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Post by pushnfords on Jan 29, 2011 17:50:29 GMT -5
I'm working on assembling the front beam and I can't find the large washers for the upper ball joint anywhere. They have to be fairly big to keep the nut from slipping in the camber adjuster hole in the spindle but I don't know what OD or thickness. A friend helped take apart the front suspension so I don't think I even saw them to know what I'm looking for. Does anyone have one laying around they could measure for me?
Thanks!
Derek
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Post by pushnfords on Jan 29, 2011 17:42:23 GMT -5
I never heard back from you...sending another email.....
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Post by pushnfords on Jan 29, 2011 17:28:30 GMT -5
I recently bought a decimated 75 Bradley GT, with no seats, missing glass, and a load of other stuff. I have never been more excited. I couldn't find the original dimentions including the amout of layback for the original seats. Could somebody please post the measurements for the seats? I am pretty good with fiberglass work, and have made similar seats for aircraft before. I am hoping to recreate a slightly modified version of the originals. Please Help!! lol - PCc If you still need dimensions I'm resuming work on a '78 GTII and I have the seats laying in the garage. Send me a PM with a description of what you need and I can measure it for you. Derek
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 28, 2010 23:01:12 GMT -5
I'm just now checking back for your reply but I was working on a stand today. I have the front done and supported although I ran a 2x4 across instead of a 2x6. I figured if it is light enough for me to lift then the 2x6 was probably adequate? I'll have to do a little more thinking on the rear since my garage has a loft that doesn't extend over the rear. I may end up running a board from the front to rear posts on both sides at ground level and at the rafter level so the rear is free standing.
I can lift one front corner with one hand to move the post up a notch while putting in the bolt with the other hand. Not sure if I'll be able to do that on the rear...my back is hurting from lifting it while my wife set jackstands/boards under it to hold it for now.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 28, 2010 22:54:06 GMT -5
The Gt2 you are referring to was never sold since the son of the builder, Steve Striharsky (of Blessed Memory) wanted to hold on to it out of endearment to his dad. Just for your info I offered 6.5k for the car and would have been tickled to have it for that price! I'm doing a mechanical restoration and some upgrades on a '78 GT2 for a friend. At the start of the project I saw Steve's car for sale and urged him to buy it but he didn't want to. That car couldn't be built for that price.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 26, 2010 16:20:48 GMT -5
There was a really nice GTII for sale for $4K a while back. Nice blue paint, billet alum parts, performance engine, interior in good shape, etc. From the pictures it looked ready to show and it was for sale for a while....not sure what it sold for. That's about the top dollar I've seen them listed for although it is easy to get more than that in one.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 26, 2010 16:15:44 GMT -5
Expensive...but if you were already needing to replace the pans due to rust the price is about what you'd have in some lighter gauge pan halves.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 26, 2010 16:13:32 GMT -5
Did you anchor the legs to the concrete or just attach them to the rafters at the top?
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 26, 2010 16:11:00 GMT -5
The owner decided not to mess with dropping the floor pans due to the time and expense involved so I'll just be putting in rear 1/4 patches. I've got a new front axle ordered (shipped today from cip1) and I'll hopefully be working on building a rack for the body this weekend. I'm hoping that if I get the body stored high enough I can wheel the pan in and out as needed to either work on the pan inside or move it outside to work on the interior. I picked up the seats so I'll still investigate raising the body. Looks like the seats would be easy to trim down but I need to see what I'd run into for mounting. I'm also a little worried about trimming the seats leaving a sharper edge that would make sliding in and out uncomfortable. We'll see once it is mocked up....
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 18, 2010 19:45:54 GMT -5
I'm going to pick up a Crown Vic I'm buying this weekend and will be somewhat close to the Bradley owner's house...I'll try to pick up a seat so I can mock it up and see what I'm facing. Just need to get the suspension back together first. Well...and make some kind of a stand to hold the body. I only have one garage bay free so I need the body high enough I can store the pan under it and wheel it back and forth as needed. And I just send money for a CD.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 17, 2010 13:43:55 GMT -5
i thought you were talking about the pans. by beam, do you mean the cross member piece? front or back? trying to visualize. big bob Sorry...yes I was talking about pans in this post. But I found out my front axle beam is bent and that is priority vs. the pans. I'm trying to get the pan back on its wheels so I can move it in and out of the garage and I'll do the welding inside. I just got off the phone with Cip1 and I guess their orange floor pan halves are the thickest patches available. I was hoping to just replace the rear quarter sections but their patches are 1-2 gauges thinner. So far I've been unable to find thicker 1/4 patches for a '72 pan.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 17, 2010 13:41:05 GMT -5
You can also raise the body. I thought I read that the seat overlapped the side rail of the pan so you couldn't drop the pan under the seat with a GTII seat installed. Wouldn't that mean the seat also overlaps the edge of the body? I've asked the owner to bring me the seats but he didn't remember on his last trip so I can't mock it up. I know it is covered on jefftroy.s CD Try a search here also I didn't get the CD because Jeff told me most of his info related to the first version...and I thought I had the chassis licked! Haven't figured out a good way to search this forum...."pan" is too short of a word and is thrown out by the search engine.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 16, 2010 23:57:10 GMT -5
Sending you an email.
Derek
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 16, 2010 23:54:31 GMT -5
The owner of the Bradley I'm working on came to look at it tonight and asked if it was possible to lower the floor in front of the seat for more leg room. We haven't had the car assembled with the seat in it so I really don't know if this would be a benefit or not. Any thoughts?
