rick
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Post by rick on Jun 11, 2014 11:58:07 GMT -5
Ok so my father in law gave me a76 bradley gt. Vw engine all that stuff. I'm pretty car savvy so where do I go from here with it. Part engine etc?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 11, 2014 14:27:11 GMT -5
Wherever your budget or experience can take you.
Of course the biggest challenge is to actually get it road worthy. So many have HUGE plans and they never see the light of day. And the project sadly gets passed onto the next eager soul.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jun 11, 2014 16:00:55 GMT -5
rick,
What I did was do a lot of research to see what everyone else has done to theirs and made a list of all of those that I wanted to do to mine. Next, I sorted the list in the logical order that they needed to be completed. For example, relocate the shifter back needs to be done before installing new floor carpet. You also need to decide if you plan to take the body off the frame. There are a lot of things that can be done easier with the body off, for example replacing all the brake lines or cleaning out the gas tank.
Like jspbtown said, you will need to consider all the things that need to be done to get it road worthy. For example: Brakes, tires, inspection requirements, engine work, etc. The engine is a whole nother consideration. I decided to stay with the VW 1600 engine. It runs good and I don't see a need to replace it.
If you post a bunch of pictures on this site, you will get all sorts of suggestions from the viewing audience. You have to be patient in getting a response because a bunch of us have jobs and we can't get back to this site for days, weeks or months. There are some "regulars" who visit the site daily and I have gotten some really good advice from them. [You guys know who you are....]
TIM
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rick
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Post by rick on Jun 11, 2014 19:14:43 GMT -5
My wife and I rebuilt an 86 Monte Carlo LS last car. I plan on pulling te current engine and full rebuild on that. It say for quite a few years. Plumbing and fitting brake lines is too easy. The tank is a good idea il have to price that. But I'm going to pull the body probably replace the lights with similar leds. Lose the gel coat and paint myself a nice candy on it. I need a new interior for it too. I have all the pieces it just need redone.
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rick
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Post by rick on Jun 12, 2014 13:52:35 GMT -5
Those tips on how to take the body off would be great. Plus where I could get a manual for it.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 12, 2014 14:48:48 GMT -5
Jeff Troy offers an invaluable CD for the kit car rookie.
For the body removal its pretty unique to the builder. However, some of the more common things to look for:
1. Series of bolts inside the car that go around the perimeter of the pan.
2. Steering coupler up front
3. Wire attached to the engine
4. Battery cables
5. There should be some front body supports attached to the front torsion tubes
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rick
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Post by rick on Jun 12, 2014 16:03:25 GMT -5
I've found all of those and haven't started taking anything apart but the interior and all the light and ext trim. I want the body clean when I pull it off. I might cut the floor pans out an weld new sheet metal. Anyone had problems specifically with that?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 12, 2014 18:48:26 GMT -5
Its done all the time.
If you are taller than 6 feet I suggest you drop the floors or raise the body.
If you go with flat floors I suggest you modify the rear section of the lip on the tunnel to gain more leg and head room.
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rick
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Post by rick on Jun 23, 2014 12:49:25 GMT -5
Ok so I'm pretty sure I need a 6 volt battery. My engine turns by the crank so it's not seized. I wanna up a battery on it to see if it cranks. Which on should I get?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 23, 2014 14:03:52 GMT -5
Why do you think you need a 6 volt battery? While some of the very early VWs came with a 6 volt system, most people who built these cars converted them....if they had to at all.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Jun 23, 2014 17:00:41 GMT -5
rick,
I would be surprised if it had a 6V battery. Does it have a generator or an alternator? You might want to look on the voltage regulator and ignition coil, too. Not to mention all the other electrical stuff, like headlights, etc. You might find that you have a 12V system. Post some pictures and we can help you determine what you are working with.
TIM
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 7:50:49 GMT -5
Ok so it's a 12v I have since had it hooked to a battery and turning over. I took the body off and have been stripping the floor and tearing down the engine. Not sure which actual engine I have. I have looked at the number lists and vin- part numbers but get two different answers. An I don't know how to add pictures.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 8, 2014 8:14:17 GMT -5
You need to load your pictures onto a hosting site like photobucket and then bring them over.
Do you have the number from the motor?
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 8:19:09 GMT -5
Ok some of these are part numbers but the vin panel riveted to the body says 119734820 then the is a panel on the side if the engine below the valve cover that says 35 111 101 102 lastly the is a number below the mount for the alt/gen says a German z word and then has the number d0621548. If anyone could tell me what that means.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 8, 2014 10:46:09 GMT -5
Thinking mid 1970 1200/34bhp DIN - 40HP SAE gross for the motor
119734820 suggests Feb/March 1969 for the pan
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 11:13:43 GMT -5
Hi Rick,  The 9 digit chassis # 119734820 is for a 1965 beetle, and the D series engine is the correct 1200cc 40HP engine for that year. The 1970 bettles were all 10 digit #'s. So it's got to be a 1965 model with 6 volt electrical system, king pin front end, and swing axle rear end. Not the best choice for the foundation of a Bradley GT. Gary Hammond,   |
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 8, 2014 11:34:13 GMT -5
Gary,
The Samba (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php) says 1965 is a 116 pan. Are they incorrect?
They also show the last motor done in 1965 as being D0 050 314.
