rick
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Posts: 23 
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 17:09:30 GMT -5
Hey Gary
Here is a video of the engine turning over. I don't know if it will help identify it.
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rick
New Member
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Post by rick on Jul 8, 2014 17:09:40 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 8, 2014 18:31:24 GMT -5
Your engine is not a "H" engine...it is a "D" engine. At least thats what it started life as. It could be anything now. I tried looking at the video at home but could not. Probably my antiquated computer. I will give it a shot in the morning.
Usually the year of the motor is relatively unimportant for basic things. They are usually referred to as single port or dual port. Some of the real early ones were very unique an are very different. When I see your video I should be able to tell what you have (at least a single or dual port). The total size can be changed within the block just as you would say bore and/or stroke a SBC. many parts are universal for many diffeent years.
For wiring alot of people have used Rebel Wire. Made in the USA. Good customer service and well made. Oh yeah...and reasonably priced. Let me know what your plans are for the car. You can get away with 8 circuits. 12 for some extras. 21 is a waste of money.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 19:24:13 GMT -5
Hi Rick,  Well it has a dual port intake manifold, so it has to have dual port heads. These came standard on the 1971 1600cc engine and have been retrofitted to a lot of earlier engines. The 1969 was a 1500cc with single port heads, and the 1970 was a 1600cc with single port heads. I would guess either the heads and intake manifold have been replaced on your original 1500 engine or the engine has been updated to or replaced by a later 1600 dual port engine. Can't tell from the video if it has a vacuum advance on the back of the distributor or not. Kind of looks like it to me, but it also looks like a centrifugal advance distributor rather than an all vacuum distributor. Is it a combined vacuum and centrifugal (dual) advance unit? If it is, it may have been changed as my book indicates the 1969 and 1970 engines had an all vacuum advance with the manual transmission, and all had the dual advance with the auto-stick transmission. And from 1971 on, they all had the dual advance distributor regardless of which transmission was installed. Which carburetor do you have? The Solex 30 PICT-2 was used in 1968 and 1969. The Solex 30 PICT-3 was used in 1970. And the Solex 34 PICT-3 and Solex 34 PICT-4 were used from 1971 thru 1974. The 30 PICT models have a 30 MM diameter venturi and the 34 PICT models have a 34 MM diameter venturi. The carburetors have differing internal vacuum porting depending on which distributor they were designed to be used with. And a lot of engine builders have substituted an all centrifugal advance dristributor used in the type 2 Bus engines when going to a multi carb setup. If these are used on an otherwise stock engine with a standard Solex single carb, the carb has to be modified to idle and accelerate properly. A dual advance dizzy mated to the correct corresponding carb is the best way to go here. So.....look for the distributor model # and the carburetor model #. The carb # is cast into the carb body and the dizzy # is on an attached ID tag. And double check the engine serial #. It is usually stamped (not cast) into the right hand crank case half just below the generator stand. Gary Hammond,   |
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 19:30:33 GMT -5
Hi Jeff, Your engine is not a "H" engine...it is a "D" engine. At least thats what it started life as. It could be anything now. I tried looking at the video at home but could not. Probably my antiquated computer. I will give it a shot in the morning. Usually the year of the motor is relatively unimportant for basic things. They are usually referred to as single port or dual port. Some of the real early ones were very unique an are very different. When I see your video I should be able to tell what you have (at least a single or dual port). The total size can be changed within the block just as you would say bore and/or stroke a SBC. many parts are universal for many diffeent years. For wiring alot of people have used Rebel Wire. Made in the USA. Good customer service and well made. Oh yeah...and reasonably priced. Let me know what your plans are for the car. You can get away with 8 circuits. 12 for some extras. 21 is a waste of money. I don't think it's a D engine. I think Rick may have looked at a casting mark instead of the actual serial # or possibly misread the letter preceeding the numbers. I think it has to be either a modified H or B series, or else replaced by an AE series engine. Identifying the carb and dizzy should help ID the engine as well. Gary Hammond, |
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 8, 2014 20:12:48 GMT -5
Another way to ID the crankcase is whether or not it has two oil pressure relief valves or only one. Starting in 1970 with the B series engine, a second relief valve was added to the front (flywheel) end of the engine just behind the flywheel in the bottom of the left hand crankcase half. Gary Hammond, |
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 8, 2014 22:04:30 GMT -5
Ok Rick..post a pic of the number right under the alt/gen stand.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 9, 2014 8:20:50 GMT -5
Well I saw the video today. Dual port heads. Looks like a 009 mechanical distributer (it will have "009" stamped into the metal body) which was a common replacement back in the day. Stock pict carb. You have a generator instead of an alternator so that brings the date back some.
So I would check the serial number on the block again to see what it was born at. Right now there really isn't a way to know what size it is without tearing it down.
What kind of things are you planning on getting for it?
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rick
New Member
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Post by rick on Jul 9, 2014 8:47:55 GMT -5
Well my plan was to tear the whole engine down and buy and engine rebuild kit. Depending in what engine I have will tell me what else I want to do. I want a little more power but don't want to go crazy with costum mods. It's a manual trans. And I don't know about stroking these engines if that's possible. By the way you guys have been a huge help. I'm really glad I joined here.
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 9, 2014 9:14:40 GMT -5
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 9, 2014 9:15:50 GMT -5
Hopefully these pictures help.