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 16, 2010 23:52:49 GMT -5
they might have a black friday deal if you can wait I really need the replacement beam more than anything. The pans aren't a huge priority right now. The owner came to look at the car tonight and asked about dropping the front 1/4 of the pan....I'll start a new thread on that. Guess the whole thing is now up in the air.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 15, 2010 0:45:24 GMT -5
Tried searching but "pan" is evidently too short of a word? I need to replace the rear pan sections due to rust on the Bradley. I tried to order the thick replacements from aircooled.net but I guess their source dried up. I've found some thicker patch panels that are half pans but I'd rather get 1/4's and just do both rears. I tried searching on the Samba too but am coming up with threads that are old and with outdated info. Can anyone tell me a source for factory (or thicker) pan patch panels? I really don't want to put some flimsy patch in this car. Thanks!
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 4, 2010 20:02:33 GMT -5
Sent a PM....
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 4, 2010 19:25:14 GMT -5
Scott, That second picture was hijacked. I believe that application has disc brakes which can sometime require those check valves to keep some pressure on the caliper piston. Do all systems need the check valves? This Bradley is the first car I've converted to disc brakes without using a factory setup. Going with disc front and rear but none of the kits mentioned needing check valves.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 11, 2010 14:51:41 GMT -5
Check my signature for pics of the GT II I'm working on. It had a complete A/C system on it.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 11, 2010 14:50:37 GMT -5
Hi Pushnfords, The tie rods should all be straight! Gary Hammond, Thanks...sounds like a good first job for the press I picked up. I wouldn't worry about taking it apart to fix a little bend but since I have it off....
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 11, 2010 14:49:39 GMT -5
Are you asking about the fiberglass posts & headliner. Is so, I have the complete set for sell. PM me for phone # SOLD I bought that set from him. Basically what I have is the vinyl pieces that came with the kit and some of the foam for under them...they are straight from the factory and never installed...although they didn't take any special care in cutting out the vinyl close to the pattern drawn on the back. I'd have to think about cost but I could make you a copy of the patterns...won't take long = cheap. Derek
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 7, 2010 18:55:16 GMT -5
The car I'm working on has the DOT VIN sticker in the driver's side door jamb.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 7, 2010 18:52:33 GMT -5
Very nice looking car! I'm almost more surprised to see a Radio Flyer wagon over there than a Bradley.
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Post by pushnfords on Sept 7, 2010 7:21:57 GMT -5
The long tie rod off the GTII I'm working on has a bend in it. Is that correct or should it be straight?
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Post by pushnfords on Aug 15, 2010 11:29:30 GMT -5
Ok, thanks...that makes sense! For a spot under there I may just weld in some washers where the metal is torn out. Better ask the owner..... Derek
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Post by pushnfords on Aug 15, 2010 11:28:27 GMT -5
anyone here done their own powder coating, the equip is not that expensive, but the oven may be costly, I have heard of building your own oven for a fraction of the cost, though A friend of mine has a small oven up and running he built and he's working on one big enough to do frames and things. He's done almost everything with used/surplus parts for pretty cheap. I think the main problem is keeping everything clean...you have to blast the parts then straight to the coating and oven to keep dirt from getting all over it. It looks great when done though! Most of the time I find it is cheaper to have parts powder coated than what I can buy the paint and materials for. I've heard of some people doing small parts in old household ovens but the size would be severely limited.
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Post by pushnfords on Aug 15, 2010 0:03:11 GMT -5
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Post by pushnfords on Aug 14, 2010 22:12:21 GMT -5
Hi, Guys, Here are the missing items: $35 PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com, or mail check to Jeff Troy, 759 New Holland Ave., Lancaster PA 17602. Cell is 717-917-3670. Warmest regards, Didn't know how public you were with that info. Got my rear end chewed off once for giving out someone else's phone number.
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Post by pushnfords on Aug 14, 2010 21:10:18 GMT -5
Here's an email reply I got from Jeff when I asked about the CDs. If you want his contact info PM me:
There are two CD's, one for the GT and another for the Twoie. My GT has 34 years and 630,000 miles under my thumb, so that CD is loaded with information. I never built my GTII, so the CD is a lot lighter in content. Both CD's have the complate build and electrical manuals and all the official Bradleu update pages for both. There are parts shots and Bradley catalogs and literature on the GTII CD, but no build information. Please remember that these are BRADLEY CD's, not Volkswagen repair manuals. There is a reasonable amount of VW information where it's needed, but the CD's will not take the place of a good VW manual for VW issues. Price is $35 each, shipping in the USA included. You can send a PayPal to XXXXX or send a check or money order to my address below. Just make sure to tell me which CD you need. If you need more detailed information about the CD, call my cell: xxx-xxx-xxxx. Typing is an all-day thing compared to a two-minute conversation.
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Post by pushnfords on Aug 4, 2010 17:03:53 GMT -5
Hi, Fords, Just curious: "Pushin" Fords as in 1) to promote them, 2) easy way to get one off a cliff, or 3) a good way to get them started? My first car was an '82 Crown Vic that I bought off of my parents. It ran decent until the electrode fell out of a spark plug and blew a hole in a piston. It smoked and used oil like crazy while I saved up money for a new engine. After that I bought a '71 Torino GT that had been sitting and barely used for years...broke down on me 7-8 times the first week I had it. That was when I started using this screen name and I've just kept it...I use it on every forum/board I'm on although a lot of them are not Ford related. I currently own a mix of brands...Honda, Pontiac, Ford, Chevy, etc. I've been having vehicle problems of my own and took a hiatus from the Bradley...I'll get back on it this weekend and start looking for parts again next week.
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