|
|
Post by big bob on Aug 31, 2011 9:37:57 GMT -5
hey guys, i've been here, but havent worked on the car much. when it got to fiberglassing, i kind of slowed to a halt. here's a pic showing progress on rear area. BUT real problem right now is engine. i cleaned the carb after sitting so long (thanks to JSPtown's help). engine starts but then dies after a bit. like its starving for fuel. i'm gonna change the fuel filter but not sure that's it. any help. i need you guys to save my bacon AGAIN. thanks, big bob  |
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Aug 31, 2011 9:42:22 GMT -5
here's another image of a partial gullwing alternative in glass. geez, i'm hijacking my own thread. just wanted to show some work i've done to help keep myself motivated...  |
|
|
|
Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 31, 2011 10:36:43 GMT -5
Bob,
Glad to see you working on it again. Rear window is looking good.
The last time I rebuilt an engine to put in my BAHA, I had the same problem. After trying a lot of things, finally gave in and bought a $140 Bazilian carb. Solved the problem.
Warmest Regards....
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Aug 31, 2011 11:30:26 GMT -5
interesting thought there.
i've got the weber 2 barrel progressive carb, hard to tune cuz mix screw is toward FRONT of car.
wouldnt i need new intake manifold if i switched to simpler carb? how hard is all that....thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 31, 2011 14:53:32 GMT -5
Yea, I had a stock intake on that engine (since I built it to sale). The Weber carb is better (higher performance and better fuel economy) if it is working right. If you are going the keep the engine, I would be hesitant to abandon it quickly. You could probably pick up the intake manifold from a salvage yard cheaper, but you can order them from JC Whitney, etc.
Regards..
|
|
Eric A
Full Member
It's an obsession not an investment!
Posts: 223
|
Post by Eric A on Aug 31, 2011 15:48:51 GMT -5
I have the same carb. That adjustment screw is a huge design fail!
Eric A
|
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Aug 31, 2011 18:18:33 GMT -5
The design is not failed...its the application! In its standard use (pinto, etc) its very easy to adjust it. Its when we use them on the VW's that it gets funky.
How's your float level and valve adjustment?
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Sept 1, 2011 8:23:46 GMT -5
uhhhh.....
float level in carb, uhh it works, its on a spring it goes up and down. that's all i know.
valves. have never touched them, but it used to run good, and i've put virtually no miles on it. you really think that could be the problem here?
just seems like carbeuration.... crap...
bopb
|
|
|
|
Post by kitcarguy on Sept 1, 2011 8:26:04 GMT -5
Bob I really like what you did with that back window. Looks great
|
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Sept 1, 2011 10:37:59 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by superdave008 on Sept 1, 2011 23:05:06 GMT -5
Hey Bob , just wanted to thank you for your site . I'm getting ready to cut out the tunnel for moving things back . I'm 6'1" and have to drop the pans and raise the body just to be comfortable .
Your site is a God send.
On the carb. I started mine up a year ago and the fuel in the tank went bad and ruined my electric fuel pump. My buddy came over last week end and we got it going by hooking up a remote fuel pump and pumping fuel directly into the carb. To get it running we just kept pouring fuel down the carb. after it warmed up it was ok. I let it run for about an hour and it worked out ok. This week we are cleaning the fuel tank and and installing a new pump. You know fun stuff.
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Sept 8, 2011 9:48:26 GMT -5
thanks dave,
that's the idea is that the site could help someone else. the old pay-it-forward thing i guess. the tunnel cut is pretty well documented and really makes things fit better for the car itself and for a taller driver.
for me, i think valves and timing are in order, replace the fuel filter, then go from there. trying to follow my motto of first get it running.....
although i had it running... oh well. best of luck...
big bob
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Dec 15, 2011 14:33:33 GMT -5
O.K.
check of the valves SO FAR is good. they're snug but can still get a feeler in there.
i start it. runs fine. 2 minutes later it dies. have to let it cool first.
wanting to get it running decent to eventually sell i guess.
any help would be appreciated.... thanks, big bob
|
|
|
|
Post by kartracer on Dec 15, 2011 15:40:15 GMT -5
might sound dumb, but is the choke valve opening while warming up. Stuck?
|
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Dec 15, 2011 15:55:23 GMT -5
Bad coil?
|
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Dec 15, 2011 16:18:07 GMT -5
Hi Bob,  Check for spark as soon as it dies.  If no spark, it's probably bad coil, bad condenser, bad ign switch, or poor electrical connection in the primary circuit.  If it still has spark, then it's either fuel related or mechanical ----- like leaky intake manifold boots or bolts.  Gary Hammond,   P.S. ----- Maybe you've got fiberglass dust between the points.  |
|
|
|
Post by horen2tas on Dec 15, 2011 18:05:48 GMT -5
Leaky intake manifold was my problem in the past, never noticed it but nuts were so loose that when i gave it gas the carb was lifting off the manifold, and eventually engine would cut out.