Jeff
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 12:41:50 GMT -5
Well the carb says 12v on it and I hooked a battery up all the work and it turns over.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 13:07:58 GMT -5
Hi Jeff, Gary, The Samba (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php) says 1965 is a 116 pan. Are they incorrect? They also show the last motor done in 1965 as being D0 050 314. Jeff I don't know about Samba - I rarely go there.  I looked in my old Clymer 1961-1979 VW Beetle Shop Manual that I've found to usually be accurate. It lists chassis SN 115 000 001- and (thru ?) SN 145 000 001- as 1965 production, and only lists the letter D (without any numbers) as the engine production for that year (1965). And 1965 is the only year it lists the D series engine. 1966 started with the F series engine which was 1300cc and 50 HP. They also started the ball joint front end in 1966, and it was still a 6 volt electrical system and swing axle rear end in 1966 acording to my Clymer manual. My chassis is a 1967 model that came with ball joint front end, swing axle rear end, H series 1500 cc SP, 53 HP engine, and 12 volt electrical system. Of course I'm running a 1679 cc DP mostly aftermarket engine in it.  Gary Hammond, |
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 8, 2014 13:15:49 GMT -5
So.....rick....do you have a IRS or swingaxle rear end? How about up front? Ball joint or link pin?
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 13:35:06 GMT -5
Hi Rick, Well the carb says 12v on it and I hooked a battery up all the work and it turns over. Since the Bradly GT kit came equipped with all 12 volt components, I would assume most people would have converted from 6 volts to 12 volts if they used an early chassis. The original Bradley GT Build Manual that came with my car also lists SN 115-000-001 to 115-979-200 with 40 HP engine and 6 volt system for the 1965 model year. And it also lists SN 116-000-001 to 116-021-298 with 50 HP engine and ball joint front suspension for the 1966 model year. I thought it talked about converting from a 6 volt to 12 volt system, but it doesn't. They appearantly thought most people could figure that out on their own. As far as I know, the only real problem in converting from 6 volts to 12 volts is the extra clearance required in the 6 volt bell housing for the larger diameter flywheel/ring gear used on the later 12 volt equipped engines. Never been there, only read about it somewhere years ago.  Gary Hammond, |
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 13:41:53 GMT -5
Ok so I don't have ball joints and it sound pretty accurate
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 13:48:04 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 8, 2014 13:57:21 GMT -5
You do have ball joints. I think you also have a IRS so that would discount a 1965 pan unless they did a front framehead swap and a rear IRS swap.
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 15:21:50 GMT -5
Well then. How about you guys tell me what to get pictures of and I'll take them. And then you can tell me what I have before I buy parts that don't fit.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 15:23:25 GMT -5
Hi Guys, Well I'm a little redfaced!  The 119 000 001- SN is listed as a 1969. Somehow I overlooked it and assumed it to be between the two numbers listed for 1965. (I think one set of numbers was for the sedan and the other set was for the Karmin Ghia.) My bad!! The 1969 model year did indeed have the ball joint front end, IRS rear end, and 12 volt electrical system. 1969 was the first year for the IRS! But it still had the H series 1500 cc SP 53 HP engine. And now I remember that starting in 1965 they started using the # 11 followed by the last # of the year to designate the Beetle, and the #14 followed by the last # of the year to designate a Karmin Ghia. And in 1970 they added a #2 after the year to designate the second time thru the sequence. Hence the 10 digit numbers! So: 1965 115 000 001- Beetle 145 000 001- Karmin Ghia 1966 116 000 001- Btl 146 000 001- K G 1967 117 000 001- Btl 147 000 001- KG 1968 118 000 001- Btl 148 000 001- KG 1969 119 000 001- Btl 149 000 001- KG 1970 1102 000 001- Btl 1402 000 001- KG They did this clear thru at least 1979, which is where my book stops. Gary Hammond,  |
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 15:26:16 GMT -5
So my engine is a 1500cc 53 hp? I would like to start with the engine rebuild but would hate to buy the wrong parts. My wife will start sanding and body work while I do the engine.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 15:31:44 GMT -5
And here's a scan of a page near the end of my Bradley GT Assembly Manual.  Gary Hammond, |
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 15:50:44 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I'm thinking of closing I the back window and making it a coupe with a sort if ram-air snorkel into the carb. Who do I contact about info on engine wiring. I've never built a vw engine before.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 16:12:56 GMT -5
Hi Rick, So my engine is a 1500cc 53 hp? I would like to start with the engine rebuild but would hate to buy the wrong parts. My wife will start sanding and body work while I do the engine. That chassis would orignally have come with a series H, 53HP, 1500cc single port engine. But how do you know if it still has the original engine? If it's the original 1500 it can be upgraded to a 1600 single port (the 57 HP engine that came out in 1970)just by installing the larger (85.5 MM)cylinders and pistons. Or you can modify it with a lot of after market parts and/or a set of heads from the 63 HP 1600cc dual port engine that came out in 1971. My engine is a 1678cc (88MM bore x stock 69MM stroke)engine with dual port flycut heads (9 to 1 compression) , different camshaft , beefed up valve train, counter weighted crankshaft with 8 dowells, lightened flywheel, heavy duty flywheel nut, heavy duty clutch, heavy duty throw-out arm and bushings, dry sump oiling, external oil cooler, electronic fuel injection, home made exhaust, 097 Bosch distributor, MSD 6 ignition triggered by a comp-u-fire module, spiro-pro ignition wires, and cold NGK plugs gapped at .060". It pulls real strong in the 3000 - 5000 RPM range and will pull all the way to 6000 RPM. This was all installed in a new replacement crank case with stud savers and chrome-moly barrel bolts. Never had it on a dyno, but estimate it to reliably put out 100+ HP. Gary Hammond, |
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I looked in my old Clymer 1961-1979 VW Beetle Shop Manual that I've found to usually be accurate. It lists chassis SN 115 000 001- and (thru ?) SN 145 000 001- as 1965 production, and only lists the letter D (without any numbers) as the engine production for that year (1965). And 1965 is the only year it lists the D series engine. 