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rick
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Posts: 23
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Post by rick on Jul 9, 2014 9:17:42 GMT -5
And the carb is a 34 pict 3
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 9, 2014 10:37:41 GMT -5
Well the block is going to dictate what type of motor you can build. Some are better suited for larger cc than others. If you are going to go with a complete tear down than you need to do some measuring. Given that you have dual port heads I am going to suggest that you have a 1600cc. I might be wrong though so the only way to verify is to remove a head and measure the cylinders. You can buy slip in pistons/cylinders that will bump it up to 1641cc (or so) but those have a tendency to warp. Anything bigger and you need the bores opened up as well as the heads. Plus if you go beyond the 1600cc you will likely need to do a carb upgrade (duals). Here is a good source for complete engine kits: scatvw.com/master/engine_kits/Add in costs for an exhaust, carbs, ignition, machining, misc (oil cooler, alt/gen, etc). You will also need to locate a machine shop to go over the case and check for excessive endplay, lifter bore wear, crank shaft alignment, etc etc |
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 9, 2014 10:44:54 GMT -5
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rick
New Member
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Post by rick on Jul 9, 2014 11:12:41 GMT -5
So my engine is a Frankenstein.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 9, 2014 11:14:40 GMT -5
Hi Guys, Looking at the latest photos of the SN what looks like a "D" may actually be a "B" which is the 1970 1600 single port crankcase. The heads, intake manifold, and carb, would be from a 1971 or later AE series engine. And the dizzy is all centrifugal advance, probably a 009 from the type 2 Bus. This dizzy dosen't work properly combined with a 34 PICT-3 carb unless some modifications are made to the carb. This engine has been updated (modified) to be like the AE series engine - all except for the dizzy, which is the wrong one to use in this application. Gary Hammond, |
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 9, 2014 11:18:30 GMT -5
Ok thanks for the information but what is a dizzy ? And I pulled the valve covers probably one of the cleanliness engines inside so far that I've seen.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 9, 2014 11:22:09 GMT -5
Most VW engines are Frankensteins...thats their strength and I guess a weakness. It might be intimidating to a novice but its not as complicated as it seems. Almost any case can be built to a multitude of sizes. Some cases are better than others based on the type of material and how it was originally designed. I know many H cases were made of an inferior alloy that made them prone to stud failure. Others cases had a tendency to crack in a certain spot.
In the pic it looks like a D to me. They made dual port D engines. So it could be a stock D motor or someone could have used the case to build a 1600cc motor. So you need to remove a head and measure your bore.
I don't know about the 009 coming from a Bus. They are the most common replacement aftermarket distributors sold for a VW. Theu don't work well with just about anything but they are cheap and available so people use them. Depending on the carbs a nice SVDA distributor will give you the best combo of power and mileage.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 9, 2014 11:29:27 GMT -5
Hi Rick, So my engine is a Frankenstein. Yeah! Most engines this age have been changed, modified, updated to be "Frankensteins". LOL  The only problem I see with this one is using the wrong dizzy. When you tear completely down, be sure to carefully check the center main bearing saddle for wear. The stock unweighted crankshaft tends to pound out the center main bearing saddle, requiring the crankcase to need align boring and oversized OD replacement main bearings. Gary Hammond, |
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 9, 2014 11:32:15 GMT -5
Ok thanks for the information but what is a dizzy ? And I pulled the valve covers probably one of the cleanliness engines inside so far that I've seen. Slang term for distributor. Gary Hammond, |
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rick
New Member
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Post by rick on Jul 9, 2014 11:37:22 GMT -5
So what ill do is tear this thing down to the block. It's filthy and needs washed anyway.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 9, 2014 11:41:09 GMT -5
Hi Jeff, ................ They made dual port D engines. So it could be a stock D motor or someone could have used the case to build a 1600cc motor. So you need to remove a head and measure your bore. I don't know about the 009 coming from a Bus. They are the most common replacement aftermarket distributors sold for a VW. Theu don't work well with just about anything but they are cheap and available so people use them. Depending on the carbs a nice SVDA distributor will give you the best combo of power and mileage. I didn't know they ever made the D series engines with dual port heads. That's a new one on me. And of course except for the modified engine I built up and doing some reading, I really don't have much knowledge of stock VW's. And I agree from what I've read that the SVDA dizzy is the best way to go with the 34 PICT-3 carb. Gary Hammond, |
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rick
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Post by rick on Jul 10, 2014 10:59:01 GMT -5
Ok so I started taking the engine apart. Do I crack the crank case in half to pull the crank? I wanna take it to the shop and have it cleaned and machined. I found a set of 94mm pistons. Any word on those?
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 10, 2014 16:03:47 GMT -5
Yes...the case needs to be split to get the crank (and anything else) out. A long thread for some good reading: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=590066&highlight=94mmI would post your question there. Lots more experts. The case might not be right, the heads might not be right. Lots of factors that I can't even come close to understanding. |
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Post by savedbygrace on Jul 10, 2014 20:36:58 GMT -5
According to my VW service manuals code "D" is shown to be a type 1 or 2 1200 single port from 1965. Your engine has the non doghouse style oil cooler. All factory type 1 duel port engines had the doghouse oil cooler. Hope this helps.
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Post by superdave008 on Jul 31, 2014 21:22:56 GMT -5
Google vw back slash air tech for a wealth of aricles on the vw about 50 articles in all. Everything. From engines to supension. Cost effective. And. Well researched. Put. It together with the bradley. Guys. Info. Youcsnt get any better then that
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Oct 5, 2014 21:40:53 GMT -5
The way VW engines drop and swap pistons, and cylinders and, to a lesser extent crankshafts, you will have NO IDEA what is in it until you take it apart and check both cylinder bore and stroke. Then you will know what is in the engine and what to order for it.
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The only problem I see with this one is using the wrong dizzy.
