasted/painted two of the originals and used them.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 3, 2013 9:03:38 GMT -5
Does anyone know where to obtain an engine compartment or hatchback latch assembly? I was looking at VW latches from Mid America and several look similar. I might end up with an extra one or two but I won't know for another month or so.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 3, 2013 9:02:09 GMT -5
I just ordered part number WC 15-72 from Metro Moulded Parts, Inc. tonight...hoping it fits! If you go the same route you'll need two pieces. Shortly after I ordered the single piece from Metro I realized I needed two pieces for the necessary length. Since the order was already complete from Metro I also ordered some weatherstrip from eBay. They were slightly different but both worked fine.
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