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Dec 19, 2011 11:34:17 GMT -5
wow, you guys gave me a lot to think about.
i adjusted valves, checked coil cold, there's gas in the fuel filter..
only now it wont start at all. crap. when i hit it with starter fluid it runs for a bit. so i guess that tells me carb and/or gas.
so simple but so frustrating. i did notice manifold boots are cracking. i'll replace them. could that explain running then dying cuz for a minute the thought of the fuel bowl emptying was sounding like a winner...
big bob
|
|
|
|
Post by leonardabell on Dec 19, 2011 12:31:45 GMT -5
Just for kicks, try taking out the filter and see it it helps. I know that when I tried to drive home from buying mine, I had to do that just to get it home. I got tired of the engine dying and waiting for the filter to let enough gas through to get on the road again just to konk out in a mile or so.
|
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Dec 19, 2011 12:58:38 GMT -5
Hi Bob, so simple but so frustrating. i did notice manifold boots are cracking. i'll replace them. could that explain running then dying cuz for a minute the thought of the fuel bowl emptying was sounding like a winner... big bob Yes! That can explain running for a minute and then dying. The automatic choke lets it start and run for a short while, but when it opens the cracked boots leak too much air for it to keep running. And like I posted earlier, check for the presence of spark at the plugs to determine/eliminate ignition as the culprit! A simple spark gap tester for small engines is very inexpensive, can be left in place while the engine is running, and can tell you a lot about what's going on or what's wrong. It's a great diagnostic tool for troubleshooting! ;D Gary Hammond, |
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Dec 19, 2011 14:15:05 GMT -5
good responses. thanks..
i did the old pull the coil center out and grounded it then cranked the engine. i got spark there. is that what you're talking about gary?
working on the manifold boots. thanks!
bob
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Dec 19, 2011 14:16:20 GMT -5
BTW leonard,
my see-through filter is only about 1/3 full. should it be completely full?
big bob
|
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Dec 19, 2011 16:44:03 GMT -5
Hi Bob, good responses. thanks.. i did the old pull the coil center out and grounded it then cranked the engine. i got spark there. is that what you're talking about gary? working on the manifold boots. thanks! bob That's one way to do it, but it's hard to hold the proper gap and crank the engine at the same time. It's better to use a spark tester with a wide gap. You can make one from an old spark plug by removing the ground electrode. Or you can buy one like this.  Or like this.  The regular spark tester can be attached to the coil wire or any plug wire and either grounded to the engine or a spark plug. If grounded to a spark plug the engine will still run on that cylinder while giving a visual, hands free check for spark!  If it passes the spark test, then it's fuel related or a mechanical problem. I strongly suspect the cracked intake boots are the main problem. Also check for any loose bolts in the intake system. Gary Hammond, |
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Dec 19, 2011 20:33:36 GMT -5
well first the good news,
i replaced the boots, made sure everything was tight. made sure it had gas. BAM! started right up. i was surprised with a little starting fluid and a couple of gas pedal pumps and it started....
and ran good for about 1-2 minutes. crap. right back to where i started.
gonna investigate the coil thing again. and then onto carbeuration i guess. thanks for the help.......
big bob
|
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Dec 19, 2011 21:35:42 GMT -5
Hi Bob, Hate to keep repeating myself, but check for spark as soon as it dies not after it's set awhile! If it's the coil or other ign component it won't have spark as soon as it dies. If it still has spark move on to the carb. You said earlier that you cleaned the Weber carb, but didn't check the float level. That carb has a neoprene tipped needle float valve with a wire clip to pull it open when the float drops. Did you get the wire clip installed when you reassembled the carb? Without the clip, the rubber tip swells (especially with alcohol blended fuel) and sticks in the seat until something jars it loose again. This can cause a problem similar to what you describe. And as Leonard suggested, change the fuel filter and check fuel pump pressure and flow. Old gas from setting too long can partially clog a fuel filter and also cause the fuel pump check valves to stick or leak. And I assume you drained the old gas, and aren't trying to run on it. The engine won't run well, if at all, on old gas that has all the volatiles already evaporated! Gary Hammond, |
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Dec 20, 2011 11:58:08 GMT -5
thanks guys, tonight i will check spark right after it dies as you and jeff suggested. but it seems like carb, its like once its warm, choke or something releases and it just dies quick. i'll let you know. REALLY appreciate the help  big bob |
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Dec 20, 2011 13:49:12 GMT -5
That can make me think vacuum leak as well. Take the air cleaner off and when it starts to dies partially cover the top of the carb. What you are trying to reduce is the airflow into the carb to compensate for the vacuum leak.
When the choke is closed it is limiting airflow so the vacuum leak isn't that bad. As soon as it opens you go way lean. If you can manipulate your hand to cover some, but not all, of the opening and it continues to run then you might have a big vacuum leak.
Those carbs are notorious for big leaks along the throttle shafts. A little un-lit propane around the shafts while listening for an rpm increase may help you diagnosis.
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Dec 20, 2011 20:18:54 GMT -5
i'm really on a mission here. this engine is not that complicated.
o.k.... so, i started, ran 1 minute then immediately died. gary, i checked and did have spark. so i restarted (normally it wont, this time it did) and wanted to die (the car, not me at least not yet).
jeff, i covered/nursed the carb top and it kept running! although not real good. so then i uncovered carb while I disagreeist kept it running. soon it wanted to die again and i covered carb to keep it going. rinse, repeat..
i really dont want to pull this carb again, because you got me scared about the float level wire clip thing. where should i go from here. cuz if i get it running good, i'm coming to yall's house..... thanks, big bob
|
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Dec 20, 2011 21:28:25 GMT -5
Hi Bob, OK, you've eliminated the ign system as a problem! ;D Sounds like a fuel delivery problem or vacuum leak. Could be a small air leak in the fuel line, low fuel pump pressure problem, float valve sticking closed, partially plugged fuel filter/fuel line, or manifold vacuum leak at/in the carb. The closed choke will partially overcome any of these potential problems by creating extra vacuum in the carburetor venturi and float bowl. Before you pull the carb, pull the fuel line off the carb and check the fuel pump pressure at the fuel inlet to the carb. If 3 psi or more, then pull the carb. And did you dump the old gas and put in fresh? Gary Hammond, |
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Dec 20, 2011 21:44:32 GMT -5
Propane torch, turn it on a little, DON"T LIGHT, and pass it near the throttle shaft (while you keep it running). If the idle smooths or picks up I bet leaking throttle shafts.
|
|
